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Flap actuator rod end came unscrewed - how should it be connected?

nickw9815

Well Known Member
On my landing roll I was raising flaps and heard a loud clunk. I investigated, and saw that the rod end for the flap actuator came unscrewed. Does someone have a photo of how this should be assembled with safety wire?

IMG_7212.jpeg
 
In the last year or so of inspecting RV's I've found a couple of them without this SB completed. Be sure to use the heavier .040 lock wire. I found one airplane with the lockwire added, but it was the thinner .032 wire and it had snapped apart.
 
In the last year or so of inspecting RV's I've found a couple of them without this SB completed. Be sure to use the heavier .040 lock wire. I found one airplane with the lockwire added, but it was the thinner .032 wire and it had snapped apart.
Thanks - I could not find where it specified the thickness!
 
The failure mode is that the nut comes loose and the shaft unscrews from the rod end bearing. This could happen even with the safety wire on the nut, and the shaft could come loose. That said, I can't see a reason to not use that nut with the safety wire hole - do you recall what size you ordered?
 
I used one of these drilled jam nuts. Much easier than the method in the SB. The fellow doing my final inspection (retired airline mechanic and RV builder) really liked it and signed off the inspection so thats good enough for me haha. I know this isnt as per the SB so its up to you if you're comphortable with it or not.


It seems to me the rotation of the shaft would tend to put a loosening force on the lock wired nut. You should still have the drilled hole in the shaft to lock wire either to the nut or to the bolt as per the SB.
 
I drilled a 1/16" hole through the shaft and rod end and pressed in a roll pin.
Didn't like the Vans method.
Stewart Willoughby, 6
 
I do like the 1/16" roll pin idea. It prevents rotation and unthreading as well as preventing movement in the longitudinal axis - as in thread stripping. I can see how the SB wire could be sheared.
 
To my knowledge there have been no failures when following the SB. Ya, it’s not very elegant.
However, it’s easy to do and inspect and it’s been proven over time. Nothing to re-engineer or think about.
 
It takes very little force to prevent the linear actuator from rotating. I have no concern over the safety wire not being strong enough to hold it. Using a cross pin would also work, but you run the risk the roll pin will fall out.
 
I used one of these drilled jam nuts. Much easier than the method in the SB. The fellow doing my final inspection (retired airline mechanic and RV builder) really liked it and signed off the inspection so thats good enough for me haha. I know this isnt as per the SB so its up to you if you're comphortable with it or not.


@rv6builder , What size nut did you order for this?
 
As others have already mentioned, safety wiring just the jam nut does not attain the same level of security as the SB method does.
If builders choose to do something different, it is important that they first develop an understanding of what is being accomplished with the recommended process so they can be sure of getting an equivalent result.
 
As others have already mentioned, safety wiring just the jam nut does not attain the same level of security as the SB method does.
If builders choose to do something different, it is important that they first develop an understanding of what is being accomplished with the recommended process so they can be sure of getting an equivalent result.

Thank-you Scott, I will delete my post and properly complete the service bulletin. My plane is at home for the winter for paint and updates so good timing.
 
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