VansAirForce.net is a small, honor system webezine trying its best to be a laid back virtual watering hole for builders and pilots of Van's RV kitplanes. Here we roll civil, don't talk politics, don't employ attention engineers or record keystrokes. Hopefully after visiting occasionally, you leave VAF a little happier and motivated than you arrived. Brought to you by the Reeves family.
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5/20/2022. Issue #5,574.
Wishing you and yours a happy, safe and RV-filled weekend.
Need an ATP-rated G-550/450 or EMB-505 SIC? ...I'm here.
-4 says hey. Love that cowl!
Here is our sneak preview of our "retro kit." Really all you will need for all of the single-digit RVs are the two brackets, an AN5-13 bolt, nut, and cotter key.
We'll be offering these kits shortly. Here we're showing an RV-6 flap channel that we recently removed from the airplane with the legacy flap motor installed. We'll be taking this apart to make a video that will show the steps for converting to the new flap actuator. Next to it is a new RV-9 flap channel that we're currently building. The new flap actuator is currently being installed in the channel. They are both very similar and hopefully it's obvious that it's a pretty simple conversion in either case.
I am still a student pilot. I have about 40 hours solo and 15 or so instruction in my 9A. I am not a fan of bouncing around when I fly but here in Michigan calm days are rare.
I have limited my flying to less than 10 mph on the ground or a 5-7 knot cross wind. As it heats up here, the different types of land - trees, lakes, farm land, all cause thermals and some pretty bumpy rides.
It still freaks me out a bit when it starts getting bumpy. I have been trying to fly through it thinking I will get used to it. I am better but I do cut some of my flights short because I am not enjoying it.
Any suggestions on how to become more comfortable in the bumps or flying technique that will help?
Hi team 14!
Please check me. I'm getting ready to countersink the spar for the center screw holes in the fuel tank and access panel nutplates. I created a test sample to try and get the depth of this countersink right using some rather thick bar stock and a K1000-06 nutplate.
I'm aware of the .007 rule for countersinking below a skin dimple for rivets but less clear about the approach for this special case. The instructions offer that for the #6 nutplate the max outer diameter of the dimple should be 7.8mm and the max inner should be 4mm.
On my test sample I snuck up on about 7.5mm OD and test fit a piece of scrap skin with a #6 dimple applied to it. The result is attached. I think the skin to spar gap is something like .008 on average all around (I can't quite get a .010 feeler gauge into the gap). Pls ignore the oversqueezed rivets, this bar stock is thicker than the real spar.
What do you all think. Am I on the right track here?
THE SPAR LIFE YOU SAVE MIGHT BE MINE
Replacing fuel senders in my rv7a but since I don't have a clue what fuel leaks with these sensors looks like, I would like some help to figure out where the fuel was coming from. I didn't use pro seal, just the rubber gasket the sensors came with(Stuwart Warner). The inside of the sender is clean so the only thing I can think of is that the fuel seeps through the threads on the screws. I have pictures but need help posting. Sorry that I am not technically literate.
Left Flap Process ...Jslow2
I have the heated but non-regulated version of garmin's pitot heater and would like to have a CAS "pitot heat on" message.
The original plan was to run a wire off the downstream side of the switch, through a fuseable link and into a discreet input on the GAD27.
Some sort of wire protection is highly desirable if I go this route, because the other wire coming off that terminal is the wire to the heater that's running through a honking big 20 amp breaker.
Unfortunately, I don't think I can get bigger that a 22 wire into the D-sub pin in the GAD27 connector, which would require a ridiculously small 26awg wire to make a fuse link. I don't have any wire that small, and don't know that I could crimp it successfully even if I did.
I considered an inline fuse, but space is extremely limited behind the switch panel, with only about an inch back there, so I can't have anything very bulky.
Is the answer here to make the fuse link 24awg into a 20 awg wire that has some strands cut out to get it to fit in the pin? Or is there a better solution? What did you guys do?
Sportsman II Seats for RV-14...Classic Aero announcement
We have just introduced a new style of seats for the RV-14. It's the Sportsman II (as oposed to our Aviator style of seats). Click the links or images for more details.
Events in the calendar w/in 60 days of happening.
05-21-2022: Houston area RV lunch
05-28-2022: GUNS Garin Memorial Foundation Fly-In
06-18-2022: Boone Iowa RV Day
06-25-2022: Mid-Atlantic Gathering of RV's
NEED THE OCCASIONAL
G450/G550 or EMB-505
My name is Doug Reeves and I have 2,600+ hours TT, including a PIC type rating in the G-V (550/450), Embraer Phenom 300 and an SIC endorsement in the Challenger 605. I live in Dallas, TX and work part time in seat support at CAE in their three Phenom Level D simulators.
I'm interested in contract SIC work.
Contact / Pilot resume: DeltaRomeo.com.
Ratings and experience:
AIRLINE TRANSPORT PILOT.
COMMERCIAL PILOT: AIRPLANE SINGLE & MULTIENGINE LAND; INSTRUMENT AIRPLANE.
All checkrides, private through ATP, passed on the first attempt.
PIC typed in 550 w/diffs to 450.
Typed: Feb 2022
Embraer Phenom 300
Last recurrent: May 2022
G450/550 and Phenom 300
Level D Simulators
CAE Right Seat Program
(750+ hrs w/motion on
during 290+ sims)
Cessna Grand Caravan EX
(few dozen trips)
And some others...