HighFlying
Member
I am a first-time builder of an RV-10 but thought this thread would go better here as the issue is similar across most RV builds regarding wing wiring and conduit. I have found and read lots of posts on the topic as well. However, I want to get some considered thoughts about the following options and potential pitfalls.
I plan to use ZipTips and I have the wire requirements for them. I plan to use a heated/regulated Garmin Pitot tube and magnetometer in the left wing. So I am thinking I need two physically diverse paths for the magnetometer (GMU 22 probably) and the pitot/ZipTip wiring? In the right wing, I plan to install aileron trim, Garmin GSA28 roll servo, ZipTip lighting, and archer antenna, again two diverse paths to isolate the antenna coax from the GSA28, ZipTip, and trim wiring.
Should the wiring be long enough to make it to the panel or attach a connector at the wing root? I am sure there is a whole school of thought on this topic.
1. Standard VAN's 3/4" corrugated conduit, seems to be the most popular approach, either through drilled holes or through the lightening holes with some sort of bracket. However, I think (not sure) I would need another path for antenna coax to isolate noise.
2. Amazon split wiring corrugated conduit, same as above but is split for easier cable management. Is there a reason why this isn't acceptable? I have not seen any posts of builders using this material.
3. Braided sleeve or wire loom, seems like a reasonable option. Easy to manage and allow reasonable access for future wire additions. That could be run through the drilled rib holes or attached with brackets to the lightening holes. Thoughts on why that is a bad idea?
4. Bilge pump hose (PVC), I have seen 3/4", 1", and 1 1/2" options there and the hose is thin wall, lightweight, similar to the corrugated conduit.
5. Fluorescent bulb guard plastic tubes. Extremely thin and lightweight, available in 8' lengths, about 1 1/2" diameter, would need to bracket them through the lightening holes, but seems like a reasonable option.
6. PEX tubing, I have seen several posts on the use of PEX, but it seems thick and heavy to perform the function of conduit.
Also, I was thinking about running the pitot and AOA tubes through a braided sleeve and then through the J-channel holes. Thinking the sleeve would protect the tubing from any aluminum rib contact. Any thoughts as to why that is a bad idea?
Again considered response would be greatly appreciated.
I plan to use ZipTips and I have the wire requirements for them. I plan to use a heated/regulated Garmin Pitot tube and magnetometer in the left wing. So I am thinking I need two physically diverse paths for the magnetometer (GMU 22 probably) and the pitot/ZipTip wiring? In the right wing, I plan to install aileron trim, Garmin GSA28 roll servo, ZipTip lighting, and archer antenna, again two diverse paths to isolate the antenna coax from the GSA28, ZipTip, and trim wiring.
Should the wiring be long enough to make it to the panel or attach a connector at the wing root? I am sure there is a whole school of thought on this topic.
1. Standard VAN's 3/4" corrugated conduit, seems to be the most popular approach, either through drilled holes or through the lightening holes with some sort of bracket. However, I think (not sure) I would need another path for antenna coax to isolate noise.
2. Amazon split wiring corrugated conduit, same as above but is split for easier cable management. Is there a reason why this isn't acceptable? I have not seen any posts of builders using this material.
3. Braided sleeve or wire loom, seems like a reasonable option. Easy to manage and allow reasonable access for future wire additions. That could be run through the drilled rib holes or attached with brackets to the lightening holes. Thoughts on why that is a bad idea?
4. Bilge pump hose (PVC), I have seen 3/4", 1", and 1 1/2" options there and the hose is thin wall, lightweight, similar to the corrugated conduit.
5. Fluorescent bulb guard plastic tubes. Extremely thin and lightweight, available in 8' lengths, about 1 1/2" diameter, would need to bracket them through the lightening holes, but seems like a reasonable option.
6. PEX tubing, I have seen several posts on the use of PEX, but it seems thick and heavy to perform the function of conduit.
Also, I was thinking about running the pitot and AOA tubes through a braided sleeve and then through the J-channel holes. Thinking the sleeve would protect the tubing from any aluminum rib contact. Any thoughts as to why that is a bad idea?
Again considered response would be greatly appreciated.