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Vibratory/Tumbling deburring

naivator

I'm New Here
I just spent a solid hour deburring every tiny part of one stabilizer rib,. While I appreciate the meditative work, I could not help but thinking, could parts like that not be deburred in a vibrating container with abrasive material? Like so. (0:17s - 0:40s)

I cannot be the first one thinking about this but the forum search did not yield...being the newbie that I am I am really wondering why this is not a thing?

If I want to prime the part anyway, it will be nice if it comes out with a 'sanded' surface. Also, if the material is small enough it could even help to deburr these hard to reach #40 holes inside of the flanges.

What am I missing?
 
If you spent an hour on one rib, you are really going way overboard. A rib should only take a few minutes. I usually hit the edges with a deburring tool to get rid of the sharp punched edge, do the same around any holes really quick, then take a quick pass over the edges with a worn out piece of sand paper to just rub out any remaining sharp edges. That's if the part is too awkward to run over the scotch brite wheel on the grinder, which makes the process even faster. The point is to debur. Are you working on getting rid of burs? It sounds like you're probably polishing the life out of every edge.
 
If you spent an hour on one rib, you are really going way overboard. A rib should only take a few minutes. I usually hit the edges with a deburring tool to get rid of the sharp punched edge, do the same around any holes really quick, then take a quick pass over the edges with a worn out piece of sand paper to just rub out any remaining sharp edges. That's if the part is too awkward to run over the scotch brite wheel on the grinder, which makes the process even faster. The point is to debur. Are you working on getting rid of burs? It sounds like you're probably polishing the life out of every edge.
I am going over it with a file and then with scotchbrite on the dremel tool. But the #40 holes are hard to reach and the relief holes of the flanges too. But good to have some sort of idea how long it should take a pro.
 
I am going over it with a file and then with scotchbrite on the dremel tool. But the #40 holes are hard to reach and the relief holes of the flanges too. But good to have some sort of idea how long it should take a pro.
I'm far from pro :ROFLMAO:, but you'll get the hang of it after a while. Just for reference, these are what I tend to use:

Deburr handle with blades - great for lightening holes and edges
Hex tool - get a low torque (cheap) cordless screwdriver. One time around a hole with this does it. You can also get the In/Out single pass tools for holes, which are pretty slick
Edge deburring blade - great for long skin edges, knocks the square edge off, then a light hit with sandpaper smooths it out

If you don't have one, I'd highly recommend considering getting a bench grinder. A large Scotch Brite wheel on a bench grinder is well worth it. They're pricey wheels, but one wheel has lasted me an entire build and could probably get me through a second plane.

I honestly don't use a file a tone for deburring. I use it, but just very little compared to other options.
 
If it took you an hour, you're doing something wrong. Simplest solution is this or a similar tool for holes:


Sand the flange edges just enough that a fingernail won't catch.

Isn't this in the Van's instruction manual?
 
Naivator,

I feel your pain, I too take my time deburring. The ribs have what I call "Grandma's Teeth" that really take some time to do properly in my opinion. For those areas I used strips of 3M flexible sandpaper. I agree that some portions of the aircraft require work that appear to be thankless but have to be done. It can be quite disappointing to work all evening and end up with just a pile of parts that look worse to the inexperienced onlooker than they did when you started.

I don't have an and answer to your question, but your frustration is understood.

Fred
 
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