DanH

Archie167
After some more advice on the next stage of my project. Have an A1B6 that’s been bulk stripped for IRAN and I need to convert to 12V set up. I will order a Hartzell constant speed prop (C2YR-1BFP/F7497-2 ,72 in. dia) from Vans but the ignition set up may influence that - not sure? So my queries:
1. Alternator. I have a PP/Hartzell AL12-E60/B that came with the FF kit but I believe having read another post this may not be the best one to use which is frustrating becomes it becomes a large and expensive paper weight. A friend of mine also had one that failed inflight. His suggestion is a B&C with external voltage regulator. Thoughts?
2. Starter Motor? Any recommendations appreciated.
3. Ignition system. Existing magentos will need to be switched out I assume being currently a 24V system. Interested in electronic ignition but there’s pro and cons and I’d prefer not to run a second battery as backup. Interested to learn some opinions or experiences with this.
4, anything else I haven’t considered?
Update: RV-6A Very Slow Build, Western Australia
I'm continuing on with the remaining "1% work" final assembly and have so far fitted the wing fuel tanks and connected their lines, as well as the ailerons, the Flyleds wig-wag landing lights and the wing tips. The control columns and main pushrods have been installed and the elevators are mounted on the horizontal stabilizer.

RE: Slider canopy stop / latch …alpinelakespilot2000
Agree, great solution. Even found a pre-threaded 2” aluminum binding post in the hardware drawers at both my local Ace and TrueValue stores. Ended up being a 30 minute project. Thanks for the idea!

RE: Rudder bottom fairing interference with VS bolts …bjdecker
Concur with @D-Dubya, bolts are too long.
Attached from the -7A, but you get the idea. The 6A tail tie down must be different. For the -7A, Van's created a new part (F-712E) that sits on the forward side, catches 4 bolts, all AN3-6A's, etc..etc...

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6A Leg Reinforcement
This is a nose leg from a 6A, off the airplane for a SB 07-11-08 fork upgrade. The original builder glassed on what appears to be a hardwood stiffener. From the color, it appears to be polyester resin and glass, which makes sense given the vintage. It wasn't strong enough to stand up...
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Archie167
After some more advice on the next stage of my project. Have an A1B6 that’s been bulk stripped for IRAN and I need to convert to 12V set up. I will order a Hartzell constant speed prop (C2YR-1BFP/F7497-2 ,72 in. dia) from Vans but the ignition set up may influence that - not sure? So my queries:
1. Alternator. I have a PP/Hartzell AL12-E60/B that came with the FF kit but I believe having read another post this may not be the best one to use which is frustrating becomes it becomes a large and expensive paper weight. A friend of mine also had one that failed inflight. His suggestion is a B&C with external voltage regulator. Thoughts?
2. Starter Motor? Any recommendations appreciated.
3. Ignition system. Existing magentos will need to be switched out I assume being currently a 24V system. Interested in electronic ignition but there’s pro and cons and I’d prefer not to run a second battery as backup. Interested to learn some opinions or experiences with this.
4, anything else I haven’t considered?
A1B6 24V to 12V
Hi all, After some more advice on the next stage of my project. Have an A1B6 that’s been bulk stripped for IRAN and I need to convert to 12V set up. I will order a Hartzell constant speed prop (C2YR-1BFP/F7497-2 ,72 in. dia) from Vans but the ignition set up may influence that - not sure? So my...
vansairforce.net
Update: RV-6A Very Slow Build, Western Australia
I'm continuing on with the remaining "1% work" final assembly and have so far fitted the wing fuel tanks and connected their lines, as well as the ailerons, the Flyleds wig-wag landing lights and the wing tips. The control columns and main pushrods have been installed and the elevators are mounted on the horizontal stabilizer.
RV-6A Very Slow Build, Western Australia
Nice grin Paul :) The more so enduring the frustration… nice seeing you forging ahead.
vansairforce.net

RE: Slider canopy stop / latch …alpinelakespilot2000
Agree, great solution. Even found a pre-threaded 2” aluminum binding post in the hardware drawers at both my local Ace and TrueValue stores. Ended up being a 30 minute project. Thanks for the idea!
Slider canopy stop / latch
I see flyboys do one for the 8 which looks a nice solution but doesn't work on side by side RVs Any neat ideas on a latch/ stop that allows you to have the canopy open a few inches for taxying ? RV 9 slider.
vansairforce.net

RE: Rudder bottom fairing interference with VS bolts …bjdecker
Concur with @D-Dubya, bolts are too long.
Attached from the -7A, but you get the idea. The 6A tail tie down must be different. For the -7A, Van's created a new part (F-712E) that sits on the forward side, catches 4 bolts, all AN3-6A's, etc..etc...
Rudder bottom fairing interference with VS bolts
I'm doing the final installation of the rudder on my -6A and have encountered interference between the rudder bottom fiberglass fairing and the lower AN4 bolts that attach the vertical stabilizer. The bolts are of the correct length and installed per plans with the heads facing forward. The...
vansairforce.net

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Please consider donating yearly to help keep this American 1-person pirate ship afloat:
Older issues of the ‘VAF News’ can be found at:
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Pushed out every now and then.
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THE VAF LIST (a list of RV-related lists)
THE VAF LIST (a list of RV-related lists)
The VAF List ...a list of RV-related lists. RV-related things you might want to browse over (a closed post that is sticky and maintained by dr). Link to this in 'Links' in the menu. v/r,dr Small businesses that help bring you this list of RV-related lists: 360 Avionics www.360Avionics.com Ace...
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