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The VAF News 3.28.2024 …Van’s Business Update

VAF POSTS & RV NEWS THAT CAUGHT MY EYE.....dr:
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Van's Aircraft Business Update - March 27th (video)
“An update on operations at Van's Aircraft for late March 2024. Progress in the restructuring is going well, and shipments are going strong for kits, replacement parts, and other orders. We're also working now on publishing lead times for new kit orders, as well as scheduling engine manufacturing slots with Lycoming. In the video, we also address going to Oshkosh, some positions we are hiring here, the status of the RV-15 project, and more. Most importantly, thank you to all of our dedicated and amazing customers. It's been a tough time the past several months, and we're working hard to get kits, parts, engines, props, and more to you. Thank you!”
https://vansairforce.net/threads/vans-aircraft-business-update-march-27th-video.225671/


From Last Weekend’s ‘What did you do….’ Thread.
Screenshot 2024-03-27 at 10.13.29 AM.png


Canopy Crack
While making room in hte shop, the canopy fell on it edge resulting in the attached damage. With the exception of the crack, all of it is aft of the roll bar.
1. Can this be repaired? I doubt it can.
Any advice would be appreciated
Screenshot 2024-03-27 at 10.11.55 AM.pngScreenshot 2024-03-27 at 10.12.04 AM.png


7 Build Question
I ran into an issue while drilling the F-794B empenage fairing on the horizontal stabilo top skin.
I used the screw positions as indicated on DWG3 - one of my earliest plans - and drilled the #6 screw holes at the locations indicated in the "plan view".
On the rear side I anticipated using a one leg nutplate as a K1000-6 would fall outside the rib/skin.
When drilling the front #6 hole nutplate ears, I saw that the rear leg hole is on the edge of the HS404 nose rib. (see images both sides)
No way I can dimple this without breaking the rib hole.
I know the only function of this hole is to hold the nutplate ear and that it's not structural but I'm kind of not willing to have a hole cracked in front of my stabilo.
How would you guys solve this ? I was thinking of just countersinking for the rivet and not dimple it. The skin is a bit on the tin side but it will be less harmfull than dimpling it.
Screenshot 2024-03-27 at 10.17.48 AM.png


Daily RV Pic
Screenshot 2024-03-27 at 3.34.50 PM.png

Cherry Max rivet not fully seated
I used Cherry Max rivets for the first time recently and one of them didn't seat flush to the material on the "factory" side. Not sure if I should drill this one out. The gap under the head is .006". Thoughts??
Update: Just read this in Section5: "Base of manufactured head should be tight against surface of material being riveted." Time to remove my first CherryMax...
Screenshot 2024-03-27 at 3.36.59 PM.png

OFF TOPIC:
Screenshot 2024-03-17 at 2.26.16 PM.png


PS: Older issues of the ‘VAF News’ can be found at:
 
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