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The VAF News - 11.12.2024. #6212. How do COMM Antennae work?,….and more RV news.

DeltaRomeo

doug reeves: unfluencer
Staff member
How does the comm antenna work?
…dpansier chimes in (advertiser - sells antennas)
Shown below are the common types of VHF antennas used by general aviation aircraft, they are 1/4 wave designs requiring a ground plane.

Antenna 1 is a simple rod type antenna. This antenna is fine for local use, Sunday breakfast, unicom, etc, the antenna performance is generally centered on about 127.5 MHz with performance falling off on both band edges.

VHF com antennas such as Comant, Rami, Drone & Margolin and Delta Pop have an impedance matching network built into the antenna base, the matching network insures good antenna performance across the entire 118 - 136 MHz VHF Com band.

Antenna 2 has a matching network similar to the type used by Comant and RAMI, both will show a DC open when measured with a VOM from the center pin to the barrel of the BNC connector and ~50 ohms impedance at the operating frequency.

Antenna 3 is a shorted stub, grounded element design used by Dorne & Margolin and Delta Pop, a grounded element antenna will have the antenna element at DC ground potential, the BNC center pin to the mounting studs will show a DC short with a VOM and ~50 ohm impedance at the operating frequency.

The Transponder and ADS-B / UAT antennas are a different design and will show a DC open when measured with a VOM on the BNC connector.

Keep in mind the antenna design when measuring the antenna coax for shorts and opens, best to disconnect the coax from the antenna base when making these checks.
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In the Filter Update
…moespeeds.
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D180 to Skyview PIREP
…Tony_T
I did the full update from a D180 panel to a Skyview panel in 2016 and did the same as RV12_AL in post #3. There were options early on for this. Van's did all the planning for a Skyview update in 2011 using conversion harnesses and drew up a set of plans. You should download Section 42D from Van's website to get an idea of what would be necessary, step by step, for an RV-12 specific upgrade using conversion harnesses. Section 42D shows a lot of parts and wiring harnesses that may not still be available; that section was from 2011. Alternately, the Dynon conversion manual is 45 pages of highly technical instructions and not specific to the RV12. Also, take into account that this is the RV12 forum but some of the posts are not by folks who have the 12.

After all that is said and done, there is nothing wrong with the D180 panel!! Especially if it has the AP-74 autopilot module and the D100 dual screen. It will let you do all that the RV-12 was designed to do and do it well. Even thought I did the Skyview update, I still think all this latest fancy stuff is trying to make a silk purse out of a sows ear. It's not fast, nor aerobatic, or permitted to fly in IMC . But it is really fun to fly with reasonable cross country ability, and miserly on gas. If I were just getting into a used RV-12 with the D180, I would just fly it and build some RV12 time. Later perhaps consider a newer RV-12 if they still meet your mission profile.

I have attached a couple of pictures; a picture of my old but great D180 panel, and one of the panel with the Skyview update using all the latest components, radio, etc. Also a shot of the 1st page of Section 42D.
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william62696
Title is to attract attention but I suspect it is only an indication issue.

Engine @ 1000RPM = ~105 PSI indication.
Engine not running = ~ 42 PSI indication.

The oil pressure transducer (Stewart Warner 411K) was R&R'd with identical results. The wiring has been inspected with no anomalies noted.

I have done some dumpster diving in the airforce forums and my guess is the culprit would be the gauge but would like your input. Another thought - is there a procedure to calibrate/adjust the gauge?

If you also agree that the gauge is most likely the culprit, does anyone have one lying around from an upgrade, as the Mothership no longer supports the gauge?

Thanks in advance!
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Firewall Mounted Oil Cooler
…mackd PIREP
I found this thread to be extremely helpful when figuring out how I wanted to handle the oil cooler for the 200hp angle valve IO360 on my RV-7. I figured I'd add a report on what I ended up doing.

I knew I wanted to go with a larger cooler mounted on the firewall. I was able to fit the Aero-Classics 10610R 10 row cooler equivalent on the left lower side of my firewall. Given the tight spaces, I ended up constructing a custom 4" duct and diffuser out of fiberglass and with an integral butterfly valve. As you'll see in the pictures, I'm not particularly skilled with fiberglass (all of my experience is from this project), but I am quite pleased with the end result.

Supplies:
Aero-Classics HE Series 8001646 (10610R) 10 row oil cooler
Airflow Systems oil cooler bolt spacers
4" TCW butterfly valve to deconstruct
4" heavy duty PVC hose
Misc hardware
Scrap angle
Home Depot purple foam + spray adhesive
Notes:
This is not pictured, but the front of the oil cooler is supported with a steel bracket to the engine mount.
I replaced the hose section in the last picture with a longer section so the hose clamps would be further from the edge.
I was able to use the stock Van's hoses for the runs between the engine and cooler.
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jmpratt
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WD-1002R Update
…N787KV
Vans said that I should replace WD-1002R, which is not a surprise. The challenge is how. To get the lower rivets out, I'll use a center punch on the rivet heads and start drill with a #40. Then sneak up on it with a #30 bit. For the top row, I was thinking of cutting an access area in the top skin (red in attached pic) to complete the work. Note, the pic shows the left side, but it would be preformed on the right side. I would add a .032 doubler (blue line) and re-skin with .032. As for riveting in the new weldment, I was thinking of using Cherry Max rivet for the top and bottom. Thoughts and comments would be appreciated. Thanks.
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OFF TOPIC:
…seen driving in my local area Monday. Not precisely sure what this guy does for a living, but I have an idea.
dr
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