Long, frustrating Wednesday at the sim side hustle (broke down, delays, etc). Nearly eight hours there for a two hour session. I don't like wearing collared shirts that long if I don't have to ;^). Pushing out Thursday's edition Wednesday evening and off to bed for an early climb in. A better day Thurs (leg day...lots of simulated engine explosions).....fingers crossed. 
You get to like leg day doing seat support - at least it's not boring.
Related to today's edition....THANK YOU!!!! to all the fine folks uploading pics in this forum. You are absolutely making things easier for builders and maintainers coming down the pike behind you.
v/r,dr
PS: WX still blows chunks here in N.TX.
VAF POSTS & RV NEWS THAT CAUGHT MY EYE:
---------------------------------------
Masking Long Curves ...hgerhardt's method
I used an LCD projector aimed normal to the fuselage side and then and taped along the projected black lines. The projected image was a 2-d CAD drawing I had made from the 3-view dxf's Van's supplies. Worked really well. Then, from the tape lines on the one side of the fus, I made paper patterns to use on the other side to ensure a perfect mirror image.
vansairforce.net
Rudder Pedal Coating Poll Results ...TASEsq
In the end, just like 22.9% of respondent’s, I went with powder coating. Only took a couple of days and was $100 cash (which included the steps at the same time).
They were done in a textured black finish - he had me inspect an entire truck bed to see if I wanted the same finish. I felt embarrassed handing him 4 pedals!
vansairforce.net
DIY Paining PIREP ...Bcone1381
I painted using Stewarts. I had not held a paint gun in my life before i did mine. I attended a class, used there tools and had great results. So, very nice results are obtainable the first time painter.
The result (bad or good) will effect the value of your project more than any other thing you do on it. Everyone will judge the entire project by the paint job. The extra expense it takes to do it right is very very small, especially if you take into consederation al you've spent in time and money.
I used the paint gun that Stewarts sells, and I built the air system iaw there instructions (Air system means compressor, filter/dryer, new airlines, that meet Stewarts specifications.) I fear failure for the builder using a HF gun and saving a small amount of money. The Compressor can be sold when your done. Orange peel will result if the size of orfice is not right, or the air pressure at the orfice is not right or, the vicosity of the paint is too high. If your painting with Stearts you'll be rewarded if you do it iaw their recommendations.
vansairforce.net
Replacement Gas Strut Find ...mlinett provides a link
Looking for a model number or place I can buy the HD struts for the door. Any help would be great.
vansairforce.net
RE: ProSeal ...fixnflyguy
It never really "hardens", but rather cures to a density that seals and doesn't flow, but expands/contracts with temperature and structural flex. I have a ton of experience with Proseal and the derivatives in the large aircraft world as well as RV's. Fully cured "old" sealant removal is still accomplished with sharpened plastic scrappers that will leave nothing but the bondline residue. My go -to final clean is red scotchbrite, clean with acetone or MEK and final clean with Coleman camp fuel just before application. In large jets, Boeing/Airbus we just use the MEK or Acetone, sometimes Alcohol..main thing is dry wipe it rather than allow evaporation with cheescloth or clean cotton wipes. As others mentioned, I always make a "test card" blob with sealant batch # and date to hang on the wall for cure confirmation.
vansairforce.net
If You Want To Try 3D Printing ...Reflex stone cold truth bombs
Truer words have never been posted on this forum. If you think you're going to pull this device out of the box, spend a couple of hours with it and start printing out masterpieces...you're wrong. Printing is relatively easy as long as you sent the machine up properly, use the right filament, temperature, etc. The main thing you need to master is the software. I use Solidworks and it's wonderful, but the learning curve is steep. There's not much it won't do and you can use it in an incredible number of ways. However, be prepared to spend a significant amount of time learning it.
Today, I'm somewhat versed in Solidworks and use it on occasion. Currently, I'm making molds for fiberglass parts (transition from square to round on RV-14 oil cooler) and have discovered that PVA filament is water soluble. You can make very complex shapes cover them with fiberglass and then just dissolve the mold. Very cool, but time consuming and expensive.
I have the CR-10 printer and it works OK. There are lots of issues and the print is sloooow. It also decides to get a mind of its own sometimes and 3 hours into a print, it will malfunction and you have to start over. Those who 3D print frequently know what I'm talking about.
My son recently bought a Carbon X1. The difference is hard to describe. Fast, great finish, no humidity issues to worry about, simple to set up and very forgiving. It is crazy good. I now use it and my CR-10 sits in a corner.
So, what's the point of the post? If you're thinking about purchasing a 3D printer, you need to be IT/computer savvy and be prepared to learn the software. If you have these skills, you can do wonderful things like posted in the picture(s) above. If not, you're going to spend a lot of time, money, and patience trying to manufacture something that could be carved out of foam or custom 3D printed. Translation: If you can't/don't know how to post pictures on this form, you're not qualified.
If you're still determined to go/learn 3D, by the best model you possibly can afford. Cheap stuff will impress you at first, but as soon as you learn what you're doing, you'll wish you'd have spent the additional money on a quality machine and software.
vansairforce.net
And this issue's Off Topic:
You get to like leg day doing seat support - at least it's not boring.Related to today's edition....THANK YOU!!!! to all the fine folks uploading pics in this forum. You are absolutely making things easier for builders and maintainers coming down the pike behind you.
v/r,dr
PS: WX still blows chunks here in N.TX.
VAF POSTS & RV NEWS THAT CAUGHT MY EYE:
---------------------------------------
Masking Long Curves ...hgerhardt's method
I used an LCD projector aimed normal to the fuselage side and then and taped along the projected black lines. The projected image was a 2-d CAD drawing I had made from the 3-view dxf's Van's supplies. Worked really well. Then, from the tape lines on the one side of the fus, I made paper patterns to use on the other side to ensure a perfect mirror image.
Masking Long Curves
So, I thought I could freehand the curved stripe on the fuselage of my -14A. I did, but it turned out pretty crappy. Lots of variations in width. Not acceptable. So, before I sand it all off and do it again, I would like to know if there is a method a shade tree painter like me can use to...
vansairforce.net
Rudder Pedal Coating Poll Results ...TASEsq
In the end, just like 22.9% of respondent’s, I went with powder coating. Only took a couple of days and was $100 cash (which included the steps at the same time).
They were done in a textured black finish - he had me inspect an entire truck bed to see if I wanted the same finish. I felt embarrassed handing him 4 pedals!
Rudder Pedal Finish
How have you finished your rudder (brake) pedals? Survey: https://forms.gle/xsvJsb4KtcX5BGV98 Results so far (34 responses)
vansairforce.net
DIY Paining PIREP ...Bcone1381
I painted using Stewarts. I had not held a paint gun in my life before i did mine. I attended a class, used there tools and had great results. So, very nice results are obtainable the first time painter.
The result (bad or good) will effect the value of your project more than any other thing you do on it. Everyone will judge the entire project by the paint job. The extra expense it takes to do it right is very very small, especially if you take into consederation al you've spent in time and money.
I used the paint gun that Stewarts sells, and I built the air system iaw there instructions (Air system means compressor, filter/dryer, new airlines, that meet Stewarts specifications.) I fear failure for the builder using a HF gun and saving a small amount of money. The Compressor can be sold when your done. Orange peel will result if the size of orfice is not right, or the air pressure at the orfice is not right or, the vicosity of the paint is too high. If your painting with Stearts you'll be rewarded if you do it iaw their recommendations.
DIY Painting Expenses
Just an FYI for those interested in the costs to paint your ship yourself. My color scheme is two tone, with a metallic silver on top, white on the bottom, a thickish charcoal metal flake stripe on the side with another tan-gold pearl strip below that. This is being done with the Sherwin...
vansairforce.net
Replacement Gas Strut Find ...mlinett provides a link
Looking for a model number or place I can buy the HD struts for the door. Any help would be great.
Door Gas Strut Replacement
Looking for a model number or place I can buy the HD struts for the door. Any help would be great.
vansairforce.net
RE: ProSeal ...fixnflyguy
It never really "hardens", but rather cures to a density that seals and doesn't flow, but expands/contracts with temperature and structural flex. I have a ton of experience with Proseal and the derivatives in the large aircraft world as well as RV's. Fully cured "old" sealant removal is still accomplished with sharpened plastic scrappers that will leave nothing but the bondline residue. My go -to final clean is red scotchbrite, clean with acetone or MEK and final clean with Coleman camp fuel just before application. In large jets, Boeing/Airbus we just use the MEK or Acetone, sometimes Alcohol..main thing is dry wipe it rather than allow evaporation with cheescloth or clean cotton wipes. As others mentioned, I always make a "test card" blob with sealant batch # and date to hang on the wall for cure confirmation.
Cured tank sealant properties
I'm in the process of building my tanks, I scuffed and cleaned the faying surfaces before dimpleing and cleaned again before installation. I have yet to install the baffle. Everything looks good so far...I think. What does fully cured sealant feel like exactly? And how well does it adhere when...
vansairforce.net
If You Want To Try 3D Printing ...Reflex stone cold truth bombs
Truer words have never been posted on this forum. If you think you're going to pull this device out of the box, spend a couple of hours with it and start printing out masterpieces...you're wrong. Printing is relatively easy as long as you sent the machine up properly, use the right filament, temperature, etc. The main thing you need to master is the software. I use Solidworks and it's wonderful, but the learning curve is steep. There's not much it won't do and you can use it in an incredible number of ways. However, be prepared to spend a significant amount of time learning it.
Today, I'm somewhat versed in Solidworks and use it on occasion. Currently, I'm making molds for fiberglass parts (transition from square to round on RV-14 oil cooler) and have discovered that PVA filament is water soluble. You can make very complex shapes cover them with fiberglass and then just dissolve the mold. Very cool, but time consuming and expensive.
I have the CR-10 printer and it works OK. There are lots of issues and the print is sloooow. It also decides to get a mind of its own sometimes and 3 hours into a print, it will malfunction and you have to start over. Those who 3D print frequently know what I'm talking about.
My son recently bought a Carbon X1. The difference is hard to describe. Fast, great finish, no humidity issues to worry about, simple to set up and very forgiving. It is crazy good. I now use it and my CR-10 sits in a corner.
So, what's the point of the post? If you're thinking about purchasing a 3D printer, you need to be IT/computer savvy and be prepared to learn the software. If you have these skills, you can do wonderful things like posted in the picture(s) above. If not, you're going to spend a lot of time, money, and patience trying to manufacture something that could be carved out of foam or custom 3D printed. Translation: If you can't/don't know how to post pictures on this form, you're not qualified.
If you're still determined to go/learn 3D, by the best model you possibly can afford. Cheap stuff will impress you at first, but as soon as you learn what you're doing, you'll wish you'd have spent the additional money on a quality machine and software.
3D Printers
I've wanted a 3D printer to play with for some time but never had enough of an excuse to get one. Now I do so I'm on the hunt. I know there are a bunch of you using them but I couldn't find any threads on recommended printers. If there is I'd appreciate a link. If not, what do you recommend for...
vansairforce.net
And this issue's Off Topic:
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