Setting up Shop - Need some advice

[gpiney]

I have been spending time over the past few weeks setting up shop to start an
RV-8 build. I need some advice on a couple of things. I have a bandsaw and a combination disk/belt sander. What blade would be best all around for the band saw and what grit/composition of disk/belt for the sander.

On another point, I was at Lowes the other day and I was looking at some of the specs on one of their compressors.

1.8 HP - 115 volts
Oil lubricated
30 Gallon tank (veritcal w/wheels)
155 PSI
Reasonably high SCFM numbers (as compared to other compressors there)
$$$ 397.00

I went on their website only to find that the particular compressor was not listed there. Does anyone here have any experience with this compressor?

Thanks in advance,

Greg Piney

 

[jcoloccia]

If you have access to 220V (or can easily have it installed....you'd be surprised...it may not be much), I'd go with their 60 gallon 13 CFM compressor (they have 2 60 gallons...a 10 and a 13....I like the 13). This is the compressor that I have, and I can run every tool I own all day long, including the die grinder. It's not much more than the one you're looking at, and having the 60 gallons w/high CFM is one of those little luxuries I really wanted. Whatever you do, don't get oilless unless you live in the middle of nowhere and don't mind loud irratating noises. You would not believe the racket they make. Speaking of racket, the other huge advantage to the big tank is that the compressor runs MUCH less frequently than it does with a smaller tank. This makes for a really pleasant work environment IMHO.

re: belt and disk sander. I have a little ryobi. I use 80 grit in both. That's what seems to work well for me, and I only use it for relatively rough work. I seem to use it an awful lot, though. You'll experiment and find your own favorite. If you haven't done anything like this before, you may want to use 120, or something like that...at least in the disc sander. It's very easy to take off a bit too much with the 80. Ask me how I know this . Aluminum Oxide is the way to go here. Most of what you'll find a Home Depot and Lowes is Aluminum Oxide anyhow, so it works out

I rarely use the band saw (for angle in thick aluminum, I just grind on the disc sander...works dandy. On thin stock, Wiss snips work fine. My bandsaw is collecting dust). Others use it all the time. Just a preference. For aluminum, the type of blade doesn't really matter that much (i.e. you're not going to be cutting through stainless steel, or anything ridiculous like that). Standard blades you can find at Lowes and Home Depot work fine. You do want to find a blade with lots of teeth per inch, though, or you'll tear up the aluminum. The blade I'm using is 24 TPI, I think. Maybe 18 or 20. I don't remember, but take the blade that came with the bandsaw and chuck it.....they're typically pretty crappy and are designed for rough cuts, ripping etc.

I hope this is helpful. Sorry I didn't have more info on the compressor.

 

[sf3543]

I agree with the previous post, in most cases; however, here's my experience after 2 homebuilts and now working on #3.
I have a 60 Gal compressor at the hangar and a 20 gal at home wher I do most of my building. The 60 gal is great, but it uses 220 v and I didn't want to rip up my finished wall at home to put it where I need it. The smaller compressor works just fine for everything you will be using it for; however, as said before it will run more. It also runs on 110 V. Home Depot has a really nice one for $399...I think Lowe's has a similar model. Do not get a diaphragm/oilless compressor or you and your neighbors will lose their hearing. They are extremely loud. Get a piston type compressor. (If it has a v belt on it, that's what you want.)
I have a 12" Sears band saw and a small bench top 10" one at home. I use it all the time, along with the sander. I prefer the 1/8" 14 tooth per inch blade. You can make sharper curves with the narrower blade. The 8 tooth (?) blade tends to grab at the end of your cut and can bend your piece. You will use several blades over the length of the project. BEWARE - cutting fiberglass will ruin the blade. It will also ruin drill bits quickly. I do not like using snips since they tend to deform the metal unless you leave an edge and then file it back.
The sander is also great for smoothing edges and taking off metal. i.e. If you cut a piece of metal on a straight line, take it to the sander and sand it to a perfect straight line. It works great.
Get a Scotchbrite wheel to put on a grinder for deburring. This saves tons of time.
You'll also need the basic riveting and deburring tools, etc., etc., etc.
Everyone has their favorite methods and tools...you decide for yourself.

 

[LettersFromFlyoverCountry]

Get a Scotchbrite wheel to put on a grinder for deburring. This saves tons of time.

I found the Scotchbrite wheel to be indispensable. I also use it the way some folks use a sander belt. I put two 6" wheels on the grinder....the one for deburring on one side and the one for polishing on the other. I didn't buy a bandsaw (went with the cheapo Harbor Freigh model...buy lots of replacement blades because good luck finding the 62" 1/4" blades anywhere) until the fuse and could've used it earlier, but a hacksaw works too (like everything else, what you equip is a reflection of how much you want to spend), likewise the drill press.

But I agree that the compressor is the "spouse" in the project. You and he/she will go many places together and you have to get along. I started the project with a small Sears oilless and I was never so happy as the day I sold it to a neighbor (far!) up the street for $50 and bought the Home Depot 5hp/26 gal oil-filled model and it was like when the prettiest girl in class said she'd go to the prom with you, I tell ya! yeah, just like it. (disclaimer: it's been a few years).

My handiest "tool," however is the little 6" steel ruler.And the little plastic thing to draw centerlines and such on flanges.

My biggest waste has been the edge roller wheel. I think I could've gotten better results with a hand seamer.

Other recommendation: Lots of lights...drop lights, fixed lights, doesn't matter. But lots of light makes for a happy builder, especially if you plan on getting older during the course of the project.

Cd player, radio, ethernet connection...also helpful.

YMMV.

 

[rzbill]

Drill Press?

Greg,
Early in the empenage construction, there are some lightening holes that need to be cut in 1/8" aluminum plate. I think the normal method is a fly cutter and drill press although there are other ways to do it. Mill, holesaw, etc.

So far ( I am about finished with wings ), there were two operations that demanded a drill press. The holes mentioned above and c'sinking the AEX wedge although the AEX wedge could be safely done by hand if you wish to give up a little accuracy. Others that are further along in construction may certainly add to this.

The point of this post is to warn you about buying a "cheapo" drill press for this hole cutting operation. The $100 bench drill presses do not have belt pulleys that slow the spindle down to a safe speed for use with the fly cutter at these large diameters. I did jury rig mine to slow it down a little, but I still broke the fly cutter (on the last hole, fortunately). It not only broke the fly cutter but bent the spindle too. It had .010 runout after the event. Fortunately, Lowes replaced it.

Otherwise, the drill press is very handy for a zillion other operations and I would recommend getting one. If you decide on a bench model, please make arrangements to use a better one for the fly cutting operation. Or maybe buy hole saws instead of a fly cutter.

 

[LettersFromFlyoverCountry]

Hi Bill:

The AEX wedge. Is that the trailing edge piece for the rudder. Since I'd already built the original rudder, Van's sent me the new rudder with the fuselage kit and so I'm just gettting to that. How did you level the piece for countersinking with the drill press. It's such a narrow piece

 

[DGlaeser]

TE Wedge Countersink

Here is how I did it on my cheap Lowe's drill press. I have a bunch of hardwood flooring pieces left over from doing a room in the house a couple of years ago...

Dennis Glaeser
7A Wings done - fuselage coming...

 

[jcoloccia]

re: AEX wedge

I just held it in my hand, put the countersink cage in my cordless drill, and went to town. The drill press is probably better, but this seemed to work just fine just for making a countersink for the dimple to sit in.

 

[Rick6a]

.........setting up shop to start an RV-8 build
...........I have a bandsaw and a combination disk/belt sander.
What blade would be best all around for the band saw
and what grit/composition of disk/belt for the sander...Greg Piney

Hi Greg,

Congratulations on the RV-8 project. Nice choice. Immediately
after getting my 6A flying, I just couldn't put the rivet gun
down and had to start one myself!

I find a 15 TPI general smooth bandsaw blade to be "all around"
useful and as the photo illustrates, in a pinch can deal with even
.250 aluminum stock though .063 and thinner stock will
likely be sawed much more often. I used the same blade
throughout the 6A project. I rarely use tin snips.

Routinely used as the "standard" found on many production
shop floors, 80 grit is probably the best "all around" paper
to fit your sander with. Used in conjunction with a motor
fitted with both medium and fine grade scotchbrite wheels
as illustrated, many of your sanding/deburring/polishing needs
will be easily met.

Rick Galati RV-6A "Darla" 100 hours
RV-8A empennage complete

 

[gpiney]

Thanks everyone for their input. I didn't mention that both the bandsaw and drillpress are both floorstanding. Not Cheep Crap. Another question arose. What speed should I set the drill press at. It is belt driven with 6 speeds. Right now it is set at it's lowest speed. Mostly use it for wood right now.

Greg Piney
RV8 Gonnabe (Real Soon Now)

 

[Mel]

Rule of thumb on speeds is soft materials like aluminum, use high speed with little pressure. Hard materials like steel, use low speed and more pressure and lubrication.
Mel...DAR

 

[jcoloccia]

re: drill press. If the -8 vertical stab is anything like the -7, the first thing you'll actually "need" the drill press for is lightening holes. I use a fly cutter for these, and 400 rpm would be nice. Mine goes down to 600 RPM and it's a little faster than I'd like.