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Rv7 fuel tank access hole patch

I just cut my own repair cover plates, .040 or .063 sheet, doesn’t need to be 2024, could use 6061, 5052, whatever is available locally. Cut the covers same diameter as the side access cover, cut the hole in the baffle 1.5” less in diameter.
You should source the proper tank pull rivets called for in the plans though. Maybe somebody could chime in with the rivet part#.
 
gassman said:
Does anyone have 2 access hole patch kits laying around? I have 2 weeping rivets next each other separated by a bay
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Why don’t you try to replace the weeping rivets with my EZ-OOPS sealed end rivets that have the head reconfigured to match the original -3 bucked rivets. Stanley/POP number AK41H - modified.

If this doesn’t work, you’re no worse off than you are now, w/o cutting holes in the rear baffle.

DM me if you have any interest …

Thx - HFS
 
I would do this if its a solid fix. Im in the position to be able to remove the tank and "do it right". The wrap guys were supposed to start this am to do the whole plane. Unfortunately that is not happening. Fortunately I discovered this before he started. If I could remove the tank and drill and squeeze new gooped rivets that would be great. The 2 offenders are on the trailing edge of the tank so I can get to them. Again, these are factory built tanks so im not familiar with building tanks but pretty sure I understand the concept of the construction. I am a little confused at the coments on avgas sitting in the voids and softening the proseal as opposed to laying a filet of proseal on the inside and the avgas not softening that.
 
gassman said:
I would do this if its a solid fix. Im in the position to be able to remove the tank and "do it right". The wrap guys were supposed to start this am to do the whole plane. Unfortunately that is not happening. Fortunately I discovered this before he started. If I could remove the tank and drill and squeeze new gooped rivets that would be great. The 2 offenders are on the trailing edge of the tank so I can get to them. Again, these are factory built tanks so im not familiar with building tanks but pretty sure I understand the concept of the construction. I am a little confused at the coments on avgas sitting in the voids and softening the proseal as opposed to laying a filet of proseal on the inside and the avgas not softening that.
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If the "wrap" will cover the fuel tank rivets, I think (not know) that vinyl doesn't play well when exposed to avgas for any period of time. That being said, you (probably) need to make the most conservative plan so as to be successful the first time.

I am helping a friend chase down rear baffle rivet leaks in one of his tanks (RV-14) . So far he has opened up one bay (where he thought the leak was), added proseal there as indicated by his inspection & replaced the leaky rivet. Tested for leaks after a two week cure - no leaks. Then ... a few weeks later, just to check, several more rivets indicated leakage - drilled them out, sealed them with proseal and squeezed new rivets. Same thing - a few weeks later several more rivets were leaking. This is starting to feel like the old saying "rinse, wash, repeat" with no end in sight. Think "Whack-a-Mole"

Any leak coming through a rear baffle rivet first has to get by the corner seal of the baffle to skin - and may or may not spread laterally from there.

Since you can (if tank is removed) get to the rivets to squeeze them, there's no need for a pull rivet. But, if when drilling out the existing rivet(s) you enlarge the hole (but not by much), NAS1241AD3-_ (1/64" oversize - .109") are much easier to drive/squeeze than the NAS1097AD4--_ oversize "oops" rivets.

Good luck with whatever choice you make ...

HFS
 
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