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Removing Manual Trim Cable
- Thread starter fr0gpil0t
- Start date
In my 8A I cut them and pulled them out in parts. Much easier than trying to do the whole thing in one piece.
Sam Buchanan
been here awhile
Pretty sure if you cut the snap-in nylon bushings in the fuse bulkheads off the cable you can pull the small end of the cable out through the holes in the bulkheads. That is basically the reverse of the installation procedure.
Yes I've removed it from a few of the bulkheads by popping the snap-in bushing out. Some of the bushing are not easy to get to and I'm curious how the cable got through the bushing in the first place which made me think one of the ends should come off.
Sam Buchanan
been here awhile
The bushing gets pushed into the bulkhead after the cable is inserted through the bulkhead.
I think you are unwise removing the manual trim. I've built several RVs (6,7 and 9 ) and flown them . I own and RV 7a that I built and decided to put electric trim after having an RV 6a with manual trim. Having flown both types of installation, I would say the feel of the manual trim is better than the non feel of electric trim. I can also mention when I lost all my electrics ( ie Dynon EFIS , radio etc, I found flying a plane out of trim ( not changeable) when in-the circuit and getting setup for landing manageable but would have added to the workload in a busy environment. Jeff
Tankerpilot75
Well Known Member
About eight years ago I converted my (new to me) RV7A from manual trim to electric trim. Once you get the manual trim cable out you’ll need to consider how you’re going to setup your electric trim system. I converted both elevator and aileron trim to electrical trim.
I didn’t want to have to change the elevator trim tab/horizontal stabilizer setup that the manual trim system used so I mounted the Ray Allen trim module on the shelf under the vertical stabilizer and purchased a custom built push/pull cable (I think around 24 inches) from ACS and routed it to the trim tab the through the same setup as the manual trim system used. I also in stalled the Pat Hatch UTRB (Ultimate Trim Relay Board) under the CP seat to facilitate the installation of the Tosten military style and multi-function six button grips that I concurrently installed in both pilot positions.
I highly recommend using something like the PH UTRB board to prevent one pilot canceling out inputs the other pilot (think IP or active passenger) might be making at the same time and to better control trim inputs. BTW, Pat was extremely helpful when I did this helping me via email and numerous phone calls as I struggled with the installation issues (I wasn’t very smart electrically at the time - still dumb but better).
Through my Tosten grips I have a “coolie style” trim button, com 1&2 and frequency swap buttons, pilot and copilot PTT, A/P engage/disengage, transponder ident, and on the pilot’s stick - flap momentary actuation. All of this (except flaps) routed through the UTRB hub to prevent one pilot’s action canceling out the other pilot’s action. Love it.
I will say it took several weeks (mostly because of my learning curve) but I love the conversion and wouldn’t go back.
I didn’t want to have to change the elevator trim tab/horizontal stabilizer setup that the manual trim system used so I mounted the Ray Allen trim module on the shelf under the vertical stabilizer and purchased a custom built push/pull cable (I think around 24 inches) from ACS and routed it to the trim tab the through the same setup as the manual trim system used. I also in stalled the Pat Hatch UTRB (Ultimate Trim Relay Board) under the CP seat to facilitate the installation of the Tosten military style and multi-function six button grips that I concurrently installed in both pilot positions.
I highly recommend using something like the PH UTRB board to prevent one pilot canceling out inputs the other pilot (think IP or active passenger) might be making at the same time and to better control trim inputs. BTW, Pat was extremely helpful when I did this helping me via email and numerous phone calls as I struggled with the installation issues (I wasn’t very smart electrically at the time - still dumb but better).
Through my Tosten grips I have a “coolie style” trim button, com 1&2 and frequency swap buttons, pilot and copilot PTT, A/P engage/disengage, transponder ident, and on the pilot’s stick - flap momentary actuation. All of this (except flaps) routed through the UTRB hub to prevent one pilot’s action canceling out the other pilot’s action. Love it.
I will say it took several weeks (mostly because of my learning curve) but I love the conversion and wouldn’t go back.
I think it’s unwise to make general statements like this without knowing the OP’s plan for setting up the electric trim.
I love my electric trim and will never go back. The feel is fine if you have a two speed controller or a step up controller to vary trim speed based on airspeed.
As for power outages, why wouldn’t you have a backup power source? I do.
If that fails, I’ve tested it and it flies fine without needing to adjust the trim. You just need to fly it. It still flies better than an old bent Cessna 172 from the 50s in a failed electric trim state.
I’m in both camps- my -7 has a manual trim and I’d never change it. My -10 electric and the trim speed is 1/3 normal in cruise (regulated by the G3x / autopilot system) which is ok, but definitely needs some sort of regulation as otherwise it’s far too sensitive
Regards Peter
Regards Peter
