Those can be moved to the rear spinner bulkhead to make them available for magnets.I see.
I think in my plane I have some of those holes filled with bolts for balancing.
Those can be moved to the rear spinner bulkhead to make them available for magnets.I see.
I think in my plane I have some of those holes filled with bolts for balancing.
The fuel pump is in the rear.Where is the fuel pump located on that engine? Up front like H2AD, or in the rear like most Lycomings?
Suggest the old GM MAP sensor. Cheap, reliable and widly available. Its a transducer, so easy to integrate into both HW & SW - has a linear scale, so no math for PeteI'm thinking about an optional MP sensor... looking for a suitable part
Larry clearly has worked with me before!no math for Pete.
Larry,You can't just hang a sensor off a fixture up there. If the belt breaks, it would likely rip the sensor off the fixture. I machine out a channel for the wires and cover it with a plate. Wires are even more open to belt damage. I also machine out a cavity for the sensor and bed it in epoxy and machine flat again. There are tolerances on magnet distance, so even if the sensor bent a bit, result is the same - no ignition. Just not robust IMO.
I potted 11 magnets inside bronze pins and pressed into the existing holes in the ring gear support; used sleeve retaining compound for redundancy. I then machined a fixture that holds the hall effect sensor .050" away from the ring gear/magnets. That part bolts to the case via the two 3/8" case bolts up at the nose. Dimensions are pretty stable there, so can make these parts for others to bolt on.Larry,
Are you saying you didn't do a flywheel tone ring and case mounted sensor? What did you machine out? I'm guessing you didn't machine the case. I don't have the option of a mag hole pickup with the dual Bendix. Having a pickup on the flywheel and a trad mag in my only mag hole gives me redundancy. Maybe send cut send wasn't the correct place for a billet mount for the sensor, but I can have one made easily if I have dimensions. I could start from scratch and reinvent the wheel, but I was hoping somebody had documented a pickup mount that I could work off of.
photo?I potted 11 magnets inside bronze pins and pressed into the existing holes in the ring gear support; used sleeve retaining compound for redundancy. I then machined a fixture that holds the hall effect sensor .050" away from the ring gear/magnets. That part bolts to the case via the two 3/8" case bolts up at the nose. Dimensions are pretty stable there, so can make these parts for others to bolt on.
Sorry, but didn't keep the dimensions. If I made a kit, I would have to start from scratch, but it wasn't that hard.
Sorry, but didn’t take any. Can shoot one next time cowl is off.photo?
What would you consider to be "proper aircraft quality connector"? D-sub is used extensively in avionics by Garmin etc.... MilSpec it isn't...I guess it depends on your personal preferences; I can't imagine ever replacing my magnetoes with something that requires external power. And I'm still waiting for a self-powered electronic ignition with fixed timing and proper aircraft quality connectors.
What would you consider to be "proper aircraft quality connector"? D-sub is used extensively in avionics by Garmin etc.... MilSpec it isn't...
I took this photo at one of my customer's facilities - I was surprised to see dsub connectors on a spacecraft - even if this one didn't fly.D-subminiature connectors (MIL-DTL-24308) with proper gold-plated crimp pins (MIL-DTL-39029) are indeed used extensively in many avionics products! And if your avionics manufacturer is serious, they will use or specify components that meet the above Milspecs.

Looking really good Bryan! - more friends have helped make a cover for the gear and sensor from Bryan's design . Hope to test on the workbench next week with a micro-controller and firmware to verify signal quality and basic UI on a phone. .Progress update. Yes I know that the sensor gap is too large and the sensor is not square to the wheel.
This is more of a "proof of concept" unit, not airworthy. If the sensor provides a good reliable signal with these flaws then we'll be more confident yet with proper alignment.
View attachment 117377



i would zoom in on that graph and check for consistency in the time between each of the 11 teeth. it is not just about the physical spacing of the teeth, but how the sensor and SW deal with either the shape of the rise or fall, depending upon how you coded it, and how it captures/processes it.. suspect you are capturing this in the code somewhere, but worth being sure.Testing has begun! Bryan sent the test mule last week and I made a crude test bench for it. Been spinning it for a few hours. The hall effect wires plug right into the ESP32 then it sends data wirelessly to the ipad.
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Screen grab from the test software
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It makes nice square waves on the ipad reading data from the ESP32. Data logs say it reads the missing tooth really well(synced), but we miss a few tooth reads. I think we might have the sensor to tooth gap a bit large. We will change and test. More to come........
View attachment 118068
As this is a Hall sensor, there isn't the same sort of sine waveform as on a VR type.i would zoom in on that graph and check for consistency in the time between each of the 11 teeth. it is not just about the physical spacing of the teeth, but how the sensor and SW deal with either the shape of the rise or fall, depending upon how you coded it, and how it captures/processes it.. suspect you are capturing this in the code somewhere, but worth being sure.
No, the wave is not the same, but there is still a capture on the rising or faling edge, though it is baked into the sensor hardware. With hall effect, you cannot tweak settings to adjust it, like VR, but it still must be tested. Challenges will have to be dealt with via mechanial issues - sensor gap, tooth shape, magnet strength, etc. I have no experience with the type of hall effect sensor you are using. I have only worked with sensors that use magnets instead of ferrous metal. Suspect the latter are far more sensitive due to the weaker magnetic field.As this is a Hall sensor, there isn't the same sort of sine waveform as on a VR type.
That said, our timing isn't 100% quality currently and we are investigating why.
based upon your previous post, I expect the excessive sensor gap is a large part of your reliability issues. while not VR, the issues are the same, need a strong enough magnetic field for consistency and reliability and steel parts don't have a strong field. This requires tighter gaps.No, the wave is not the same, but there is still a capture on the rising or faling edge, though it is baked into the sensor hardware. With hall effect, you cannot tweak settings to adjust it, like VR, but it still must be tested. Challenges will have to be dealt with via mechanial issues - sensor gap, tooth shape, magnet strength, etc. I have no experience with the type of hall effect sensor you are using. I have only worked with sensors that use magnets instead of ferrous metal. Suspect the latter are far more sensitive due to the weaker magnetic field.
Most likely. Interestingly the gap is just 10% greater than the sensor's datasheet max recommendation. Part of our research will be to find at what gap the reliability starts to decrease.based upon your previous post, I expect the excessive sensor gap is a large part of your reliability issues. while not VR, the issues are the same, need a strong enough magnetic field for consistency and reliability and steel parts don't have a strong field. This requires tighter gaps.