No spring on crank nose seal??

[edhunter]

I have been chasing a front engine oil leak for some time. Finally decided to pull the prop and replace the front crank seal. Once prop off the seal looked good, with "maybe" a small leak at the case seam on the bottom. I've had oil on my starter and alternator for a few weeks. I put dye in the oil, ran the engine/cycled the prop - until oil temp was warm - probably 30-40 minutes. No leak found anywhere. So today I bit the bullet and pulled the prop. Not a bad job only I forgot to put a bucket under the prop so made a heck of a mess when the prop came off the crank. Anyway, pulled the seal - not a bad job, used a 90º pick to poke a hole in it and lever it out. This is a 430 hour engine, was new when purchased by builder. No idea if the seal had been replaced before or not. I was surprised to see it was a split seal with no spring. It was installed with pliobond I think (brown glue).
Are these a thing, or did the assembler forget to put the spring in?

 

[rvbuilder2002]

Ever one I have ever removed or installed (split or non- split) has had a spring.

I only use the non-split when replacing one.

 

[rhill]

Might have something to do with the processes. On a one piece you remove the spring, heat the seal in hot water, stretch it over the flange with the special tool, give it a day to shrink back to shape then reinstall the spring before seating it home. So yes there needs to be a spring.

 

[RV3Bob]

Make sure the spring did not pop off while removing the seal. Also the ends can get un hooked. Look carefully inside seal area on the engine. Some late model Porsches have no spring on crank seals but that is because of excessive displacement of the crank in the case.

Bob Grigsby. Going backwards on 3B project. Annual time on J3

 

[Scott Hersha]

Ever one I have ever removed or installed (split or non- split) has had a spring.

I only use the non-split when replacing one.

I also have never seen one without a spring. I needed to replace one several years ago and had my local A&P install it. Non-split seal with a spring, even though I had one that was split (included the spring). I decided not to use the split one because I was afraid it would leak. Not too hard to stretch the solid one over the crankshaft hub if you boil it first.

 

[bonefishdave]

That Split seals does not use a spring.
Pliobond or Dow 737 is recommended when installing.

I have been chasing a front engine oil leak for some time. Finally decided to pull the prop and replace the front crank seal. Once prop off the seal looked good, with "maybe" a small leak at the case seam on the bottom. I've had oil on my starter and alternator for a few weeks. I put dye in the oil, ran the engine/cycled the prop - until oil temp was warm - probably 30-40 minutes. No leak found anywhere. So today I bit the bullet and pulled the prop. Not a bad job only I forgot to put a bucket under the prop so made a heck of a mess when the prop came off the crank. Anyway, pulled the seal - not a bad job, used a 90º pick to poke a hole in it and lever it out. This is a 430 hour engine, was new when purchased by builder. No idea if the seal had been replaced before or not. I was surprised to see it was a split seal with no spring. It was installed with pliobond I think (brown glue).
Are these a thing, or did the assembler forget to put the spring in?

 

[PaulvS]

Split seal no spring

+1 the split seal does not have a spring, per the Lycoming SI, attached below.