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G3X Oil temp spikes with electrical load

Foray

I'm New Here
I’m seeing a repeatable oil temperature indication change on my G3X that appears directly tied to electrical load.

When I turn on high-current loads like landing lights, the indicated oil temp increases about 12°F. As soon as the load is removed, the indication drops immediately. There’s no thermal lag—it’s instantaneous. It’s only the oil temp that moves under load—everything else remains unaffected.

This is on a Garmin G3X with a GEA 24 and a 16 year old thermocouple oil temp probe, single wire.

I’ve already re-routed the sender wiring and confirmed all grounds, including the engine ground. The behavior is consistent across different electrical loads. At this point it looks like an indication issue rather than an actual temperature change.

Has anyone with a G3X and thermocouple oil temp probe seen something like this?

Thanks in advance,

Greg
RV-7A
 
Does the GEA 24 have a ground tied to the engine? I’ve seen artifacts like this when something like the GEA 24 isn’t grounded at the engine.

I also had a problem with odd sensor readings with an early production GEA 24B that Garmin had me return for a GEA 24. But the engine was a Rotax.
 
Does the GEA 24 have a ground tied to the engine? I’ve seen artifacts like this when something like the GEA 24 isn’t grounded at the engine.

I also had a problem with odd sensor readings with an early production GEA 24B that Garmin had me return for a GEA 24. But the engine was a Rotax.
Yes, the GEA 24 is grounded to the engine via a ground block with a full-size ground strap directly to the engine.

That said, I like where you’re going with this. I’m going to run a temporary independent ground from the GEA 24 directly to the engine and see if it changes the behavior.

If that doesn’t have any effect, I’ll move on to replacing components, starting with the probe.

Appreciate the insight.

Best,

Greg
 
Did you see any improvement, Greg? I'm seeing something similar and in our case taking the alternator offline makes things behave much better - temps drop overall, and increased loads (lights, pumps etc) no longer cause temp jumps. Have you tried that test?

If you're having the same issue we are having, I think there is a good chance your our sensors are fine and it's a matter of grounding, which these sensors are inherently sensitive to.

Even if the sensor is ok, I do agree that these engine grounded sensors with only one wire are definitely suboptimal since they introduce these possible grounding problems, and I bet this is what we are both experiencing. Unfortunately we currently have 3 of these sensors (oil, coolant, gearbox tmp) and it may not be feasible to swap them all out in the near term, so we are trying to fix what we have first. We also have a few other mounted temp sensors (non G3X) for cross checks on engine temps.

One clarification: if you truly only have one wire I doubt it is a thermocouple. Those are a bundle of two wires that can look like one, but two connections are needed to read the temp and I don't think you ever ground them to the engine. I'm guessing you probably meant thermisistor? This is what we have and I think would be more likely for an oil temp sensor the way you are describing it, and the behavior you are seeing would then make more sense.

Since the alternator has such a big influence in our case, I think our issue must have something to do with the path between alternator ground and the battery and to the G3x - so through the engine, some ground straps and garmin wiring. If I'm thinking about this correctly, resistance there would increase voltage of the engine metal relative to the G3X reference ground causing the G3X too "see" lower voltage drop on the engine grounded sensors, thus higher temps.

Will be poking around trying to solve this in the next couple weeks and will report back!

Andy (RV9A, Subaru EJ25)
 
Did you see any improvement, Greg? I'm seeing something similar and in our case taking the alternator offline makes things behave much better - temps drop overall, and increased loads (lights, pumps etc) no longer cause temp jumps. Have you tried that test?

If you're having the same issue we are having, I think there is a good chance your our sensors are fine and it's a matter of grounding, which these sensors are inherently sensitive to.

Even if the sensor is ok, I do agree that these engine grounded sensors with only one wire are definitely suboptimal since they introduce these possible grounding problems, and I bet this is what we are both experiencing. Unfortunately we currently have 3 of these sensors (oil, coolant, gearbox tmp) and it may not be feasible to swap them all out in the near term, so we are trying to fix what we have first. We also have a few other mounted temp sensors (non G3X) for cross checks on engine temps.

One clarification: if you truly only have one wire I doubt it is a thermocouple. Those are a bundle of two wires that can look like one, but two connections are needed to read the temp and I don't think you ever ground them to the engine. I'm guessing you probably meant thermisistor? This is what we have and I think would be more likely for an oil temp sensor the way you are describing it, and the behavior you are seeing would then make more sense.

Since the alternator has such a big influence in our case, I think our issue must have something to do with the path between alternator ground and the battery and to the G3x - so through the engine, some ground straps and garmin wiring. If I'm thinking about this correctly, resistance there would increase voltage of the engine metal relative to the G3X reference ground causing the G3X too "see" lower voltage drop on the engine grounded sensors, thus higher temps.

Will be poking around trying to solve this in the next couple weeks and will report back!

Andy (RV9A, Subaru EJ25)
Hi Andy,

Yes, I’ve been able to reproduce exactly what you’re describing.

In flight, I’m seeing a clear load-dependent change in oil temp indication. For example, in cruise the oil temp will sit at ~177°F. Turning on the landing lights bumps it up to ~184°F, and adding pitot heat pushes it up further toward ~190°F. The change is immediate and scales with load.

With the alternator off, I turned on both landing lights and pitot heat (about an 11A load) and the oil temp stayed completely stable—no change at all. When I brought the alternator back online, the oil temp jumped up significantly (approaching ~210°F+ briefly) and then settled back down.

That seems to strongly point to something associated with alternator current flow rather than the sensor itself.

For what it’s worth, this is the older Van's single-wire oil temp sender, so your point about it not being a thermocouple is correct. Given that, the behavior makes more sense, any voltage difference between the engine and the G3X reference ground is going to show up as a change in indicated temperature.

I’ve checked all the grounds and continuity looks good, and I also tried adding a direct ground from the GEA 24 to the engine with no change. At this point I’m leaning toward a small voltage drop somewhere in the return path under alternator load, or possibly some alternator induced noise affecting the measurement.

Your description of the engine metal voltage shifting relative to the G3X reference ground under load lines up very well with what I’m seeing.

I’m planning to take some millivolt measurements between engine case and GEA ground under different load conditions to see if that correlates with the temperature shift.

Definitely interested to hear what you find on your end as well, it sounds like we’re chasing the same thing from two different installations.


Greg
7A - New Orleans
 
Hi Andy,

Yes, I’ve been able to reproduce exactly what you’re describing.

In flight, I’m seeing a clear load-dependent change in oil temp indication. For example, in cruise the oil temp will sit at ~177°F. Turning on the landing lights bumps it up to ~184°F, and adding pitot heat pushes it up further toward ~190°F. The change is immediate and scales with load.

With the alternator off, I turned on both landing lights and pitot heat (about an 11A load) and the oil temp stayed completely stable—no change at all. When I brought the alternator back online, the oil temp jumped up significantly (approaching ~210°F+ briefly) and then settled back down.

That seems to strongly point to something associated with alternator current flow rather than the sensor itself.

For what it’s worth, this is the older Van's single-wire oil temp sender, so your point about it not being a thermocouple is correct. Given that, the behavior makes more sense, any voltage difference between the engine and the G3X reference ground is going to show up as a change in indicated temperature.

I’ve checked all the grounds and continuity looks good, and I also tried adding a direct ground from the GEA 24 to the engine with no change. At this point I’m leaning toward a small voltage drop somewhere in the return path under alternator load, or possibly some alternator induced noise affecting the measurement.

Your description of the engine metal voltage shifting relative to the G3X reference ground under load lines up very well with what I’m seeing.

I’m planning to take some millivolt measurements between engine case and GEA ground under different load conditions to see if that correlates with the temperature shift.

Definitely interested to hear what you find on your end as well, it sounds like we’re chasing the same thing from two different installations.


Greg
7A - New Orleans
Yup - the alternator increases the buss voltage - feed that into Ohm's law, and with the RTD type oil temp sender, and it all kind of makes sense...

As an aside - sorry for the thread drift - engine case grounding is going to make a difference.

Your typical lycoming engine case is comprised of 4 big pieces (Left half, Right half, Intake Sump, Accessory Case), all sealed with silicone and held together with a combination of bolts/studs, washers and nuts, and each with some kind of resistive load attached to it (e.g. Starter - LH, Alternator - RD, Standby alternator - accy case, oil temp probe - accy case, MAP probe - sump, and so on). The ground path betwixt all is the bolts, star washers, plain washers and nuts.

Ideal grounding would be from a point on each of the 4 large pieces, back to the firewall. However, In practice, a large wire (2ga) matching the gauge of the cohort supply, is connected to the lug on the case half that holds the starter -- some go so far as to connect this wire directly to the starter mounting bolts -- since that is the highest current circuit and most sensitive to voltage drop.

-break-

Back to the OP's issue and possibly being a ground/voltage reference problem, running a grounding wire from the accessory case (where the oil pressure sender is located) back to the firewall should be sufficient to resolve...Or give us another rabbit to chase :)
 
Old school E.I. Inc. OPT-1 on my -4 sometimes jumps from good oil temp range to briefly flash a 240F oil temp red light then immediately return to lower oil temps readings. Could never quite pin down the cause then on a night flight the other day (rare for me as a primarily daytime only flyer) I realized it's illuminating when clicking the PTT for position calls in the pattern.

Chasing that rabbit next time I access the avionics bay. 🐰
 
Old school E.I. Inc. OPT-1 on my -4 sometimes jumps from good oil temp range to briefly flash a 240F oil temp red light then immediately return to lower oil temps readings. Could never quite pin down the cause then on a night flight the other day (rare for me as a primarily daytime only flyer) I realized it's illuminating when clicking the PTT for position calls in the pattern.

Chasing that rabbit next time I access the avionics bay. 🐰
Not uncommon - Does the EI "show" a temperature excursion (EI actually sees/records the OT as 240F) or is it just the red light?
 
Yup - the alternator increases the buss voltage - feed that into Ohm's law, and with the RTD type oil temp sender, and it all kind of makes sense...
Kinda.. You would expect the GEA to have a stable reference voltage to the RTD. It's going to see all sorts of input voltage fluctuations plus supporting 12 and 24v systems is built in. I guess it's possible a bit of voltage is getting leaked into the sensor circuit somewhere?
 
I suspect the GEA has a very stable voltage output for sensors regardless of system voltage since differences on the scale we are talking about (alternator online/offline) could cause massive sensor error. In the case of these VDO single wire sensors their ground path is not directly back to the GEA and may be affected by loads. That I believe is the problem.

Greg, what you are seeing is pretty much exactly what we are seeing...

Alternator off: temps what we expect based on other sensors, and unaffected by loads
Alternator on: temps jump immediately. The higher the baseline temp the higher the jump (it's not noticeable if engine not warmed up), and readings are further affected upwards by adding loads.

Quick update from this end is that I spent a few hours trying to improve grounding by cleaning up and tightening alternator mounting points, ground strap contact points, and confirming the GEA24 was property grounded. I did see some marginal improvement measuring resistances to battery (-) with a meter, but unfortunately none of it actually fixed the sensor issue. I've read that multimeters are not great at detecting low resistances though? One or two more things to try but sort of grasping now. We might try a different alternator at some point.

One thing I have not tried yet is to jumper the sensor body directly to the GEA ground pin for that sensor input. Just need to figure out a way to fasten a wire to it safely so will try that soon and report back.

A word of warning... If/when you are contemplating replacing this "stock" sensor (we were) be careful - we had an extra sensor mounted in a spare part we weren't using and when we tried to unscrew it it was stuck and ultimately broke with not much torque. The walls of the probe aren't very thick. Luckily this didn't happen on the actual airplane - then it would be stuck in there and it would not be fun to get it out.

So in light of both of these things, we're not going to attempt to replace the sensor and will live with the issue in the near term as we troubleshoot grounding some more. We have several other sensors (OBDII and some other custom temp sensors) to cross check temperature when we question the reading from this problematic one.

Btw ours is installed in a coolant radiator with some sort of sealant that might be binding it (was also present on the test sensor that broke), and it's possible there could be some corrosion making it stick as well. So being that yours is for oil not coolant it might not be so prone to breaking, but watch out!

Andy
 
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