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F1 Progress - Glass, glass, glass……

Ironflight

VAF Moderator / Line Boy
Mentor
What our avocation needs is a “Fiberglass Man With a Van” - someone who will show up at your shop with a van that has a compressor, guns, hoses, inflatable spay booth, and all of the supplies necessary to make an RV’s fiberglas parts “paint ready”. Just give the guy a place to sleep, feed them, and write a check for their time when they’re done - then you can spray the plane yourself or have someone like John Stahr come by and paint the plane that is ready to go. Just an idea for someone looking to start up a business…..😉

When I finished my RV-8 over twenty years ago, I spent better than a month getting all the pinholes filled and the parts as good as I could before taiking the plane to the paint shop. I was naive….Grady at GLO Custom said “Oh…we can fix all that - we were going to do it anyway - its part of the paint job!” And his work was excellent! When we took the RV-3 there years later, the only thing we had done was fit the parts to the airframe - other tan that , the glass was just as it came out of the box - I had learned…. These days, paint shops spend many, many…many…hours gettign your glass ready for paint - its a lot of what you pay for. But there are places that will just shoot color on “paint ready” parts if you can get them that way.

But I digress - the F1 is coming together - I took almost a month off to do some traveling, and the last week I have been hitting the fiberglass hard to get ti ready for Mr. Stahr next month. Fill, sand, fill, sand….prime. Swear…then fill, sand, prime….. Here are the big parts almost done, sittign on the floor next to the airframe:

IMG_8880.jpeg

Not shown - wheel pants, gear leg fairings, and upper/lower intersection fairings. Those are mostly done - just another week’s worth of fitting and finishing…maybe….

If it weren’t for all this fiberglas, I could throw this thing on the scales, do a weight and balance, and get an inspector here next week! Nope - a DAR can’t do his own airplane….. but my FSDO’s got me covered!
 
What our avocation needs is a “Fiberglass Man With a Van” - someone who will show up at your shop with a van that has a compressor, guns, hoses, inflatable spay booth, and all of the supplies necessary to make an RV’s fiberglas parts “paint ready”. Just give the guy a place to sleep, feed them, and write a check for their time when they’re done - then you can spray the plane yourself or have someone like John Stahr come by and paint the plane that is ready to go. Just an idea for someone looking to start up a business…..😉

When I finished my RV-8 over twenty years ago, I spent better than a month getting all the pinholes filled and the parts as good as I could before taiking the plane to the paint shop. I was naive….Grady at GLO Custom said “Oh…we can fix all that - we were going to do it anyway - its part of the paint job!” And his work was excellent! When we took the RV-3 there years later, the only thing we had done was fit the parts to the airframe - other tan that , the glass was just as it came out of the box - I had learned…. These days, paint shops spend many, many…many…hours gettign your glass ready for paint - its a lot of what you pay for. But there are places that will just shoot color on “paint ready” parts if you can get them that way.

But I digress - the F1 is coming together - I took almost a month off to do some traveling, and the last week I have been hitting the fiberglass hard to get ti ready for Mr. Stahr next month. Fill, sand, fill, sand….prime. Swear…then fill, sand, prime….. Here are the big parts almost done, sittign on the floor next to the airframe:

View attachment 115091

Not shown - wheel pants, gear leg fairings, and upper/lower intersection fairings. Those are mostly done - just another week’s worth of fitting and finishing…maybe….

If it weren’t for all this fiberglas, I could throw this thing on the scales, do a weight and balance, and get an inspector here next week! Nope - a DAR can’t do his own airplane….. but my FSDO’s got me covered!
When i am doing my fiberglass work and think it is finally ready for painting I spray paint it with the cheapest flat black rattle can paint I can buy. After it is painted and dried I wipe it all off with lacquer thinner. That's when I can see all the pin holes that I missed. Then I attempt to fill them again and then repeat the process. I find it makes it a lot easier to find the pin holes.
 
Very nice, Paul. My RV8 could have used a little more love on the composite stuff before painting. The builder was an old school guy and did it all himself- so the while the airplane is quite well built, the composite work isn't perfect and thus it shows. I'm hoping to soon be able to give this airplane the kind of finish it deserves, and I've been asking around about how much composite work these shops do- you can see from the shop's finished aircraft photos that canopy skirts, tips, cowlings all look perfect and I'm doubtful the owners deliver them to the paint shop that way.

I did my share of composite work repairing and painting motorcycle bodywork- and I'm over it- Norman gives us a good tip- as every time you think it's perfect the first coat shows what you missed!

What you need is a surfboard guy- check out Lord of the Dings on Instagram- if you could get him to come to your shop you'd be set! You live out west somewhere, don't you?

 
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Very nice, Paul. My RV8 could have used a little more love on the composite stuff before painting. The builder was an old school guy and did it all himself- so the while the airplane is quite well built, the composite work isn't perfect and thus it shows. I'm hoping to soon be able to give this airplane the kind of finish it deserves, and I've been asking around about how much composite work these shops do- you can see from the shop's finished aircraft photos that canopy skirts, tips, cowlings all look perfect and I'm doubtful the owners deliver them to the paint shop that way.

I did my share of composite work repairing and painting motorcycle bodywork- and I'm over it- Norman gives us a good tip- as every time you think it's perfect the first coat shows what you missed!

What you need is a surfboard guy- check out Lord of the Dings on Instagram- if you could get him to come to your shop you'd be set! You live out west somewhere, don't you?

Paul does have a novel idea, a traveling fiberglass guru. Similar to other specialty trades. Problem isnt doing the work, its the logistics involved. Truck and trailer, maybe even a toy hauler for the living quarters and shop area. For the client, the travel rate could get out of hand, in addition to the work involved.
 
Paul does have a novel idea, a traveling fiberglass guru. Similar to other specialty trades. Problem isnt doing the work, its the logistics involved. Truck and trailer, maybe even a toy hauler for the living quarters and shop area. For the client, the travel rate could get out of hand, in addition to the work involved.
More good reasons for trying to convince a surfboard repair guy to come out. They are used to living in vans! Motivation might be a problem, considering their choices of relaxation activities, though. And the general lack of water near airports.
 
I used Midwest Aircraft Refinishing in Hibbing , MN when I built my RV-8 and they fill all the pin holes etc. They do not even want you to try to fill anything or they will remove all your work so they can use the system they trust. I was impressed with the quality. It's just another option.
 
As long as the fiberglass parts fit the plane and just finish work is needed, another option is to just load up the parts and find an auto body repair shop (a restoration shop may do more fiberglass work) or marine repair shop. Those boat guys can make some awfully pretty fiberglass parts.
 
As a retired surfboard/windsurfer repair guy... I did all the repair work for all of the shops and manufactures in windsurfing's heyday back in the late '80's up until the late 1900's around San Francisco Bay. Then reality slapped me in the face and I went and got a real job....

I didn't do nearly the amount of pinhole filling compared to what I had to do on the body of my Factory Five cobra replica. I spent months filling a fairing that thing.

Norman's idea of using black spray paint and lacquer thinner is brilliant. As long as it doesn't remove any fillers that were already put down.

The best technique for me was a good thin polyester glazing compound. Mix up small batches. squeegee it on aggressively before it starts to set up. Don't let it build up on the surface. You just want to work it into the holes. Otherwise you just make more work for yourself. If you don't work it into the holes, they'll be there when you sand the filler off.

A lot of light is also critical to see what you're doing.

You may be able to find a good person at a body shop near by that wants to go for plane rides. you can swap time with him....
 
I did the fiberglass on my RV8 and I had to go through all the learning process, but I finally found that the best way for it to get done is using SuperFil epoxy filler for the larger imperfections and then roll on Polyfiber Smooth Prime with a 4" foam roller sand with 320 grit paper prime and sand with a high build primer and when it looks good I would spray with a coat of Stewart's Epoxy primer....forget using micro in my opinion. My painter loved how good the fglass was and did very little glass work touch up before paint was shot! And that was after flying it fo a year before paint.
 
What our avocation needs is a “Fiberglass Man With a Van” - someone who will show up at your shop with a van that has a compressor, guns, hoses, inflatable spay booth, and all of the supplies necessary to make an RV’s fiberglas parts “paint ready”.
It's telling that you can find plenty of people willing to make you a panel and do your wiring (who would outsource that? It's the fun part!), but nobody wants to do your fiberglass...
 
I did the fiberglass on my RV8 and I had to go through all the learning process, but I finally found that the best way for it to get done is using SuperFil epoxy filler for the larger imperfections and then roll on Polyfiber Smooth Prime with a 4" foam roller sand with 320 grit paper prime and sand with a high build primer and when it looks good I would spray with a coat of Stewart's Epoxy primer....forget using micro in my opinion.

SuperFil is expensive pre-mixed micro.
 
I did the fiberglass on my RV8 and I had to go through all the learning process, but I finally found that the best way for it to get done is using SuperFil epoxy filler for the larger imperfections and then roll on Polyfiber Smooth Prime with a 4" foam roller sand with 320 grit paper prime and sand with a high build primer and when it looks good I would spray with a coat of Stewart's Epoxy primer....forget using micro in my opinion. My painter loved how good the fglass was and did very little glass work touch up before paint was shot! And that was after flying it fo a year before paint.
SuperFil is expensive pre-mixed micro.
Probably by flying it for a year first you got the pin holes filled with bug guts!
 
SuperFil is expensive pre-mixed micro.

No doubt…….but the convenience of mixing a quick 20 grams to fix a small flaw is worth it! I agree for large areas needing work micro batches would be better but that’s a different matter all together. I find that micro isn’t a great pinhole filler anyway that’s why so many people try and get some polyester filler go over the micro to lessen the pinholes. I don’t slather on Superfil like one would micro…..or mix a cup and throw out half of it…..so yup Superfil is very convenient……for slathering its micro…. For pinholes it’s Smooth Prime🤷‍♂️
 
I find that micro isn’t a great pinhole filler anyway that’s why so many people try and get some polyester filler go over the micro to lessen the pinholes.

Micro is definitely not a pinhole filler. It's a pinhole producer, by nature. When sanded, the hollow microballoons at the surface are cut open, plus it's impossible to not entrain air bubbles when mixing. Micro (and SuperFil) is used for surface imperfections and contour change.

I'll never use a polyester product over epoxy or epoxy/micro. A straight epoxy skim has greater impact and peel resistance.

Caveat; the recent glass from Vans has a molded-in-place polyester gel coat. Polyester on polyester does make some sense.

For pinholes it’s Smooth Prime🤷‍♂️

It's ok in terms of finish. The application process (squeegee a coat, then roll on additional coats) is the same as an epoxy skim, but takes longer to cure. Sands about the same.

Akzo Nobel 28C1 would give good pinhole results on gel coated parts, and requires no sanding at all. Any epoxy sealing could be limited to areas with a contour change, i.e. over micro or SuperFil.
 
Every time I'm doing exterior fiberglass finishing work, I hear Dan whispering in my ear "clear candy coating"...
 
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