EZ-OUT (el Brutus Jr.)

[HFS]

A while back, there was a posting about the difficulties in removing "cammed out" Phillips head (or other "cross hatched" configuration) screws where there is an adjacent (<8" separation) screw that can be used as an "anchor" for a fulcrum arm to be used as an down force enhancer to assist in the successful (hopefully) removal of the offending screw.

The el Brutus tool was highlighted as a (possible) solution to this dilemma ... Except, it was really made for bigger (read commercial) use & was pretty pricey. Looked like a DIY project to me - so for about $10 & a bit of "elbow grease" I came up with the "Jr" tool shown below. Mine is sized to 6, 8 & 10 screws - with an 8" span.

All the above is good and well for a "project", but really how many times in our service/maintenance lives do we need something so "universal" as EZ-OUT - the real answer is probably never. But a tool made on the spot for the "onesies & twosies" that come along once in a while makes more sense, so ...

Since the basis for these tools is a simple lever arm, why not make one for the specific need at the time, i.e. tank screw that refuses to come out, especially after "buggering" up the head? A lever arm with (two) hole spacing equal to the nearest removed screw and the one to be removed, with the appropriate attachment mechanisms - "anchor" screw on the open, threaded hole & 1/4" hex socket for the JIS bit, at the other location that can be actuated by an appropriate ratcheting device. Once installed, apply as much down pressure on the "handle" as is needed, prior to using the ratchet to (hopefully) break the screw loose, to be removed. Only envisioned as a much simpler solution to a very seldom faced problem.

HFS

YMMV - But either of these ways will probably work.

 

[Norman CYYJ]

A while back, there was a posting about the difficulties in removing "cammed out" Phillips head (or other "cross hatched" configuration) screws where there is an adjacent (<8" separation) screw that can be used as an "anchor" for a fulcrum arm to be used as an down force enhancer to assist in the successful (hopefully) removal of the offending screw.

The el Brutus tool was highlighted as a (possible) solution to this dilemma ... Except, it was really made for bigger (read commercial) use & was pretty pricey. Looked like a DIY project to me - so for about $10 & a bit of "elbow grease" I came up with the "Jr" tool shown below. Mine is sized to 6, 8 & 10 screws - with an 8" span.

All the above is good and well for a "project", but really how many times in our service/maintenance lives do we need something so "universal" as EZ-OUT - the real answer is probably never. But a tool made on the spot for the "onesies & twosies" that come along once in a while makes more sense, so ...

Since the basis for these tools is a simple lever arm, why not make one for the specific need at the time, i.e. tank screw that refuses to come out, especially after "buggering" up the head? A lever arm with (two) hole spacing equal to the nearest removed screw and the one to be removed, with the appropriate attachment mechanisms - "anchor" screw on the open, threaded hole & 1/4" hex socket for the JIS bit, at the other location that can be actuated by an appropriate ratcheting device. Once installed, apply as much down pressure on the "handle" as is needed, prior to using the ratchet to (hopefully) break the screw loose, to be removed. Only envisioned as a much simpler solution to a very seldom faced problem.

HFS

YMMV - But either of these ways will probably work.

I like using an electric drill with the appropriate screw driver bit. Set the tension on the drill motor to light and gradually increase it but don't let it slip, let the hammering action loosen the screw.

 

[HFS]

EZ-OUT (el Brutus) - One Time Use ...

On my last post re/EZ-OUT I referred to a "one time" use version. Attached is one showing just that - 4" between screw centers, with one screw removed and the other resisting same (from "camming" out the Phillips screw head). Much simpler, but the same principle of using a lever arm to put down force on the offending screw. To make it even simpler, you don't even need to use a solid rod at the "connection" end, even a length of safety wire, wrapped around a partially removed screw and & attached to the lever arm will do ...

HFS

 

[SPB W10]

EZ-OUT (el Brutus) - One Time Use ...

On my last post re/EZ-OUT I referred to a "one time" use version. Attached is one showing just that - 4" between screw centers, with one screw removed and the other resisting same (from "camming" out the Phillips screw head). Much simpler, but the same principle of using a lever arm to put down force on the offending screw. To make it even simpler, you don't even need to use a solid rod at the "connection" end, even a length of safety wire, wrapped around a partially removed screw and & attached to the lever arm will do ...

HFS

All good information. In reality some screws are removed and reinstalled and get compromised. So a new bit and some valve grinding compound in the Apex will give you one chance to remove the screw. If it gets stripped out in the head or camed out then you are on the next step of drilling and using the lever arm to remove the screw. Good luck.
Steven B

 

[rocketbob]

I've used a similar tool to remove remove the stress panels on a P-51 which are the skins below the fuel tanks. Hundreds of #8 screws.