Anyone have any experience with this? No reviews on the product page.
https://www.flyboyaccessories.com/Poor-Man-s-Cold-Air-Induction-System-p/2107.htm
https://www.flyboyaccessories.com/Poor-Man-s-Cold-Air-Induction-System-p/2107.htm
Off topic, but important:
At my current annual inspection, I found that one of my silicone spark plug leads (Taylor Spiro-Pro 8mm) had burned through to the core. it had been run nearby an exhaust pipe, similar to the routing you are using. All of the other wire leads that were run across the exhaust pipes had been discolored. There were no operational problems, but failure was likely. 130 hours. A cursory inspection did not show the burn-through, just discolorization. I had to bend the discolored areas slightly to find the problem.
I am replacing all of the affected leads (3 on my IO-540) and rerouting them.
Also I think Tom Swearingen (TS Flightlines) will have something to say about firesleeving on oil lines, but I will leave that to the experts.
most people don't like to coat exhaust because of the "can't weld repair it" logic
i say coat it, if you get a crack, replace it
There are many "ceramic" products out there ranging from tapes to paints to baked coatings.
To generalize and say that you can remove the ceramic coating and weld normally is a stretch. That may be the case with your specific product but not the case with others.
What product did you use?
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I'm just curious... if you're gonna wrap something, why not wrap or treat the exhaust? It will keep *everything* around cool, and retains the heat in the exhaust. That's supposed to be good for scavenging.
I guess that the exhaust pipes also have a temperature limit and should be cooled by the air flow. If you wrap the exhaust pipes they could get out of that limit.
A Lycoming is not going to operate anywhere near 1700, so even with 100% effective insulation the pipes will remain well within their comfort zone.
That said, some here have experienced failures with wrapped/coated exhaust and some of us have no issues. So who knows?
Typical EGT's can easily reach 1400-1500 2" down the pipe where the probe is located, so easy to imagine we're getting pretty close to 1700.
most people don't like to coat exhaust because of the "can't weld repair it" logic
i say coat it, if you get a crack, replace it
Interesting. Vetterman specifically told me he wouldn?t weld a ceramic coated pipe and that coating the pipe would void his warranty.
As others have said probably depends on the ceramic coating. Don?t think the stuff in a can from Home Depot would be a problem. A true baked on industrial ceramic coating could be very problematic.
Welding difficulty is gettin' far from Flyboy intake wraps...I'm just sayin'
Coating discussion tends toward unsupported temperature claims.
Let's quantify.
Anyone have actual values (emissivity, absorptivity, reflectivity, transmissivity, etc) for any of these coatings?
Fair is fair. Vince, what do you have for the wrap?