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Cowling for the IO-390 EXP 119 on the RV-8

Hello, I'm installing an IO-390 - EXP 119 engine in an RV-8, and the kit cowling doesn't align at all.

I'm having a lot of trouble with the fiberglass, and I've made several modifications.

Has anyone successfully installed this engine in an RV-8 and could provide guidance on the cowling?
What modifications do I need to make, and which Van's kit should I use for this engine?

Tks!
 

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There are several different cowls available for the RV-8 depending on the engine you use. From your pictures, it looks like the cowl you have is fairly old?

There is a cowl for the RV-8 made to fit the Angle Valve IO-360, and that cowl will fit the IO-390 as well, the external dimensions are the same.

Also, Brian's comments above on the order of operations is important. First you fit the cowl around the engine with no cooling baffles at all on the engine. Then you put the baffles on and trim the baffles down to fit to the inside of the cowl. You should not have to modify the cowl to fit the baffles.

On the angle valve engines (IO-360-Axx, IO-390) the cowl comes very close to the upper front corner of the left front cylinder (cyl #2) and the baffle gets trimmed down very low to fit. But it does fit.
 
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What Steve said.

Cowl starting point should be the COWL,8 TOP & COWL,8 BOT. IO-360.

Sequence is going to be important :
Hang the engine first, with all the accessories (prop gov, intake servo, mags, etc.)
Install the propeller & spinner
Setup the cowl halves and install to airframe.
Install the baffle metal pieces.
Install the induction system.
Adjust/Cut the metal pieces as you go, the baffle rubber will be the last thing to install.

I'd consider cobbling together the BAF-8-IO360 kit and the BAF-14-IO390 EXP119 kits.
 
Start by ordering a new upper cowl. I'm good with glass, but I would not consider attempting to save the one you have. Too many structural issues. Don't underestimate the magnitude of the pressure on that balloon.

As noted, when fitting an angle valve in the -8, there will be almost no baffle wall above the front cylinders. In fact, you might try moving the left baffle wall to the inside of the mount ears.

It's possible to remove a limited area of inner cowl surface ply and honeycomb above the tightest spot, and lay new plies with no honeycomb core.
 
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