No tail wheel steering

[pmona]

I just picked up a RV-6 which is difficult to taxi, especially if there is any wind. The tail wheel is 100% free castering. It seems to me there should be some sort of clutch in the fork to provide directional control. If I lift the tail by hand, I can spin the tail wheel around with no resistance.
Does this require a new fork or is there another fix?

 

[AZSteve053]

There should be a locking function on your tail wheel for sure, it's implemented with a spring loaded pin in the tail wheel pivot bearing top just below the steering arm. The pins DO stick if not cleaned & lubed periodically, the pins do wear out occasionally & are easily replaced. The pins and springs are cheap and readily available.
I attached a Dwg from RV-7 but 6 is the same.

 

[pmona]

There should be a locking function on your tail wheel for sure, it's implemented with a spring loaded pin in the tail wheel pivot bearing top just below the steering arm. The pins DO stick if not cleaned & lubed periodically, the pins do wear out occasionally & are easily replaced. The pins and springs are cheap and readily available.

Thank you, I just watched a video for the Doug Bell from Flyboy site and see what you are saying. I think the previous owner flew it like this for many years. I’ll disassemble and inspect.

 

[pylet2000]

Congrats on the 6! I picked up an RV6 that had a slightly balky locking mechanism, and had to get educated on how to service this item.

It sounds like the tailwheel lock mechanism is stuck in the free caster position. The setup isn't complicated, and the VAF website has lots of great detailed writeups of how to service the tailwheel assembly using the search function. This YouTube video is also a great quick guide:

I would very quickly look into disassembling the tailwheel control assembly and cleaning everything. Flying it in full caster mode is adding unnecessary ground loop risk. Assess the condition of the pin and the notch in the control arm for wear / burrs. You might just need to clean, degrease, and reassemble.

Cleaning / inspecting / lubricating this tailwheel system is maintenance that should be done often. I aim to do this at least twice a year.

 

[JonJay]

There is an off chance it is a full castering, non-stearavle,, non-locking tailwheel. Some early RV’s may be outfitted this way requiring differential braking to turn while taxiing.
The auto locking mechanism of the standard Vans tailwheel and aftermarket products, when properly maintained are nice in comparison. However, if you have ever operated a manual lockable, steerable, full castering tailwheel, they are the cats meow!

 

[Webb]

Make sure the pin doesn’t have a burr on it which can cause it to stick.

 

[fixnflyguy]

The original tailwheel set-up on RV3,4,and 6 has a fully castering wheel, with no locks or mechanism. The rudder cables will wrap around it pushed backwards. In my opinion, its the best set-up you can have for positive steering, and will never have a "break out" that can lead to novice ground looping. I still fly with my legacy tailwheel, and likely will never change, even know I have a new full swivel (with breakover) on the shelf. I avoid pushing my plane backwards, which is a deal breaker for some. I would imagine, this is what you have on your -6.

 

[fixnflyguy]

See if it looks like this. I have flown mine with the chains off, and it is "sporty". If you have the stinger spring with a bent downward end, you have a legacy free spinning like mine.

 

[olyolson]

Don’t know what your tailwheel looks like but sounds like you need to replace the locking pin & spring which you can get from Flyboys Accessories:

Locking Pin and Spring

The locking pin and spring are wear parts of the tailwheel assembly. Eventually, they wear out and have to be replaced, or they accidentally get shot across the hangar and lost during maintenance. Order one here. Fits Screaming Eagle, Doug Bell, Van's, JDAir, and similar tailwheels using a 1/4"...

flyboyaccessories.com

 

[JonJay]

See if it looks like this. I have flown mine with the chains off, and it is "sporty". If you have the stinger spring with a bent downward end, you have a legacy free spinning like mine.

The chains prevent if from being full castering, as you note here. This is a steerable, non-lockable set up. Yes, very smooth nice taxi characteristics, However, a properly maintained, and set up, Vans locking tailwheel should perform exactly the same except at the extremes. Break out should be a non issue if set up properly.

Like I mentioned, full castering, manual lockable, gives you best of both worlds but I’ve never seen one on an RV. It requires an actuator cable and is more complex than a spring and pin.
Diving further into the tailwheel weeds, I have seen an additional element with a “unlock” lockout requiring the throttle to be at idle to unlock the tailwheel. Stupid and even more complex.

 

[pmona]

My tailwheel has a control arm, no chains. I disassembled and cleaned it today. The lock pin was seized in the shaft. After cleaning, I was able to push it out with a small drift and then get everything cleaned and lubed. This looks like an original Vans fork, using a bronze bushing. It seems to be working now, but I plan on replacing the entire assembly soon with something like the JD Air fork and control link.

 

[PhatRV]

I had the same issue with the tail wheel caster on my RV8. The key slide and the slot are not machined very cleanly. I used the jeweler file to clean up the burr on the entrance of the key slot. I hone the key slide with 320 grit sand paper to smooth out the 90 degree edges which should allow it to move freely inside the key slot. After this, I don't have any more issue with the wheel caster, other than cleaning and lubing the assembly at condition inspection.