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Won't debate the use of the block but connector(s) would have been easier IMO. If you stick with this approach, the screws should have some locking device as they are in blind holes.
I don't have space to attach the wings and leave them on before I haul everything to the airport. I wanted to be able to finish as much wiring as possible at home and not have to pull wire down the road. That's the only reason I'm using a connection point. I thought about using butt splices or solder sleeves. I can't say that I had any strong rationale for choosing terminal blocks over them - I just had a few spare blocks sitting around and figured they would work fine.
Spade connectors are quicker and make a superior mechanical and conductive connection.
I used Goop: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CCID28/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I’ve used lots of these terminal blocks in my wiring setup over the years with no problems. However, putting that small screw and lock washer through a ring terminal in a difficult to reach area can be a challenge. Then I discovered these (below). Make sure you connect the spade ‘Wing’ with lock washers to the terminal block (before installing the terminal block where you want it.
www.steinair.com
I agree, terminal blocks are fine for lights and misc stuff, stick switches etc. but never for 'signal' or low-level stuff though.
Can you elaborate for me just so I understand the rationale of why they may not be okay for signal wires (ex: using it for ALL wiring coming from the wings, which would include the autopilot servo). If it's that bad, I could pull those wires from the terminal block and just throw on a dsub connector for the AP.
Because even small amounts of resistance from connections can cause problems
That may be the case on a new aircraft. However the practice would be considered unprofessional. You don't see this on a certified aircraft.
I have seen MANY spade connectors that had corrosion, and the contact force from a terminal connection can easily exceed that of a traditional spade connection.
There're lots of good comments and discussion above and the only additional thought is to ensure that there are drain holes in the belly at appropriate locations and also to seal the seam within the wing root area where the fuselage sides and belly skin meet up. Water can otherwise leak in past the wing root fairings and run into the cockpit floor and the terminal block should naturally be kept dry.
I have kind of debated this with myself. On the one hand it is nice for a wire not to flop around. On the other hand I like things to fail in an clearly obvious fashion. A loose screw on a ring terminal could be hard to find. Sometimes the circuit works, sometimes it doesn't. With a fork style terminal when it falls out it will be obvious. I still haven't decided which is better.
I did the same. Pre-wiring all the possible stick button functions I could think of (10) on the terminal block allows me to easily change a button function (4). I’ve done it twice.
Agree 100% with the pain and frustration of trying to troubleshoot intermittent electrical problems. I blame most of my alcoholism on it!
However sparks from an important wire shorting, or contacting another important wire, especially when electronics are involved can be a very bad thing. There are many relatively recent vehicle and utv recalls related to wires and fires.
