ACS Engine Control Cable Pireps? Other Sources?

[DanH]

Working on an RV-8 with two near-frozen push-pull cables, the usual overheated green ones from Vans.

Priced McFarlane...$1150 for two cables with no knobs. I like their stuff, but *#@&!

Who is using ACS cables? Any pireps after 500 hours?

Other sources? Push-pull cables are common, and quality is where you find it.

 

[Toobuilder]

I use ACS cables exclusively. Replaced the mix and prop on the RV-8 with them and they were flawless at 300 hours. Have ACS prop on the Rocket - 600 hrs no issues. Same with Hiperbipe... ~250 hrs.

 

[scsmith]

I found a company "Custom Control Cables" (cccables.com), and they gave me a really reasonable quote on a cable for manual elevator trim, custom length. But I have not seen it yet, it might be that they are the makers of the green ones? I don't know. Since it is for an elevator trim, I don't mind either way. Worth looking into, anyway.

Yes the McFarlane cables are expensive, but you install them once, and that's it. not having to do that job again is worth a lot to me.

 

[Lancair Super ES]

I had ACS cables in my Lancair. 425 hours when I recently sold it. Worked great with no issues. I have a set of new cables to match (duplicate shipment). They need the rubber parts replaced with the new silicone parts.

They can be cut down as needed.

Email me at [email protected] for pics or questions. Plus shipping at cost.

Gordon

ACS Prop cable A-750-30-0600 60" Blue vernier new			140		70
ACS Throttle cable A-800BL-0600 60" Black new			150		80
ACS Mixture cable A-750-20-0600 60" Red vernier new			159		80

 

[titanhank]

Cablecraft Engineered Motion Controls | Cablecraft

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cablecraft.com

I order them custom from cable craft houston tx. They manufacture the green jacket throttle and trim cables on the rocket and my rv8. The cable ordering guide is on the website.

 

[hanginbythebelts]

+1 for https://cablecraft.com I have used them on several planes and have been please with quality & service

 

[pilotkms]

Mcfarlane .
Over 7 years and 1400+ hours. Smooth as silk. Infinitely adjustable. No panel lettering required.

 

[Ironflight]

We’ve had A-920’s in the RV-3 for 13 years and almost 900 hours of flying now - never a single problem….unlike the green ones in the RV-8 that got replaced several times. Note that the 920’s use a different way to capture the cable housing at each end, so you need to do some custom work on brackets….

 

[Stevea]

ACS cables on all three...throttle, prop, mixture. ACS cables were what Van's was shipping (at least for the 6/7), way way way back when I purchased the firewall forward kit. Coming up on 1400 hours, all work fine. Prop and mixture have a vernier/push-pull control on them. The throttle is standard push-pull.

 

[DanH]

We’ve had A-920’s in the RV-3 for 13 years and almost 900 hours of flying now - never a single problem….unlike the green ones in the RV-8 that got replaced several times. Note that the 920’s use a different way to capture the cable housing at each end, so you need to do some custom work on brackets….

ACS A-1550 cables are threaded for 7/16 bulkhead nuts, both ends. No knobs, the RV-8 setup.

Splurged on a new TIG machine. Brackets-R-Us!

 

[Ironflight]

ACS A-1550 cables are threaded for 7/16 bulkhead nuts, both ends. No knobs, the RV-8 setup.

Splurged on a new TIG machine. Brackets-R-Us!

Good to know! What I really like about the “nut-less” ones at the quadrant end is that they take up a lot less room, and are easy to work with. But I do like the nuts on the engine ends….

Always a compromise!

 

[JonJay]

Stock ACS.
17 years and 900+ hours. Prop cable as installed. Mixture and throttle changed out at about 500 hours, added heat shields where they pass near exhaust (+-2”)
Just checked them and they are still operating as new.
On my set up, it’s less than an hour to change out cables.

 

[scsmith]

We’ve had A-920’s in the RV-3 for 13 years and almost 900 hours of flying now - never a single problem….unlike the green ones in the RV-8 that got replaced several times. Note that the 920’s use a different way to capture the cable housing at each end, so you need to do some custom work on brackets….

How do you 'capture' the housing on an A-920? Some kind of clamp? I can't tell from the picture on ACS.

 

[Toobuilder]

How do you 'capture' the housing on an A-920? Some kind of clamp? I can't tell from the picture on ACS.

There is a smooth metal ferrule swaged on the ends. This ferrule has a machined groove about mid length that is intended to key into a slotted bracket. I use an adel clamp without the cushion to secure the ferrule. At the groove, I use a flat screwdriver to form an indent that keys into the depression and locks it in place. Takes about 10 seconds to make a perfect clamp.

 

[Ironflight]

How do you 'capture' the housing on an A-920? Some kind of clamp? I can't tell from the picture on ACS.

At the quadrant end, I make a three-slot “comb” out of angle that the slots in the cable drop into - then a screw-secured top to keep the cables from jumping out of the slots. At the engine end, ACS actually sells a little bracket to secure the slotted end….but once you see one, you can make your own.

 

[Mikeyb]

Liking this
The green vans one on my prop is intermittent after 2 years. It was frictionless when new and nowhere near any heat source

 

[Freemasm]

There is a smooth metal ferrule swaged on the ends. This ferrule has a machined groove about mid length that is intended to key into a slotted bracket. I use an adel clamp without the cushion to secure the ferrule. At the groove, I use a flat screwdriver to form an indent that keys into the depression and locks it in place. Takes about 10 seconds to make a perfect clamp.

At the quadrant end, I make a three-slot “comb” out of angle that the slots in the cable drop into - then a screw-secured top to keep the cables from jumping out of the slots. At the engine end, ACS actually sells a little bracket to secure the slotted end….but once you see one, you can make your own.

Judge me. I have non-aviation, commercial grade (zero temper) aluminum in my aircraft for the reasons stated above. Before anyone #@$s themselves, the associated structure deforms before the cheap aluminum does but feel free to judge me anyway. Will add a pic if I can find one on my phone.

Edit = pix added. No motivation for the control cables to migrate upward especially with such a tight slot; but, I'll run a piece of safety wire over the pair to be extra sure.
Edit2 = SCSmith was typing while I was editing. @S^2, see if the pix answer your questions. Obviously lots of ways to do this. Thought this one was pretty simple/elegant.

 

[scsmith]

At the quadrant end, I make a three-slot “comb” out of angle that the slots in the cable drop into - then a screw-secured top to keep the cables from jumping out of the slots. At the engine end, ACS actually sells a little bracket to secure the slotted end….but once you see one, you can make your own.

So I gather that the ferrule has slots cut perpendicular to the axis of the cable, not parallel like a keyway. Your bracket, or comb, is the right thickness and the slot is the right width so that the slots in the ferrule lock into the slot in the bracket. Then you just need something to close your bracket slot so the cable doesn't come out of the slot. Is that correct?

 

[RV7 To Go]

I have the ACS cables in my 7 with a quadrant. No issues in just under 800hrs. Still as smooth as when installed and so much less expensive than the others. They have the teflon liner but no covering over the spiral outer sleeve. I am using them again on my under construction 8.

 

[RV7 To Go]

So I gather that the ferrule has slots cut perpendicular to the axis of the cable, not parallel like a keyway. Your bracket, or comb, is the right thickness and the slot is the right width so that the slots in the ferrule lock into the slot in the bracket. Then you just need something to close your bracket slot so the cable doesn't come out of the slot. Is that correct?

Spruce sells a bracket for locking the end of the cable if you want to pay the price.

Slotted Bracket Control Mount #10465

 

[Freemasm]

Spruce sells a bracket for locking the end of the cable if you want to pay the price.

Slotted Bracket Control Mount #10465

Keep in mind they won’t work/can’t be installed as intended for close spacing without some creativity on the applier’s part.

 

[scsmith]

Keep in mind they won’t work/can’t be installed as intended for close spacing without some creativity on the applier’s part.

I think that's how Paul's "comb" works. You can cut the slots pretty close together, as long as the remaining portions are stiff enough to support the cable sheath.

 

[Ironflight]

So I gather that the ferrule has slots cut perpendicular to the axis of the cable, not parallel like a keyway. Your bracket, or comb, is the right thickness and the slot is the right width so that the slots in the ferrule lock into the slot in the bracket. Then you just need something to close your bracket slot so the cable doesn't come out of the slot. Is that correct?

Yes - mine look like FreeMasn’s pictures, but with three cables

 

[rocketbob]

Working on an RV-8 with two near-frozen push-pull cables, the usual overheated green ones from Vans.

I've restored push/pull cables by clamping a length of clear hose on the engine side. Fill the hose with penetrating oil, then cap off with an air fitting. Hook the air fitting up to a compression tester, turn it up a few psi and let the oil run out the other end. Obviously you'll need a pan under the other end to collect the oil.

 

[DanH]

Pirep...replacing standard green cables with ACS 1550 cables, threaded ends on the sheaths, no knobs, for an RV-8 quadrant. The key point? ACS cables are not a direct replacement.

Neither Aircraft Spruce or ACS publishes complete dimensions for the 1550 cables, only travel at 3.37". The only custom cable ordering dimension is overall length.

I ordered a set. Turns out the length of the swivel tube is 3-11/16", as compared to 2-11/16" for a green Vans cable. That puts the threaded tip a whole inch from where it needs to be. Or put another way, the support point for the sheath would need to be moved an inch further away from the connected device.

I have a call in to ACS to see if they make a 1550 with a 2-11/16" swivel tube, but at the moment I'm assuming no. So what to do?

Obviously I can make new brackets for the servo end, and move the sheath mounts at the quadrant. Plan B is shortening the threaded ends 1". Cutting and re-threading is easier than new mounting points. The green Vans cable measures as 2.25" travel, so lopping an inch off a 3.37" travel should work. Anyone done it?



Terrible sales drawing. The swivel tube looks short, but it's not.

 

[38f]

Pirep...replacing standard green cables with ACS 1550 cables, threaded ends on the sheaths, no knobs, for an RV-8 quadrant. The key point? ACS cables are not a direct replacement.

Neither Aircraft Spruce or ACS publishes complete dimensions for the 1550 cables, only travel at 3.37". The only custom cable ordering dimension is overall length.

I ordered a set. Turns out the length of the swivel tube is 3-11/16", as compared to 2-11/16" for a green Vans cable. That puts the threaded tip a whole inch from where it needs to be. Or put another way, the support point for the sheath would need to be moved an inch further away from the connected device.

I have a call in to ACS to see if they make a 1550 with a 2-11/16" swivel tube, but at the moment I'm assuming no. So what to do?

Obviously I can make new brackets for the servo end, and move the sheath mounts at the quadrant. Plan B is shortening the threaded ends 1". Cutting and re-threading is easier than new mounting points. The green Vans cable measures as 2.25" travel, so lopping an inch off a 3.37" travel should work. Anyone done it?

View attachment 74302

Terrible sales drawing. The swivel tube looks short, but it's no

 

[38f]

I had them make cables that are the same as the ones I got from vans
A little bit of a headache to order them but they have a cable shop made them to the same dimension of Vans

 

[eavila1]

I went with McFarlane custom built dimensions to install now. High quality and yes, expensive. By the time I estimated time to modify, create new brackets, etc...I figure the $1150 was worth it

 

[rv8ch]

Not that it helps, but my McFarlane custom cables were $205 each in 2013. I knew inflation was bad, but that's a big increase. They are working perfectly at about 300 hours.

 

[DanH]

I had them make cables that are the same as the ones I got from vans
A little bit of a headache to order them but they have a cable shop made them to the same dimension of Vans

Well, that looks like the best path forward. Simply shortening the tip won't do it; the swivel tube will still be too long to work with standard cable brackets or the existing quadrant setup.

 

[N49ex]

I went with McFarlane custom built dimensions to install now. High quality and yes, expensive. By the time I estimated time to modify, create new brackets, etc...I figure the $1150 was worth it

I'm glad to hear so many others have had no problems with their ACS cables, but I had my ACS throttle cable break at about 500 hours, during an instrument approach. Suddenly could not decrease power. But the power slowly crept down and it was clear I was going to land at that airport, modulated power with mixture on/off control, luckily otherwise uneventful landing, although taxiing with on/off power was a bit odd. Inner cable broke right back of where it is swaged into the solid end piece. That section slides inside a solid tube, so should not have seen any sheer, so I think it was poor manufacturing quality. Replaced all the cables with the McFarlane custom ones, and another 750 hours later, no problems. These look like a much higher quality construction.

 

[DanH]

Rest of the story...

I got in touch with Valerie at ACS Products. They are perfectly happy to make cables with a 2.25" stroke and the corresponding shorter swivel tube. They just need Aircraft Spruce to put the stroke request on the order. Unfortunately, nothing on the Spruce site asks or indicates about stroke options, so be aware...it's up to you to make sure. And be patient, because in my experience, the operator may not know how.

The magic dimension? A 2.25 stroke A-1550 measures 7.25" from the center of the sheath threads to the tip of the inner cable, when the inner is fully extended.

I also did some digging for other options. Turns out Cablecraft, the folks who make the familiar crappy green cable sold by Vans, also make a premium high temperature cable they call Blue Max. How high? Try 350F. IMHO, that's the one Vans should be selling.

You can order a Blue Max in any custom length, with 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 or 6" stroke, from Engineered Components, a Cablecraft assembler. They're in Three Bridges NJ, phone 908-788-8393. Current turn was quoted as two weeks. Price for 52 and 55" cables was about $265 each. If you order, give us a pirep.

 

[jrs14855]

ACS is a Spruce subsidiary located in Lake Havasu City AZ. Started years ago by the senior Irwin's who retired there. Current manager is John Irwin.
I have met John and he seems very willing to help people. I believe all the cables are made in house. A few other items are made by outside vendors.
My ACS cables are at 325 hours and working perfect.
I use a 2024 block drilled and reamed to 3/8 for the cable end. Slotted thru the 3/8 hole and drilled 3/16 @ 90 degrees to the slot. AN3 bolt secures the block to a adapter and tightens the clamp.
The clamp has been used on most/all Pitts aircraft for decades. I am too cheap to buy them from Aviat. Gold is cheaper than an Aviat part.

 

[Ben Ellis]

I'm resurrecting this thread for anyone who is considering ACS cables for their RV. I ordered the "A-1550 Vans RV Custom Control Cable" from Spruce (https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/a1550.php) after calling ACS and Spruce to confirm that the specs are correct for my RV-8. I chose these over the Cable Craft cables because they have a higher claimed heat rating (500-600deg) and because it was just easier for me to order them through Spruce than to deal with a Cable Craft distributor. I also didn't want to spend the $625 per cable that MacFarlane quoted me. Spruce charged me $247.95 for each of these cables.

Unfortunately the product page on Spruce is messed up. It says the stroke is 3-3/8", but if you add the item to your cart, you'll discover that the only stroke options are the more suitable 2.25" and 2.50" (I ordered 2.25"). You can also pay for a custom stroke length, but that should not be needed. I actually called to place my order with Spruce after talking with ACS (you can't place an order directly with ACS) because another defect with the website is that it forces you to choose a knob color and these cables, of course, don't have knobs. Another thing missing from the website is the lead time, which was about six weeks before shipping.

So far I've installed all three cables at the quadrant and the prop cable to the governor and there's plenty of thread on the bulkhead fitting and the cable tip to position the cables where needed. Here's a picture for those who are curious what they look like. They feel very smooth and seem well made.

 

[RV7 To Go]

I used ACS cables on both my 7 and 8. They both came with 3 3/8" strokes which required a little modification on the mounting brackets to make them work, but they came out ok. Over 800 hrs on my 7 with no cable issues and only 125 on the 8 but so far so good. A buddy ordered the 2.5" for his 8 to replace the Cablecraft ones that were sticking after 300 hrs. All good so far.