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Removing ECU - RV-12is

H

HEB1022

Member
Does anyone have recent experience in removing the ECU from RV-12is? I need to pull this to send to Lockwood. I had 2 questions. Does the battery need to be disconnected before removal of the ECU? And secondly, how difficult (or impossible) is it to remove it through the passeger-side EFIS opening (11" Dynon), or is it necessary to remove the panel on top of it? (I was hoping not to have to remove the canopy, if possible).


Thanks in Advance,

Harry
 
You should be able to remove the entire right side panel section without removing the top cowl section. I think.
 
You can remove the avionics bay cover without removing the canopy. You can also access the avionics bay through the EFIS openings, but it would probably be much easier to do it with the avionics bay cover off. It's not really that hard to take it off if the sealant was done correctly, just a lot of screws. However, on my SLSA, the cover was improperly bonded to the firewall and ribs so it took a huge amount of effort to get it removed and make it properly sealed again without being bonded. If I were you, I'd at least try to take it off and find out whether it comes off easily like it is supposed to. If it doesn't come off because it's bonded, then I'd definitely try the EFIS opening next before breaking open any sealant.

My opinion is that you should disconnect the battery before doing work on the electrical system, but you should consult your maintenance manual.

LMK if you have any questions about removing the cover.
 
Eriselle said:
You can remove the avionics bay cover without removing the canopy. You can also access the avionics bay through the EFIS openings, but it would probably be much easier to do it with the avionics bay cover off. It's not really that hard to take it off if the sealant was done correctly, just a lot of screws. However, on my SLSA, the cover was improperly bonded to the firewall and ribs so it took a huge amount of effort to get it removed and make it properly sealed again without being bonded. If I were you, I'd at least try to take it off and find out whether it comes off easily like it is supposed to. If it doesn't come off because it's bonded, then I'd definitely try the EFIS opening next before breaking open any sealant.

My opinion is that you should disconnect the battery before doing work on the electrical system, but you should consult your maintenance manual.

LMK if you have any questions about removing the cover.
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Thanks,
There is one screw that is blocked by the canopy. Is there a way/trick to get that screw with the canopy in place?
 
HEB1022 said:
Thanks,
There is one screw that is blocked by the canopy. Is there a way/trick to get that screw with the canopy in place?
Click to expand...
A lot of builders have cut a notch in the fiberglass of the canopy to allow that one screw to be removed. Otherwise the canopy has to come off.

Henry
 
The other option after removing the canopy this time is to just leave those two screws out. Can’t believe they would make much difference considering the number of other screws that are there.
 
I'm not sure I want to know.. but I'll ask the question anyway.. why are you having to send in the ECU?

Yes, you can remove the ECU through the MFD cutout in the panel. Its just 4 screws that hold it in.. and the 3 connectors to the ECU. OR, if you still need more space, just remove the co-pilot instrument panel plate itself.
 
This is a factory built SLSA. Van’s either mis-programmed the Engine Serial Number, or swapped the ECU between 2 planes being built at the same time. The Engine serial number is burned into the ECU and can only be changed by a service center with Level 3 Rotax dongle (ie Lockwood).
 
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