Van's Air Force
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PROSEAL DISPENSING GUN
- Thread starter jsenft
- Start date
Haven't tried that one, but these ones work great.
https://www.yardstore.com/sealant-guns-and-acc/sealant-guns/new
or
https://www.yardstore.com/sealant-guns-and-acc/sealant-guns/surplus
https://www.yardstore.com/sealant-guns-and-acc/sealant-guns/new
or
https://www.yardstore.com/sealant-guns-and-acc/sealant-guns/surplus
Kyle Boatright
Well Known Member
Ziploc baggies with the corner cut-out, ala cake decorating.
auburnaviator
Well Known Member
I have the pneumatic version and absolutely love it. Wouldn’t trade it for anything. Buy the pre-measured tubes from Vans and the tube fits right in the gun. Don’t use it all, put it in the freezer till you’re ready to use it again. (3 days is the longest I’ve let one sit in the freezer and it still cured just fine).
Regards,
Zach
Brantel
Well Known Member
Any hardware store caulk gun will work.
The one that Van's sells has a round hole in the end for the cartridge which is better than the typical caulk gun but not entirely necessary.
Van's charges $20 for their gun. Their pic is very deceiving on their webstore. The pic shows a robust looking gun that might be worth $20 but in reality you get sent a flimsy tool that looks like it is worth $2. The handle end is made out of cheap thin plastic and it allows the piston/rod to twist out of line with the cartridge when squeezing requiring you to hold the cartridge inline with the gun.
To be fair, there is a note on the webstore that the pic may be different than what you will receive.
The one that Van's sells has a round hole in the end for the cartridge which is better than the typical caulk gun but not entirely necessary.
Van's charges $20 for their gun. Their pic is very deceiving on their webstore. The pic shows a robust looking gun that might be worth $20 but in reality you get sent a flimsy tool that looks like it is worth $2. The handle end is made out of cheap thin plastic and it allows the piston/rod to twist out of line with the cartridge when squeezing requiring you to hold the cartridge inline with the gun.
To be fair, there is a note on the webstore that the pic may be different than what you will receive.
Attachments
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That's interesting - the picture on the website looks just like the one they sold me years ago. They must have quietly changed suppliers.
Brantel
Well Known Member
Yeah I was disappointed but in the grand scheme of things, no big deal.
auburnaviator
Well Known Member
Is that to stir/mix the cartridge with a drill? I’ve never seen that before. Is it on Vans website or where did you find it?
Zach: Yep, it's for turning the dasher rod while you move the rod in and out. Just be sure that you have your drill turning clockwise, as you look from the back to the chuck, or you will be trying to thread the mixer paddle back onto the rod......BTDT, but using a benchtop mixer with the switch in reverse....
Brantel
Well Known Member
Yes, once you do it by hand and then use one of these, you will thank me!
Makes mixing this stuff properly a non event!
https://www.yardstore.com/sealant-mixer
As Craig said above, only mix going clockwise otherwise the stem will unscrew itself from the mixer head inside the cartridge!
When I was in the Army many moons ago, I was a helicopter mechanic/crew chief. Army helicopters have proseal everywhere imaginable! We never had the proper tools to work with the cartridges and had to mix them by hand... Yeah that stunk!
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rocketman1988
Well Known Member
+1
Plus 1 for the pneumatic sealant gun! Once you use it, you will NEVER use anything else.
There are vendors that sell these surplus, if you don't need to buy new. I was able to find one for $50, and it works great...
Plus 1 for the pneumatic sealant gun! Once you use it, you will NEVER use anything else.
There are vendors that sell these surplus, if you don't need to buy new. I was able to find one for $50, and it works great...
Me too. Look for "semco" pneumatic guns. I got the one with the short barrel. I also bought a batch of tubes and nozzles that I reuse. I mix on a thick plastic sheet and then scoop it into the tube. when done push the rubber gasket out of the tube and leave the excess in the nozzle. It cleans up easy.
Leaving the nozzle full and a tail sticking out when it is unscrewed before curing lets you in a couple days just pull the tail and all the sealant pops out of the nozzle and it can then be reused.
Leaving the nozzle full and a tail sticking out when it is unscrewed before curing lets you in a couple days just pull the tail and all the sealant pops out of the nozzle and it can then be reused.
Aircraft spruce also has one under "SEALANT GUN". Air powered, and (just) $112... Pneumatic is so much easier to work with.
I must have searched a dozen times to find it, and did most of my work with cheap hardware store ones before I did, so adding it here for posterity.
https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/sealantgun3.php?clickkey=29031
I must have searched a dozen times to find it, and did most of my work with cheap hardware store ones before I did, so adding it here for posterity.
https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/sealantgun3.php?clickkey=29031
A bit about using the pneumatic guns.... Fresh mixed sealant will flow much quicker than you think, based on the tip's opening...
A small hole won't flow a lot, but lets you have finer control over placement. A large hole will flow lots more sealant, but can get messy quickly. As work time nears it's limit, the sealant won't flow as well, and may require you to open the tip up a little more.
For doing fillets along seams, cut the tip at about a 45 degree angle, and flow the sealant as you push the tip along the seam. It will fill the gaps way better and can result in less mess and cleanup. Where you can't push, you can pull, but you may have to work the sealant in with a small, smooth tool, or with your fingertip wetted with some lightly soapy water.
For cap sealing fasteners, a 90 degree cut generally works the best. It takes some practice to get it down to a quick and clean application.
A shop trick on using the longer nozzles, ( 6" or so), is if you need to work some weird angles, before you fill them with sealant, you can use some heat from a lighter or decent heat gun to soften them and bend them as necessary.
If you want a sharp line to run the sealant edge to, a quality masking tape works well, just allow the sealant to set up for a few minutes before you start pulling the tape. Pull it away from the wet sealant at either vertical from the surface, or fold it back on itself and pull at an angle....like you would with taping an edge for paint.
Last thing is wear clothes you aren't afraid of ruining. No matter how careful you are, at some point you will get some on you and your clothes. It will clean off off of you, but forget trying to get it completely out of your clothes.
Don't forget that you can get sealants in various work lives, so that's a way to help cut the costs. Plan for enough work with the life you select and the volume to mix and that way you can minimize waste.
Almost forgot....Let off the trigger a bit before you want the sealant to stop flowing....It doesn't quit instantly!!!!!!
A small hole won't flow a lot, but lets you have finer control over placement. A large hole will flow lots more sealant, but can get messy quickly. As work time nears it's limit, the sealant won't flow as well, and may require you to open the tip up a little more.
For doing fillets along seams, cut the tip at about a 45 degree angle, and flow the sealant as you push the tip along the seam. It will fill the gaps way better and can result in less mess and cleanup. Where you can't push, you can pull, but you may have to work the sealant in with a small, smooth tool, or with your fingertip wetted with some lightly soapy water.
For cap sealing fasteners, a 90 degree cut generally works the best. It takes some practice to get it down to a quick and clean application.
A shop trick on using the longer nozzles, ( 6" or so), is if you need to work some weird angles, before you fill them with sealant, you can use some heat from a lighter or decent heat gun to soften them and bend them as necessary.
If you want a sharp line to run the sealant edge to, a quality masking tape works well, just allow the sealant to set up for a few minutes before you start pulling the tape. Pull it away from the wet sealant at either vertical from the surface, or fold it back on itself and pull at an angle....like you would with taping an edge for paint.
Last thing is wear clothes you aren't afraid of ruining. No matter how careful you are, at some point you will get some on you and your clothes. It will clean off off of you, but forget trying to get it completely out of your clothes.
Don't forget that you can get sealants in various work lives, so that's a way to help cut the costs. Plan for enough work with the life you select and the volume to mix and that way you can minimize waste.
Almost forgot....Let off the trigger a bit before you want the sealant to stop flowing....It doesn't quit instantly!!!!!!
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Majorpayne317641
Well Known Member
200ml vet syringe, they are cheap disposable and are easily filled. I trimmed the nozzle to desired size. Easy to apply from it even when you are working inside an already built tank repairing a leak.
auburnaviator
Well Known Member
Zach: Yep, it's for turning the dasher rod while you move the rod in and out. Just be sure that you have your drill turning clockwise, as you look from the back to the chuck, or you will be trying to thread the mixer paddle back onto the rod......BTDT, but using a benchtop mixer with the switch in reverse....
Thanks!
Regards,
Zach
I have one of these I just bought from Amazon and won't be using. The ad says it fits Semkit tubes, but I was using Flamemaster Chemseal B2, and it wouldn't fit in those at all, despite them looking just like Semkit tubes. I can clean it up and sell it to you if you're interested.
As for the original question, I just finished fixing a fuel leak and never needed any dispenser. When the sealant is freshly mixed, it's soft enough I could just push the back of the tube with my thumb; add a deep socket later.
Brantel
Well Known Member
I got mine from the Yard Store and it works just fine for Flamemaster cartridges that Vans sells.
It would be super easy to make an equivalent tool.
fgwilliams
Member
eBAY find
I found my pneumatic gun on eBay from a seller out of Texas. Bought the disposable parts from Spruce and it worked great. I will be passing it around to the other builders in the area when its time for them to do tanks. I paid less than $50 for it. Its worth a little searching to get this tool. Made like so much easier.
I found my pneumatic gun on eBay from a seller out of Texas. Bought the disposable parts from Spruce and it worked great. I will be passing it around to the other builders in the area when its time for them to do tanks. I paid less than $50 for it. Its worth a little searching to get this tool. Made like so much easier.
auburnaviator
Well Known Member
Thanks Ken but I always use the Flamemaster cartridges from Vans so if yours doesn’t work for those I think I’ll pass.
Like Brian mentioned I may try and fab up my own home brew version. Shouldn’t be to difficult.
Regards,
Zach
Jim Frisbie
Active Member
Pro seal appl
I use a vet syringe from the local farm & ranch store
I find the large “wound irritation “ type most useful as they have about a2 in nose and a large appeture
They hold a lot and are re-usable as the pro seal does not stick to the plastic and can be pulled out of it after it dries
They are usually less than $2 ea.
I use a vet syringe from the local farm & ranch store
I find the large “wound irritation “ type most useful as they have about a2 in nose and a large appeture
They hold a lot and are re-usable as the pro seal does not stick to the plastic and can be pulled out of it after it dries
They are usually less than $2 ea.
I purchased my used pneumatic proseal gun 3 decades ago at an aviation surplus store in Southern Kalifornia for $20. It worked with every brand of sealant that I have used. After using it on several RV fuel tanks, I would pay the price of the new one listed in the links above if I could not find a used one.
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larrynew
Well Known Member
Semco
I’m a big Semco sealant gun fan. Here’s a write-up I did years ago.
https://larrys-airplane.blogspot.com/2010/07/semco-sealant-gun.html?m=1
I’m a big Semco sealant gun fan. Here’s a write-up I did years ago.
https://larrys-airplane.blogspot.com/2010/07/semco-sealant-gun.html?m=1
wirejock
Well Known Member
Syringes
Same here. I buy Rubberless 50ml Catheter tip from Grainger. Box is about $1 ea. They drop right into a caulk gun. I bet someone makes a cheap pneumatic caulk gun.
I also love them for measuring paints. Zero mess and zero waste. Pull the paint right out of the can. For viscous chems, I remove the plunger and hold a finger over the tip. Pour the liquid in then drop the finger and let it flow into the paint cup.
Same here. I buy Rubberless 50ml Catheter tip from Grainger. Box is about $1 ea. They drop right into a caulk gun. I bet someone makes a cheap pneumatic caulk gun.
I also love them for measuring paints. Zero mess and zero waste. Pull the paint right out of the can. For viscous chems, I remove the plunger and hold a finger over the tip. Pour the liquid in then drop the finger and let it flow into the paint cup.
