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G3X Panel Layout - Remote Warning Lights?

Laird

Laird

Well Known Member
Hi all,

I'm starting to layout my instrument panel for my RV-8 with a G3X. It's a simple panel. I'll have one GDU-460 screen plus a GNX-375 GPS, GTR-200 comm, GMC-50X AP controller head on the panel. GEA 24 and GAD 27 behind.

My question is: is there a need for external caution/warning idiot lights (oil pressure, fuel pressure, voltage, etc), or do the warning show up on the main screen? And are they prominent enough to really get your attention?

Thanks,

Laird
 
There are all kinds of arguments for & against.

I chose to use the CAS in the G3X for everything. Events are very noticeable, and can be configured with a "chime" as well...

Here's a picture for reference:

IMG_5163.jpeg
 
CAS system works great as others have mentioned. The only thing I doubled up on (CAS and another light was door open (RV-10) and Earth X batteries (Energy dependent engine) The CAS system can generate a tone to further raise awareness. On my 14 just doubled up on Earth X warning lights.
 

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I have basically a master caution light that would prompt me to check all of the engine parameters. I also have left and right caution lights for the doors on the RV-10. Seems adequate to me.
 
I have G3X system but did add some idiot warning lights to the panel:
Canopy unlocked
Fuel pump ON
Alternator low voltage
 
I didn't add any extra lights in my 6A but in my 10 I am building I am have external switches/lights for master warning and master caution. With the latest software you can "cancel" the external light. The reason I went with the external lights is I have missed some CAS cautions/warnings for a few seconds and I figure the lights will get my attention better.
 
This is going to be 100% personal preference. I chose to go with 5 idiot lights: Oil pressure which is driven from a pressure switch on the oil line, Voltage which is driven from my B&C voltage regulator, master caution from the G3X, master warning from the G3X, and finally CO from the CO detector. I prefer a bright unambiguous light in my face rather than a 20 pixel high text on one of the displays.

 
One more consideration -- if you do opt for remote lights, make sure you can dim them. Flew in a friends RV-14 the other evening and the "Boost Pump" LED was blindingly bright --- couldn't tell the retina burns from the traffic in the pattern :/
 
Personal preference for sure, but I'm set up with everything as just CAS messages except the carbon monoxide detector, which has a tiny red/green LED with a test switch right next to it above the PFD.
 
One more for no idiot lights.
I had idiot lights on my RV7. I found it tricky to get the dimming right if you plan to fly at night. Granted that was in the days before GAD27s.
CAS only on the RV10. Nice and simple.
It’s impossible to miss a CAS msg. Especially if it has an audio alert attached.

If you use the conditional alert formatting available now you can make sure that you get very few if any nuisance alerts. Like standby alt voltage drop at low RPM or low oil pressure at idle when hot.
RTM and getting the alert configuration set up properly is well with the time spent.
 
I am with Walt......I hate idiot lights and they are no better, and fuel pump lights.....at night, makes you want to turn your pump off.

Don't do it. The G3X and Dynon systems these days do all you need and nothing you don't.
 
I like to fly at night. Bright idiot lights front and center do not appeal to me. Mine are off to the side with a dimmer (if needed) for the warning and caution lights. What I don’t like is the CO monitor green light is always on to show it is working. I will probably take a sharpie on color the LED to dim it.
 

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Laird said:
Thanks for all the opinions! I consider my questions answered.
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First, thank you for asking the question. The responses were interesting.

As an RV-8 owner with aspirations of installing a Garmin G3X system like yours, I’d be very interested in what you decided.

Thank you.
 
I went overboard on this one and may disable or repurpose some. But I will repeat the oil pressure switch activated low oil pressure light and the master caution and master warning on the next one. I don't power up the G3X until after start, so if I have no oil pressure, I want to know immediately. And, it is a flashing "you forgot to turn off the master" indicator after shutdown. Mine are dead-front and I have a "dim" setting, so they are fine at night. For everything else, the G3X audio alert and master caution/warning lights will flag you to check the gauges.
1707451774006.jpeg
 
Another issue to consider if you go for separate lights is that you will almost certainly need to have them on their own dimming circuit. So either a dedicated knob or concurrent with other circuits using the same dim knob input - with a discrete voltage or PWM output.
I had to do my first one on a dedicated circuit. So I had oil pressure, volts, master, caution and fuel pump on idiot lights above the GDU. I left them there from an upgrade from an early AFS.
Without fail, every night flight id turn on the fuel pump and then have to go looking for the idiot light dimmer to dim it - because it needs to be on full bright for all of your daytime flights - lest you miss it in the day!
It was not a great setup.
There’s a litany of accidents from GA up to transport jets that have been caused by dimming / warning lights etc. learn from them. Not needed with an EICAS.
 
Chkaharyer99 said:
First, thank you for asking the question. The responses were interesting.

As an RV-8 owner with aspirations of installing a Garmin G3X system like yours, I’d be very interested in what you decided.

Thank you.
Click to expand...

I really like simplicity when it is good nuf, so I'll be going with the screen warnings instead of remote lights.

I'm trying to build the lightest airplane I can. It'll have 1 battery, 1 alternator, no E-bus, and a clear view out the window (I don't fly at night much anymore, and even though I'm rated, I don't keep current enough to be safe so I avoid IFR flight (it will have an IFR navigator though).

In the 2000 hours that were flown in my RV-6, I never had an electrical failure that caused me to terminate a flight (not that it couldn't happen). This might be controversial, and everyone has their own comfort level, but sometimes I think some people tend to over-think/over-equip their airplanes for any issue might come up over the life of the airplane at the cost of $$, weight, and complexity. Just my opinion...

Regards,

Laird
 
Laird said:
I really like simplicity when it is good nuf, so I'll be going with the screen warnings instead of remote lights.

I'm trying to build the lightest airplane I can. It'll have 1 battery, 1 alternator, no E-bus, and a clear view out the window (I don't fly at night much anymore, and even though I'm rated, I don't keep current enough to be safe so I avoid IFR flight (it will have an IFR navigator though).

In the 2000 hours that were flown in my RV-6, I never had an electrical failure that caused me to terminate a flight (not that it couldn't happen). This might be controversial, and everyone has their own comfort level, but sometimes I think some people tend to over-think/over-equip their airplanes for any issue might come up over the life of the airplane at the cost of $$, weight, and complexity. Just my opinion...

Regards,

Laird
Click to expand...
Thank you. Great rational. I hope you will post pictures of your panel.
 
Here's what I did; Both the warning lights and the backlit pushbuttons are dimmed with the same knob that dims the G3X screens and other avionics. One pot for all, controlled by the GAD27. As I increase the brightness of the screens, the idiot lights and backlit switches will follow the screen brightness..
 

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supik said:
Here's what I did; Both the warning lights and the backlit pushbuttons are dimmed with the same knob that dims the G3X screens and other avionics. One pot for all, controlled by the GAD27. As I increase the brightness of the screens, the idiot lights and backlit switches will follow the screen brightness..
Click to expand...
Are the Master Caution/Warning switches always illuminated (albeit at your Theo setting) and then brighten when they “go to work”?
 
flywithayres said:
Are the Master Caution/Warning switches always illuminated (albeit at your Theo setting) and then brighten when they “go to work”?
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No, they are unreadable if not triggered by the system. (dead-front)
See pic below in flight:
 

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