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Attaching elevators to Horizontal Stabilizer pp11-02/3

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gregsrv14

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On page 11-02,m it shows a distance 0f 13/16. At this distance, the elevators rub against the H Stab.
So, I backed out the rod ends a few turns, which also ensured that "the minimum distance from the Horizontal Stabilizer Rear Spar web to the Elevator Torque Tube is 1 5/8".

Then I noticed that the gap between the Elevator Counterbalance Arm and the Horizontal Stabilizer was about 9/64 at the aft end, but only about 5/64 on the forward end.
So, I backed out the outboard rod end one turn.
Not sure yet if this is enough, but since it is an incredible nightmare to get those rod ends into the hinge brackets and get bolts through them, is this the right way to go about this?

How much of those rod ends need to be screwed into the platenut of the HA?
Is it ok for the centers of the holes to be different distances from the HA spar?


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gregsrv14 said:
On page 11-02,m it shows a distance 0f 13/16. At this distance, the elevators rub against the H Stab.
So, I backed out the rod ends a few turns, which also ensured that "the minimum distance from the Horizontal Stabilizer Rear Spar web to the Elevator Torque Tube is 1 5/8".

Then I noticed that the gap between the Elevator Counterbalance Arm and the Horizontal Stabilizer was about 9/64 at the aft end, but only about 5/64 on the forward end.
So, I backed out the outboard rod end one turn.
Not sure yet if this is enough, but since it is an incredible nightmare to get those rod ends into the hinge brackets and get bolts through them, is this the right way to go about this?

How much of those rod ends need to be screwed into the platenut of the HA?
Is it ok for the centers of the holes to be different distances from the HA spar?


View attachment 121051View attachment 121052
Click to expand...
Make sure the elevator fronts are curved per the sketch in the plans. I had clearance issues at first but after adjusting the front shape (basically pressing on the front rivets to flare the upper and lower portions) I ended up with no rubbing over the full travel at 13/16 on all rods. You want all the rod center holes to be basically along a straight line, with plenty of thread extending into the nutplates.
 
gregsrv14 said:
On page 11-02,m it shows a distance 0f 13/16. At this distance, the elevators rub against the H Stab.
So, I backed out the rod ends a few turns, which also ensured that "the minimum distance from the Horizontal Stabilizer Rear Spar web to the Elevator Torque Tube is 1 5/8".

Then I noticed that the gap between the Elevator Counterbalance Arm and the Horizontal Stabilizer was about 9/64 at the aft end, but only about 5/64 on the forward end.
So, I backed out the outboard rod end one turn.
Not sure yet if this is enough, but since it is an incredible nightmare to get those rod ends into the hinge brackets and get bolts through them, is this the right way to go about this?

How much of those rod ends need to be screwed into the platenut of the HA?
Is it ok for the centers of the holes to be different distances from the HA spar?


View attachment 121051View attachment 121052
Click to expand...
Vans now stocks an extra length rod end bearing to replace the (4) MD3614M. This may help with the minimum 1-2 number of threads through nut plate. A lot of us ran into this issue.
Also, get some good hemostats to feed and hold the hinge attach bolts in place (Amazon).
 
G5Driver said:
Vans now stocks an extra length rod end bearing to replace the (4) MD3614M. This may help with the minimum 1-2 number of threads through nut plate. A lot of us ran into this issue.
Also, get some good hemostats to feed and hold the hinge attach bolts in place (Amazon).
Click to expand...

Hemostats! Good thinking!
 
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