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control stick bushing problem. help

jscottpilot

Active Member
The number 4 bolt that holds the front and rear control sticks onto the control column will not fit inside the bushings. If i drill it quarter inch it will then be to big. What is the proper way to enlarge a bushing where the bushing does not rotate around the boat? Has anyone else had to enlarge this bushing to fit the bolt?
 
The number 4 bolt that holds the front and rear control sticks onto the control column will not fit inside the bushings. If i drill it quarter inch it will then be to big. What is the proper way to enlarge a bushing where the bushing does not rotate around the boat? Has anyone else had to enlarge this bushing to fit the bolt?

There like this on all of them as far as I know. Here is the deal though. The pivoting is suppose to be the steel tube pivoting on the bushing not the bushing on the bolt.

To do this, it is not the bolt being tight in the bushing that you want, what you want is the bushing to be 1/32 to 1/16" longer than the steel tube part that it inserts into. This way, the steel clevis will clamp tight to the bushing when you tighten down the bolt. A little extra clearance between the bolt and the bushing would make no difference here. The 7 plans actually show making it longer, not sure about the 8's drawings.

I would dare say that the majority just drill out the bushing with a 1/4" bit.
 
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Brian has it right. (BTW, well written Brian) I know the 10 is the same way. Make sure the brass / bronze bushing fits snugly into the steel tube though. Any slop there will cause the stick to have an annoying jiggle to it. I have added brass shim stock to RV's to "tighten" them up and get rid of the jiggle. It makes them rock solid, but does not effect control. After you get it put togeather grab the stick and move it around. If you like the feel you are done, if not study where the movement is and add shim stock. Pop cans work in a pinch, but thin aluminum is a temporary shim. It won't last but a few years.
 
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