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Adhesive for leg fairing piano hinges

D

dbier99

Well Known Member
The leg fairings (mains) for our RV6A need to be replaced from wear/tear. I have the replacement fairings from Vans and my son is diligently following instructions, templates and advice for trimming them to fit. However, an RV7 builder at our airport suggested that we use an adhesive - in addition to rivets - to more strongly bond the hinge halves to the fairings. He said he used ProSeal - which is apparanty a very expensive ($150/pint) fuel tank sealer, but said there are likely other adhesives that willl also work just fine.
Can anyone here recommend one? All other suggestions related to the replacement/fabrication of the leg fairings are welcome as this (including fiberglass work) is all new to us - but we're eager learners!
 
G-flex

dbier99 said:
The leg fairings (mains) for our RV6A need to be replaced from wear/tear. I have the replacement fairings from Vans and my son is diligently following instructions, templates and advice for trimming them to fit. However, an RV7 builder at our airport suggested that we use an adhesive - in addition to rivets - to more strongly bond the hinge halves to the fairings. He said he used ProSeal - which is apparanty a very expensive ($150/pint) fuel tank sealer, but said there are likely other adhesives that willl also work just fine.
Can anyone here recommend one? All other suggestions related to the replacement/fabrication of the leg fairings are welcome as this (including fiberglass work) is all new to us - but we're eager learners!
Click to expand...

I used West G-Flex. It's very tenacious and sticks to virtually everything. Easy to fimd at many hardware stores and mixes just like other epoxies. Follow the mix rate. 100% to 84%
Thankfully it won't stick to plastic or packing tape. It does stick to glass. I was making a part and needed totally flat so I waxed the glass. Next day I had to break the glass and grind it off. So much for perfectly flat.
I bonded the hinges with clekos and pin in place. It helps to keep things aligned. Make sure you wax the **** out-of the pin or it won't come out. After it cures, set the rivets.
I also have a draft article for Kitplanes on imstalling pants and fairings. If you want to read it, shoot me an e-mail (below).
 
Hey Larry,

I would love a copy of the draft article for Kitplanes on installing pants and fairings....if you don't mind. Thanks!
 
Tank sealant, G/flex and 3M's 2216 all would work just fine.

Van's can sell you tank sealant. This
 is a 2 hour working life and should be enough sealant for $21.00.

As Larry mentioned, G/flex works well. Hardware stores sell it but I prefer the thickened variety, the 655 model. This should be enough. $35 on Amazon.

This ought to be enough 2216, also from Amazon, for $62.

My preference would be the G/flex. I keep all three at hand.

Dave
 
Be very careful if the adhesive gets into the eyelets, you will have a hard time cleaning/removing it and the pin will not travel easily.

My recommendation would be to use rivets as per plan and then put a layer of 3 oz FG cloth on top and sand smooth for painting. My first RV (just had a 15th birthday) shows zero rivets thru the gear legs fairing or the cowl.
 
The very abbreviated gluing process is:

Abrade both mating surfaces, especially the piano hinge, which is anodized and needs roughness.

Wipe with alcohol till your cleaning cloth is unmarked. Let any residual alcohol dry.

Spread the glue sparingly and neatly on either surface. Clean off any excess. As Mehrdad mentioned, don't let it block the eyelets.

Cleco the hinge to the glass.

After 45-60 minutes for either epoxy and when tacky for the tank sealant, pull the clecos out and replace them with fresh, else they get glued in. Clean the removed ones.

When the glue is fully cured, rivet the joints.

Done.

If you screwed up and the glue did block the eyelets, a Dremel can clear the openings. If you used tank sealant, an Xacto knife should do the trick.

Dave
 
dbier99 said:
What is the consistency of the Van's sealant when mixed? Is it thin watery/paint-like coating? Or more of a buttery batter/paste consistency?
Click to expand...

The consistency is unlike anything else, it is very sticky but does not flow, it needs to be spread on or more like smeared on. Mix part A and B 10:1, this requires a scale that is accurate to 0.1g if you are mixing small quantities. Aircraft Spruce sell pint size cans for under $40, search for CS3204.
 
Thanks everyone for the great info/suggestions. Hoping to move forward with the work early next week - and your input will definitely help!
 
Wouldn’t sika flex work and it won’t stick to anything that doesn’t have activator on it
 
Weta said:
Wouldn’t sika flex work and it won’t stick to anything that doesn’t have activator on it
Click to expand...

Thanks for the suggestion, but which SikaFlex product are you referring to? I just checed their website (www.sika.com/en/brands/sikaflex.html) and didn't see any that had an activator. Also they were pretty vague about what materials could be bonded (was hoping to see specific mention of fiberglass and metal).
 
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