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  #1  
Old 07-18-2021, 08:11 PM
jwyatt jwyatt is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Goodhue, MN
Posts: 169
Default Removing stuck lord mounts

With my engine removed for repair, I’m attending to various FWF tasks while I await its return. I’d like to measure the rubber mounts to see if they are within spec, as the lower forward isolators appear to be “eccentric” as Lord calls it. But, the fore and aft pieces are stuck firm in the dynafocal rings. Some light prying and tapping with a hammer and wooden drift produced no results.

How does one remove the isolators? BFH? The aft side of he uppers came right out but the lowers aren’t moving.

Related…best to replace the lower mounts, or shim them, to correct for the sag that’s occurred over the last 550 hours?
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  #2  
Old 07-18-2021, 08:33 PM
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Saber25 Saber25 is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Colorado
Posts: 261
Default

With that many hours and what you describe on how they look, this would be a great time to replace.
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  #3  
Old 07-18-2021, 11:25 PM
gasman gasman is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Sonoma County
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If your mounts were new 550 hours ago, they should be good to 2000 hours.

Maybe post some pictures.
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  #4  
Old 07-20-2021, 04:28 PM
jwyatt jwyatt is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Goodhue, MN
Posts: 169
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You can see there’s some sag going on under no load. The condition of the rubber parts looks good, just a bit droopy. I’d say there was settling on the spinner in the first 150 hours but it’s been in the same spot since then.
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  #5  
Old 07-20-2021, 07:06 PM
BoydBirchler BoydBirchler is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2020
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 103
Default

I would shim them. I have had to shim nearly every new set I have put on in order to get the cowl to match the spinner. I have seen no down side to doing so, and would do the same with your fresh looking 500 hour mounts.

I have seen many RV mounts installed backwards. When installed correctly the one on the top in front, is on the back on the bottom. One mount in the set is harder duromitor (harder rubber) than the opposing in it's set. The rubber mount getting compressed needs to be the harder of the 2 mounts. The mount under compression on the top ears is on the opposite side on the bottom ears.
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  #6  
Old 07-21-2021, 06:43 AM
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Bill Boyd Bill Boyd is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Landing field "12VA"
Posts: 1,684
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I need to shim mine a bit after 50 hours... is it acceptable to insert a U- or perhaps better described as a C-shaped shim, or is it necessary to pull the bolt to insert a full-circle shim? I don't relish removing and realigning those bolts although I've done it before to hang the engine.

I can't easily envision cheater C-shim coming out but they'd alter the bolt torque if they managed to work out from under.
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Last edited by Bill Boyd : 07-21-2021 at 07:21 AM.
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  #7  
Old 07-21-2021, 06:44 AM
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PDC RV8 PDC RV8 is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Posts: 7
Default

The rubber mounts appear to be installed correctly. The ribbed rubber portion should be under compression.
View - https://youtu.be/jcM2x_g7wf4
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Last edited by PDC RV8 : 07-21-2021 at 06:56 AM. Reason: corrected wording from incorrectly to correctly
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