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Old 07-07-2021, 04:34 PM
HFS HFS is offline
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Lemoore, CA
Posts: 362
Default DIY For (easier) Taper Pin Removal

Here is a little "mod" I made to the Taper Pin holding the tail wheel spring into its steel receiver.

Just get a slightly longer "grip" length, machine the taper out of the end to allow sliding into a 5/16 - 18 (or 24) hex nut, then TIG weld together. Having the nut solidly attached to the pin, allows for greater and easier torque application during the removal process.

Since the pin is hidden inside the fuselage - no additional drag is incurred.

YMMV - and probably will.

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Old 07-07-2021, 06:01 PM
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scard scard is online now
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Cedar Park, TX
Posts: 3,358

I love it when David shows off just how much FUN he is having! It takes a certain kind of self confidence to post a picture of a weld on the internet these days . Good on you David!
Scott Card
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Old 07-07-2021, 06:51 PM
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mburch mburch is offline
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Oregon
Posts: 1,315

This looks like a great idea. For those of us without the ability to weld, what about machining a simple slot across the wide end, to accommodate a flat-blade screwdriver? Not as nice as your solution but still maybe better than vise grips.
Matt Burch
RV-7 (last 90%)

Any opinions expressed in this message are my own and not those of my employer.
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Old 07-09-2021, 05:55 AM
BillL BillL is offline
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Central IL
Posts: 6,227

Clever idea, I am hard pressed to find anything wrong about this, there seem to be no down sides.

Now - if I can get mine out (paint shop error on torque) this will be perfect. Although, I will have to work on my welding skill to post a picture

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Old 07-09-2021, 06:23 AM
Deuelly Deuelly is offline
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 39

Do you re-heat treat after welding so wear resistance and shear strength isn't effected?

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Old 07-09-2021, 07:06 AM
HFS HFS is offline
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Lemoore, CA
Posts: 362
Default Heat Treating After Mod

I did not - thinking that where I was doing the welding was far enough away from the shear load so as not to materially effect the pin's performance, and the load undertaken (from a shear standpoint) is pretty minimal.

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