Skybolt Opaque Cowl Install

[mfleming]

Thanks for all the great replies.
So I started installing the Skybolts on the upper cowling.
I'll document the technique for the upper cowl that I finally settled on for the historical record

1. With the flanges riveted in place, tape a skybolt cleco insert in the flange.
2. Triangulate the center of the cleco hole with a 6" rule and sharpie. I used a center line and two obtuse angles.
3. Install the upper cowl and tape in place. Make sure it's what you want.
4. Extend the triangulation lines from the fuselage to the fiberglass cowl.
5. Drill a #30 hole where the three lines meet. If the hole is not perfectly centered, use the drill bit to elongate the hole so its centered on the cleco hole.
6. Cleco the cowl in place and trace a circle around the cleco body. (not really necessary as you guide the hole through observing the receptacle)
7. Rivet the Skybolt receptacle to the center top flange (I had to remove and then reinstall the receptacle locking device to rivet the holder due to possibly damage from the squeezer.
8. Enlarge the center top hole in the fiberglass cowl with a step drill a couple of steps (not much) with the cowl off.
9. Install the top cowling and cleco...make sure it fits the way you want.
10. Observe the enlarged hole and draw arrows in the direction it needs to move to be centered on the receptacle.
11. Remove the cowling and use the step drill to guide the hole in the direction indicated by a couple of steps.
12. Repeat until the hole is final sized and centered on the receptacle.
13. Install a Skybolt recessed washer and locking lug.
14. Install the cowl and set the locking lug depth by screwing it in until flush.
15. Repeat the the process until all Skybolts are installed.

I installed the center skybolt and then did the one on either side at the same time and then the next two on either side after that. The more skybolts that were installed, the more confident I was to do more than one at a time.

Lots of on and off this way but its working well.

[RV7Guy]

Did you get the little inserts that go in the flanges? The have a hole in them for silver cleco. Makes alignment a breeze.

[mfleming]

Originally Posted by RV7Guy

Did you get the little inserts that go in the flanges? The have a hole in them for silver cleco. Makes alignment a breeze.

Yes, I have the little cleco inserts but with an opaque cowling, I wouldn't call it a breeze

Edit: Congratulations on your Grand Champion RV-7 Darwin!!

[AlphaCharlieBravo]

I received the complete FF Skybolt Kit for my RV-7. It included the SK245A162A receivers as part of the kit. They are brass colored, accept 2 1/8th rivets. It looks as though there is no room for the shop head to expand.

I cant find one picture on anyones site of one of these installed to see what the rivet will look like set. Can anyone of you please either post a picture and if not able to send me a PM and Ill include my email.

Thanks very much.
Arnie

[wirejock]

Originally Posted by AlphaCharlieBravo

I received the complete FF Skybolt Kit for my RV-7. It included the SK245A162A receivers as part of the kit. They are brass colored, accept 2 1/8th rivets. It looks as though there is no room for the shop head to expand.

I cant find one picture on anyones site of one of these installed to see what the rivet will look like set. Can anyone of you please either post a picture and if not able to send me a PM and Ill include my email.

Thanks very much.
Arnie

They set right up against the edges of the receivers. If using a squeezer, the thickness of the shop head will stop at the thickness of the receiver metal. If you have any floaters, compare the two. Only differencenis the dimension of the exterior of the receiver. Easy to grind to match if you need a little float.

[DanH]

Won't help Mike, but if you have not yet installed anything, note the root of the problem...drilling through the cowl so as to match the existing holes in pre-made Skybolt flanges.

The simple answer is don't use premade flanges. Make your own, without the big center hole. Trim and fixate the cowl, drill though into a blank flange.

Use straight flanges along the sides, no scallops. The scallops tend to catch the corners of the cowl when installing the cowl after service...and chip the paint. Didn't think of it at the time, and really wish I had.

8's and A models should get a little filler strip at the lower corners, see below.

Just like the hinges in a standard install, the Skybolt flanges across the flat bottom of the cowl are under a lot to stress due to the unsupported length across the cowl exit. I run high internal cowl pressure, making the problem worse, and I started seeing signs of rivet stress where the flanges are riveted to the firewall. So, the four sockets down there got "flying buttress" braces, like an upside down "Y", riveted to the firewall and the two ears of the Skybolt socket. Bad photo below.
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[AlphaCharlieBravo]

Thank you Larry for responding so quickly. I now see the difference between the floater and the fixed style. I received floaters in my kit as well.

Also because of an earlier post of yours I ordered extra cleco adaptors.
Looking forward to getting these flanges mounted, engine hung and start working on my James Cowl.

Thanks again.