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11-30-2022, 05:24 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Norwich England
Posts: 228
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Front Baggage Latch Blocks
Note Early fuselage.
What method did people use to locate and install the latch blocks in the early fuse.
I'm struggling with this.
Any pictures and any advice would be welcome.
Thanks
Rob
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11-30-2022, 05:30 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: KAJO
Posts: 976
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The late fuse has the same problem. No good advice because it was a PIA for me to install them too. I mangled one set of latch block before I got it done
__________________
RV8 (N38PV): 90% completed (90% to go)
Days to Final Installation: 999
Days to AWC: 999
Days to First Flight: 999
Painting: 99% completed
Donation paid through 2022
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12-01-2022, 06:36 AM
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Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: Asheville
Posts: 41
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I am about to do this, maybe this weekend, so I am looking forward to any advice out there as well.
__________________
RV-8
Empennage - complete except tips.
Wing - complete except bottom skins and tips.
Fuselage - ready for system installation
Finish Kit - On Order
Build Log
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12-01-2022, 11:02 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Midway, UT
Posts: 560
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Challenging, but doable
It's a puzzler, for sure.
The first thing we did was to tape the receiver blocks into the best position we could manage. Put them in the place you'd want them to end up. Coat the end of the locking pins with lipstick or something, then close the door with the pins retracted. Hold the door as tightly closed as you can manage and then try to "lock" the door, which will extend the pins and mark their position on the blocks. Drill that hole.
Draw the line on the block to mark the centerline of the installation rivets. The blocks do not take marker well, so find the darkest marker you can find and draw as distinct a line as possible, because you've got to find it through the rivet hole.
I had a helper, so I hope the Force will be with you if you're doing this alone.
The next step is to find the hole in the block with the locking pins so you can extend the pins to the "locked" position to grab the block. You don't have to do both at the same time. Once you have a block "pinned" you can try to rotate it either by poking it through the rivet holes, or maybe from beneath with a long handled screwdriver? Get the centerline visible in the rivet holes, and remember to again, PRESS THE DOOR CLOSED before you drill those rivets holes into the block.
At least that's my version.
__________________
Clay "Cookiemonster" Cook
USAF: T-38, F-111F
American Airlines: 727, MD80, 757, 767, 737
RV8 #81751 project sold
RV8 #81651 project acquired
https://theonceandfutureflyer.wordpress.com/
Donations up to date thru December 2022
"...serenity...courage...and wisdom..."
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12-01-2022, 02:15 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Norwich England
Posts: 228
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Blocks
Cookie monster
Thanks for your help.
The earlier kit does not have the pre-punched holes to locate the centre line of the blocks so I'm trying to work out where they sit.
Taking my time as I do not want to do this twice.
Thanks
Rob
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12-01-2022, 08:25 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Bucking ham, Virginia
Posts: 327
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I made several sets of wooden blocks exactly the same size as the plastic blocks that I fitted through trial and error until I was satisfied with the fit then transferred the holes layout to the kit supplied plastic blocks.
__________________
Maule MXT-7(daily flyer)
Lancer 235(partner)
Raidial RV-8R Standing on it's tall Grove gear swinging 84” of whirlwind prop & taxi testing under way
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12-02-2022, 12:22 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Midway, UT
Posts: 560
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Ahhh. No prepunched holes. Got it. Another fine mess you've gotten us into!
Maybe that's easier? No screw holes on the bulkheads and no screw holes on the blocks. Just the big pin receiving holes, once you do them.
Thinking back now, what about fabbing up some supporting wooden bits that are thinner than the blocks and would essentially pin the blocks into position so they can't slide around? Duct tape them to the bulkheads, and then set the blocks there? You could know pretty well where the blocks are by measuring to corners, etc. Then, once the large pin holes are drilled and the blocks are reset into their wooden cradles and PINNED there by "locking" the latch, you could drill your own holes for the screws? Does that make sense?
Again, remember to REALLY hold the door closed hard when drilling, so it closes tight once everything is installed.
__________________
Clay "Cookiemonster" Cook
USAF: T-38, F-111F
American Airlines: 727, MD80, 757, 767, 737
RV8 #81751 project sold
RV8 #81651 project acquired
https://theonceandfutureflyer.wordpress.com/
Donations up to date thru December 2022
"...serenity...courage...and wisdom..."
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12-02-2022, 07:21 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Norwich England
Posts: 228
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Blocks
Can someone post a picture of the PP holes that are used for the attachment of the blocks in a later kit, so that I can use it as an indication of where they are on my non pre punched kit
Thanks in anticipation.
Rob
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12-02-2022, 10:15 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Midway, UT
Posts: 560
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Hope these help.
Taken from the outside. Looking aft at the firewall and forward from the inside.
__________________
Clay "Cookiemonster" Cook
USAF: T-38, F-111F
American Airlines: 727, MD80, 757, 767, 737
RV8 #81751 project sold
RV8 #81651 project acquired
https://theonceandfutureflyer.wordpress.com/
Donations up to date thru December 2022
"...serenity...courage...and wisdom..."
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12-02-2022, 04:23 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Norwich England
Posts: 228
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Blocks
Thanks cookie monster
Rob
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