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  #1  
Old 09-01-2021, 01:23 PM
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Tumper Tumper is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Aubrey, TX
Posts: 362
Default Insulating Fuel Injection Spider and Injector Lines

Has anyone had luck insulating the fuel injection spider and the lines from the spider to the fuel injectors? If so, what did you use to insulate it and how did you insulate it? Also, could you post some pictures.

I think I have fuel vaporizing in those lines on a hot day after landing.

Thanks,
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Dean Eiland
Aubrey, TX
Former Vice President EAA Chapter 1246
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Mattituck IO-360, C/S Whirl Wind Prop, GRT, Digiflight II, Garmin SL30 & GTX 330 and Hotel Whisky Aux tanks, Bla Bla Bla
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  #2  
Old 09-01-2021, 01:39 PM
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DanH DanH is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: 08A
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It's been discussed a lot over the years. No reported success that I recall.
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  #3  
Old 09-01-2021, 02:16 PM
Bicyclops Bicyclops is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: LA, California
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I tried it using firesleeve and a reflective foil sleeve over that. Didn't improve the idle boiling issues and blocked some airflow to the cylinders raising CHTs. I removed most of it.

Ed Holyoke
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  #4  
Old 09-01-2021, 02:24 PM
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bruceh bruceh is offline
 
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I tried it. Used some foil covered/fiber heat tape wrapped around the lines. No real change in the low RPM on the ground with hot engine stumbling issues. Took it all off after about 9 months.



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  #5  
Old 09-01-2021, 03:23 PM
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airguy airguy is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Garden City, Tx
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Physics is stacked against you on trying to effectively insulate these.
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  #6  
Old 09-01-2021, 03:42 PM
tgmillso tgmillso is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Launceston, Tasmania, Australia
Posts: 843
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Hi Dean,

As others have indicated, this may not be the root cause of your problems. Because the mechanical fuel pump is mounted directly to the back of the engine, what may be more important is making sure the oil cooling is adequate, because the oil temp will effectively be what this pump body temp is. If the pump is too warm, as the fuel is drawn under suction to it, it may boil and mean that the pump is only drawing vapor. To help this situation, use light colours when painting your tanks to limit solar heating, insulate the fuel lines as they enter the engine compartment, put a titanium belly skin with ceramic insulation beneath the forward floor and ensure you have the best possible airflow through your oil cooler (good baffles, gaps sealed with RTV etc) or increase the cooler size if necessary (many -7 builders raise the cooler by a inch or so to improve airflow).

Tom
RV-7
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  #7  
Old 09-01-2021, 08:03 PM
Stewbronco Stewbronco is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: Langley BC
Posts: 280
Default Blast tube on Mechanical fuel pump

I have no evidence to support this but I think an attempt to cool mechanical pump with a blast tube ( with a shroud if possible) makes sense
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  #8  
Old 09-01-2021, 08:05 PM
jmra72a jmra72a is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Kalamazoo, MI
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Check out TS Floghtlines. They used to show custom lines for this on their website.
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  #9  
Old 09-01-2021, 09:34 PM
Bevan Bevan is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: BC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stewbronco View Post
I have no evidence to support this but I think an attempt to cool mechanical pump with a blast tube ( with a shroud if possible) makes sense
I seem to recall that the shroud and blast tube for the mechanical fuel pump is recommended by Vans. I would think itís standard practice. Not perfect but it canít hurt.

Bevan
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  #10  
Old 09-01-2021, 09:50 PM
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Fhuber Fhuber is offline
 
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Location: Maple Grove, MN
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I was having problems with my IO-360 engine chugging, while idling on the ground when the engine is hot. I put fire shield on last summer and saw a big improvement with the idling. I also aggressively lean the mixture on the ground, which also helps with the idling.
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Last edited by Fhuber : 09-01-2021 at 09:50 PM. Reason: mistake
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