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  #31  
Old 05-19-2020, 07:29 AM
PaulvS's Avatar
PaulvS PaulvS is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Western Australia
Posts: 785
Default Build date 9925

I have been drilling on the belly skins beneath the baggage compartment and the seats, there are a lot of ribs and pretty well every cleco in the district has been used. My wife came into the shed today and commented that it looks like an ystervark, which I suppose it does:




This work has been really tedious and slow going because I have been back drilling from under the jig with a long drill bit 1/16", so for each hole I have to come back out from under the jig to drill up to #40 from above and insert a cleco. This sequence is repeated for each hole in the seats and at the ends of the baggage ribs. The method works well though because the skins shift as they are tightened down and pre-drilling the skins would risk drilling into a flute or too close to an edge.

Today I had enough courage to look at exactly when I first started work on the kit. I have started a new log book for recent work, because the original log book is yellowed with age.



That makes today's build date 9925 days since starting the horizontal stab on 17 March 1993...or 27.25 years.

There are still some funny shaped ribs to fit to the baggage compartment but I need to remove the belly skins to trim to where the ribs go, so I have continued on with preparing the forward floor skin for installation. It seems to fit OK at a first pass but I can see that there will be interference at the front of the jig for when I need to put on the lower hinge which attaches the cowl. Here is the floor skin for trial fit, the ends are resting on the first two bulkhead flanges only. It will be drilled to the floor stiffener angles, these are fixed at one end to the firewall however they will only be attached to the wing spar later on once that has been installed, so there are some temporary blocks on the spar attach bulkhead to hold them in place while drilling the floor.



My building companion is very interested in all of this, I think he is planning to build an RV-15!

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Paul vS (yes I'm also a Van)
Building RV-6A #22320 O-320 FP. Wings and tail complete, working on fuselage
Flying my Aeroprakt A-22 STOL and the aero club's RV-9A while I build
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  #32  
Old 12-06-2020, 03:50 AM
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PaulvS PaulvS is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Western Australia
Posts: 785
Default Resuming work

It has been a while since I posted an update and I have been making progress on some other projects, but not so much on the poor old RV.

In June, that was 6 months ago, I completed most of the drilling and fitting of the belly skins, and started on fitting the two forward side skins. I had pre-drilled the skeleton and then planned to back drill through the skins. This worked out well for maintaining edge distances, but some of the floor and baggage ribs had obstructions and this got a bit fiddly. There were some other things on the farm that needed attention (as always) so I had a break from the RV for a while.

I've now picked up again where I Ieft off and completed drilling on the left side skin. It took most of a day to "make holes for rivets" as my wife describes this task. It was convenient to fit some of the clecos from the inside and they seem to hold just as well.

Next step will be the other side skin, and then trimming and forming the compound curve where the fuselage narrows behind the baggage compartment. I am leaving the trimming as late as possible to try and get the best fit.
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Paul vS (yes I'm also a Van)
Building RV-6A #22320 O-320 FP. Wings and tail complete, working on fuselage
Flying my Aeroprakt A-22 STOL and the aero club's RV-9A while I build
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  #33  
Old 12-06-2020, 11:05 AM
C-GRVT C-GRVT is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 324
Default Fuselage construction

Paul,
I remember well when I was at this stage with my 6A - was fun, lots of visible progress.
A few thoughts for your consideration:
1. build the fuselage from the inside out. The goal is that the fitting/placement of the bulkheads leaves no gap between bulkhead and skin, a zero gap results in a smooth riveted skin. I found that the F-608 bulkhead, properly positioned, was too narrow at the bottom corners, I cut the bulkhead at the bottom corners and added a splice plate on each corner to widen the bulkhead to make a perfect fit. Bulkheads can shift or bend as the skin is strapped down, so wooden reinforcements on the webs, and wooden sticks between the bulkheads hold everything in place;
2. It is difficult to avoid a slight gap where skin, upper longeron and bulkheads meet, especially on the F-606 and F-607; tapered shims can take up the gaps. I also squeezed a mixture of flox/epoxy into the remaining gap in a couple of spots, and also used that on the F-6111 reinforcement ribs. Look up "liquid shim" on the Matronics RV-List;
3. You are probably aware, but Van's has the RV-6/6A plans set on DVD, up to date and includes all the "OP" drawings, very helpful downloaded to the laptop.
Bill Brooks,
Ottawa, Canada,
RV-6A finishing
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  #34  
Old 12-06-2020, 05:19 PM
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PaulvS PaulvS is offline
 
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Location: Western Australia
Posts: 785
Default

Thanks Bill.

F-608 was the correct width in my kit but I know that other builders needed to widen it. I did however have trouble with F-606 being too narrow at the bottom and needed to widen it by 1/4" to get the rear side skins to fit.

The seat rib joggles extended too far back from the bulkhead at the main spar and I used epoxy filler to correct the gap and fit the belly skins properly. I still need to do something around F-611 as the fit around there is not very good!

I've got a copy of the latest plans on DVD and took them to be printed out so I have all the amendments in the shop. I will probably also buy the RV-7 plans on USB as a useful reference.

I'd be interested to know how you shimmed the firewall sides for fitting the piano hinges that attach the cowl. The problem I have in that area is that the firewall side flanges are fluted for straigtening, so the piano hinge won't fit flush against the inside of the flange. The plans call for .032 shim under the hinge to allow for the thickness of the cowl. The options appear to be to cut individual shims between the flutes, or use liquid shim?

Thanks,
Paul.
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Paul vS (yes I'm also a Van)
Building RV-6A #22320 O-320 FP. Wings and tail complete, working on fuselage
Flying my Aeroprakt A-22 STOL and the aero club's RV-9A while I build

Last edited by PaulvS : 12-06-2020 at 05:22 PM.
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  #35  
Old 12-07-2020, 01:01 PM
C-GRVT C-GRVT is offline
 
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Posts: 324
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Paul,
I have found the RV-7/7A plan set a useful addition, and am incorporating some of the RV-7A changes and parts; the PC-680 firewall mounted battery, the centre floor cover/heater cover and fuel pump housing which allows wiring and plumbing runs to extend from the spar to the firewall under the cover, eliminating the vertical channel from the panel to the floor, running the vent tubes forward of the F-602, modifying the panel sides to use the RV-7 separate air vent mounting plates, copying the RV-7 panel to forward top skin mounting angles (easier and lighter weight).
Don't know what age your baffle kit is, if you have it, the one Van's uses now for the RV-7 will fit (the cowls are the same) and I understand is an easier build than the earlier one.
I did not have to flute any part of the firewall stainless flange, and am using Skybolt camlock fasteners along the firewall which use a separate mounting strip riveted to the firewall flange. I would think that mounting a hinge to a fluted surface would be similar to mounting a skin to a fluted rib - avoid the flutes in placement of the rivets, if necessary refluting the underlying surface in a pattern that works, if it has to be fluted at all.
Bill Brooks
Ottawa, Canada
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  #36  
Old 12-27-2020, 08:35 PM
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PaulvS PaulvS is offline
 
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Location: Western Australia
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Default Conical bend

Working on the dreaded conical bend where the side skins roll around under the belly in a conical shape. It took most of the day to get one side skin trimmed and partially rolled.

The Vans instructions say to clamp the skin between wooden blocks to make the bend but there is interference between the blocks so I have been using various flat steel bars instead. The main area to watch is the small end of the curve where the radius is about 1/8 inch only, to avoid potentially tearing.

I've looked at a few other completed RVs to see how other people have finished this curve and each one has been slightly different, some look better than others. The best finished one had been stretched with a roller tool along the trailing edge of the curve so I may also try that after I get some roller bearings to fabricate a tool.
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Paul vS (yes I'm also a Van)
Building RV-6A #22320 O-320 FP. Wings and tail complete, working on fuselage
Flying my Aeroprakt A-22 STOL and the aero club's RV-9A while I build
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  #37  
Old 12-31-2020, 03:52 AM
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PaulvS PaulvS is offline
 
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Default Meeting the skins

The fuselage side skins need to meet up with the rear rear skin lower curved corners, but the skins come together at different angles at the point where they overlap and get riveted together. Therefore, there is a (bad) tapered gap.

The plans/manual do not provide any advice on how to deal with this! So... a combination of VAF research for some options, and consulting with a local RV-9 builder lead me to slot and bend some tabs within the overlap area of the rear skins.

Other builders have made tapered shims to solve this problem, but I am happy with how this has turned out, despite thinking and worrying about it quite a bit. And in the new kits, all of the slots and holes are already done for you, how easy is that?!
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Paul vS (yes I'm also a Van)
Building RV-6A #22320 O-320 FP. Wings and tail complete, working on fuselage
Flying my Aeroprakt A-22 STOL and the aero club's RV-9A while I build
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  #38  
Old 12-31-2020, 05:26 AM
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Dan 57 Dan 57 is offline
 
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Location: LSZF
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Default

looks like you're making steady progress, and it's looking good.

I did not build my -6.9, but looking at your pictures brings back memories... building the -4 sure was of course very similar. The 1st thing I learned was not to trim any piece before it had been matched to the next one... and use the plan given measurement solely as vague reference

I remember opening those huge shipping crates... the longest one contained the Phlogiston spar, $$$ well spent. Inside the other crates, only the rims looked like aircraft stuff... the rest was sheetmetal, some of it vaguely pre-bent, angle bar, and those paper bags containing zillions of rivets

Thanks for your reports, educational and interesting! Also happy for you to have found that renewed motivation, well done.
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  #39  
Old 12-31-2020, 06:50 AM
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Red Voodoo Red Voodoo is offline
 
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Paul, I just read through this entire thread. Congratulations on persevering. You're making steady progress... you'll get there. And I now know what a "ystervark" is!
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  #40  
Old 12-31-2020, 03:55 PM
C-GRVT C-GRVT is offline
 
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Posts: 324
Default notching the rear skin

Paul, for this joint I followed a suggestion in the December 1992 RVator (reproduced in "24 years of the RVator") to notch the aft skin and bend it slightly at this joint with good result.
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