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  #1  
Old 01-18-2022, 09:37 AM
MWH265's Avatar
MWH265 MWH265 is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Virginia
Posts: 127
Default Rudder Pedal SB Revision 2

I have my new rudder pedals and am about to dig in. Vans says it's a 6-hour job. Does that sound about right? I realize it depends on what obstacles may be in the way. Did the new bars "fit" without much modification? Also, does it matter which bar is in front of the other, left or right? I believe mine were put in opposite of the plans. Should I change it?

Thanks in advance,
Mike
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  #2  
Old 01-18-2022, 06:39 PM
Scott Hersha Scott Hersha is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Posts: 2,201
Default

Here’s a pic of mine during build up prior to installation in my current RV6 build -

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Upside down of course……. Sorry, you get the idea….
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RV6/2001 built/sold 2005
RV8 Fastback/2008 built/sold 2015
RV4/bought 2016/sold/2017
RV8/2018 built/Sold(sadly)
RV4/bought 2019/sold2021
RV6/Used kit purchased 2021 building
Cincinnati, OH/KHAO
JAN2022
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  #3  
Old 01-18-2022, 07:12 PM
Kyle Boatright Kyle Boatright is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 4,857
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by MWH265 View Post
I have my new rudder pedals and am about to dig in. Vans says it's a 6-hour job. Does that sound about right? I realize it depends on what obstacles may be in the way. Did the new bars "fit" without much modification? Also, does it matter which bar is in front of the other, left or right? I believe mine were put in opposite of the plans. Should I change it?

Thanks in advance,
Mike
The orientation of the bars matters, as I recall. Can't remember why. Hopefully, someone will come along soon with certainty and a reason.

I would tell you that it should take 30 minutes to pull your old bars, an hour to reconfigure the pedals and brake cylinders, and another 30 minutes to reinstall. Double that, 'cause I'm always optimistic, and I get 4 hours.

Here's the key, IMO. Once you unbolt the rudder weldment blocks, slide the assembly as far AFT (not forward) as you can to get as much side to side free play as possible (the fuselage gets wider farther aft) That will let you remove the UHMW blocks on the ends so you can more easily remove the weldments. Reverse the process to reinstall..
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Marietta, GA
2001 RV-6 N46KB
2019(?) RV-10
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  #4  
Old 01-18-2022, 09:58 PM
gasman gasman is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Sonoma County
Posts: 4,341
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MWH265 View Post
I have my new rudder pedals and am about to dig in. Vans says it's a 6-hour job. Does that sound about right? I realize it depends on what obstacles may be in the way. Did the new bars "fit" without much modification? Also, does it matter which bar is in front of the other, left or right? I believe mine were put in opposite of the plans. Should I change it?

Thanks in advance,
Mike
As you can see from the pictures below, the two weldments have different lengths. The short one goes towards the firewall. You can also see that the longer (back) one has the left rudder cable connected to it.

Before you remove your old weldments make sure they were installed properly. If not, you will have trouble mounting your pedals on the new parts.
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  #5  
Old 01-20-2022, 02:00 PM
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MWH265 MWH265 is offline
 
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Posts: 127
Default Thanks

Thanks for the insight. I think this shouldn't be too bad. Hopefully no more than a long day.

Mike
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  #6  
Old 02-22-2022, 03:20 PM
lemerc lemerc is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Spokane WA
Posts: 5
Default Rudder Pedal SB Revision 2

I am in the middle of tackling the rudder pedal modification on my RV-6A. That is, I've finally gotten the whole rudder pedal assembly out of the airplane. It was not fun or easy. Van's Service Bulletin says to expect 6 hours to do the whole job. Good luck! I've got at least that much time just getting the assembly out.

I started by removing anything in the way of being able to position myself under the panel.Then I removed the brake lines, rudder cables, F-6115 Center Bearing Bushing, and anything else that kept me from removing the bolts from the F-6116 Side Bearing Bushings. I only have brakes installed on the left side pedals and was able the leave the brake pedals and master cylinders attached during removal.

After removing the Side Bushing bolts, I could not get the assembly to swing out so it could be removed from the plane. I tried moving the whole assembly as far aft as possible to gain more side clearance. I tried moving one end forward and the other aft. I tried twisting the two tubes so one was almost on top of the other. Nothing would give me enough clearance to swing the assembly out or to remove even one of the Side Bushings.

I thought about different things I could try. The easiest would have been to cut the cross tubes in half, then buy new ones (ouch!). They are now $163 each and presently on backorder. If you are planning on purchasing new ones with the gussets already welded on, cutting would be the easiest solution. I finally came up with the idea of cutting the Side Bushings (they're cheap) so that I could remove the tubes from the bushings giving me extra clearance..

I decided to use a vibrating multi-tool with a new wood saw blade attached. Before starting, I cut a piece of .032 aluminum sheet, much larger than the block, to slip between the fuselage skin and the bushings to protect the fuselage skin. Then, I positioned a Side Bushing so I could carefully make 45 degree cuts at the corners of the aft end of the bushing, straight in toward the fuselage skin,. The idea is to expose the sides of the tube. I had to cut a little remaining nylon (or whatever the bushings are made of) afterward. If you try this, don't push too hard. Concentrate on carefully controlling the tool and let the blade do the cutting work. Take your time! I was then able to push the end of the tube out of the bushing. Same with the other end of the bushing to release the forward tube. I still could not swing the cross tubes free, so I started on the other side. Finally, after releasing just the aft cross tube on the other side, I was able to remove one cross tube at a time out of the plane.

After having the gussets welded on, I envision again not having enough side clearance to get the pre-assembled assembly back in place. Splitting the F-6116 bushings, like what was done to the F-6115 center bushing, seems to be the best solution. Remember that it matters which way the bushings face, as the cross tube holes are not drilled straight into the bushings. I'll have to get creative to match the bolt holes already in the longerons to the bolt holes I'll have to drill in the new bushings. I think I will drill a bolt hole, as per the plans, in the forward end of the bushings first before cutting it in half horizontally. I'll lay the bottom half of each bushing on the longerons first, secure its back and forth movement by inserting a bolt into the drilled hole, then position the cross tubes into place (shortest tube forward). Then I can mark, or possibly partially drill in-place, the aft bolt hole in the bushing using the bolt hole already in the longeron as a guide. Remember that washers must be placed on the bolts, at the split, before bolting down the top half of the bushings to make up for the material removed during the cut. This helps keep the holes round.

Not a simple modification to perform, to be sure, but an important one.
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  #7  
Old 02-22-2022, 03:46 PM
Untainted123 Untainted123 is online now
 
Join Date: Jan 2021
Location: Azle, TX
Posts: 97
Default Takes Forever

I just completed my pedal reinforcement in my RV-6 yesterday. The right pedal bar goes forward, the left pedal/bar aft. They are a bear to get out, and you need to mark the nylon blocks so you can put them back in the same way they came out.

What made a huge difference in getting them back in way easier was to saw the side blocks in half, and then replace what the kerf of the saw took out with washers (thin or thick depending on your saw blade, I used a thin bandsaw). Also, it helps to align the washers with a bolt and super glue the washers down so you aren't fighting that too when reinstalling. Then, it's a matter of inserting them back in.

When I got them out, the hardest thing was getting enough room side to side to get the block off the end of the 2 bars, since getting 2 bars maneuvered out was way harder.

All in I think the job was closer to 20 hours, but while I waited on a friend to weld them up for me, I did a small panel upgrade.

I ordered the replacement pedals on January 11, since mine had completely broken (do the SB!), but they are _still_ on backorder, so I had mine repaired and reinforced instead, and will monitor until I get the Van's ones.
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  #8  
Old 02-23-2022, 01:34 PM
abwaldal@gmail.com abwaldal@gmail.com is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Battle Ground WA
Posts: 465
Default rudder peddle assembly pain

I have a 1991 RV-6 kit and I followed the plans that said to cut the support blocks in half before you put them in.
Now to my problem I have solved.
I can guarantee it took longer than 6 hours to take R and R the peddles out of my RV-6A
Mostly because I didn't build it. The builder didn't see it necessary to cut the blocks in half. Also ran stuff under the peddle pipes.
It was a holy @&#& day. VERY hard to get the peddle assemblies out with solid bearing blocks.
I felt like I was going to have cut a hole in the fuse or cut the the assemblies in half and buy new.
I got it done and Russ welded them up and did a great job.
Art
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  #9  
Old 03-02-2022, 12:06 PM
JW969 JW969 is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2022
Location: Nashville
Posts: 7
Default Ruder Pedal SB

I had the welding done locally and had a local mechanic re-install. I was trying to share photos, but could not get them to upload.
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  #10  
Old 03-12-2022, 01:16 AM
lemerc lemerc is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Spokane WA
Posts: 5
Default Rudder pedal mod. welding

Here is a photo of my rudder pedal mod. after the gussets were attached. I am not a welder and chose to hire it done by a locally well known professional welder.
He indicated he was reluctant to "weld" the gussets on because of their thinness and because of the material (4130 chromoly). According to him, welding the thin 4130, which includes melting the base metal, could produce too much heat and compromise the original welds, likely causing them or the surrounding area to become brittle. He suggested that he TIG braze the gussets on using silicon-bronze rod and, even then, use copper heat sinks to help quickly carry away some of the heat. Brazing requires less heat because the base material does not have to be melted. When asked about the strength of the brazing, he said that as long as the gussets were brazed all the way around, it would be plenty strong. I agreed to his recommendation. I'm not suggesting that everyone should do this, but am suggesting that there appears to be more to this than just grabbing your Harbor Freight wire feed MIG welder and going at it.
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