Help with primer issue!

[mike newall]

Your local paint supplier should sell Panel Wipe. It is a slow solvent that de greases and removes silicone prior to painting.

Maroon Scotch, wipe down with panel wipe, paint. Never had an issue and we are on a car 50/50 mix etch primer which sticks like the proverbial !

Agree with previous - flash coat, then fuller coat always best. Rattle can most of our small bits and angle - don't forget to clear the nozzle with a quick spray with the tin upside down as the last pass. Stops clogging.

3M 4251 mask is great - specifically for organic solvents. Replace every 6 months and keep in the bag sealed. Around $25 a time.

[BillL]

I am surprised metal-prep was not mentioned. It is easy and quick, just rinse with distilled water and blow dry with non-oily air.

I think Larry (wire jock) has done the best posts of hands-on research using non chemical cleaning with his Bon-Ami method.

[lipper03]

Originally Posted by 97swede

Thanks everybody for the help. A good cleaning and light coats worked perfectly. I used two light coats of self etching primer then top coated with EZ Coat. The stiffeners look great and are well protected now!

Just curious, why both primers?

[97swede]

Originally Posted by lipper03

Just curious, why both primers?

I read that SES says that the EZCoat is a better topcoat, with a tougher finish that is less permeable. They say that the self etching should be used as a primer coat. Ironically, both cans say they provide corrosion resistance, but I figured it wouldn’t hurt to go with SES’ recommendation.

[lipper03]

Originally Posted by 97swede

I read that SES says that the EZCoat is a better topcoat, with a tougher finish that is less permeable. They say that the self etching should be used as a primer coat. Ironically, both cans say they provide corrosion resistance, but I figured it wouldn’t hurt to go with SES’ recommendation.

Interesting, do you remember where did you found that? I did read about ezcoat being better as a primer without a top coat then se without a top coat. Since I'm using EZcoat only is why I'm curious. We are all trying to learn, thanks!

[gasman]

Originally Posted by mike newall

Your local paint supplier should sell Panel Wipe. It is a slow solvent that de greases and removes silicone prior to painting.

Maroon Scotch, wipe down with panel wipe, paint. Never had an issue and we are on a car 50/50 mix etch primer which sticks like the proverbial !

Agree with previous - flash coat, then fuller coat always best. Rattle can most of our small bits and angle - don't forget to clear the nozzle with a quick spray with the tin upside down as the last pass. Stops clogging.

3M 4251 mask is great - specifically for organic solvents. Replace every 6 months and keep in the bag sealed. Around $25 a time.

I gave up that procedure 20 years ago. I just wipe the nozzle with a rag, spot sprayed with Berryman B-12 or CRC Brakleen, and have never had a clogged nozzle or loss of pressure.

[jls32]

What's everyone using for gloves? I use a scotch-brite pad with acetone for prepping parts for P60G2, and the nitrile gloves disintegrate within seconds. I bought heavy duty gloves from HD and those also were destroyed before I finished my first part.

[skelrad]

Originally Posted by jls32

What's everyone using for gloves? I use a scotch-brite pad with acetone for prepping parts for P60G2, and the nitrile gloves disintegrate within seconds. I bought heavy duty gloves from HD and those also were destroyed before I finished my first part.

Acetone shortens the life of gloves, but I can't say that I've ever had it actually be a problem. But I'm sure gloves break down faster if you're using acetone while you scuff parts with scotch brite. I personally just scotch brite dry (I used to use scotch brite with acid etch, but after experimenting found very little practical difference in adhesion by adding the acid etch), then use the acetone separately to clean up the surfaces. I'm not sure there's a huge benefit of using acetone WITH the scotch brite, since I doubt you can get away without still having a separate cleaning step once you're done scuffing anyway. So my $.02 would be don't combine the acetone/scuff. Gloves last a long time when all you're doing is wiping parts down after the scuffing is done. You don't have to soak parts with acetone, so your gloves shouldn't be swimming in the stuff regardless of method.

[PaulvS]

There should be no need to use anything as strong as acetone for degreasing kit parts. The vapours are also bad for your health.

My suggestion to prep for priming is as follows:

1) Deburr holes and smooth/round edges as per normal practice.

2) Degrease using a specific wax/silicone/grease remover, this may be naptha based. It is friendly to nitrile gloves. Use a clean cloth or paper towels, not scotch brite. Scotch brite at this stage will spread the dissolved oil and grease into the scratched surface.

3) Remove the oxidation using maroon scotch brite with water and a few drops of mild detergent. The water will sheet off when the oxide is removed. Rinse and dry the parts.

4) Within six hours (to avoid re-oxidation) wipe down the parts with methylated spirits and clean towels just before spraying the primer.

Clean gloves should be used to handle the parts through all of the above so as to avoid contamination with body oils.

[Jslow2]

Originally Posted by jls32

What's everyone using for gloves? I use a scotch-brite pad with acetone for prepping parts for P60G2, and the nitrile gloves disintegrate within seconds. I bought heavy duty gloves from HD and those also were destroyed before I finished my first part.

Whatever work has 🤣