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  #561  
Old 05-13-2021, 05:35 PM
David Paule David Paule is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 4,993
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Time for the side panels. Looking through the various RV-3 cockpit photos I have, it looks like there are many ways to do this.

This is what the plans suggest. Here, the cover is not in place.



This has no storage and no armrest. Thereís plenty of room for the controls including the flap handle.

I added an armrest. The orange dots are magnets. Theyíve been invaluable with this, letting me move things around without drilling cleco holes.



Didnít seem to be any reason to have both horizontal parts in there so after a bit of trimmingÖ.



Then I trimmed the cover and added it, too.



Thereís room for a shallow, narrow recess in the armrest. Havenít decided what it would be good for, though.

After drilling, I have a cleco farm.



Iím in the middle of dimpling, priming, adding the coverís end angles, etc.

A neighbor has an RV-3. He dropped by to show his friend my project. She's trying out the Confor foam I got because I was tired of sitting on hard pink construction foam. There's still no lumbar support; the back cushion is still pink construction foam.



Dave
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  #562  
Old 07-04-2021, 08:05 AM
David Paule David Paule is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 4,993
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I was working on the right armrest and decided that it would be a good time to install the right pedal assembly, too. When I removed the pedal assembly I found some poorly-set rivets at the lower right firewall fitting, a rather important area. Turns out that the left side pretty much matches these.

A friend came over and helped me re-rivet these. We riveted the lefthand armrest assembly and the throttle and trim parts that go there, and I crawled back into the tailcone and we did a little touch-up work on some of those rivets too.

I drilled all the mounting holes in the avionics shelf and integral switch panel, and painted the switch panel face.

The right armrest has been interesting. It needs to hold the Mile High oxygen metering device and the headset jacks. And since I have an autopilot, it needs to actually be an armrest. Deciding where to put the headphone jacks is a good example of what needs to go where. A couple of pilots whose I respect advised me to put the jacks in the ďfall lineĒ of the cable from the headset. That would be at or near the aft end of the armrest, and that would preclude use of it when the AP is engaged. The headset I plan to use, a Lightspeed Zulu, has an external battery box (and no, Iím not going to use a Lemo jack to preserve compatibility with my other airplane). With some kluging, I was able to accommodate the cable and battery assembly. Then I realized that I have an inch or so between me and the right hand armrest. The upper cable and its battery box fits nicely there, and itís a decent run to the very front of the armrest where the jacks will go. Problem solved.

The armrest will have a hinged lid. Havenít gotten that far yet.

One frustrating thing with this armrest has been using the magnets to hold it all together while I fit things. If I donít tape the magnets in place, they often jumped away somewhere. If I did tape them, theyíd still jump away, after getting tangled in the tape. Some adult language has been said.



Back in 2016, after reading about military surplus single-person oxygen systems for sale in a VAF thread now lost to me, I was able to buy a PHODS on eBay. This is a Portable Helicopter Oxygen Delivery System. Itís complete with a tiny oxygen cylinder, cannula and a Mile High metering device. The device is a version of Mile Highís O2D1 device. Since the cylinder was way too small for my use and the cannula too military, I needed everything except the metering device itself.

Mile High sent me a new cannula, tubing, a few fittings, and an XCR-1P regulator, which will fit the CGA-540 valve on the cylinder. After a bit of consideration, I assembled it. This is a complete one-person oxygen system except for not having a cylinder. The cylinder I chose, their KF-011, has a fifteen year service life, so even though Iím not planning on keeping the plane, I thought Iíd hold off on that for now. Thereís a touch of denial in that decision since my own life probably wonít be much longer than that and certainly I wonít be flying then, regardless of keeping the RV-3B.



The metering device will go about a third of the way from the front. I need to build a cradle for it since the armrest cavity is too deep.

The rep at Mile High said that Iíd be able to attach this to my present cylinder in my C180 and verify that it works.

Happy Fourth!

Dave
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  #563  
Old 07-17-2021, 11:06 AM
David Paule David Paule is offline
 
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Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 4,993
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Been working on the right hand armrest. Lately most of the time has been spent making it gray. I remembered that my mentor used 3Mís VHB double-stick tape for some things and bought some.

The bottom shelf of the cavity needed to be attached. The options were glue, rivets, VHB or just leave the magnets on. I decided upon VHB. Here, the tape is on the shelf's outboard flange. The bottle of alcohol is just a handy weight.



I clecoed the cover to the shelf so that I could use the four tabs that were riveted to the bulkheads for alignment. The shelf is the narrow gray part on the unpainted cover above (since painted). Once the tape is on, it ainít coming off. This photo shows the installation with the VHBís cover removed.



Hereís the shelf mounted. No holes, no rivets, no mess.



The snap bushings hold that cable that's coiled up and feed it into the spar bulkhead to the right. There are still some additional wires to be added as I install things.

The main point with the VHB tape is that itís like real estate. Location, location, location. Get it right. It holds quite well. Don't know that I'd use it for real structure, but it's fine for this sort of thing, and speeds the installation. I should have used it on the left side.

There are a number of VHB tape types and sizes available. I use 1/2Ē wide RP16.

The armrest is still just a cavity. Some more work is needed.

Dave
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  #564  
Old 07-17-2021, 07:42 PM
David Paule David Paule is offline
 
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Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 4,993
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Kind of bouncing around the fuselage now. This is the avionics shelf and this afternoonís job was to glue on the Click-Bond nutplates. Why this now? That bundle of cable in the previous post terminates on the avionics shelf.

The nutplates come with a silicone stem thatís used both for alignment and to tension the nutplate to the mounting surface. In this photo the colors are:

Yellow ones are 3/16
Pink for #8
Blue for #6
And Green for 1/4, not shown.

Pretty arenít they?



Click-Bond sells several types of adhesive. Some versions come in inexpensive individual packets and some come in dispensers. Most builders, I think, use the packets - Spruce sells nutplate kits including them. I had some 2216 B/A and knew that would work, so I used some here. The main advantage of the Click-Bond nutplates, or course, is no riveting.

You may notice a couple of screws where there ought to be a silicone stem. In two instances, I pulled the stem too hard and it popped loose. The screw serves to locate the nutplate while the glue sets up.

I suspect that ordinary nutplates can use the stem for location and am saving them for that purpose.Donít know how many times they may turn out to be reusable but I suppose Iíll find out.

The next photo shows the bottom of the avionics shelf with most of the 1/4Ē nutplates in. Green stems, as I mentioned.



Next, I installed the throttle and ran the push to talk wires through the belly. While I was at it, I pulled that coiled bundle through the snap bushings and up the side bulkhead.



I havenít yet finalized the push to talk wire path on the left side of the cockpit, so thatís pending. The wire that runs past the cable bundle by itself is the rudder cable. The push to talk wiring includes one piece that goes to the microphone jack and another that goes to ground. Since the mic jack is above the shelf, or will be when I install it, the white wire aims at that. The black ground wire is in the inside of the spar bulkhead along with the rest of Ďem.

Dave
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  #565  
Old 07-25-2021, 06:57 PM
David Paule David Paule is offline
 
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Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 4,993
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Climate change - until this year or last, the hottest that the shop ever got was 80 F. Now Iím seeing 82 or 83 every day.

Hereís the final version of the avionics shelf layout. What I have is on it. Iím still missing the EFIS back-up battery, the EFIS itself and the com radio, everything is currently attached to the avionics shelf. Okay, the cabin heat cable is still missing. Lots of remaining opportunity to help keep the economy perking along. Iím not using the large costly heavy Dynon ADS-B In. Instead Iím using a PingBuddy thatís about the size of a postage stamp.



Iíve started wiring it up. Iím using Velcro ties to hold the bundles together as I build them, and carbon kite spars as a guide for positioning the bundles. Those add clutter to the photos but a substantial amount of organization to the project.

The space around the switches is limited. Thereís plenty of room for terminals and wires but no room to get tools in. Iím building in service loops as I go, and itís a bit more organized than is apparent. This picture shows a number of the Click Bond adhesive bonded nutplates - I like those.



At this time, much of the wire and fasteners are here. And Iíve making a list of more needed. Iím in the period where there have been multiple small orders per day. Knew I should have bought shipping company stock back when I started this project.

Here are the schematics that I have so far, just for reference. They change from time to time. For example, Iíve added notes whether the switch keyway should be up to down (up for DPDT and down for SPST switches) that hasnít gotten to these images. Also, the wingtip light vendor is not final and could change. But the wire colors are - they are already in the wings.

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Dave
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  #566  
Old 07-25-2021, 07:17 PM
PaulvS's Avatar
PaulvS PaulvS is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Western Australia
Posts: 713
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Looks good Dave, you are making steady progress. Couple of questions:
- what software are you using to draw the electrical schematics?
- how are you planning to "audio mix" the stall warner and the EFIS warning and the comm audio?
Cheers
Paul.
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Paul vS (yes I'm also a Van)
Building RV-6A #22320 O-320 FP. Wings and tail complete, working on fuselage
Flying my Aeroprakt A-22 STOL and the aero club's RV-9A while I build
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  #567  
Old 07-25-2021, 07:58 PM
David Paule David Paule is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 4,993
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I'm using a program called Graphic for Mac. I get to make all my own symbols. I keep a separate "schematic" page just as a symbol repository.

The stall warning output goes into the Trig TY91 com radio which can apparently handle low-fidelity sound inputs, according to the manual. So far I have no plans for EFIS audible warnings, although I do have a page of information about combining those inputs if I want to. Let me restate the "no plans" comment I just made. It's not a lack of plans for it, it's an active desire to avoid the implementation of it. I don't want audible EFIS warnings. I want them visual on the display or, if really really important, to turn on a warning light.

Dave
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  #568  
Old 08-16-2021, 12:39 PM
David Paule David Paule is offline
 
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Location: Boulder, CO
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Iíve done a number of little things. Among them,

Wired the avionics shelf, except for the remote devices like autopilot servos and lights.

Hooked up the trim handle.

Installed the fuel pump, although still without the plumbing.

Installed the fuel valve.

Sort of off topic but it caused a weekís delay, put my Cessna 180 through its annual inspection.

Removed the primer and deburred and dimpled for the com antenna doubler.

Connected the push to talk switch wiring to the overall harness.

The PTT wiring from the throttle has a loop for flexibility, partly hidden below. If you look closely you can see the Dsub pins under some clear shrink tube thatís a service disconnect.



The fuel pump wiring, 18 ga, has a similar disconnect under the red shrink tube. In this case the pins are Molex.



The fuel pumpís wires are laced to clips that I glued under the spar bulkhead top flange. I need to add some chafe protection there.

For the fuel valve, I used fuel lube on the o-rings, applied sparingly with a toothpick. Instead of staking the screws, I used Permatex Threadlocker Blue.

Dave
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  #569  
Old 08-20-2021, 06:26 PM
David Paule David Paule is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 4,993
Default Revised Schematics

When I was wiring up the avionics shelf, I found a number of fairly minor errors in the schematics, so I updated them. Here are the updates. I'm adding a schematic for the fuel system.

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Attachment 14881

I guess you'll need to click on the link, it didn't open directly. Sorry!

Dave

Last edited by David Paule : 08-20-2021 at 06:28 PM.
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  #570  
Old 08-20-2021, 07:35 PM
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PaulvS PaulvS is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Western Australia
Posts: 713
Default Schematics

Hi Dave,

I think there could be a minor error/typo on the lighting schematic, which shows both 18 ga and 20 ga on the line connecting to the left Orion Red acl. Maybe you are testing us.

Couple of questions:
Is there an intention to insulate the 1 inch copper bars that carry power to the starter solenoid and from the alternator?
Do you have the stall warner in addition to, or in lieu of the Dynon AOA, and what's the rationale?

Thanks for posting the updates, it's interesting to see the progress.

Paul.
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Paul vS (yes I'm also a Van)
Building RV-6A #22320 O-320 FP. Wings and tail complete, working on fuselage
Flying my Aeroprakt A-22 STOL and the aero club's RV-9A while I build
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