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  #11  
Old 12-10-2020, 06:46 AM
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LouFly LouFly is offline
 
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<Edited by moderator to conform to VAF rules> Planning some crack repairs tomorrow. Current plan is to sand off the rest of the micro I left on there, bevel the cracks in x and y, and use flox in the joint and on the interior and flox with a little micro on the exterior. Still pondering.
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Last edited by rv7boy : 12-10-2020 at 06:51 PM. Reason: Violation of VAF rules...please read
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  #12  
Old 12-10-2020, 10:46 AM
Zero4Zulu Zero4Zulu is online now
 
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I had a similar situation. I cleaned it up, beveled the edges where I could and added layers of glass both sides of the lamination. Also, in some places added some rivets to help strengthen the area. Not flying yet but I think the rivets will help hold it together.
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  #13  
Old 01-17-2021, 10:02 AM
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LouFly LouFly is offline
 
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Looking for help from RV-6 builders...

Pretty pleased with fiberglass progress. Looking to do the job right --

Roger on bonding the piano hinge. Proseal, JB Weld. Probably use proseal as I think it will be more pliable.

Van's PDF from the CD, drawing 63 do:

1. 'Section R-R' calls out a .020 shim under the piano hinge. (I didn't remove one). It's logical that it would be used and might reduce stress. Strangely the note says "Only on side hinges"(?) Dont wanna think too hard but seems to be it would be used only on the *bottom* hinges. Maybe they meant "this side?"

2. There are notes with details "R1" and "R2" but those are blank in my PDF? My full set of plans from '99-94 don't seem to include this page; looks like it was a later update.
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  #14  
Old 01-17-2021, 10:25 AM
Kyle Boatright Kyle Boatright is offline
 
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The shims under the hinges are to compensate for the different thicknesses of the stackup on the firewall (skin, firewall, <shim>) vs the thickness of the cowling. Use whatever shim is necessary to make an even transition from the cowl to the firewall.
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  #15  
Old 01-17-2021, 10:54 AM
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Skid Skid is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LouFly View Post
Looking for help from RV-6 builders...

Pretty pleased with fiberglass progress. Looking to do the job right --

Roger on bonding the piano hinge. Proseal, JB Weld. Probably use proseal as I think it will be more pliable.

Van's PDF from the CD, drawing 63 do:

1. 'Section R-R' calls out a .020 shim under the piano hinge. (I didn't remove one). It's logical that it would be used and might reduce stress. Strangely the note says "Only on side hinges"(?) Dont wanna think too hard but seems to be it would be used only on the *bottom* hinges. Maybe they meant "this side?"

2. There are notes with details "R1" and "R2" but those are blank in my PDF? My full set of plans from '99-94 don't seem to include this page; looks like it was a later update.
I ditched the piano hinge on the bottom of the cowl a couple years ago. There seemed to be too much vibration and the piano hinge failed on both sides.
I removed the piano hinge from the cowl and the fuselage.
I cut 2 pieces of aluminum, .090" I believe, and riveted it to the fuselage where the hinge had been, shimming as needed.
I then drilled 3 locations through the cowl and the aluminum strips. I mounted nut plates for #8 screws on the aluminum plates. I installed #8 SS screws with machined washers from Skybolt.
I also added 2 screws to the plate that "traps" the bottom of the cowl around the nose gear.

I have not seen any cracking to date.
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  #16  
Old 01-17-2021, 11:53 AM
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Thanks Skid and Kyle. The #8 screws are definite food for thought. I have been close to making peace with getting the bottom hinges in and out, threading around the exhaust pipes, on my back in hot, oily area. Every oil change, every time time I needed access.

But just close to it. Was not there yet.
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  #17  
Old 01-17-2021, 01:47 PM
Kyle Boatright Kyle Boatright is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skid View Post
I mounted nut plates for #8 screws on the aluminum plates. I installed #8 SS screws with machined washers from Skybolt.
I also added 2 screws to the plate that "traps" the bottom of the cowl around the nose gear.

I have not seen any cracking to date.
I did the same thing (sort of) from the get-go. I have 10 screws across the bottom of the cowl, attaching it to strips I riveted to the firewall. Four #6 screws plus one #8 screw (adjacent to the air exit) on each side.

No problems in 20 years.
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  #18  
Old 01-17-2021, 02:18 PM
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one problem for a flying RV is that it looks like it will be really difficult to get a rivet squeezer between the lateral member of the engine mount and the flange at the bottom of the firewall. Stbd side is OK, but missing an eyelet on the port side. May use a single tab blind riveted for a #8 at the air exit and leave the hinge for now, unless there is a better way.
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  #19  
Old 01-17-2021, 03:32 PM
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My hinge didnít go that far toward the center as there is nothing on the cowl to interface with. I have a narrow squeezer, but maybe not that narrow, remember the hinge "loops" will not be there. Can you get a small bucking bar in the space?
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  #20  
Old 06-27-2021, 07:55 PM
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LouFly LouFly is offline
 
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With help from VAF, Vetterman and others-- have made a lot of progress and helped also with my confidence in solving problems with the '6.

1. used the rubber hose / stainless tube exhaust mount. After 30 hr seems like it's a permanent fix.

2. replaced the bottom piano hinges with alum backing and 8 nutplates. Changed the oil today - night and day easier to get the cowl off.

3. Between the 2nd heat muff and the reflective materials, no more burning inside the cowl-- looks as nice as when I put it in.

4. Merged the warped bottom scoop into the lower cowl and learned a lot about composite fabrication

Thanks...
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Last edited by LouFly : 06-27-2021 at 07:58 PM.
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