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  #51  
Old 05-03-2021, 05:23 PM
BillL BillL is offline
 
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Location: Central IL
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Sam, For a couple of decades I worked on steel (hobby) dents on auto bodies. I read every book I could find but never could get the hammer welding down. Then I saw Kent White at OSH in about 2000 and discovered what I was doing wrong. He took the hammer and a dolly and whacked one on the other with a whale of a hammer swing - i just did not know to hit it that hard. Now, you want a hammer off dolly technique, even a wood dolly working from the edge of the dent to the center.

I wish you success, but 2024 is very hard to form compared to 6061T6. A low crown hammer would be a good start. I tried, and failed, on some scrap 2024 pieces to effectively shrink it while removing a test dent, but I never had the "knack".

Kent White might be a good reference
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  #52  
Old 05-03-2021, 07:40 PM
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Sam Buchanan Sam Buchanan is offline
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Bill, I am definitely not a tinsmith!

Here is what I've done thus far. A buck was built up from 3/4" laminations.

This was inserted into the leading edge along with some all-thread so the buck could be forced up into the leading edge. I was able to hammer the crease at the very leading edge back into alignment with the rest of the leading edge. At this point there are still two fairly minor dents.

I will not be replacing the entire skin, there are no cracks in the skin. The dents are now shallow enough that they could be filled if I wish. I'll probably just fly for a while until I decide what the final repair will be.
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Last edited by Sam Buchanan : 05-04-2021 at 06:31 PM.
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  #53  
Old 05-04-2021, 03:54 PM
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Sam Buchanan Sam Buchanan is offline
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Massaged the skin some more by applying pressure with hand and digits and got it to the point I'm ok with returning the RV-6 to service. If I decide to take the repair to 10/10ths the remaining ripples can be filled or a small flush patch installed then filled.

I'll may just apply a small duck decal over the wound....1st kill.
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  #54  
Old 05-04-2021, 04:07 PM
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jcarne jcarne is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sam Buchanan View Post
Massaged the skin some more by applying pressure with hand and digits and got it to the point I'm ok with returning the RV-6 to service. If I decide to take the repair to 10/10ths the remaining ripples can be filled or a small flush patch installed then filled.

I'll may just apply a small duck decal over the wound....1st kill.
Dang Sam, that doesn't look half bad! Nice work
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  #55  
Old 05-04-2021, 04:18 PM
tracy tracy is offline
 
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Default Buck

Hey Sam, hold on to that buck, I may need to rent it some day.
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  #56  
Old 05-04-2021, 04:50 PM
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The ball bearing and magnet trick may get anything remaining smooth.

example:

https://www.instructables.com/Magnet...-Surface-Dent/
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  #57  
Old 05-04-2021, 05:24 PM
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Sam Buchanan Sam Buchanan is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by emsvitil View Post
The ball bearing and magnet trick may get anything remaining smooth.

example:

https://www.instructables.com/Magnet...-Surface-Dent/
That is an interesting technique. However, the link describes removing dents in brass and aluminum cans. The 2024 wing skin is tough stuff and once creased and stretched is very reluctant to straighten back out. What is left of the damage on my wing is due to the metal being stretched by the impact of the duck. I'm not skilled enough to figure out how to relieve those stresses.
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  #58  
Old 05-04-2021, 06:12 PM
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https://www.tinmantech.com/articles/...rts/part-2.php
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  #59  
Old 05-04-2021, 06:28 PM
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Sam Buchanan Sam Buchanan is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by emsvitil View Post
A quote from your link:

"Since cold shrinking is almost impossible on tempered aluminum....."

Nope, I'm done but thank you for trying to help.
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  #60  
Old 05-04-2021, 06:35 PM
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Wow, that DIY repair turned out GREAT! Nice job!
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