Mine was wired 15 years ago. So after a quick check of the manual + from memory what I did on my -7 was to use a separate master relay and I wired the alternator via a ANL fuse firewall forward to the switched side of the master relay.
(Firewall Fwd battery, master and starter relay’s)
This means the alternator circuit is protected however if it blows in flight you can’t reset it. (My thinking is that if it blows, it does it for a reason and you shouldn’t be resetting high amp circuits in flight)
Also it reduces the length of the heavy high amp wire needed and the need for another pass through in the firewall.
The control circuit for the Alt comes off the 5A spade connector on the EXP bus, which allows for switching the alt on/off.
According to the installation manual if you wire the alternator to the input peg on the EXP bus you need to use a circuit breaker or fuse.
Also looking at the wiring diagram for the EXP bus the battery and Alt are effectively connected anyway so putting the Alternator on the same post would make no difference. (This would only be an issue if you were using the master relay built onto the board itself)
The hot battery bus wire needs to be connected either to the live side of the master relay or directly to the battery. If you have a master relay in the back once it’s turned off there will be no power coming into the EXP bus.
I feel your pain I recently had to replace a shunt in a friends Rv-6 and working upside down one handed behind the panel wasn’t my idea of fun!!!
RV7 G-PBEC Flying
RV10 Final assembly
Last edited by kiwipete : 12-01-2021 at 07:29 AM.