Just got my SB kit and I ordered a set of HS-405 root ribs to replace my old ones (long story). The ribs that came are part # HS00005 and look different than the old. The rib flange has 3 serrations and these is no joggle on the flange front.
Has Vans changed the root rib design for the SB now for newer emp kits being sent now? The SB instructions don't show the newer rib style if this is the case on pg 8.
Anyone else receive this new style and do you have pics of it in assembly yet?
Thanks,
Yep, they have changed the HS 405 to HS00005. It is different. Trying to work out what way it goes around ? Not any docs or pics of it. Any takers ?
The HS-00005 (if I am remembering part #'s correctly) is not relevant to doing a field installation of the S.B. on a finished horizontal stabilizer.
It is a slightly shorter rib to account for the added thickness of the HS-00001 or HS-00003 Doubler so that trimming the fwd rib flange and replacing it with a piece of bent angle is not necessary.
It is intended for new builds only because of the difficulty of properly positioning and match drilling to skins that are already dimpled.
I just finished doing the SB and I'm in a position to comment on this. I have some pictures, too. My HS had the older HS-405 ribs. I got them all drilled out and proceeded to cut the end flanges off, per the directions. Like a big dummy, I cut off the wrong end on one of them. (This is easy to do, they look so similar. Pay attention and be careful!) Rather than rivet a new flange on both ends, I opted to just buy a new one from Vans. I didn't know they had changed to new HS-00005 until I went back to work and noticed the differences.
The older style didn't have the relief notches that the new one has. It required more work to bend the flanges to 90? and flute them to straighten out the rib so it wasn't warped or twisted. The new style is very nice in this regard. The flanges are perfectly bent at 90?, no fluting required.
These parts are among the few in the kit that aren't pre-punched, so Scott is right... there is potential difficulty in positioning and drilling to skins that are already dimpled. If you've ever noticed, dimpled holes become slightly larger than the drilled #40 hole, so careful drilling techniques are necessary to make sure the new holes you drill are centered under the dimpled holes in the skin.
I wish I had known that these new ribs are slightly shorter to account for the thickness of the doubler. The first thing I did when I got back in the shop was to cut off the forward flange and proceed with the directions. I could have saved myself all that trouble! Anyway, it's done and here are some pictures:
The start of the project... lots of rivets to drill out. Here are all 4 ribs after successfully removing them. (I know... I have mis-matched primer. New builder at the time
)
Here's the new rib, being carefully drilled into place. It was nice not to have to do any fluting or bending of the flanges. Note that the doubler is already positioned and clamped in place as well.
Later on, the rib is now deburred, dimpled, and primed as normal. The doubler has been riveted in place. Now comes the clamping and drilling of the new end flange piece. As I said above, I wish I had known that I could have avoided this if I had known that the flange was made a bit shorter to accommodate the thickness of the doubler!
When I got all that work finished and the new flanges riveted to the ribs, here they are before final installation back in the HS. Interesting side-by-side comparison of the new with the old.
And finally, here's the new rib, riveted in place.
Just for comparison, here's the old one back in place as well, on the right side.
In the end, it turned out great. I'm very happy to have this done.