rvanstory
Well Known Member
Well, they say 3rd time's a charm!!! For all you "average" builders (like me) that struggled with the trim tab bends, I FINALLY found a solution that worked very well for me. Thought I'd share it in case you are approaching that step in the plans (9-16).
My struggle was with the suggested Van's "wedge". Both times the wedge would slip (bottom 1st try, and top 2nd try) that damaged the skins. In spite of my best efforts with 2-sided tape. The third try NOT using the wedges worked!
Here's the method that worked for me (on 3rd try!!!):
Step 1. Take a flat piece of steel and round the edges (to not crease the bend) and taper one end to fit up into the trailing edge bend.
Step 2. Clamp the skin between the steel bar and edge of work bench. Let the edge of skin and bar overhang the edge of workbench slightly. It helps when tapping the bend with a rubber headed hammer. Once clamped, tap (slowly) the edge over with a rubber headed mallet. For the small tapered end, finish it's bend by slowly tapping with a upholstery nail hammer. Using the steel bar instead of the wedge allows you to slightly "over bend" the tab to allow for the spring-back effect.
I also found bending the OUTER tab first worked best. By bending the outer tab first, the two skins came together nice and flush against each other. Hope this helps someone else avoid the frustrations I've had with this simple little part of the build!!
My struggle was with the suggested Van's "wedge". Both times the wedge would slip (bottom 1st try, and top 2nd try) that damaged the skins. In spite of my best efforts with 2-sided tape. The third try NOT using the wedges worked!
Here's the method that worked for me (on 3rd try!!!):
Step 1. Take a flat piece of steel and round the edges (to not crease the bend) and taper one end to fit up into the trailing edge bend.
Step 2. Clamp the skin between the steel bar and edge of work bench. Let the edge of skin and bar overhang the edge of workbench slightly. It helps when tapping the bend with a rubber headed hammer. Once clamped, tap (slowly) the edge over with a rubber headed mallet. For the small tapered end, finish it's bend by slowly tapping with a upholstery nail hammer. Using the steel bar instead of the wedge allows you to slightly "over bend" the tab to allow for the spring-back effect.
I also found bending the OUTER tab first worked best. By bending the outer tab first, the two skins came together nice and flush against each other. Hope this helps someone else avoid the frustrations I've had with this simple little part of the build!!