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Painting (Top Coat) Intersections of Fairing, Fuel Tanks, Screw Fasteners & Blind Rivets Assembled

gmcjetpilot

Well Known Member
My other thread is about painting (exterior top coat) before putting wings on. As stated engine cowl, flight controls, wheel pants typically akk come off always to paint airplane.

I plan on painting with wing tanks installed. Also my wing, horz stab, vert stab, rudder fairings will be "semi-permanently" attached with blind fasteners. Should I paint before installing them? I think that might not work well but what say you?

Fiberglass part "body work" and prep, priming, was done and plan on attaching to structure (with blinds). Blinds have a hole in the middle. I will fill the blind ( hole for pull stem) with body filler. The rivet WILL BE visible but look more like a solid than a pull rivet. That worked out OK last RV. I hate it when RV builders use body fill (bondo) on all the joints and seams to hide it. I like my metal plane to look metal. I see this done and often it has a crack. Terrible looking and adds weight.

I know if the fuel tank / wing / stab / rudder fairings ever have to come off, the paint will be damaged and need touching up..... Fasteners will need to be drilled out, and any paint bridge in the gap between fairing and aircraft may chip and crack the paint. ANY TIPS or Suggestions.

Same with fuel tanks and their screws. I recall some tape the head of screw and /orback out a few tuns? That seems iffy as far as paint coverage if not careful when applying paint (runs, dry areas). I am of the mind just paint over screws. I know some people use a tool to CUT the paint around fastener heed to reduce paint damage if they have to remove the tanks..... You have tips and tricks or different approach, let me know?
 
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Anything you might remove for your annual condition inspection is good to paint off the airplane (fairings, wheel pants, inspection panels, etc) I like to use stainless screws for those parts. If a screw ever starts looking bad just replace it and your back to looking nice.
 
Anything you might remove for your annual condition inspection is good to paint off the airplane (fairings, wheel pants, inspection panels, etc) I like to use stainless screws for those parts. If a screw ever starts looking bad just replace it and your back to looking nice.
My question is really painting wings off plane AND painting before flying

Fairings ( except wheel pants and engine cowl) will be painted in place. I have no need to remove for Inspection or maintenance.

Wing tips - lights can be serviced from outside. Light removed I can look inside with bore scope at out board ribs.

Vertical Stab, Horz Stab, Rudder fairings never come off.

Fuel tank. Personally I'd be shocked if anyone removed that during Condition Inspection annually.

Of they need to be removed paint will be compromised.

The wing side of body strip yes I will paint off.
 
The fuselage makes a really excellent wing holder. The wing is at a good height and is held on only one end. Painting the bottom is very easy with the 3M PPS cups (or similar). Also, with the wing being held horizontally you can build up more paint on the surface before getting a run as opposed to hanging the wing vertically.

My personal opinion is to finish the airplane and then fly at least a few hours before painting. If you live within say 100 miles of the ocean, don’t delay, get that thing painted. Outside of that, paint whenever you feel up to it. I have a friend that likes to paint each part as he builds them. There is always hangar rash to fix when the plane finally goes together.
 
The fuselage makes a really excellent wing holder. SNIP

My personal opinion is to finish the airplane and then fly at least a few hours before painting. If you live within say 100 miles of the ocean, don’t delay, get that thing painted. Outside of that, paint whenever you feel up to it. SNIP
Right. Agree 👍. I suppose to paint wing bottom, to get more room under wing, tie tailwheel stinger up, and/or have mains on some ramp/riser. Only need 6-8 inch distance from gun to surface but need room. Might use a creeper. It would be nice to "walk" the length of wing soon in one shot and h
go back, like painting whole slide of car. Or do it in sections or front to back, chord wise will work.

Those paint cups are slick. Just bought some in different sizes. They didn't have this tech when I was painting. Clean up easier. I will practice painting up. Need hood PPG. . Fun 😁 new skill .
 
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For my DIY painting at home, any thing that could be removed were removed before painting . All the flaps, ailerons, elevator, vert stab, horz stab, wings, access hatches, cowls, fiberglass, forward compartment hatch, etc were removed and painted individually. The major part that wasn't removed was the fuel tanks, due more to the logistics since I no longer had the rigid wing support to safely remove the tanks. Thinking back, it was easy to paint smaller components instead of a larger pieces. Wet sanding smaller pieces was easier too.
 
For my DIY painting at home, any thing that could be removed were removed before painting . All the flaps, ailerons, elevator, vert stab, horz stab, wings, access hatches, cowls, fiberglass, forward compartment hatch, etc were removed and painted individually. The major part that wasn't removed was the fuel tanks, due more to the logistics since I no longer had the rigid wing support to safely remove the tanks. Thinking back, it was easy to paint smaller components instead of a larger pieces. Wet sanding smaller pieces was easier too.
Forgot to mention accss covers, thanks. Yes access covers..... I might add canopy as well.... but cross that bridge.... If I can work around it, I will. Installng canopy risks paint damage.
I am going for looks good, last long time and not going to worry about removing tip fairings.
 
Wings are not necessary to be removed but all the intersection fairings, cover plates, control surfaces and such need to come off. The wings are much easier to spray when you can rotate them- not crawl under them but still doable. Issues may come if you are spraying metallic- the flakes all need to align properly as the paint flows and if you paint a rudder in the horizontal and then the vertical stab in it’s upright position, then the sparkle will look funny in the sun. Striping can be difficult to align in pieces as well. In my case- I ran out of build to do while waiting for parts, so I painted wings and control surfaces while I was waiting on the finish kit for the fuse.
one last thing- never spray all the paint you buy. Always spray till you think you might need more then get more and mix in. You will never get 2 quarts of white paint that are the same white. This will show if you spray your flaps with 1 quart then buy another for the wings.
ive got a video if you want to see more.

 
Wings are not necessary to be removed but all the intersection fairings, cover plates, control surfaces and such need to come off. The wings are much easier to spray when you can rotate them- not crawl under them but still doable. Issues may come if you are spraying metallic- the flakes all need to align properly as the paint flows and if you paint a rudder in the horizontal and then the vertical stab in it’s upright position, then the sparkle will look funny in the sun. Striping can be difficult to align in pieces as well. In my case- I ran out of build to do while waiting for parts, so I painted wings and control surfaces while I was waiting on the finish kit for the fuse.
one last thing- never spray all the paint you buy. Always spray till you think you might need more then get more and mix in. You will never get 2 quarts of white paint that are the same white. This will show if you spray your flaps with 1 quart then buy another for the wings.
ive got a video if you want to see more.
Great video. Is that you Mike? What a beast painting in one go, with some fancy trim. The "Blue Beard" made me laugh... Good work. I am going MONO color.... all red. If I ever do trim it will be vinyl. It does show how to do it, simple, great planning and prep. I am likely to paint a little at a time, spread out over weeks. As far as color match I hope having paint in same batch and careful mixing I will be close. Since I am one color I will buy gallons of primer and top coat at one time. Of course when painting I will mix no more than a Quart at a time for big jobs and much less for small parts.
 
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