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Sep 26, 2022  Issue #5,657. (previous day's news)
  Contract pilot resume   
 

7 days of Aviation fun in the 12 ...Dvalcik

Three RV12s had been planning a x-country trip to the Petit Jean Fly-in. #1 Brent C, #2 David V and #3 Jeff V. (AKA "The Man"). We had planned on leaving on Wed morning the 14th and taking our time traveling to Arkansas. We planned a stop halfway to Memphis, but flying was good so we made it to Campbellsville, KY and spent the night. We met a fellow pilot that took us to lunch and dropped us off at the hotel. Then Thursday morning it was a short 2.2 hour flight to Memphis. We landed @ West Memphis Municipal Airport and got a hotel close for an early departure to Petit Jean AR. Thursday afternoon the 3 of us went to Beal Street for good food and visited the Music hall of Fame. Friday morning the flight of three headed to Petit Jean to see friends and meet new ones.

This event is one of the best RV Fly-ins in the country. They had roughly 120ish RVs. The EAA chapter has planned and thought out the event in detail. Great food and facilities on the top of Petit Jean. The food is top notch IE Grilled ham or turkey and cheese for lunch, then a fish fry for dinner. Fun times meeting with everyone at dinner. Sat began with breakfast , then lunch we had burgers, later in the afternoon we all were watching the balloon popping competition, then BBQ that night. The park is a great venue with plenty of hiking.

We had planned to then make a stop in New Orleans for the food and to visit the WWii museum on Monday. On Tue we started back to PA / NJ staying in Spartanburg SC for the night then headed home.

I have flown to Oshkosh and back and forth to Maine to PA many times, but this was the longest my bird has been from her hanger. The 12 is slower but still a great x-country bird. The three of us had very close to the same fuel burn at fill-ups. We unfortunately had some head winds most of the trip both ways - go figure, but still fun. We flew most of the time between 6500 and 7500 on the way back, but we did do one leg at 9500 nice cool air.

7 days of Aviation fun and now back home.
2237 nautical miles
Just under 25 flight hours
13 new airports
5 hotels
Lots of fun with my two buddies

 

Elevator trim tab question

Hi, I've purchased a flying RV-6 and noticed on a recent preflight that the brass-colored nut in this photos was loose. I'm not sure how tight it should be and what I should be checking for specifically with regard to this item on preflights. It doesn't look like there's any cotter pin or provision for safety wire, etc.

Also, if this nut comes loose in flight, what potential consequences would result?

I ask this because I've been fighting a weird problem with the autopilot (G3X Touch panel w/ Garmin servos) where it would fly perfectly for an hour and then suddenly just pitch up strongly for no apparent reason. It's definitely a pitch trim issue, as I can see the pitch trim moving nose-up during this event. I've been exchanging emails and G3X data files with the Garmin support folks for quite a while but haven't come to any satisfactory answer and I'm wondering if there might be a connection between the two.

 

N131RV Back in the air

After an 11 year wait, N131RV took to the air again today. Last flown on December 23, 2011. The flight was completely uneventful, except for the landings. Been a very long time since I landed a taildragger. I built this baby, with loads of help from my brother Sam, starting in 2001, first flight 2007. Just over 1020 hours on the hobbs meter now. What a ride!!!

 

RV-8 Status ...Mike W

Introducing "Excelsior". Finished installing the wings, tips, and fairings. Figured I'd better pull her out and get a photo in case Ian drops the hangar door on her. Need to reinstall the interior and then it's time for first engine run and weight and balance.
Soon, soon...

 

Air Filter and Box

I have a RV 7 with a O-320 (160 Hp) engine. I am in the middle of my first condition inspection (Supervised) and I really don't like what the previous owner has done. I have attached pictures, but simply, he cut out a small section of the K&N air filter to fit due to the bulge off the bottom of the carburetor. I feel it is a safety issue if that RTV comes loose it goes right into the carburetor. What options are there to fix this as a new filter will have the same issue?

 

Baffling Ramp Corner

I'm trying to close up the last egregious gaps in my baffling. This is an older RV-6 and I have not been able to find any good pictures of how others have handled the corners of the ramp on the lower cowling..
Mine looks like this:
If I try to extend the baffling on the curve of the lower cowl. it will not sit on the rather square aluminum corner. All suggestions and photos of how to handle this area welcome.

Thanks in advance!

 

 

Sep 23, 2022  Issue #5,656. (previous day's news)
  Wishing you and yours a happy, safe and RV-filled weekend.

  Contract pilot resume   
 

Flight training with my oldest Daughter ...crabandy

My oldest has quite a bit of time in the RV over the past 9 years, problem is it's mostly been point to point XC. She can push the buttons, talk on the radio and hold alt/heading pretty darn good.

High schoolers' and working dads are pretty busy but we finally settled on Wednesday evenings to prioritize a flight lesson, we're currently several lessons in. Working on getting access to a traditional trainer at some point but for now the RV can spoil her.

She is NOT a fan of stalls, the questions came up last lesson so I decided it was a good time to try and acclimate her a bit. I used about 20-25% power for a less aggressive power on stall scenario, I demonstrated a couple and gave her the controls. Really wish I woulda captured her first couple reactions but we were busy, learning is occurring...

 

Bike in an -8 ...Mhesser PIREP

(E-bike in an 8)  ...depending on the frame size you will most likely have to pull off the front fork and handlebars. I have transported my large frame gravel bike in the back the rear seat back would need to be removed and I would highly recommend removing the rear stick. I was constantly worried about something shifting into the stick at a bad time.

 

XC Numbers ...JHartline data

Additional data points. Mine is a tail dragger, T-bolt IO-390 with dual P-Mags timed at 5-deg PTDC (A-curve). About 30-50 LOP and WOT. Density altitudes 8,461, 10,581, and 11,508 density altitudes respectively.

Headwind was crushing me on the first two. Next day...mostly crosswind. Life's not fair!!

(Disregard my aileron trim - the gauge really exaggerates the trim amount. My plane is straight...I swear.)

Seems like I'm in the general ballpark with others.

 

4 Miles from Salt Water ...priming data point (Dozer)

I left several sheets outside my garage for 1 month. Terrible corrosion.  Alclad doesn't protect anything.  It works just to keep the metal shine on the way from manufacture to your garage. But you will get corrosion immediately after you put your plane outside your garage.

 

Play'n w/Sentry and ForeFlight

Getting to play with it for a bit.  AHRS, traffic and a ground track that was exported to Google Earth afterwards so easily I laughed out loud.  Inspected Denton creek - 12 vultures eating something.  Probably guessed I'm in the RV-15 wannabe (cub) during its once every coupla weeks flight to move the oil around.  48kts.  Pretty high tech for a plane with one knob and one switch.  The info we have available today is jaw dropping.  Gotta admit it was nice to see traffic around the cub.

Thoughts of an RV-15 with an Ipad, no doors and the bare legal mins for instruments sounds pretty appealing to me, to tell ya the truth.  Can't wait! ;^)

Two grabs (click for full size). 


Note the traffic to my left.

 

 

Sep 22, 2022  Issue #5,655. (previous day's news)
  Contract pilot resume   
 

1,950 NM West Bound One day ...TroyBranch Trip Writeup

In early September I made a Solo Trip to New Brunswick. I called it a Courier run as I filled the plane with birthday and Xmas gives from my parents on the return. The goal of the trip was to see if I could make it home (Across Canada) in one day. West to East. I saw that good tail winds on Windy were forecasted so I left home in the dark and watch the sun rise in Saskatchewan.  --->

 

When 'Rounding' gone wrong

So pretty sure I interpreted how to round the HS-905 nose ribs wrong. After rounding the entire front section held at 90 degrees to the wheel and cleaning up the resulting knife edge, I was left with this.

Given the location of these in the Horizontal stabilizer, should I order new and try again? Or would these be ok.

 

Favorite overnight stop KMEI

My all time favorite overnight stop. Newer crew car to use overnight; all the snacks you can eat for free plus a great hotel (Threefoot) nearby and reasonable fuel prices.

Couple of nights ago, Scott Stephens, while working the ramp, took the attached picture of my plane. He has been published in a few aviation magazines. Thank you Scott.

 

Milestone: Wing Off the Stand ...Jslow2

 

SteinAir Stuff FS:  Garmin GTN-750, GMA-340, SL-30, etc..

Hi All,

We have a few things for sale that we've accumulated during upgrades. As always, first come first serve. Call, email, or PM us for additional details or if you're interested. Here's what we have:

1) Garmin GTN-750. Sold by us new in 2018, never flown. Customer recently upgraded to an xi. Comes complete package in original box with 90 day warranty, current software loaded/updated. $12,750.

3) Garmin/Apollo SL-30 NAV/Comm radio. Removed working from a flying aircraft. In good condition, includes tray/backplate/connector kit. 30 day warranty. $2900

4) Garmin GMA-340 Audio panel. Removed working from a flying aircraft. In good condition, includes tray/backplate/connector kit. 30 day warranty $950

5) Garmin GTX-330 ES. Removed working from a flying aircraft. In good condition, includes tray/backplate/connector kit. 30 day warranty $1750

6) Garmin MX-20 MFD. Removed working from a flying aircraft. In good condition, includes tray/backplate/connector kit. $500

7) Aspen EFD1000 EFIS (pn: 910-00001-001). 14/28V Removed working from a flying aircraft. In good condition, includes RSM, misc cables, connector, etc.. $2150

All items sold guaranteed working and can be returned within 7 days if they aren't working for you when you receive them. If the units have a warranty associated with them, it'll be listed. If not, they are sold as-is.

 

 

Sep 21, 2022  Issue #5,654. (previous day's news)
  Please excuse the early Wed edition - working an extra paper route during normal push hours.  If you missed yesterday's news the link is a couple lines up.
  Contract pilot resume   
 

From the Weekend

(Chris French RV-10) Enjoyed talking planes and showing off N241VP at the Steamboat Fly-in. Great turnout this year including seven RVs. Four of which were from the Rocky Mountain Renegades formation flying team.

 

Performance benchmarking ...Bsquared -14A

I have about 140 hrs on my 14A with the 210 hp 390. I tried a number of power and mixture settings and have settled in with what is shown on this pic from a recent x-country flight. 2400 rpm, WOT and 60 LOP at 9800 ft density altitude results in 165 kts TAS and 8.8 GPH. I can get the FF down to 8.2 GPH by reducing the power down to the 52% range but the drop in TAS doesn't seem to make it worthwhile. For other operators of the 210 hp engine is this what you see from your airplane?

 

Vlad Flew His -9A to S&R Water Rescue Training

...this past weekend

 

Battery Capacity and Testing

I was reading a post in the RV-10 section and need to provide some correction to that post.

I've been dealing with large, grid-scale batteries for a very long time and have currently just installed a 200MWh Lithium chemistry based battery in the California grid; I assure you, that if that battery did not meet the discharge specs, I would not have signed off on the final test.

I'm not sure where the poster got the "PB equivalent" ratings from, but they are not in the National Electric Code, nor does it jive with either IEEE consensus on battery discharge rate nor the manufacturer specs for the batteries I've dealt with, which are many. There are suspect manufacturers that use a phony "pBeq rating", but it's just that, a made up rating to justify a poor quality battery performance.  --->

 

RV-8 cabin side plate dimensions ...-8

Anybody have the RV-8 lower cabin side plate dimensions or a solid works model? Looking to add a custom cover to this area.

 

Larry Larson's Paint Rig

...how mine has been set up since day one.

 

 

Sep 20, 2022  Issue #5,653. (previous day's news)
  Contract pilot resume   
 

The Weekend ...more entries.

 

Water inside propeller blade

Has anyone experienced water ingress into sensenich propellor blade. Parking outside on ramp for a few months, and went to check the oil, and heard sloshing sound. put the sloshing blade vertical, and about 5 ounces of water dripped out over a couple of hours from inside the hub. I don't remember what the hub end looks like but there must be a small hole somewhere into the void inside. I am guessing that this does not do anything good for the balance of the propeller until all the water is out. I think that I got the vast majority out but there must be some drops left inside. not sure how to dry it out.

 

New First Flights ...reported on Mothership









 

Difficult Nutplate Rivets

I don't know why I had such trouble with these rivets. They attach nut plates that sit right up against the inside of the side skins on the RV-8. I'm sure this isn't the only place or model that have nut plates in locations like this so I'm looking for any hints from the pros.

The problem is I can't get my squeezer on the rivets because they sit up against the side skin and I can't buck them for fear of denting the skin from the inside or deforming the thin angle they attached to. At least I don't think I can buck them - I haven't tried for the above reasons.

Any tips, tricks, something I'm missing? As you can see in the pics I resorted to blind rivets after trying to set them multiple times and mangling the shop headsv

 

Paying it forward

I've always taken the view that we're all only in aviation temporarily, so we have a bit of a responsibility to make sure we're replaced when we bow out.

If each one of us can find ONE person and inspire them into a life-long love of flying, our numbers will be maintained.

More powerfully, if we each find TWO people to become pilots, our numbers will double overnight.

Sounds easy, huh?

With that in mind, I've behaved as if it's some kind of regulatory breach to fly an RV with an empty passenger seat. It's usually pretty straightforward to find someone who's never been in a small plane and invite them for a fly-away day trip lunch, or a trip to a museum, or an airshow, or whatever.

By doing that, I've flown hundreds of passengers. When they've inevitably asked how much it costs, I've always told them I'm going anyway whether they come or not, so they're not costing anything. Keeping money out of it makes everything simple anyway.

But I also tell them that they're on the hook for giving me a free flight when they get their pilot license.

"Ha ha. As if I'd ever do that."

But some of them do, when I successfully infect them. So far I've "collected" seven Australian private pilot licenses, a handful of recreational pilot certificates (our rough analog to your Light Sport), and three airplane purchases that I know of.

I try to be more contagious than covid, and I tell them that these free flights can be very expensive. RV grins for everybody!

One of my first victims was Chris. I'd evangelized at him about how great airplanes were on twitter. His first general aviation experience was received when I moved from Adelaide to Sydney, and he accompanied me on the ferry flight when I went back to collect the RV a few weeks later.

We didn't quite make it all the way - a line of TSRA and TCU behind the Great Dividing Range necessitated a diversion and an overnight stop at Wagga Wagga, and I tied the RV down and we both airlined it home. I went back and finished the trip the following weekend.

Meanwhile Chris went out and booked flying lessons. Since then he's collected his private, then done more training for tail wheel, aerobatics and formation, before going on and getting his commercial.

And last year he bought a beautifully restored 1946 Cessna 140.

This weekend he was at AusFly at Narromine, and asked if we could do a photo mission so he could get the airplane he owns and the airplane that started it all in one shot.

So we did, and here's the shot.

I figure my free flight has cost him at least a couple of hundred thousand dollars, and he says it's the reason he doesn't own a house.

He seems happy.

 

Changing Out Screws On Switches/Breakers

On your switches/circuit breakers, if you are using ring type terminals instead of the blade variety, this might be a "tip" of interest to you. Many of you may already be using this "mod" - but if not, here goes:

If you have wired up switches/circuit breakers with screw type terminals, as opposed to the push on "blade" type; and, you are using ring terminals instead of blade, you know how difficult it can be (sometimes) to start the small 6-32 screws back into the terminal spade with the captured ring terminal attached. Especially problematic when doing it upside down & overhead under the instrument panel.

What I do instead is to change out all of these screws and replace them with SS socket head Allen screws. By using a "square" head Allen wrench, as opposed to the "rounded" Bondus type; and, a shortened, dedicated, square end 7/64" wrench, which effectively captures the socket screw, you can easily start it into the switch spade.

There's probably something wrong with this idea - but I haven't found it yet.

 

 

Sep 19, 2022  Issue #5,653.
  Spent the weekend in a box in the dark on poles being shaken (sim).  Petit Jean looks like it was awesome.  Pics below starting to trickle in.  Hope you had a nice weekend.

  Contract pilot resume   
 

The Weekend

 

David Paule RV-3B Status Update

It was time to ensure that the cowl cheek extensions were fair to the cowl cheeks. My shop is a small two-car garage and I needed to be able to step back to get a better perspective on this, so I pushed it out. It hadn't been outside since before the engine went on and I added some other things since, too. It was heavy enough and the driveway sloped enough that it was a handful keeping it under control. I should have asked for help from a neighbor, but I didn't. I got the tailwheel up against a handy stump and was glad that I hadn't had that stump removed - it's the only stump I let remain so there was an element of luck here.

 

Plumbing

It's like a 3D puzzle to work out the tubing runs and connections for the brake and fuel and vent lines. There's very little detail in the original plans for how to do this and the optional parking brake valve has added some complexity. I realised there is not going to be enough tubing in the kit and ordered extra 30' of 1/4" and 15' of 3/8" aluminum and also extra plastic brake line and fittings.

The knob for the parking brake will be mounted below the panel left corner and the Matco valve mounting bracket is up on the firewall and took a few iterations to work out. There is an extra support bracket for the bottom of the panel to make it more rigid.

I'm using house wiring cable to try and visualise how to route the aluminum tubing and still need to work out the Adel supports.

Brain is a bit fogged by all this!

 

Video: Cape Air Safari - Snowy Mountains & Misty Valleys ...Rudi G.

Why we FLY! Inspiration for builders and flyers

During our Cape Air Safari we woke up to a beautiful morning, blue skies, visibility to infinity, snow on the mountains, mist in the valleys, green fields and yellow rapeseed flowers...we just had to Go FLY!

This was one of my best flights in recent memory and I think I managed the capture the essence of it, the romance of why we FLY!

Watch in on a large screen TV, in 1080P HD quality.

There are 2 versions, a 4min in short version and an Epic 8 min version with long sweeping shots.

Enjoy and let me know what you think?

 

Dual GTR HX, Garmin 796, Stratus ESG, TruTrak, Icom 200 ...PittsCondor

Here is a picture of my panel. I did the upgrade a couple of years ago and love it. I left space for a Garmin 355 which I plan on installing soon. 2 axis autopilot connected to GRT. GRT Engine monitor now shows on EFIS. What an improvement that is. Traffic on EFIS also. I have the Sky Radar for traffic and weather on the EFIS. GDL 39 for traffic and weather on the 796. Dual Efis, dual AHRS, Dual GPS for the GRT HX EFIS. Loving it.

 

Intake Valve Boroscope IO-390

Ok all you gear heads, What is causing the "burnt edge' appearance on these Intake Valves. All four cylinders have the same unique appearance. I can only speculate that oil is running down the valve stem while sitting and then burns off?

130 hours TSN
Compression all above 76 and exhaust valves look great.

 

Old engine bearings

Here is some quick background; Purchased flying RV with documented engine rebuild with performance mods. After two intake valve failures (One with the previous owner and one with me) I decided to have an IRAN done by the local shop. I have posted before about some of the questionable stuff like the regrind of the factory camshaft etc.
Something that I found interesting is what appears to be the use of some old questionable parts during the overhaul process. I've attached some photos of the main and connecting rod bearings. These are on a 400HR 0-320. I am somewhat new to owning this model of aircraft engine and wondering if this shows excessive wear for a low time engine.

 

Paint Booth PIREP ...swift12

How I did it. Frame...paint booth filters. I blow air in through one filter and it blows up the booth with positive pressure. You can buy the zips online to stick to the heavy duty plastic. Wear safety gear in the booth. I use an iwata full fresh air mask but you could use a niosh approved mask. Depends on how poisonous the stuff you are spraying. I don't go near hexavalent chromium stuff but happy to spray two pack epoxy in there. Works well but wish I made it a bit larger.

 

Aircraft Extras News ...Rich Meske (owner)

We just received more stock of our E-Z out Center Console for the RV-6, 7, 9, and 14. The center console not only adds more storage space, it also aids the pilot and passenger to enter and exit the cockpit easier. It is solidly constructed so that you can put your full weight on it, if solidly secured in the cockpit area. You can have us paint it or have us cover it with leather and/or material. Don't forget to purchase our "Must have's", . . No Weld Handles, Relay Boards, and Tire Valve Extensions for any aircraft project! For more details on these two items and more GREAT PRODUCTS, please visit www.aircraftextras.com.


 

Sep 16, 2022  Issue #5,652.
  The 17th is the 20th anniversary of Jay Pratt doing the first flight on our family's RV-6 'Flash'.  Sure went fast!  Many thanks to my friends Jay for the help and to Alex D for the tailwheel endorsement shortly thereafter.  Time sure flies.
  Petit Jean is this weekend! Wishing you and yours a happy, safe and RV-filled weekend.

  Contract pilot resume   
 

Video: Air Safari Cape Town South Africa ...RudiGreyling

We just got back from a wonderful Air Safari exploring the Cape Town South Africa region. This is one of the first videos I got ready for release and shows the beautiful Stellenbosch airfield and flying along the eastern coastline.

Watch it in highest quality 1080p HD and the flying starts around the 60second mark.

 

Would you rebuild this horizontal?

This aircraft has been flown since 1990 and currently has 853 hours on the tach time. I have the airplane apart for its first conditional inspection under my ownership. My very thorough IA noticed that there are shims and rivets missing under this horizontal stabilizer spar, and it doesn't bolt to the longeron as shown in the attached photos and plans. There are no cracks and he says it's "not working" which is good, but it's not to plans. I'm not sure what plans were used to build this aircraft or if there have been changes to the plans. The earliest copy I have is 1988, and I don't know if there were plans from an earlier time that might have been used. Vans says the older plans should be the same.

This airplane has been through numerous conditionals and inspectors and this has never been written up in the logbook. My IA suggests that I build a RV7 horizontal. I guess technically it won't be "to plans" either.

 

7 to 7A ...keitht PIREP

Some years ago I bought a project that was at close to quickbuild stage with a slider canopy and 7A gear and did all the research to convert from slider to tip up and 7A to 7 (going the other way to what you plan). The differences are managable.
Engine mount frame - replace with 7A engine mount and sell the 7 engine mount.
Purchase 7A engine mount, nose gear leg, wheel,wheel pant and fairings.
The cockpit forward spar and gear covers are also different.
Gear leg fittings - purchase.
Gear legs check for toe in toe out - the 7A has toe in - I seem to remember the 7 has toe out. Depending on the configuration of the gear legs in your kit it may be possible to reconfigure them to work for the 7A - important to confirm.
Add the rear tiedown plate if not installed.
I chose to leave the gear as a 7A but did make the change to a tip up. There were all kinds of subtle differences that required new parts and modifications in addition to the obviously different parts - in some cases off by less than 1/4 inch where rivet holes just wouldn't line up and parts had to be remade or modified so be prepared for that. Needless to say I thought I had done a pretty good planning job but there was a number of things I didn't see coming. I think in the end the changes cost about $1500 even though the canopy lexan was not cut and fully repurposed for the tip up canopy.
I am sure others will tell you also that going off from (Vans) plan gets into uncharted waters pretty quickly.

 

F-711A/B holes do not align on the F-773 side skin

I am fitting the F-711 bulkhead to the skin, and two parallel vertical lines of holes on the bulkhead (one line coming from the F-711A, the front part, the other from the F-711B, the aft part) do not align. Pretty much all the vertical holes on the F-711 bulkhead, not just few of them.

My guesstimation is that the worst hole is ~0.030" off, if I align one side "perfectly". Meaning, that an ideal hole covering both will be around, say, ~0.120", an -4 sized rivet (and the side that is aligned "perfectly" will be normal -3 sized rivets).

The holes on the skin are closer to each other compared to the holes on the flanges of the bulkhead. I cannot think of a way to make the holes on the bulkhead closer to each other. The flanges are bent the way the are bent, and I don't think I have any significant gaps between the bulkhead sides either.

There might be some vertical offset happening, too, but I think it is mostly the horizontal.  --->

 

Houston area monthly lunch (September 2022)

Looks like we've made it through yet another month, so it's time to grab some lunch again. We'll keep it simple this time around and do Hooks again.

When: Saturday, 9-17, 11:30 AM
Where: Aviator's Grill at Hooks (KDWH)

 

RV-15 Dreamin'

.5 Thursday looking at the creeks and lake, dreaming of the day I can do this in a -15 with the doors off <g>.

 

 

Sep 15, 2022  Issue #5,651.
  Petit Jean is this weekend!

  Contract pilot resume   
 


Greg, Sid and Ross pre-formation
practice at 52F Wednesday morning.


Low rez iPhone pic of their return.  dr

 

Advice on repairing a side skin puncture

Hey guys,

When I bought my RV8, I noticed a "pimple" on the front baggage compartment right side skin. The total width was about 5/16". Upon inspection with a magnifying glass, I realized it was actually a smile shaped puncture. Looks like at some point, something sharp in the baggage compartment went into the side.

I tapped it back flat with a dolly and hammer like a dope, and this caused the skin in the area to oil can.

So my plan to repair is to drill out the spot to about 5/8" to remove the crack and the area I stretched by tapping it flat.

I do not want to dimple and buck new rivets on the paint to install the traditional "static port" type patch. I spoke with a Boing Aeronautical Engineer who is a friend of mine, and he advised me to bond the patch using 3M Scotch Weld 08966. The final bonding strength will exceed that of rivets.

So the plan is to water jet 2 discs out of .032 2024, one 3" in diameter, and one 5/8". Glue the small disc to the center of the 3" disc, then glue that on the inside of the area, with the 5/8" disc filling in the hole and the 3" disc backing it up. I would clamp the arrangement in place while drying and throw a bullet hole sticker over the whole arrangement once done.

Thoughts or suggestions?

 

Shake it, baby! ...-12

I have an interesting experience, but let me share some figures first:
TT70 hours
new aluminium Cummins Spinner since 6 hrs. Beautifully made, nearly-perfect mounted per manual: even less movement of the pitot than with the original spinner.
New spinner is not balanced, yet.

The spinner-info is added because I never had this issue before I mounted that beauty..
Engine runs fine, temps where they should be. Taxiing for some minutes, run-up flawless. Takeoff nice as ever. Then the prop begins 'shaking' as if it isn't centered. changing RPM always solves it, and the flight is effortless.
Changing RPM's afterwards never ever got me shaking again...

This happens at some 100ft height, and no (read my lips: NO) shaking whatsoever at run-up.
Checked of course:
No loose motor mounts, engine rubbers - nothing.
No wear or tear on the engine-axle (as far as I can feel/see without deep examination).

Today I noticed a little gas stain in the drip pan of one of the carbs.
I thought it was my turn for sunk floats, but one Rotax guru (Roger Lee) said to be careful with quick actions, for sometimes '..it makes the carbs shake so bad the floats and needle valve can't control the fuel level and it vents out the tube'.

That shake is definitely what I got - but how?
Might the (slightly heavier) spinner be the culprit?
And how do I check that?

Any ideas highly appreciated!

 

Balsa Wood swelling up in HS tip

Q: I had to leave the plane outside a little while back when visiting my parents in Rochester. The local FBO wanted $175/night for hanger space, so I went for the $15 tie down. It rained a lot that night. The when I departed a couple of days later, I noticed the elevator counterweight was slightly contacting the tip of the HS. It wasn't much, just a little kiss as it moved through neutral. After a few days without moisture, it went back to normal. I do see some slight cracking in the paint around there, and there is ever so slight movement to the tip of the HS if I tug on it. I did not build this plane. I have heard that the tip is Balsa wood, but I don't know that for sure. I suppose putting a coat of sealer over the cracks would help keep it dry in there, in case I need to tie down in the rain again.
Has anyone else had this issue? And, do any builders have any advice for me?
Thanks,
Tom
__________________
RV7A

A:  (DanH) Tom, the shells of all the empennage tips are fiberglass, but the ends of the shells are typically filled by the builder. The usual method is to tack in some kind of bulkhead, then glass over it. Here it sounds like your builder used a bulkhead material which swells with moisture, quite possibly balsa.

Given control jam is serious issue, I'd recommend a rework of those bulkheads.

 

Sep 14, 2022  Issue #5,650.
  Petit Jean is this weekend

  Contract pilot resume   
 

Can You Say Borescope? ...HFS

I've posted this before - didn't get much "traction" then, but maybe some of the posters on this thread didn't read it. It's certainly not the end all, be all of tire inflation options - but it is one, IF you are using the hole in the WP with a snap plug cover.

It helps in locating the stem in the center of the hole to make the inflation easier. And yes, I know you can mark your tire for the same purpose, but, if you are pushing/pulling your airplane to rotate the tire, you are (I think) having to alternate back and forth between the pushing/pulling aspect to looking for the tire mark.

With this system, use a simple (read cheap) borescope you may already have for valve inspection, to indicate stem position on your Android or iPhone while pushing/pulling it. I am an old man, and any more movement on my part than is absolutely necessary is a negative.

YMMV - But this is one (easy) way of locating the stem.

 

New builder in Asheville NC

My friend in Asheville is starting a RV7. We are both retired Navy Captains who first met in the Philippines many years ago. He is totally new to aviation and I am working to get him started on the right track with his project. I just made him aware of this site and he probably will be joining soon. In the meantime are there any builders In Asheville area who could show him their projects and advise. Maybe even a flight in a RV7? Also where is the closest flyin breakfast that gets a lot of RV's in attendance? I will direct him to this thread.

Thanks
JM (RV3)

 

Experimenters experimenting

Galaxy Chute Aft of Firewall?
I know this question will probably just end up generating negative responses to the idea of putting a chute in a plane, but I'll risk it... (I've got my reasons for considering a chute. No need to "open my eyes" to how unnecessary it is. )

I've looked at the BRS solution, and I really don't love their decision to put it so far aft. That got me looking at other options, specifically Galaxy. I know I've heard of someone installing a Galaxy chute aft of the firewall before, where it sits on the passenger side and exits vertically. If this is doable, it sure seems like it would solve most of the CG concerns that come with the BRS setup (I'd give up the heavy constant speed setup).

I'm just getting ready to start my fuselage kit, so haven't wrapped my head around the build yet. Does the space just aft of the firewall typically get filled up with equipment for the panel, or what is the likelihood of being able to carve out enough room for a chute pack? Are the ribs in that area set in stone, or can they be moved around a bit? This will be a tip-up. I'm not sure of specific dimensions of the chute yet - still waiting to hear back from Galaxy on the proper size chute (looks like either 140 or 175 sqm).

Just pondering options at the moment. I may end up just writing it off, but if it's doable, I know I'd have a happy passenger.

 

Draker's Mounting the GTX and GPS Units Aft of the Baggage Bulkhead

I did something similar, mounting the GTX and GPS units aft of the baggage bulkhead. Built a mount out of Van's ELT mount.

Both transponder and GPS antennas are back there and the units wire to each other so I thought it made sense.

 

Carb. Bowl massive leak experience ...-12

The other day I went up flying and immediately noticed a strong gasoline odor, I've experienced this before when my floats needed replacing so I didn't get too excited, however I glanced at my fuel pressure which is usually just in the yellow band was now mid to upper green band. I decided to come back and land. When I shut down I found fuel running out of the lower cowl, I opened the oil door and saw the drain pan wet with fuel. I pulled the top cowl off and put the boost pump back on and saw fuel coming out of the bottom of the bowl under pressure. I took the carb bowl off and found the brass guide rod for the float laying in the bottom which exposed a hole completely through the bowl, this is not from wear it is made like this. The brass rods are slightly tapered and are pressed into the hole, however if the rod comes loose you have about a 3/32" open hole for the fuel to come out under pressure. Not a good design especially right over the exhaust pipe. The leak was large enough to drop my fuel pressure. BTW, I just had the carbs done at Lockwood about 90 hours ago...my carbs are perfectly synced and prop balanced to .04 IPS, she runs extremely smooth. I'm most likely going to buy two new bowls, at the very least those holes need to be sealed at the underside. I'm leary of pressing the guide back in and sealing the bottom holes...going to let Lockwood and Vans know about this.

 

Fabricating F-01236A and F-01236B ...-12

Page 21iS/U-17, Figures 2 and 3.

What's the preferred method for fabricating these parts? Both my benchtop bandsaw and grinder struggle with stock this thick. And the aluminum heats up really quickly. I haven't actually tried to do the long cuts yet, just separating the four pieces and cleaning up the ends to the right length has been a problem.

Maybe I need a finer tooth blade for the bandsaw? Recommended blades?

 

FAA Safety Briefing: September/October 2022

The September/October 2022 issue of FAA Safety Briefing focuses on the FAA's Flight Program Operations team and the critical role they play in assuring safety in the National Airspace System. Feature articles cover the team's various missions and how to operate safely when you hear the 'Flight Check' call sign on the radio. We also look at the various partnerships Flight Program Operations has with other agencies, provide a behind-the-scenes peek at the fleet, and make a pitch for potential career opportunities with this dynamic group of aviation professionals.

 

 

Sep 13, 2022  Issue #5,649.
  Contract pilot resume   
 

Went to Canada Instead

After deciding from the research that Alaska was a bit late in the season this year decided to head to eastern Canada instead.

5 days, 42.0 hours logged, 442.88 gallons burned, 1 night in a hotel.

 

RV-10 Horizontal Stabilizer to Elevator Rigging Question

I'm attaching the elevators to the horizontal stabilizer and am at the point where I need to drill the elevator horn at the hinge line with the supplied drill bushing.

I started with Vans instruction to screw the bearing rod ends in so the center of the bolt inserted in the rod end bearing is 7/8" to the center from the rear spar web. I then needed to tighten the outboard rod end bearing one more full turn to square up the elevator counterbalance rib with the outboard HS edge.

It all looks good. I get 43 degrees of up elevator and over 27 degrees of down elevator before the elevator touches the trailing edges of the HS. The horn is hitting my workbench so I'm not totally sure my max down travel.

My question for the rigging / speed nuts is, should I screw those rod end bearings in to decrease the gap as much as possible and still allow for the recommended range of deflection without rubbing? Max listed is 30 degrees up and 25 down, and the minimum is listed as 25 up and 20 down.

Wasn't sure if a tighter gap is better here as long as I have room for paint with no rubbing and I meet the min 25 up and 20 down requirement?

Don't want to drill the horn to the bearing until I've got this figured out.

Does this gap make any difference as far as drag or should I just give myself more margin?

 

Crazy full-up elevator issue

The day I bought my RV-8A and flew it home (March, 2021) I first encountered this problem. I was heading home to KVDF from visiting a buddy at KMLB, on autopilot, and somewhere just East of KORL's Bravo airspace the plane started heading for the sky! I pushed the stick forward...back to neutral, but it was like fighting a demon. Fairly strong; it felt like I was pushing against a 15+ pound spring. Maybe more. I was a bit freaked out the first time and I don't know how the problem was solved, but it was. I visit my buddy at least several times a year and without fail the plane does the same thing around that same area as I head home!! I figure it's some sort of electric gremlin but what on earth could trigger it in a fairly specific location? I finally got smart and was ready to pull the elevator trim circuit breaker when it happened, and I did. Didn't do anything. And of course turning off the autopilot was always the first thing I did, with no result. I finally know exactly what it's doing...electronic waves, Satan, random chance, or whatever...is setting full-up elevator trim. The indicator shows it. Solving it just takes pushing the trim down button and setting it back to neutral. No idea why it happens at that location (somewhere near DEARY), unless the intersection of two victor airways somehow creates enough electrical interference to cause it. Doesn't seem likely. But the other day I noticed that it "did it" after an aileron roll, and nowhere near the "usual spot". This would possibly point to a loose connection, I'd think. I have yet to dig through all the paperwork and see how the trim motor is connected to the control...I assume it's through a fairly powerful spring? Any thoughts on this crazy topic are appreciated!

 

Exhaust tubes out of muffler

Yesterday I had the cowl off of my RV-12 to install new exhaust pipes as per Service Bulletin 00005. I found both exhaust pipes on the left side had worked their way out and were sitting up on the muffler socket. I have attached a picture.

This RV-12 is new to me. I had some work done on it before I picked it up including new stainless steel exhaust springs installed when replacing a broken exhaust spring. That was only about 5 hours ago. Now one of the new springs has also broken and both tubes are out.

So what gives? I am wondering if this means I have excessive vibration or some other problem. Vibration doesn't seem excessive but like I said, this -12 is new to me so I don't have a lot of experience to judge by.

 

Rough Running Rotax Finally Solved

This ongoing problem has plagued me for over 2 years, and 200 hrs of flight time. Near the end, the spark plugs were lasting less then 10 hrs and oil changes were done at 20 hrs, which was as black as coal by then. I rebuilt the carbs twice myself and had Lockwood do them 3 times. I drained and flushed the fuel system twice, and Lockwood did it twice.
Each time the carbs were done, and the plugs were changed, I would have a few hours of a perfectly running engine. We knew that it was fuel, but could not end the nightmare. I came close to replacing both carbs, but in retrospect, that would only have resulted in a smooth running engine "for a little while".
This Spring I flew the airplane down to Lockwood Aviation in hopes of a fresh eyes solution. The first thing Joe, the shop manager did was to ask Phil Lockwood to test fly my airplane. After a thorough preflight, which included a fuel sumping that entailed taking several samples, and pouring them into a clear, funnel shaped collector for a detailed look for debris, Phil would not fly the airplane. Following that, Joe had his staff clean the fuel system. Again Phil did his preflight and flew my RV-12. He was quite complimentary about the airplane.
Before flying back home, I decided to have Lockwood comply with the 5 year Rotax rubber change, after which Joe asked Phil to fly my airplane. Again, Phil did a thorough preflight, and again he rejected the fuel samples. He walked back into the shop and told Joe to pull the fuel tank. Admittedly, no one was excited about it but, Phil is the boss, so they complied. Upon draining and flushing the tank, very tiny particles continued to be flushed from the tank, which were being collected into a white 5 gallon bucket. It was determined that is must be Proseal deteriorating, which was finer than confection sugar and had a light sand color. Being 1,000 miles from my home shop, a new tank was ordered from Vans and installed. Problem solved.
In summary:
Only fresh 93 octane ethanol free auto fuel has been used in the airplane, which now has 550 hrs on it.
Each time service was done such as carb clean and/or spark plugs changed it would run great, "for a little while"
Sumping using the normal sump tool revealed no debris.
During one of the carb rebuilds at Lockwood, Joe had his staff run my carbs on his test engine which caused them to rebuild them twice before he was satisfied with the test run. The only problem was that after I installed them, it only ran great "for a little while".
This was an expensive and frustrating problem and I now have about 100hrs on it since the fix that Phil Lockwood identified. To this day I have no idea why my Proseal continued to deteriorate, but I am done with that tank.
There is much more to the story, such as, I have posted many many times on this site and the Rotax site, looking for a solution, but this is the short version. Also, I greatly appreciate everyone's help in trying to solve this problem This forum is fantastic!!
All in all, I love my RV-12..............Tom

 

 

Sep 12, 2022  Issue #5,648.
  Contract pilot resume   
 

The Weekend 'What I Did' Thread

 

09-07 match drilling hinge

I didn't like the starter holes locations (fore to aft) I drilled in my hinges for the elevator trim tab, so I realigned with the edges of the spars (aft edges flush with each other). I've asked mothership, but I'll ask here, anyone set up like this before, any issues? I can't think of any, and the 'kind of' test fit looks good (only the pieces on 09-07, with clecos in the way), but it's not a full test fit, hence the question.

 

D1000 in RV12 behaving strange - freezing

I am not close to the aircraft so it is quite difficult to help. Yesterday the owner phoned me and told me that the screen got stuck in the boot up. See picture. After trying everything I have told him to do a 1+3+5 button reset. that seemed to work as it did start up. he then tried to go to the Flight Plan menu, but could not do so.

This morning he added fuel and then at switch on it boots up and goes directly to the FUEL page. No matter what you do, it does not come out of this screen. A 1+3+5 reset brings you back to the same page. I have also asked him to try it with the Backup Battery disconnected without any difference.

Lastly a 7+8 button press to get to the Setup Menu also does not work.

Any ideas on what is causing thi will be really welcomed. Thank you.

 

Wheel alignment really matters!

When I built the RV8, I used the wheel alignment shims that Vans sells to get my wheels as closely aligned as I could. They only go down to 1/2 degree, so you can only get within a 1/4 degree of perfect. I ended up with just a very slight amount of toe-out on one wheel (something like 0.1 degrees), and the other one essentially perfect.

Fast-forward 13 years, and a silly mishap this winter when I got stuck in very soft mud while taxiing across a dirt field. The airplane didn't go all the way onto its nose, but the prop did slice into the soft mud, so -- new prop blades and an engine inspection (dial indicated crank flange, magnetic-particle inspection of crank accessory drive gear, new bolt and pin, even used "food-grade anti-seize" as specified in the AD--we are still laughing about that).

After that misadventure, I noticed right away that the airplane was a lot more skittish directionally. I just told myself I was just rusty. But I even noticed that it was harder to make it go straight on take-off, and landings were more of an adventure than they used to be, for sure. I also noticed that I was starting to see tire wear on the inside edges, whereas my tires have always worn pretty even before.

So, I checked my wheel alignment again and, AH HAH, I had a 1/2 degree of toe-out. Seems hard to believe that a gear strut would have twisted, and all the sheet metal looks normal, so my hunch is that the gear struts just got nudged aft within the bolt clearances. Measuring to the aircraft centerline, almost all of the toe-out was on one side (the side that used to be about 0.1 degree toe-out was now 0.4 degrees)
Anyway, I switched out a 1-degree shim for a 1/2-degree shim, so now I have just a very slight amount of toe-in, about 0.1 degrees.

Now, my RV8 is a pussycat! What a difference!

This isn't to re-hash the debate of toe-in vs toe-out (I believe a slight amount of toe-in is better than a slight amount of toe-out) but rather to say that you should try to get the wheels as close to straight as you can.

 

Getting Organized

Waiting on my empennage kit to ship and looking at the mess of tools that have arrived, I decided to start organizing things a little bit.

I came up with this for my dimple dies and counter sinks, but how does everyone keep drill bits sorted? Some of these sizes are nearly impossible to separate.

 

"Out of the Box" idea for the Cabin Floor ...Hartstoc

I've always felt that theRV cabin floor was the source of considerable noise and also a potential burn-through fire threat during an engine fire. The usual solution of thick, heavy spacing material under a carpet has never struck me as satisfactory. I now have 150 trouble-free hours on a light-weight, very successful solution I came up with. Just to get your attention I'll start with a photo of the nearly complete installation, shown just prior to installation of my new panel and center console:  --->

 

ISO scat duct adapter

Looking for a 45* scat tube adapter for my heat muff. Anyone know a source?
Or I could have the flange removed and a new flange rewelded at an angle. Any aluminum Tig welders in the Phoenix, AZ area that could help out?

Scat / mount interference.

 

Any reason not to just replace this old MA-3A carb?

The engine is an o-235-C1, the carb is the MA-3A without the accelerator pump. I have been flying this for 6 years.

Four months ago the engine developed idle problems. Rough running, engine dying. I spent a bunch of time going through the entire fuel system. Put new filters in, checked all the screens and lines, checked for intake leaks, etc. I spent a quite a bit of time adjusting the mixture/idle setting on the carb and it seemed to solve the problem.

Today, on take-off with my hand holding the throttle in, the rpm did not reach normal takeoff rpm, and then the rpm started dropping even though I was still holding the throttle in.

I pulled into the runup area, leaned it out and did a high rpm run for 30 seconds or a little longer. The mag drop was in specs. Also, these Bendix mags were bought brand new and installed a year ago.

Did 4 more high speed taxi tests and could not achieve take-off power. I came away feeling this plane is trying to tell me something, maybe for some time. I also decided I was not flying it again until I have the carb inspected or replaced.

I have no history at all on this carburetor. No idea the number of hours or if/when it was last over-hauled. It came with the used engine.

At this point I am pulling it. My only question is to try an IRAN - or just buy a new/overhauled carb?

I am clearly leaning towards a overhauled/rebuilt one from AS.

This carb is clearly an older one but I'm just wondering if there is any reason to IRAN this one rather than buy a newer rebuilt/overhauled one?

To be clear I am not trying to save $500 or whatever between a possible IRAN and a rebuilt/overhauled unit. Plus the inherent delays in an IRAN process, when I can just order a rebuilt/oh'd unit today.

I vaguely recall in some cases "the old ones were better than the new ones" but have no idea of this relates to my carb at all. This is the crux of why I am asking the question.

Any valid reason to have this old one rebuilt rather than buy a newer overhauled/rebuilt unit, if money is not a consideration?

 

Flap TE overhang

Check this out. This is the left flap. Notice the amount of material from the TE wedge that extends past the aft edge of the flap skins. I didn't see this on other TE's thus far.

Thoughts?

 

 

 

 

Sep 9, 2022  Issue #5,647.
  Wishing you and yours a happy, safe and RV-filled weekend.

  Contract pilot resume   
 


 

Restoring a '84 RV-3 ...Jerry Bland post

Local chapter following our builders. RV-3 restore project.

 

A tool junkie's thoughts on sockets ...mburch

If you just want to turn a fastener with the least possible expense, almost anything will do. Sometimes you need a "disposable" socket that you can grind or weld to fit a particular application, in which case - well, you probably have a Harbor Freight store nearby.  --->


 

Baggage compartment light

With the G3x and optional rotary potentiometers from Stein, I've got the built in capability to control 3 different cabin light circuits.

I debated how and where to install lights and elected to go with a white LED strip for the baggage compartment and both a blue strip and a white strip under the glare shield.

Wont have the glare shield done for some time, but today I finished up the one for the baggage compartment. The light strip is in the seat back cross bar, which is bare aluminum on the inside, so it acts as a reflector.

I'm sure that there are fancier installations out there, but this was super easy to install. Just ran two wires with the wire bundle going to the flaps, and stuck the LED strip up with it's own peel and stick tape (which I don't have much confidence in) followed by a couple of strips of duct tape to keep the ends from peeling up right away, then a few dollops of E6000 to encourage it to stay in place.

I elected not to go with the almost a 14 mod. This is just the factory crossbar.

The white LED is shining on gray primer, which is the reason it has a blue hue to it.

 

Tailbeaconx EXP wiring - white wire?

Those of you with an EXP Tailbeaconx, did it come with the white wire?

I picked up a tailbeaconx EXP from spruce. It has 5 wires including the white "suppression" wire that the TSO version has.

The EXP manual does not mention the white wire, so I assume it is not supposed to be there on my EXP version.

I messaged uavionix about it and they responded to simply follow the TSO manual. This is fine, no problem, I will ground the white wire.

I wonder if they ran out of exp versions and started slapping the exp label on their tso versions? They did not offer any explanation, but maybe they will get around to it.

 

Mike's Looking for a Sell Ballpark

Considering selling my 1997 6A. 750tt since new ,prop 30 since iran. A little hanger rash but have to look fir it. Was thinking 70-75k. Am i in the ball park? I see 6a's on other sites for over 100k. I am the original builder. O/360 hartzell cs always hangered


 

Help for Boulder CO High School Build needed

I received an email from a friend whose daughter attends Boulder High School in Colorado asking for help.

Sadly her technology teacher was killed in a plane crash this summer. He had planned a student build of an RV-12. I understand the new teacher is keen to move forward with the build and but doesn't quite know where to start.

I have just completed an RV-12iS so I can offer some advice but living down in Colorado Springs it is going to be difficult for me to be of much practical assistance. I understand they have started the inventory of the kit.

I have pointed them towards local EAA chapters. As I get more details I wondered if anyone local to Boulder could offer some help ? I was a member the Colorado RV group but can't seem to find the login details to their forum - Larry can you help me get back in.

PM if you can offer help. I am talking to the new teacher later this week.

 

Eyeball vent issue

I'll be looking at the latest squawk this weekend - my pax reported their eyeball panel vent wouldn't work. They tried Turing the collar and no joy. Tried poking the shutter vanes open with a pinkie without success - would open then close again under air flow pressure. Appears to be disconnected internally. This is one of the high quality $$$$$ black anodized vents from an outside vendor I've since forgotten. Either Stein or Advanced Flight, I'm guessing.

I forgot about the issue until now (it's not on my side of the cockpit so not my problem LOL). Anything I should be aware of as to failure modes on these things?

Best pic I have of the buggers is attached.

 

 

Sep 8, 2022  Issue #5,646.
  Contract pilot resume   
 

Weird Milestone

Back in 1988 I had a '78 Audi with three of the power windows broken.  The only one that worked was the right side back seat.  Air conditioner broken, only hot air.  My first job out of college was as assistant manager at a computer store called 'Micro City' at the NW corner of Story Rd and 183 in Irving, TX.  It's an AVIS now.  Next to the old Service Merchandise - still use the calculator I bought there.  I had to drive to work in shorts, change at the store into work clothes, then drive home again in shorts so I didn't pass out.  I made $19K a year with no benefits ;^). 

Fast forward 34 years to today in 2022.   Met my son near SMU to switch out cars with him (his air conditioning went out so he's driving my truck until I can get it fixed - compressor engages, it has freon, fan is working, developing...). 

Had to work a side job sim, and the path from SMU to the sim took me by the old Micro City location.  Got a pic as I drove by, with the windows down, wearing shorts and planning on changing into khakis and a golf shirt once I got to the sim. 

Driving home after the sim was hotter than a mutha scratcher.  Circle of life and all that... 

 

Parked in a Bad Neighborhood ...Brian Decker joke

LOL.  Actually....the condition inspection continues.

 

First flight for my big sister in my RV6

(conadianf1pilot) I think she had fun....WOW...LOL

 

Mounting the bottom cowl with hinges

Getting the lower cowl attached to the fuse before the piano hinges are attached is not a problem when the top cowl is in position if some sort of support is placed under the cowl at the rear. Then, by lifting the front of the bottom up to meet the top and connecting them together with a cleko or screw at the spinner the rear can be lifted up to meet the fuse and connected.

This will not be possible once all the hinges are riveted in place. The bottom has to be mounted first (unless I am missing something....always a possibility, if not probability). If the bottom goes on first, does this become a two, or three person activity? Someone holding the front up in it's final position while someone on the port and someone else on starboard lines up the hinges at the rear? Or, is there a trick apparatus for holding the front up or the entire lower cowl up while the rear hinges are mated? Levitation? Fork lift?

 

4 year old front tire with cracks?

Please take a look at the attached two photos of my RV10 front tire. Last week I took the front wheel faring off to grease the caster wheel gear and noticed the cracks in the tire that is indicated in the attached photos (located in both of the tire grooves).

To me this doesn't look good but perhaps this is common and normal.
I'm looking for others input as to if this is normal and still airworthy?

Thanks in advance for your help.

 

North Atlanta RV Builders group meetup

This Saturday we are meeting at RYY (McCollum) restaurant.  Any builders or prospective builders in the Atlanta area are invited.  Will be several RV's flying in, and probably a few rides given.

 

Rate my crimps

I'm getting ready to crimp some d-sub pins and have two crimpers to choose from. I'm not sure which crimper is the better option. So I crimped two test pins and examined them under the microscope. Despite the two crimpers looking very similar, the resulting crimps are definitely different.

 

 

Sep 7, 2022  Issue #5,645.
  Contract pilot resume   
 

Father's 1st RV Flight!

I took my father for his 1st flight in my RV. He had great time. It was a little challenge getting him in and out, but it was uneventful. He is 84 and was a NASA engineer during the Apollo program. He spent a lot of time working on the Saturn V, the LEM and the LRV.

 

Show us your curves

A .3 Tue morning at my home field before it got hot.  Over the top and a circular-as-I-can-make-it continuous turn to final (empty pattern).  Bubbled out there a little when I pulled full flaps (manual).

Top mine.  Let's see what you got. 

 

Years of RV Enjoyment

Another data point.

 

How the heck do you pull this rivet?

Page 21iSU/-03. The CS4-4 in Figure 2, see attached. I have an electric puller, a pneumatic puller, and a hand puller. Only the hand puller has a chance, and once I get the nose over the rivet, I can't open the tool enough to get it to grab.

 

Air Filter

Group,
I am awaiting the return of my engine from the local shop. In the meantime I'm cleaning up a few things forward of the firewall. Quick question about the K&N filters. I understand these to be lifetime for automotive use and mine looks good and is serviced regularly but it is original to the plane (2006).
Is there a recommended replacement interval for aviation use?
Thanks,
Kirk

 

Fiberglass Tool Trifecta

I must say, I have gone through a lot of sandpaper while working on fiberglass, but no more. Decided to try a couple new tools and must admit that these 3 tools in combination with each other are absolutely spectacular.

Dremel Saw-Max: Cuts through fiberglass like butter. has so much torque it twists in your hand when it starts (start it off the workpiece) and never gets bogged down in the cut.

Oscillating tool (Dewalt): with 60 grit sandpaper this thing shaves down edges like a champ.

Permagrit Wedge Block: Just like sandpaper wrapped around a 2x4 but doesn't wear out (hasn't yet at least) and doesn't scrape up your hand over time like the stuff wrapped around a 2x4.

Highly recommend these 3 tools for fiberglass work.

 

 

Sep 6, 2022  Issue #5,644.
  I pushed out a Labor Day issue, which I left below further down on the front page until tomorrow.  Hope you got the day off and had a nice time with your RV or RV project.
  Contract pilot resume   
 

2600 Hour Report ...petehowell

Andi and I flew down to tailgate at the Iowa State game on Saturday and flipped 2600 on the hobbs.  ISU won and we headed home. After landing back at KANE - out came the oil and in went the borescope.

The filter had the usual carbon chunks and film of ferrous dust on the internal magnet. The finger screen had a few crumblies of carbon. I added a bit over 1 qt over the 50 hours, all of it in the last 15 hours.

Compressions were 76/77/78/77. #2 was stubborn cold(60ish) but tested great after a quick run up. She's old and a bit tired, like me.  --->

 

From the Newest 'My RV Weekend' Thread

(rvanstory) Finished a 3,800 mile trip to the northeast with a bucket list flight down the Hudson River. Loved every second of it!


 

Need Help on Vans Practice Kit

First off, let me just say I am brand spanking new! So, while I am waiting for my RV-14a empennage kit, I am doing the Vans practice kit which looks to be a very short elevator. I am on the Step 10 where it says:

"The special dimple/bucking bar and back rivet plate will be needed to reach the last two rivets."

I have all of the tools from Cleaveland they recommend for the RV-14. Can someone tell me what tools to use and how to rivet these circled? (see pict)

Super excited to start the airplane after learning so much on this first piece!

 

Greg & Rian from the Mothership Webinar 9/6

...runs 5-6 PM PT, 6-7 PM MT, 7-8 PM CT, 8-9PM ET.

 

Tailwheel Input

New to me RV-8 and inspecting the Tailwheel assembly. Setup is Bell TW fork and rocket linkage for steering. My first hack at this - so appreciate the patience and input.

See anything to be concerned about in the pics?

 

 

Sep 5, 2022  Issue #5,643.  Labor Day.
  I went ahead and pushed out a Labor Day edition instead of taking the day off (small business owner mindset). Related to that, I updated the donation page Sunday.  So far this year 1,274 people have sent in their honor system donation (thank you!). As a comparison, there are currently 32,741 registered forum accounts (and easily that many regular unregistered 'lurkers'). 3.8% of the registered readers. Under 2% if you include unregistered 'lurkers'.

  The year is 65% over. Not a huge panic yet because I do a end of year pledge drive of sorts, but the spousal unit and I are currently 3 weeks into having no downstairs a/c (living upstairs) and we're probably waiting another 10 days before we can replace our 35yr old systems due to the usual 2022 issues. Cost is $13K installed. Went out the day after paying the boy's next semester tuition at SMU (not kidding). All this to say that if you think donations don't matter please let me assure you they do.  The donations to date might cover our health insurance (self employed as you know).

  I really want to do this web site full time for the next 20+ years, but I can't do it if I can't make a living.  I've been doing some part time contract flying and I'm entertaining making it full time if I can't get more of a donation rate.  In today's complicated world I've made it as simple as possible ....pay if you use it.  That's all I've ever asked and all I ever will.  You can use a credit card and be done in 60 seconds.

  I need to pay our bills and provide for my family.  Please donate if you use this site so I can keep it going.

Thanks,
Doug (your host).
  Contract pilot resume   

 

This Weekend's 'What did you do' Thread



 

Wheel Pant Jig

I borrowed this idea from Mike Starkey. He got it from Steve Barnard. Whatever, whoever, thank you. It saved my bacon.
The jig is amazing, but I made a few changes. This version works on any pant. Tire just has to be off the ground.
Photo should suffice but a few things might be helpful.

Parts list

1x6x24 hardwood
1-1/2x1-1/2x24 angle iron (twice the width of the pants)
1-1/2-in W x 1-1/2-in H x 6-ft L Zinc-Plated Steel Perforated-Slotted Angle (twice the length of the biggest wheel pant plus a few inches)
6 ea 6-32 x 1-1/4 screws
6 ea 6-32 lock nuts
4 ea 3/8-16 x 4 Carraige bolts
4 ea 3/8-16 nuts
3/16 x 36 polished steel rod
Scrap aluminum angle and 1/8" flat
Clamps

The vertical uprights are slotted for the rod. A scrap piece of flat 1/8" inside and angle outside are clamped to the vertical. It locks the pant perpendicular to the board and allows the pant to be rotated to level or rotated to match the camber. Alignment to the centerline is simple. A center on the jig is measured to the centerline drawn on the floor. Make the distance equal and it's aligned to centerline. The carriage bolts are the feet. I tapped the holes 3/8-16. It can be leveled, but not necessary. A laser level will shoot a level line.
The entire magazine draft text is on my blog.

 

Probable Cause List Updated ...12 page PDF

(782) RV accidents to learn from and discuss. 

Sorted with newest accidents at top.  Probable cause field included with URLs included to more info.

 

New owner - assorted hardware to have handy?

My son and I just bought an RV6A. During the pre-buy inspection we noted that one of the screws was missing from a wheel pant as well as from the trim piece that wraps around the tail/vertical stabilizer (sorry don't know many parts names yet). I also realized that in addition to replacing these screws (which I assume should be AN rated?) that I should pick up some extras of these and other commonly used hardware (e.g. cowling screws, washers etc.) to have handy.
I was hoping Vans might offer an assortment pack - but haven't seen them. Would love to get some part and size suggestions of assorted hardware to keep in the hanger toolbox.

 

Problems with #8 dimples cracking

Hi all,

This is part T-1005B. The task is to dimple the #19 holes for a #8 screw. When I examined the part, the hole was already final sized (actually it was a bit larger than #19) so I didn't drill it. And it didn't have sharp edges so I didn't debur.

The dimples were created with a pneumatic squeezer using Cleveland's #8 dimple dies. The first dimple below shows the crack at 12 o'clock. Note that all of the cracks happened at the location of a dark spot on the metal. The picture of the undimpled hole shows this mark with more clarity. I believe this is some effect from laser cutting, perhaps?

Always, now that the part was toast I figured I'd experiment. I tried deburring and then also slightly overdrilling the next few holes, but both experiments cracked in exactly the same way.

Finally I decided to try drilling my own hole in the same material, deburr, and dimple. These dimples did not exhibit cracking. See the photo of the second dimple.

So my questions:

1) Is this part somehow flawed due to forming the holes?
2) What can I do to avoid this cracking?
3) Is it feasible to repair a crack like this by stop drilling a small hole in the radius of the dimple?

 

US Air Force Lt. Col. (ret.) Alan H. Allison passed away last month at the age of 91.

...son Steve's (6A) moving tribute

He filled many roles during his life: oldest child, big brother, golf caddie, underage bartender, high school basketball starting player, first in his family to go to college, first in his family to enter the military (enrolling in US Air Force advanced ROTC to avoid being drafted and sent to Korea, this after earlier turning down a "sure thing" nomination to the US Naval Academy), husband, father, second in his flight school class, C-119 aircraft commander as a second lieutenant, Century Series aircraft fighter pilot, MBA student, bank Vice President, father-in-law, stepfather, retiree, golfer (always a golfer), fly fisherman, downhill skier, Disabled American Vets shuttle van driver, Aerospace Museum of California docent, grandpa.  --->

 

Thank you Flightline Interiors

When we were doing the final install of the seats we noticed some damage to one of the seat cushions. It was probably 2 years since we received the seats in the kit. Contacted Abby at Flightline no problems we will fix it. Well you know what it's like when you start flying it's hard to stop. So on Monday I drop them a mail and said is it ok I send it back. Of course they said. It arrived Thursday afternoon and it was shipped back Friday am.

Great customer service - and very sharp looking interior.

 

This was "I cannot be that stupid moment".

I was about to drill the holes in the F-661EF flap bearing blocks. I measured the blocks and found that even though they are exactly the same dimensions, the bearing hole was offset from the center of the block (which would be top to bottom in the installed configuration). It was something like 0.620" one side and 0.6 50" the other side (edge to the edge of the hole).

So I thought I will machine an aluminum "plug" that will go in the hole and will connect two bearing blocks together. This way they will be perfectly centered one to another and I will see how offset is the hole (and also so I could locate all four holes precisely on a milling machine).

I machined the plug, put it in the block ... and got the following:

I forgot to multiply the depth of the hole by 2

Luckily, the plug was thick enough that I could drill it, then use the hole to pull it out.

 

I'm devistated and I need some serious help... :(

My 2010 RV7/A engine bay recently caught fire. I'm not sure where to start. I need major help, the engine will probably need sent off, new avionics, and new front cowling top and bottom.. I did not built it, so I don't have the means or know how to repair it. It's at KGKT (Pigeon forge) at the moment. Any help would be extrememly and greatfully taken!

 

Tail Spring Fatigue Failure

Landing back at my home strip I had landed and was on roll out and as I rolled over some very small bumps the tailwheel spring broke. Probably doing about 30 kts at the time, the chains held onto the tail wheel which bounced up and damaged the rudder.

The spring broke at the tail wheel end where it comes out of the tailwheel swivel boss.

If anyone wants to see a picture of it please send me a PM with your email address and I can send a picture or if someone has the ability to put it in the thread.

It is a classic fatigue failure

 

 

Sep 2-5, 2022  Issue #5,642.
  A pic below for your viewing pleasure from a short flight Wednesday morning in our -6.  Unprocessed - just point and shoot with the phone around 0800.  Amazing what that gets you these days.  FYI, Mothership and this site taking Monday off for Labor Day.
  Wishing you and yours a happy, safe and RV-filled weekend.
  Contract pilot resume   


click to enlarge

 

If you didn't know, the rudder top and bottom fairings...

...on the RV-15 engineering prototype were 3D printed.  Posted in the new 3D Printed Parts section of the VAF Forums.

 

Flour Used During Hydroforming

I spoke with Sterling this morning from Van's. He looked at the pictures, and surmised that this is not corrosion or burnt oil splatter. He explained that early into the hydroforming process, the factory used [ed. flour] to allow the material to slip/slide on the forming blocks. During this process, some of the powder material was compressed and formed these spots.

He advised that no action is necessary on my part (scuffing off, priming, etc). My intent has been to not prime the ribs. Though I am starting to reconsider this.

He also explained that the "gouging" scratching from the tooling isn't a concern, but can be buffed out.

 

D-180 : what if it fails a static system test?

I'm having my A/C into an avionics shop for a static system check later this month. I'm worried that my Dynon D-180 might not be accurately reporting altitudes. The unit is over 12 years old and so wouldn't be under warranty anymore. Do any of you know if a D-180 fails a static system check, is there a calibration procedure that an avionics technician can do without removing the unit from the A/C? Or would I be forced to send the unit back to Dynon for repair? Or even worse, would such a failure basically mean that my best option would be to buy a new EFIS?

 

mc607's Wing Workbench Setup ...creative!

 

Hip Surgery Update ...hoyden

I'm home from the hospital and it's all pain and stiffness. The good news is I don't need to be concerned about the hip joint. It's solid, no matter what the surrounding muscles feel. The hospital staff said the pain and stiffness would increase in the days after surgery. I'm doing the OT and PT therapies, getting a few more aids to ease life at home, and generally moving about rather than being sentient. Onward through the pain.

 

Petit Jean is Around the Corner....

 

Aileron hinge bracket rivets

Q: I have an early RV8 slow build wing kit.

The OUTBOARD aileron hinge bracket was already riveted together with bearing. When I cam to fit it to the wing the rivet holes to rear spar were there but there are no rivet holes for row of rivets for W-414 to wing outboard rib W712.

Parts are shown on Drawing 13A and 10A. I have searched other drawings for rivet positions but found nothing. I have 'worked out' positions but hesitate as I find it unusual Vans have not put this detail in the plans. Have checked on line for new plans as this is such an old kit.

Hesitating as I now wonder if I am missing something.... Did email Vans support 4 weeks ago but no reply so far.

What have you done??


A: I just did this
The holes are match-drilled into the rib. The end rib is the same part# as other ribs throughout the wing therefore Vans does not pre-punch those holes since the only place they are needed is in the rib installed on the end.

Tip: Make sure to square up the bracket to the rear spar prior to match-drilling those holes.

 

Question about hole size in F-1039J rudder pedal Jig ...-10

Hi Guys,

I am on Chapter 29 Page 14 step 2 of the RV-10 plans where it directs me to use the supplied part F-1039-J as a jig to drill the 6 Rudder Pedal holes. My question is the plans say these holes should be drilled #12 on mid longerons on each side of the Fuselage. The holes in my F-1039J jig are not #12 size but are larger and #10 sized. Is this a misprint? I can imagine that this part would be "punched" incorrectly at the factory for the wrong size holes. Anybody else experienced this? Since it is a longeron I am waiting to get word before I drill it.

 

Mothership Closed on Labor Day

 

 

Sep 1, 2022  Issue #5,641.
  I created a 3D Printed Parts sub-forum and moved the post mentioned below in there as a start.  I'd ask moderators to slowly over time move 3D printing posts to this subfolder as they stumble across them (if they feel like it - I'll do my best to find them first).  I'm gonna end up buying one of these printers.  You watch <g>.
  Contract pilot resume   
 

Wallpaper Calendar for September

Looking inside the RV-15 Engineering Prototype flap.

 

John Salak's Downloadable 3D Printed -12 Vent Knob ...FREE

For those interested in the Van's VENT-00004 style vent-door knobs, I created a version that can be 3D printed. You can install them using the same RV-12is KAI section 23-08U instructions. The files are available for free on my Printables model page. If you have a multi-material 3D printer you can print the set with the VENT text on the face. The angled cut is to ensure the door opens all the way makes them left and right side specific. Recommend printing with ASA, Nylon, or Polycarbonate material for durability, weight is 5g each in ASA. Most likely cheaper to buy the Van's knobs if you want the plain face, but not as much fun as making your own parts.

 

GX Touch Upgrade - Too Easy Not To Do It! ...Paul Dye

So our RV-3 has been flying with one of the original G3X systems (non-touch) since its first flight. Our screen serial numbers were in the low double digits, and we had significant factory participation in the project. That was eleven years ago - and while the system continued operating flawlessly, "Tsamsiyu" (the RV-3) was getting annoyed that his older brother "Mikey" (the RV-6) had the fancy G3X Touch panel. Under our general rule of "never make an IKran angry", I figured it was time to get a pair of the newer GDU 470 screens - specifically made to be plug-and-play compatible with the old GDU 37x's. And boy, are they!

UPS came at 1130 yesterday, but I wasn't home until 1330, when I unboxed the units in the shop. I swapped airplanes around so that the RV-3 was in the air conditioned shop, took out the old screens (two minutes) and looked at the mounting templates for the new ones. Same size holes (you have to grind out the corners a bit) mounting screw holes in slightly different places. It was about an hour job to cleco the templates in place, drill and grind (die grinders are great), install nutplates, and rivet the mounting rings in place. The new units hook up to the same connectors as the old ones - and it is nothing but software configuration from there.

I took a few breaks, but the hardware was done by 1600, software by 1800 (I broke for dinner), and I taxied out for a magnetometer calibration at sunset. Flew this morning at 0800, and everything works! Better screens, better software, excellent integration to my existing Tru Trak GX Pilot autopilot - easiest EFIS upgrade I have ever done!

Yes, there'll be a complete Article in Kitplanes coming up, but for now - I'm going flying!

 

Help! I need a licence

Maybe someone can suggest an idea?
For years I have wanted to build a Vans plane. We went to about 4 airshows a year selling hangars. Unbelievable fun! I finally settled on the 14A. Took a test fly at Oshkosh and was sold.
It took 4 years for my neighbor Dan and I to build the RV14. What a blast! I would build another one.
During this time I have been flying with instructors and taking the written 3 times now because they are only good for 2 years. I have over 160 hour. And I had a check ride scheduled for April 9th 2020. And of course it was cancelled because of Covid.
Now after all this time has passed I feel like I have lost it all. I can fly OK in 172's but I still need more time in the RV to master it. Big difference!
I have all the hours, current medical, written...
I think the best thing for me is to go to a place away from work and home and camp out till I pass. And it would be best if it where an uncontrolled, the radio is the hardest part for me.

Would anyone have an idea of where to go and who would have such a service? I know I would be a bad student but I would keep at it till I get the ticket.

Building the plane (that now has about 50 hours on it) was easier then getting a licence. At this point it seems to be a huge mountain to climb. But can't wait to fly in and land on the colored dot.

I'm grateful for VAF!!
Thanks, Larry

 

Fuel leaks ...Dono -9A

I recently purchased a RV9A. I have a slow leak at the forward wing root where the fuel lines enter the fuel tank on both wings. I replaced the fuel lines believing that was the issue. But that didn't work. After about two weeks I still have seepage. I inspected the wings. No indication of fuel anywhere on the aft wing root nor the entire wing. I assume this is just a slow seep but I'm having a hard time finding it. Is there an easy way to easily handle this issue?

 

Chasing The Leak: The Epic Continues - Gasket Question

If you've been following the other threads I've posted, bless your soul and thank you for your attention. If you've come this far, perhaps you'll come a little farther...

Inspired by post number 9 from another thread where I've been chasing a leak, Greg Young described a very similar symptom to what I have, which is drops of oil on the bottom of the fuel pump. I replaced my fuel pump last year because it was failing, but I had also hoped maybe my oil leak issue was coming from there and I'd kill two birds with one stone. Alas...

So now, having ruled out the plug as the source of the leak, I am turning my attention to the accessory pad and governor and replacing the gaskets. It's in one of the most inaccessible parts of my engine, and it is directly above where the drops have been collecting and then spewing onto the belly of my airplane.

Here's where I need a little help:

The parts catalog for my motor (ECI Titan O-360 A4B1N) calls for the following three gaskets:

P/N 68316 (#9 in the diagram) - Gasket, Accessory Drive Adapter - This is the one closest to the accessory case. Spruce and everyone else seem to have a P/N 68315 which looks to be the same shape, but is that okay? One number off on the part number - I know that can be significant. Can I use that? It's the most likely candidate for leaking right now.

P/N 69551 (#18 in the diagram) - Gasket, Accessory Drive Adapter - I may be reading the diagram wrong but I don't think this one is part of the prop governor assembly, still, if I'm in there, might as well replace?

P/N 72053 (#19 in the diagram) - Governor Gasket - this is the gasket for the governor itself, I think. I do not think it's leaking, but again, if I'm in there, might as well replace?

I realize this level of effort might be overkill, but I'm trying to eliminate options, and I've already gotten the easy ones - oil lines, rocker covers, case bolts, sump gasket (ok that one wasn't so easy but I did it.)

Appreciate the wisdom and collective thoughts.

(now I'm off to troubleshoot low oil pressure - isolating the sensor today. Yay!)

 

KIA Page 06-03 Question ...-12

Just starting, received kit last week. Reading over the KAI. I see only two, not four, 3/16" holes. Has this been wrong since 2008?

 

 

Aug 31, 2022  Issue #5,640.
  Run up area at my home field Tuesday morning.  Welcome to Texas (called the ranch mgr next door and they got her back home).  It happens.
  Contract pilot resume   
 

 

A day out along the UK coastline ...Richard Welch vid

Just out of interest. There's a folding bike in the back (Dahon). The video is in 4k shot with 2 x Gopro hero 9's using hypersmooth stabilisation. No color correction in post.

Finally, I came across the track because a good friend of mine is teaching the guy playing guitar on it to fly a Cirrus at the moment.

 

Fuel leaks

I recently purchased a RV9A. I have a slow leak at the forward wing root where the fuel lines enter the fuel tank on both wings. I replaced the fuel lines believing that was the issue. But that didn't work. After about two weeks I still have seepage. I inspected the wings. No indication of fuel anywhere on the aft wing root nor the entire wing. I assume this is just a slow seep but I'm having a hard time finding it. Is there an easy way to easily handle this issue?

 

More from this week's 'What Did You Do?' thread



 

A Tour of Otis Holt's 7A Panel

Two years ago I decided to drop everything, build myself a new hangar at KSTS, and finish the plethora of complicated modifications that took my RV-7A out of service for 32 months. This has also taken me away from VAF for quite some time, but now I've got a LOT that I'm looking forward to sharing here. I decided to wait until I had significant flight experience with all of the changes, so now I can boast of 150 squawk-free flight hours over a one year period. This flying has been more or less equally divided between aerobatics, cross-country, instrument, and local pleasure flying. It is remarkable that any one airplane can do all of these things so very well.  --->

 

Weird one - starting issue

Hi folks,

Had a very strange problem at the weekend. Got the aircraft out of the hangar, did a thorough pre-flight inspection, got in, turned on Master Switch, once EFIS was booted, turned the key to start position and engine fires straight up as usual. idled as it normally does. Completed our post-start checks, called for taxy to go get fuel, then once at the fuel farm, shut down normally, refuelled to full on both tanks, got back in, pre-start checks, master on, EFIS booted, turned key and absolutely nothing happened.

EFIS shows good battery charge, recycled the master switch and same problem still. Checked and CBs, all were good. Called tower on the radio and got OK to drag aircraft off the pumps to nearby D with assistance of airside opps, who then gave us a lift back to hangar to get some tools.

Upon returning to aircraft, I got in and thought I would have one more go, low and behold aircraft fires right up as it usually does.

Taxied back to hangar, shut down, waited ten minutes, and went to re-start, again no issues. Repeated this three times all without issue. Went flying for an hour, and got back, shut down, restarted with no issues.

I am therefore at a loss as to why it all of a sudden it refused to do anything when the starter key was turned but was fine 20 minutes later.

Nothing appears to be loose, broken or otherwise U/S on the aircraft so if anyone has any thoughts I'd be keen to hear them.

Aircraft is a RV9A with a O-320-D2A engine with 2 slick magnetos.

Thanks in advance

 

Panel Status ...-14 Rick

The parts for the panel are in there somewhere along with my brakes and hoses.

 

 

Aug 30, 2022  Issue #5,639.
  Contract pilot resume   
 

My RV Weekend ...various




 

12iS Heat Muff Coming Loose

After receiving a link to Rob Carsey's YouTube video on this subject from a fellow iS builder, I thought I'd reach out to the VAF community to see how many others are experiencing this issue...

I think I've found my Heat muff loose every time I've done an oil change, but to a lesser degree after safety wiring the heat muff hose clamp screws the first time it occurred. My friend has had the same issue with around 50 hours on his iS. Rob makes three of us, so wondering how many more are out there?

I sent the attached photo to Van's Support when I found it as shown in the photo during my 200-hr CI. They seemed surprised it was still working loose with the hose clamp screw safety wired. They had no issue with me adding two more FF-00090L threaded rods, 90 degrees from the original, to help hold the heat muff end rings in place. I intended to install them at my next oil change.

So, again, how many other silent majorities are there out there with this issue?

 

Yaw Problem ...-4

I have just begun my Phase I flight tests. I noticed my plane yaws to the left. The ball is one diameter outside the right hand center bracket on take off then straightens out a little in flight but still yaws left. To fly straight I must use the ailerons to turn to the right which causes me to fly right wing low. I have done a quick check but so far have not found anything obvious.

Any suggestions?

 

Bending the F631A Channel ...7A

Hello All,
I have reached the point where I need to bench the F-631A Channel flange from 88 degrees to 92.5 for the canopy frame. My understanding is that this applies only to the outer flange.

What tool did you use to bend the flange around the curved portion? I have a good set of and seamers, however, they're wide and not idea for the curved portion of the channel.

Thanks in advance for your input.

 

JD Air Grab Handles

The long awaited JD Air Grab handles are now available for Side by Side Slider canopy RV's. (RV 8 version is coming).

The handles were a challenge to machine due to the dual radius. The end result is fantastic. These are not drawer pull caliber handles. These are sturdy, easy to install and great looking. Available in natural aluminum and red anodized.

The kit will come with a 3D printed drill guide, the handles and hardware. Easy install on flying aircraft or those under construction.

Both available and ready to ship.

 

 

Aug 29, 2022  Issue #5,638.
  Over the past few days I airlined to a place and contract worked SIC in a thing for a person(s) to a place and back, so no RV over the weekend.  Learning more each time (and grateful for the op).  Still a deer-in-headlights noob giving the CA vision issues from all the eye rolls, but slowly feeling the needle creep a couple of atoms off 'utterly worthless' to 'just below mostly worthless'.  The comparisons to getting comfortable in the RV aren't lost on me, and the 1965 model brain seems to be absorbing at least some of it.
  Looking forward to getting out and seeing the RV this coming week (other side hustle sim support on Sunday = no RV).  Hope you had a wonderful weekend and got to spend lots of time with your RV or RV project..
  Contract pilot resume   
 

Newest RV-3B to fly ...Joesrv4 First Post

Now have 5 hours on my RV-3B. Took me 10 years of on and off again building to get her finished. The paint will be done next spring.

 

Pink Slip ...Scott Hersha

Got my pink slip today. RV-6 SN 22595. Started in 1992. I am at least the third builder. I purchased from a young Vans aircraft prototype engineer in Oregon, so this kit has been around for a while. It's now a certified aircraft. I have a couple things to take care of before my first flight (fuel leak), but that will happen soon. This is my second RV-6, and I'm glad it is still "in business". The RV-6 numbers keep adding up (the most popular all RV models).

 

New Builder Hints Thread

MJarreau submits.  "We put tape covering places where we don't what chips to land when drilling. In this pic, its covering the gap between the main spar step bar and the flange of the spar itself.

We hope this helps someone."

 

Milestone: Wings ON! ...Marlonyoung -4

 

Emp Update and Q ...7/7A

Original poster here, I am just about finished with the fiberglass on the empennage. I did some research here and built my wing cradle and a rolling fuselage dolly as well. Took a tour of the Lycoming plant! Really cool! Cleaned the shop, read every post here on VAF. Still gonna be waiting for 6 weeks or so till QB wings and fuse get here.  Should I install the elevator and rudder to vertical and horizontal now or let them separate till time to mount on the fuselage?

Any advise on receiving the QB shipment? Does it come as wings for cradle, fuselage for dolly, and a big box with all the pieces? What am I missing?

 

Check your 6 (bushings) ...SARLDO -12

Hello all. If you've recently received a Sensenich 2-blade prop, check for the 6 press-fit bushings in the hub. I got a notice from Vans about this and looked. Sure enough, only the outside four had been installed. Good thing I'm not ready to install the prop just yet.

 

Low fuel pressure on start

Hi,
On the last few initial starts on my IO 360A1B, I have noticed an abnormal low fuel pressure... starting at around 3-7 PSI. I watched and timed it today and it slowly rose to its normal value of 29-30 psi after about 90 seconds. Boost pump was off on purpose.
I initially prime with boost on and FP was nominal at about 35psi before I turned it over. Engine 'sounded' normal on start, no apparent falter while the pressure slowly rose. I also got a low FP alert after start which never happens.

Is this a sign of an impending mechanical pump failure?

Taking off the cowl now to inspect

 

Hat Sighting ...Luke

We took it two days ago in Venice, Italy. Close to the historical Lido airport.  We feel so lucky to live 25 mins flying from there.

 

 

Aug 26, 2022  Issue #5,637.
  Wishing you and yours a happy, safe and RV-filled weekend.
  Contract pilot resume   
 

RV-6 vs Hip Replacement Surgery

I am having left hip replacement surgery next Tuesday. I can imagine this will put a crimp in my flying. If you have had this done or know someone who has, can you share your experience with recovery and the process of getting back into the front seat? I will talk with the PT folks tomorrow. Stepping up on the wing is the most strenuous thing I do with that hip, and lately it has been quite sporting. But oh so worth it once I'm in. Maybe I need to practice stepping up on the wing with my right leg until things heal back.

 

Fixing a fuel leak

I'm just about ready to fly my new RV6 for the first time, and yesterday, I found a fuel leak. Fuel has been in my tanks for about two weeks and used for testing with no leaks until yesterday. It's a very slow leak - evaporates before it can drip to the floor. Just a little blue line around a rivet on the inboard rib flange on the bottom. I didn't build the wings, or the tanks, but I did remove the tanks when I bought the kit to replace the cork gaskets under the fuel level floats. I re-installed the floats with proseal and pressure tested the tanks with balloons - successfully. I plan to remove the tank for easier access and remove the large access panel to make the repair. The leak is on a rivet in the inboard tank rib where I installed a countersunk plate nut for the wing root fairing. This RV6 didn't have much of a flange for platenut installation, and the platenuts are sitting close to the web of that inboard rib. The platenut rivets are along the same line as the rivets securing the rib to the tank skin. I suspect that there isn't much proseal on the inside of that inboard rib to tank skin area, and I plan to clean it up and proseal a fillet along that line on the inside.

My question is about cure time. It's pretty warm here in Cincinnati, so it should cure fairly quickly. I've read online that full cure takes 3 days at 70* F, but how long should I wait before putting fuel in the tank? Also, I've read about using chem seal CS 3600 over the poly sulfide (proseal). Anyone have experience with that? Any suggestions are appreciated.

I'm kind of anxious to fly this thing - then this... My inspection is tomorrow.

 

From Last Weekend's 'My RV Weekend' Thread ...Walt Hastings 9A

Wings Over Camarillo Airshow! KCMA

 

Three holes in T-1002 ...-10

(Ron) I tried to search for my answer but had no luck. I would like to know what the center hole is for in the bottom center of the tank baffle # T-1002 and tank skin. There are three holes close together and the rivet call out leaves it open, does anything go in it later or is it simply a drain hole.

(Bruce) I ran across this today. I'm building a set of tanks for an RV-10.  I would assume that the extra hole is used just to make sure that this flange gets aligned with the lower skin.  Center of the photo shows the extra hole between the normal spacing of the rivets on the tank baffle to skin rivets.  I had it on wrong and had to flip the baffle around 180 degrees.  No mention of this extra alignment hole in the plans or on the rivet callout.

 

ANL Fuse Holders & Shunt ...-14

I'm a bit stumped. I'm trying to install two ANL fuse holders and a shunt for each on my RV-14. Best practices say that they should be within 6" of the battery contactor. The RV-14 has the battery and starter contactor in a specific place on the firewall.

The ANL holders and shunts are much larger than I anticipated. Does anybody have any pictures and/or recommendations based of how they did it?

(some pics in replies)


 

Delivery scare

Had a bit of a scare. FedEx driver starts by saying he's going to need my help because the pallet they shipped it on was ****. I looked in the truck and saw an engine covered in plastic with pieces of pallet laying on and around it. I remembered guys saying Lycoming had it encased in foam and cardboard, so I was confused. Looking further in the truck I saw this Lycoming box and told the guy that heap wasn't mine, he looked and confirmed. My heart began beating again and color returned to my face. ALL GOOD!

 

Van's Update and Kit Crating Schedule Changes

...Greg at Mothership

A brief update regarding email communications we have sent today to those customers with kits on order, where the delivery dates for those kits had to be adjusted due to a handful of reasons that have impacted our ability to meet the original dates.  --->

 

Optional Service Bulletin Kit for RV-12 Main Gear Channel Update ...Mothership

We've released Service Bulletin SB-00040, which can optionally be installed on legacy/original model RV-12 aircraft. The SB-00040 kit includes the parts and instructions needed to proactively add additional reinforcement to the landing gear beam and was developed based on field experience where flight school aircraft subject to repeated hard landings had rivet failure and/or fatigue issues as described in the bulletin.

We have produced a handful of kits that can be used to make the changes described in this service bulletin. Note that this is not a mandatory service bulletin. Van's recommends compliance for operating environments where repeated heavy and unusual landing loads might occur, such as in flight training or on unusually rough landing surfaces.

Note: This service bulletin applies only to the original model RV-12 and is not applicable to the RV-12iS, which utilizes a different design/structure.

 

New SB Published on Mothership

...all models

 

 

Aug 25, 2022  Issue #5,636.
  Edition push time could vary from nominal tomorrow.  Dance card full for a bit.
  Contract pilot resume   
 


Buddy Mike W's RV-6 getting primed.

 

Van's Update and Kit Crating Schedule Changes

...Greg at Mothership

A brief update regarding email communications we have sent today to those customers with kits on order, where the delivery dates for those kits had to be adjusted due to a handful of reasons that have impacted our ability to meet the original dates.

A combination of international shipping and partner manufacturing delays have slowed the delivery of "Quick Build" kits to Van's. Container shipping delays can have significant downstream impacts on finished kit delivery timing as well as labor availability. As a result, we've had to adjust quick build kit estimated crating dates and we have communicated the related schedule change to affected customers via email.

For "Standard" kits, due to a series of unanticipated internal and external manufacturing delays associated with critical components for certain kits, we have had to extend estimated crating schedules for some kits. A number of delays - related to materials acquisition, the resulting manufacturing impacts, and delays with third-party manufacturers - have combined to slow completion of the affected kits. We have communicated the related schedule change to affected customers via email.

For a handful of customers, we'd requested and received final payment for their order in anticipation the previously-planned crating window. Due to the unplanned delays and schedule shift, we have offered those customers the option of receiving a refund of their final payment amount until we get closer to crating their kit. Those customers will maintain their place in line and we will reach out to them for the final payment when we get close to the new dates and have the critical parts required to pack the kit.

This is frustrating for all of us. We are working to improve the situation and have made meaningful strides on our internal processes related to forecasting, planning, and execution of our in-house manufacturing; crating of kits; truck shipping; and many other aspects of what we do. We continue to work on communication tools and workforce hiring (which has also proven challenging, although we think we are seeing some improvements in work force availability). We are working with and pushing our third-party vendors and suppliers to communicate schedules and deliver, and we will maintain that pressure on those parties.

We will be posting a video update next week, covering the current environment and some of the changes we've been able to make. When that video is up I will be sure to link it here on VAF, of course.

We appreciate the community support, and the feedback we receive. Thank you!

 

Aileron hinge bracket spread slightly while riveting

Spread only one of three layers and Aft of the com-3-5 bearing, I can't see it coming out of there but would like to know what others think.

 

Fish Fry is Back October 1st, French Lick, IN (KFRH)

The Fish Fry is back on for this year at French Lick, IN (KFRH)

It will be from 11:00-3:00 or until we run out of fish.

We will have the same fixings as we did 3 years ago.
Cole slaw, baked beans, chips, and a drink.
Free will donation.

Please mark your calendar, come out, & support this great event. Our last one had over 70 planes on the ramp from all over the United States. We hope to top it this year.

Any questions, don't hesitate to email me, call, or text.

Respectfully,

Darren & Traci Kerns
RV7 N599DT
KFRH

 

RV-12 Louver Love ...some pics


 

Carbon Fiber Reinforcing Cowl ...rockitdoc

I don't want my cowl to 'bulge' between the Skybolts, so I decreased the spacing to 3" and now am reinforcing the edge with carbon fiber.

Got the fiber today from Spruce.

Epoxied in place and tomorrow I will fit and drill holes!

 

Pretty Neat Corner Work Station

...posted by Bruce

 

 

Aug 24, 2022  Issue #5,635.
  Contract pilot resume   
 

From the Weekend Thread ...crabandy

Had to wait a bit for the fog to clear this morning.

 

David Paule -3B Build Update

It's been a while since I've posted, sorry. I've worked on a small variety of things on the cowl and its cheek extensions, making minor progress. Here's a rough summary.

I figured out an imperfect but satisfactory approach to safetying the hinge pin that's the battery access hatch lock. It had baffled me for too long. I'd hoped to be able to use safety wire but it appears as if using McDaniel's safety cable will be a lot easier. Hint, if you're planning on buying this plane when I sell it, get one of those things; you'll eventually need it. The red ellipse and arrow identifies the cable and the restrained latch.

 

Sudden fuel pressure drop

Hi.
We are having an issue with the fuel pressure in my rv7. The engine is an io360 with an fm150. During the climb the fuel pressure is steady but drops gradually and then when running lop the fuel pressure fluctuates between 22-24psi. After about an hour the fuel pressure takes a very sudden drop to under 15 psi. The electric pump increases the pressure to a stable 28, increasing in the descent. The fuel flow and egt also fluctuate so I'm assuming it's not an indication. The vents seem to be clear, fuel lines are all firesleeved fwd of the firewall and there is a cooling shroud on the mechanical fuel pump.
Has anyone had these issues or know of any fixes?

 

Hard to find fuse style

Does anyone know who supplies these rounded top fuses. These are the ones with the LED that shines when the fuse is blown. I have found the flat top ones everywhere but these rounded ones are like hen's teeth to find.

The flat ones work, this is about appearance.

 

AOG: Possibly Dead Alternator?

Voltage slowly dropped to ~10.5V in flight, cycling alternator field circuit didn't help, currently safely on the ground in a hangar. Any troubleshooting advice would be much appreciated!

Electrical System: VPX
EFIS: Dynon Skyview
Alternator: not positive about the model but it appears to be the old Vans FWF-supplied model. It's labeled "NL" on the back, and has the same connections shown here:

Debugging so far:
- With the engine running or stopped, the VPX shows zero current draw from the alternator field circuit.
- With the engine off, I get full battery voltage (12.5) on both of the vertical spades on the alternator wiring plug (reference PDF above for image).
- Immediately after turning off the alternator circuit on the VPX, I still get 11.6V on both vertical terminals on the harness. I "hand propped" the propeller a few revolutions with the harness connected to see if there was a capacitance that might be keeping those lines energized and no change. I'll come back to the plane later to see if there's a capacitor that just needs time to discharge, but it seems strange that there would still be voltage.
- I took a hacksaw blade and placed it next to the alternator with the field engaged (engine off) but did NOT feel a magnetic pull.
- On the Alternator, I measure 10.9MOhms resistance between the two vertical spades, and open circuit between any other pair of two spades. I didn't think to check resistance to ground or the output B terminal while at the hangar, but can do so tonight if that's helpful.

Other note: I have a battery minder, so I'm able to keep it topped up and start the engine (within reason) as much as I need to for debugging.

Based on this, I'm suspecting that the alternator has indeed died and will need to be replaced, but posting here in case anyone sees something that I'm missing.

Two other questions:
- Does anybody know what model alternator Vans used to supply with the FWF kit, before the change mentioned in the PDF above, and what is currently available that is compatible (likely needing to disconnect the second vertical spade from the battery sense line as mentioned in the PDF)?
- Is this considered and internally or externally regulated alternator?

 

Updated RV8 Panel ...RV8Driver

Last year I finally updated my 16 year old RV8 panel to an IFR panel. Dynon Skyview stayed the same but updated my COMM, TRXPDR, Intercom, and added G400, ADS-B IN/OUT, & Autopilot buttons.

 

When can tanks be "permanently" attached?

The instructions tell you to mount the tank on the spar with half of the bolts and screws just before riveting the top skins on. Does the tank have to come off again at some point, or what's the driver behind only partially installing screws and bolts?

 

 

Aug 23, 2022  Issue #5,634.
  Honest to goodness rain in N.TX Monday.  No flying (sad), but I couldn't find a single person that wasn't OK with it (happy).  It's been a loong time coming.  Finally.  Pic below outside the hangar - felt swell to not be 100F.
  Contract pilot resume   
 

 

My RV Weekend ...more entries

(ty1295)  Flew with my buddies at Smoke On. Friday night was National Anthem for the minor League Baseball team here in Louisville, then the local high school football team which got attention on the local news.

[ed. You'll enjoy the vid at the link.  v/r,dr]

 

(RicoB)  Got to display the airplane at the Airshow. Wings over Camarillo


(bruceh) Flew up to Long Beach for a party with old friends and visited my family. Had to wait until almost 2pm on Sunday for the low overcast to burn off, then a quick flight back to Ramona. Drove home with a detour to go pick up our wine club shipment at a local winery and ran into another RV builder there.

Summer for us is officially over! I start back at Miramar College tonight with more A&P classes: Hydraulics, Airframe Electrical, Recips, and Lubrication. I should finish up my Airframe work this semester, and Powerplant in the Spring. My wife officially is back with students today teaching High School Engineering classes, including Aeronautical Engineering.

 

Welcome Plane Grips Co.

[ed. New advertiser selling 3D printed aircraft control grips.  As low as $55.  Their ad lives in the Previous Day's News section. v/r,dr]

(from David the owner) "A little about me: I'm a one-man operation out of my home here in Edmonds, WA. I work for an aerospace manufacturer as my day job and build my plane (a Bearhawk sadly not an RV though I would like to build a -10 some day) and occasionally print things in my off time. My wife Christina and I had our first child Daniel in January.  My website is planegrips.com if you'd like to check it out."

 

Smoke On Aviation Clinic Oct 21-23

Smoke On Aviation Formation Clinic 2022:

Smoke On Aviation, out of Louisville Kentucky, is happy to announce our 1st Formation Clinic, October 21-23, 2022, at Lebanon-Springfield Airport (6I2). The clinic is intended for all pilots, including those with little to no experience. For the pilots with prior four ship experience, you will have an opportunity to hone your skills across several flights on Saturday and an "all up" flight on Sunday. For those without experience, Friday evening's ground school is a great way to access the knowledge needed for safe formation flight basics and to build a network of pilots to help you gain experience outside of the clinic.  --->

 

Cowling continuing ...John S 9A

I glued on the windscreen and aft canopy skirt with Sikaflex; This went as planned with no real drama.

I am working on the cowling now. I have the new nose gear, so the bottom is attached not with hinge material, but rather with screws into a plate. The sides and top still use the hinges.

I decided long ago that I would get the cowling and baffling done before putting the plane on the gear. So far the plan is working out well.

Today I drilled the bottom attachment screws 1/8" for cleco's. I will up drill for the 8-32 screws once every thing fits.

I found getting the front of the top and bottom sections trimmed and fitted was the secret to making the rear part line up correctly.

Attached is a picture of how I used a bottle jack to push everything into position to drill the bottom screw holes. Having the plane on a low stand, and not on the gear, really paid off.

I just need to do final trim on the fuse sides and the cowling sides, then install the hinges.

I will probably finish the baffles, the flap motor, elevator control linkages, and all the stuff inside before putting it on the gear.

It is starting to fell like a real airplane in pieces, ready for some Krazy Glue and baking soda to finish up.

 

First Flight on the Mothership

 

Manifold pressure drop

I have a manifold pressure question. I seem to have experienced a drop in manifold pressure at full power. Some background.

Engine - YIO360MIB
Total time - 280 hours

The engine is developing full power and performing normally. Normal temps. oil pressure, etc. at lower power settings the pressure seems to be reflecting normal levels. Fuel flow also normal.

I have inspected the system and can find no leaks or issues. Here in Anchorage we have been experiencing much wetter weather than normal and was wondering if that might be the culprit. I did replace the sensing unit about 50 hours ago.

thoughts?

 

 

Aug 22, 2022  Issue #5,633.
  Good edition today packed full of vitamins R & V.  Thanks again to those who help keep this site afloat. 
  Contract pilot resume   
 

My RV Weekend

(Randall Henderson -6)  North Oregon Coast.  Took a friend up for a nice coastal flight, I love the colors of the dune grass between KAST and my home base of 56S (Seaside OR) this time of year.

 

Status Report ...motodave

Wings are done.  Just need to finish a couple things at home including; mounting the flaps (hinges), finish wingtips and few minor FW forward items and it's off to the airport to get it put back together. Then lots of paperwork, weighing it, testing the engine and paper work.... and a bunch of stuff I haven't thought of yet

 

Panel Upgrade After 20 Years ...catmandu

Just finished updating mine. I thought I was going full G3x when I bought the plane, but the warbird feel of the round dials grew on me. Plus, my wallet is happier. Splurged and had Stein make me a harness, THAT was worth every penny.

New, modern, and digital:

 

This may end being my most expensive mistake yet

I got careless with my C-frame and made a figure 8 in one of the fuel tank skin holes where a rib attaches. I carefully drilled it up to #30, deburred as much as I dared, then re-dimpled #30. I noticed cracking in that hole and deburred more as much as I dared. This is the result. Still some cracking, it seems.

 

RV10 Real World Performance at Various Altitudes ...Randy Vanstory

Finally got an oxygen bottle for higher levels. So, took the 10 up today to see how it performed at various higher altitudes. I have a standard compression IO-540 and 2-blade Hartzell prop. Tested at 8,500 / 10,500 / 12,500 / 14,500 / 16,500 and 17,500 all running lean of peak @ 2,400 rpm and WOT. I was surprised how little KTAS degraded at the higher altitudes (from 169KTAS to 162 KTAS) and it performed equally well from 8,500 to 12,500 ft. It seemed to be happiest at 12,500 with lower GPH fuel burn and 168 KTAS.

Also surprised how efficient it got at higher altitudes. At 17,500 Garmin showed 19.5 statute miles per gallon! Here's pics of the performance at 2,000 increments....

 

Signs of Use Thread Resurrected ...Paul chimes in

It's fun when someone resurrects a thread from well over a decade ago!

I'm sitting in the workshop with the Valkyrie beside me, taking a break from working behind the panel (yet another piece of test equipment going in, trying to sort out wiring scars from many such tests over the years...), and looking at a logbook with just show of 2100 hours. She still looks god enough to have spent the day on Boeing Plaza last month, but there are lots of little dings...one from a rock on a back country strip, and other from where a tent peg dropped while unloading at a campsite. There are some cracks in the cowl paint from years of heat, and yeah - I can;t tell you how many times the wheel pants have been rebuilt - right now, they look pretty good, but in a year? Who knows...

Fly 'em, enjoy 'em, and if your thing is keeping them in perfect condition while doing those things, more power to you! I still wash, but rarely wax, and I stopped touching up paint when I acquired more airplanes to care for. Doesn't; mean I don't like anymore - it just means that we are comfortable together as we are...

 

Newly Flying RVs Reported on the Mothership



 

Total? Dynamic? Static? Are you feeling it?

Happy Friday. Interesting Engine Cooling thread has me thinking about an often misunderstood application of a relatively simple relationship; Total, dynamic, and static pressure. Hopefully the Mods will allow this as it is applicable to our endeavors.

The first picture is the test set-up. A fan is drawing air through the test chamber. Like our flying aircraft, it is outside or basically an infinitely large room. Water is the fluid in the manometer tube. For us nerds that want to overcomplicate things, don't; Flow is not turbulent, no compressibility, ignore friction effects.

The second picture has the relevant parameters (?)

If VAF is similar to the undergrad engineering population; one third will get the answer, another third will be wrong initially and then get the correct solution, another third will tell me I'm an idiot.

Feel free to make assumptions. Are there enough listed parameters to determine water column height X? If so, what is it?


 

SDS checklist question - engine fire during start (hypothetical)

Standard procedure for engine fire during start is to keep cranking and suck the fire back into the engine where it belongs. This makes sense for carbs and mechanical injection, but is it the best for SDS? I would guess this will happen much less frequently with the SDS than a standard fuel setup, but is the standard response still valid?

 

grayforge Panel Status

 

cpfeifer Status Report

empannage work
While I have been waiting for the rib to come from Van's I worked on the elevators. I got the stiffeners match drilled, and the 615PP trim access reinforcement plate match drilled, and the nut plates riveted on. I then got them primed and back riveted on the stiffeners. I have decided to use Stewards System Ekoprime for my primer.

 

Back Riveting Question

I've been charging along on my tail kit. I hope to be done in the next couple weeks. I'm currently back riveting stiffeners into the elevator skins. I'm noticing that some of the rivets, probably about half, seem to very slightly clinch over to one side. I've tried about everything possible to change that, including different air pressures, making extra sure the rivet gun is square to the work, etc, but it seems to keep happening. Is this normal? I feel like the rudder went much better, but those rivets were shorter. I asked my tech advisor and he said to make sure the rivet was centered in the back rivet set. I tried that and made extra sure, but same result. I think I'm pretty good at bucking rivets, so I bucked a couple rows and noticed that some of those rivets did it too. Any thoughts? Is this normal? Am I being too critical? Here's a picture.

 

 

Aug 19-21, 2022  Issue #5,632.
  Wishing you and yours a happy, safe and RV-filled weekend.
  Contract pilot resume   
 

Tony Kirk's Weekend

Extended Weekend Trip
Monday is still technically the weekend if you play hooky from work to go flying

My son needed to go to Long Island, NY to pick up a car he bought and asked if I would take him. Why not I thought, I've always wanted to fly the Hudson River Skyline tour.

We had a great flight. I highly recommend you take this flight if you get the opportunity!

Being on flight following with NYC approach before entering the area made it real easy. An extra set of eyes helped but it was a piece of cake compared to the Fisk arrival last month!

Sorry if you had to wait on hold for tech support on Monday while I was out goofing off. Please don't tell Greg. <g>

 

My DIY Tug - Just One of Many ...HFS

Here's a pic of my homemade tug I use on my Rocket. I used to push it around by hand, but getting too old for that now.

This one uses a 24 VDC gear motor out of a powered wheelchair, and a hand grip throttle for speed control. A large DPDT switch (sized mostly for convenience) changes direction.

Because of the surface conditions, I needed quite a bit of "tractive" effort to move the plane - consequently that is why I have two, heavy duty 12 VDC batteries in series, and a 45 lb steel ballast weight underneath the frame + the weight of the tail wheel centered over the drive wheels.

Yes, I have to lift (see "stored" handle on tug handle) the TW into the tug socket - but have done that in my self powered version for the last 20 years - and it's no "biggie". Maybe it will be someday, but not yet.

It does what I need it to do - just one more way to skin that cat.

YMMV - probably for the better.

HFS

 

79*F and No Kidding Rain in N.TX

Thursday morning at my home field (52F).  Flew the RV-6 for the first time since returning from OSH.  Let's just say it's been hot.  Of note on the full size image 79*F on the OAT bottom left PFD.  Oh baby!

Your eyes aren't deceiving you...that's an OVC I'm under.  In N.TX.  In summer.

 

Amp Meter Oscillation

Anyone have any thoughts on my amp meter oscillation? It's done this from day one and I really haven't considered it a discrepancy until flying with a previous co-worker who seemed to think it was concerning.

My alternator is from a older Honda, 35 amp and my regulator from an old Ford LTD.

vid

As always, Thanks for your thoughts,
__________________
Steven Hild

 

Border Collie PIREP ...Carl Froehlich

My "new to me" rescue Border Collie got her first ride in the back of my old RV-10 the other day. She did just fine - spent some time looking out the window then curled up on the seat.

I’m still working out the process to get her to ride in the back of the RV-8. Baby steps...


 

Oil Cooler Drain Plug ...pilotkms has one

Posted this before. This is how I drain my cooler. Have to think ahead.

 

 

Aug 18, 2022  Issue #5,631.
  Contract pilot resume   
 

Storage Idea

I needed a place to store/hide some balloons for my daughter's 10th birthday and the plane happens to be next to the compressor so...

 

Take 2! ...Pete Howell

Now that I is more smart, I gots more datas. Tapped the static system. Flew big squares, used Ottopilot. Used the Manometer function that averages readings over time to get a better result. Used Test Pilot Sheet to verify speeds flown. Despite what Andi says, i can be trained.

This is what I had time to get tonight. Let me know if this looks correct.

(Upper cowl press - aircraft static press) / calculated freestream dynamic press = Cp

Over 0.8 is good. I fall short........more work to do. Thanks Dan, Bill and others.

 

Survival Kit Additions

I just updated my personal SERE kit. Altoids tin, slight larger than the old Sucrets tin. Inside: Leatherman Micra (scissors, knife, tweezers, screwdrivers, etc) mini-Bic wrapped with 50' 10lb Spiderwire fishing line (very tiny, very strong, can be used to fish or sew or anything in between). high quality liquid filled button compass, 3' 1" Gorilla tape on a bic pen body cut down to 1", 2 needles treaded with Spiderwire, pint Ziploc bag for water treatment, 8 Aquatabs, 20' of small diameter braded line about 100' test, 2 soda straws about 2" long with the end melted containing Neosporin and Betadine, 2g Celox (stops massive bleading) and a mini LED light.

Not much in the way of food or shelter. In a survival situation you should have what you have on and maybe a crashed airplane. You can do without food for a month, without water for maybe three days.

I have a much larger survival kit in the RV-4 that is in a backpack. I might go into that later

 

Was in the Army dental corps in the past. I have carried Dental floss with me into the wild any and all the time.
It is very light, strong, and useful. I once used it to tie a deer to a pole to drag out of a canyon and a mile back to the truck.
Good stuff. Yes paracord is strong and I have it cause I have done rock climbing. But, I can carry a lot more dental floss for the same weight. And you can even floss your teeth with it.
To bad my .357 magnum weights so much, But, that is a must carry. Bears give me shudders. I like to eat not be eaten.
Another great idea. Art

 

Border Collies and RV-7A ...Scott Arnold

Border Collies see the reflection on the ceiling from shinny aluminum. Always fun trying to build with the OCD dogs.

 

F-01405B double-flush

The plans call to rivet the two halves of the F-01405B bulk head bar together using double flush rivet. I installed the first rivet using the length called out in the plans and the rivet is too long. It is not flush on the shop head side.

It looks like the next shorter rivet will not have a very big shop head.

What did you do? Is a slightly proud rivet head ok on one side?

 

Need hardware advise

I need to replace these bolts on my RV-10. I think they are AN-3 but not sure the length. Should I use stainless?

 

 

Aug 17, 2022  Issue #5,630.
  Contract pilot resume   
 

Darin Watson's RV Weekend

....from this week's "What did you do" thread

Went to Ram Falls.  Saturday morning took a 40 min hop from Springbank (CYBW) to a nice little strip at a Provincial Park; Ram Fall. Beautiful flight out, shared lunch with some nice folks from the flying club and shook our kidneys out on the way home in the mid-afternoon in the foothills on 30C day!

 

Optional Service Bulletin Kit for RV-12 Main Gear Channel Update ...Mothership

We've released Service Bulletin SB-00040, which can optionally be installed on legacy/original model RV-12 aircraft. The SB-00040 kit includes the parts and instructions needed to proactively add additional reinforcement to the landing gear beam and was developed based on field experience where flight school aircraft subject to repeated hard landings had rivet failure and/or fatigue issues as described in the bulletin.

We have produced a handful of kits that can be used to make the changes described in this service bulletin. Note that this is not a mandatory service bulletin. Van's recommends compliance for operating environments where repeated heavy and unusual landing loads might occur, such as in flight training or on unusually rough landing surfaces.

Note: This service bulletin applies only to the original model RV-12 and is not applicable to the RV-12iS, which utilizes a different design/structure.

 

RV-10 Builder 'arr' Checking in

Hi all,

I haven't posted for a bit.  The canopy work is about to start.  Most control systems are good to go.

The slow-build wings are collecting dust and I can't wait to get going on them with the ER tanks option from sky designs.

In the meantime, The RV6A purchase is complete along with the endorsement to fly the beauty!

So fun to fly! Finally !

Andrew

 

Spar Caps ...-14

I matched drilled the spar caps on the front horizontal stab spar , very happy with my work, until I read the plans again , I thought 5 times was enough.
I have match drilled the flange to #30 size , the plan calls for number #40 size. Now I know the difference between webbing and flange.

I have sent vans support a message , asking them if it is ok to use the #30 size rivet in the flange.

Has anyone else done this , and what was the outcome.
It takes weeks to get replacement parts hoping I can fix this with the larger rivet and of course upsizing the corresponding holes

 

Shop length for the big join

Q: Can someone tell me how much length we need in our shop in order to perform the tailcone to fuse join? A figure with or without the engine mount would work for me.

If someone is at this step, could you bust out a tape measure and give me a working number?

A: (Art Jackson) I pulled out a virtual tape measure and scaled it off the 3 view drawing using Screen Calipers (very handy for measuring off drawings, Google to find it)

Edit: The inch values are correct but I rechecked my conversion to feet and inches and found I was off a bit. Should be 14 ft. 8 in. and 17 ft. 6 in.

 

RV-4 plans

Q: Would anyone be willing to share any build plans specifically for the throttle quadrant? Don't have a quadrant and would like to install one at annual.. Wanted to ask before I order the plans from vans.

A: (Greg) As long as you have sent the paperwork to have the RV-4 in your name, you should be able to create a customer account on our web store and add your airplane, and then see the RV-4 PDF plans there (including the OP plans).

 

New SB Published on Mothership

...all models

 

RV8 Rudder Trim ...moespeeds

My 8 needed a tab on the rudder, as it requires a touch of right rudder in level cruise. I was considering various options when I came across this excellent idea in Danny King's RV8 at Oshkosh a few weeks ago.

I did some googling and couldn't find anything else like this, so I figured I'd post this here. Works great, and does not interfere with normal rudder operation no matter how tight I get it.

Spring is McMaster part #9663K91 3/4" ID 1.44 lbs/in
Thread is 5/8-11

I'm going to try a heavier spring (2.44 lbs/in) to see if it will require less turns and still not add any drag in the pedals.

 

Houston area monthly lunch (August 2022)

OK, we've all had 2+ weeks to recover from Oshkosh, so let's get out and have lunch again. This time we'll go back to the old standby at Hooks.

When: Saturday, 8-20, 11:30 AM
Where: Aviator's Grill at Hooks (KDWH)

 

 

Aug 16, 2022  Issue #5,629.
  Contract pilot resume   
 

Sharing the RV Grin ...Mike

It was with pure joy that on the afternoon of 10th August we stood beside the runway at Cromwell, South Island, NZ, and watched as ZK-XTC (RV-6 S/N: 23173) lifted off the ground for the first time. Too many years were spent hiding in the garage and I'd all but given up on the dream of seeing this thing fly. Sam Chartres (RV-6, ZK-SRV) did the honours and it was fantastic to be able to share the RV Grin with him at the end.

This aircraft is powered by a Superior IO-360 driving a Sensenich 72 x 85 FP Prop and weighs in at 1116 lbs. As at this weekend we have 5.6 hours shared between Sam and myself and I can see its going to be a battle over who draws the short straw for each flight during this Phase 1 test period. That said, as much as I'm enjoying the flying of it myself its fantastic to be able sit and watch somebody else take it away and have some fun too.

Typical of any RV the left wing was a little heavy however this was easy to rectify. All the systems are running as expected but I've got a lot to learn as this is really the first time I've flown with the GRT EFIS gear after a lifetime of using steam gauges. The IO-360 is providing heaps of grunt... maybe too much... I'm a little concerned that we can achieve more than 2800 RPM at full throttle and I was expecting this prop to be better suited to the engine.

My wife and kids are chomping to get into the right seat for a fly therefore the pressure is on to get through the 40 hour test period so we can start taking PAX. My daughter went solo in the Bolkow Monsun a couple of weeks ago and she's already eyeing up the RV-6 but I told her she's got to have 200 hours before I'll let he take it. Incentive to get her PPL out of the way.

Here's to a future full of RV Grins!

 

Advertiser Press Release ...Classic Aero

RV-14 Baggage Panels (Classic Aero)
We now have RV-14 baggage area side panels available to compliment our RV-14 cabin area panels. These panels are fully upholstered. They include a small document pouch, "Experimental" embroidery, and carpeted lower areas. One notable feature is the trim around the window area that covers the nuts that are normally visible.

If you have any questions, feel free to ask.

More information can be found at our website.

 

Oil baffle and oil temps

So every Fall I attach an aluminum plate to the backside of my oil cooler to try and keep the oil temps up. It seemed to work ok though the temps were never very high.

I would take it off in the Summer. But once off, the temps rarely got above 180 degrees. Usually more like 160.

This Spring and Summer I kept the baffle on. It's mid August and it's still on. Now the temps are 180-190. 200 if I have to sit at the hold short line for a long time. Temps are int eh green during climbs.

I'm wondering if my Verna-therm is working? I would think that baffle would need to come off in the Summer but so far I can see no need.

Strikes me that something isn't right here.

What do you all think?

 

My RV Weekend ...various




 

Panel suggestions

Hi all

So, over the weekend, several RV4's have appeared in my inbox. Ranging from the fixer upper (priced accordingly and built well but need to look harder at the build) to a very nice glass panel plane (priced a little over my budget but it is pretty) and then a couple more higher in features/quality or just price as well.

One I have been watching for a while and the seller just got into what I consider a more reasonable price (as I am learning about the market and the RV4).

This is the panel, I should say, the interior as I am up for a makeover. I want to go to glass of some sort but not sure I am confident enough in it to not have some redundancy so wondering about using some of the existing gauges. The rest of this plane looks quite nice but I am not a fan of the interior so I think an entire makeover might be in the works. Not overly costly, just time wise. And it has rear rudder pedals so would be a good transitioning plane for me. My CPL instructor was a aerobatics instructor and a little guy so we could have fun in this one (or any of the ones but not all have rear pedals.) I am not large either so the little 4 should be good for us.

Looking at this, what would you suggest? I know there are Garmin guys, Dynon guys, MGL guys, etc so interesting to see what you might suggest, especially in regards to reusing some of the old stuff. So, have fun suggesting how I spend my money, but don't break me! Kidding. But if you have fun with the "here is what I would do game", then please, throw ideas around.

I have contacted Vans for a set of preview plans to better inspect whatever 4 I end up with. That will give me a better idea of the plane construction all around.

 

1000 Hour Report on -14A Full Build ...bmarvel

LONG POST

I thought those of you now flying RV-14s would appreciate a peek into your possible future and those still building are always in need of motivation. This is some feedback on our passing 1000 flight hours in the -14A I first flew on September 8, 2016. For those short on time, here's a quick summary - I plan to die of old age owning this airplane!

BACKGROUND: We decided to build a -14A on December 31, 2013. Our -8A Quick Build had been a great airplane for the 1700 hours we put on it but the 2006 move from California to Colorado introduced something called winter and that back seat was both cold and devoid of instruments.

We started construction in March 2014 in our garage here in Grand Junction, making the project Job One and worked on it almost full time. Building progress was fast as the plans were far more complete than had been the -8A version. The full-build kit morphed from first crate to first flight in two years and four months. I would have opted for the Quick Build but it was not yet available for our airplane, serial number 140134.  -->

 

 

Aug 15, 2022  Issue #5,628.
 
Happiness is.... having your 21yr old son bring his friends out to the hangar to work on one of their cars (pic).  Tools everywhere.  Steering wheel coupler gear replaced, serpentine belt change, oil/filter change and a wash.  Believe it or not they got it all squared away.  My heart sings.
  Still waiting on new a/c unit for the house - later this week.  We're camping out upstairs.  Staycation of sorts.  No worries <g>.
  Hope you had a nice weekend.
  Contract pilot resume   
 

Achtung - Greenland!

...mike_newall vid.  Must see.  One of the best RV videos ever made.

 

Status ...Jeff Long

Center Section & FWD Side Skins cleco'd for the last time!  Finally, for the last time we reattached the Center Section to the Tail cone and cleco'd the FWD Side Skins for riveting!

 

RV 15 on floats

Q: I know there has been some talk of the engineering prototype having a little bit longer wing than the production aircraft might have to help it for through hanger doors. Is there any chance the "long wing" might stick around as a wing extension mod / and leading edge droop mods to go along with the float equipped RV - 15?

Even if it only helps a few knots on the slow speed side of the envelope it's substantial in helping a floatplane get off the water compared to any drag penalty/ loss on the top end especially if you already have floats hanging underneath.

Also the ability to fit through a narrow hangar door isn't nearly the same issue with a float plane because they are rarely in one and if they do end up in a hanger it's probably a bigger one anyway due to the door height requirement.

I know it's super early to be asking these questions but just curious what other people think.

A: (greg at Mothership)
Very early. The wing length *might* change. Not a certain thing. And it already fits in a standard T hangar, as the current wing span on the prototype is 36 ft 6 in. The real question is, does it *need* to be as long as it is now (in combination with several other questions). So, yes - it's early.

We're already thinking about/planning for floats as an option. And we are thinking through the options as to how those might be packaged/etc.

 

Did I make scrap metal?

Getting into my -10 build. Working on the rudder with everything going smooth... until the part about a slight bend to the trailing edge.

Making use of the vise grip style edge breaking tool and I'm concerned with the results. I feel like the material was stretched as it's now wavy with sections barely broken over (as expected) and others very broken.

unfortunately it's hard to get a pic of both sections

 

Need help interpreting borescope for leaking exhaust valve ...david.perl

I posted a couple weeks back in the engine section about a presale that picked up a leaking exhaust valve.

I am hoping perhaps a wider audience will read this as opposed to my OP which is buried deeper.

Long story short, compression on cylinder 1 was 68 cold, dropped after flying hard for 90 mins to 58.

Engine is lycoming IO360 M1b with 400 hours over6 years

I borrowed a friends borescope and posted a link, problem was i was looking at the intake valve and the camera was not great so hard to analyse.

I purchased a HD model of the Ablescope 400 - much better images now. Ive uploaded them to my youtube. Are there any experienced folk here that can give an opinion? I Am also waiting to see if SavvyQA includes borescope analysis and will join that if it does.

 

Stuck valve mystery

I stuck a valve this week and bent a pushrod. I pulled the valve spring expecting it to be stiff or sticky but it seems to have a normal wobble clearance in the guide. I borescoped it and see no reason for it to stick closed.

I have a reamer and pushrod on the way but am baffled as to why it would stick closed like that.

Any ideas?

 

Seen in a Friend's Hangar

Electric winch for raising/lowering things off the floor.

 

Success

Had a day to tinker some more and met with success! Before I reveal the verdict, I want to give a big thank-you to everyone who chimed in to help. This has been a really informative thread and I feel I learned a lot here.

Verdict: So, even after my earlier attempts to enrich the mixture, the mixture was still too lean. When I initially adjusted it, I was afraid I was enriching it too much without results so I stopped and posted to VAF. But it turns out I should have just continued because I only needed about 1/8 of a turn more to get it right.

As for detecting the RPM rise, what ended up working for me was very slowly reducing the mixture (twisting the vernier knob in the lean direction until I could see the rise on the glass display). Doing it this way it was very clear and easy to measure the RPM rise.

Started at zero RPM rise, gave it 1/8 of a turn and observed about 50-60 RPM rise on lean-out. Gave it another 1/8 of a turn and observed 100 RPM rise (too rich). So backed off 1/8 a turn, saw 50 RPM rise, and I think I'm done. After all this I had to re-set the idle speed. I could get it to idle smoothly at 700 RPM, pretty rough at 650 RPM, and 600 RPM was so rough it stumbled and would quit. So I'm going to keep it at 700 RPM at least for Phase 1.

Big thanks again, everyone. This is truly the plane that VAF built!

 

 

Aug 12, 2022  Issue #5,627.
 
We got some afternoon/evening rain Wednesday for the first time in two months - it was glorious.  Then Thursday our 35yr old downstairs a/c unit started hiccupping (again) so we have a call in for a quote for a new unit.  First world problem (push button, no cold, make phone call).  Embrace the suck, I'm told ;^).
  Wishing you and yours a happy, safe, air-conditioned RV-filled weekend.
  Contract pilot resume   
 

27 Minute Video Tour of Danny King's "Beautiful Doll"

Recorded 8/11 at 52F.  No frills video, minimal edits, used the phone mic and virtually no post-production.  Just the content.  Accompanying photos HERE.  I'll get better at shooting these as I do more - looking at wireless mics.  v/r,dr

 

RV-15 at Independence

(Greg@Mothership)
"We are going to try to get the RV-15 to the STOL event on Sunday at Independence.

Its presence will be equipment- and weather/winds-dependent (since we have both ongoing engineering work and some max-wind limits on the airplane in the current configuration and test program phase). Our tentative plan is to fly it down there with one other factory airplane on Sunday morning and have it available to check out."

 

gyoung's Mod'd HF lift table (made into a creeper)

I made a lift creeper from a HF lift table. On my todo is to replace the fixed wheels with swivel castors. Works great for a lot of things, esp my Navion when on jacks. I even use it to support the lower cowling when reinstalling on my RV-6.

 

Petit Jean Reminder

The Petit Jean 2022 Gathering is ON! Sept 16-18

 

Self healing fuel tank seep?

Yes I know; it's not possible for a tank seep to heal itself, i'm just trying to understand the process that could make it seem so.

upon a rival at OSH, I was curious about the fuel burn, I dipped the tanks, and noticed what I thought was a slight inconsistency between the two tanks (Long story short there, I believe it is a bit of math error on my part), but that lead me to do a much closer inspection of the tanks, and noticed stains indicating a moderate seep from the left tank.

I figured out my math error, and after arriving back home after the convention, I pulled that left cosmetic plate between the wing root and fuselage to see what was going on. The previous owner had apparently had a leak there before, and really slathered a lot of proseal in there to fix the problem at the time, so apparently, this had happen before.

I read up here on fuel tank seeps/leaks, and I am planning the repair, but upon observation of the area where the apparent seep is taking place(evidenced by the lovely blue dye left behind), I noticed both the culprit site, and everywhere in the area, were completely dry and had remain so for some time.

In other words, it looked like the seep had healed itself. I know that that's not possible, I'm just trying to understand how there could've been evidence of such a significant seep that has somehow stopped in the meantime. I had cleaned away the majority of the blue dye, to see if it would return, and even did an hour of touching goes just to see what would happen, but upon checking afterwards, there was no indication that any new fuel had leaked out of the original seep site, or anywhere else.

I know it surely will start again, I'm just looking for insight as to how such a thing could be intermittent instead of more or less continuous.

Thoughts?

 

Ralph Inkster's RV Throttle Quad

Just had an idea & made it work. Lots of fabrication involved

 

Page 09-20 Step 4 "Issue" ...-14

It says: "Step 4: Rivet the E-00907-1R Rear Spar to the E-00900A the Right Top Skin as shown in Figure 1."

Don't know what I was thinking at the time, but I managed to rivet it to the Right Bottom Skin.

Is this a major error requiring that I get new skin, rear spar, etc., or can it be dealt with by other means?

 

First pics of panel ...George Fahmy

This past weekend I cut my panel for my twin HDX setup. Still a few more larger components to cut + all the toggles and some smaller items (Hobbs, ELT, etc.). The overall process went a lot smoother than I had expected, and everything turned out straight and square. A more detailed update and set of photos on my build log.

 

Fuel Return Line - AN Fittings

Well, I'm sure this is because I'm a total noob when it comes to AN fittings that it took me several tries to figure this out. I thought I'd share my saga for those that haven't gone through it yet.

I'm not necessarily planning on running EFII, but I thought it couldn't hurt to put in an extra bung in the tank for fuel return. I bought extra VA-141 fuel flanges from Van's and figure I would just cap them off for now.

I had a little trouble figuring out which AN fittings to buy on Van's website so I thought I'd do some research and concluded that I just needed a 3/8" pipe to nipple adapter and a cap to seal it off. I referred to Section 5 and several web sources and concluded I needed an AN816-6D. Ordered it from Spruce for about $8 each - they didn't fit. I didn't even consider that it's a 3/8" fuel line, but the pipe fitting in the bung is what I eye-balled to be 1/2". The AN816-6D has 3/8" on both ends.

So, more online research, and I confidently concluded that I needed an AN816-6-8D to transition from the 3/8" tube (the -6) to the 1/2" fuel flange (the -8D). This was a little harder to find, but Skygeek showed them in stock for about $10 a piece and I ordered them. Skygeek must have not really had them in stock because it took the 2 weeks to ship them. I knew before I even pulled them out of the little paper wrapper it was not the right part. The 3/8" nipple was correct, but the pipe end was huge! What am I missing here? NPT pipe size is what I was missing.

NPT sizes are discussed in Section 5, and I just didn't pay enough attention. It shows 3/8" NPT as closer to 5/8" OD. I confirmed that's what my fuel flange measured. So then why wasn't the original AN816-6D correct? 3/8" nipple and 3/8" NPT, right? No - standard transitions apparently are downsized on the pipe side. So, an AN816-6D is really the same as an AN816-6-4D. I guess everyone probably knows that except me.

So finally figured out that I need an AN816-6-6D and Spruce carries those. 3/8" nipple to a 3/8" NPT. The part arrived today, and it fits! A month-long saga of AN fittings has ended. The parts aren't expensive, but I was paying almost as much in shipping every time I ordered the wrong one. I was getting frustrated.

Hopefully this will save someone out there some heartache. And maybe I just got lucky finally and someone else can better explain the sizing of pipe to nipple transitions.

Panel ...wirejock

My Advanced Panel-less Panel arrived. Just had to put the electronics in to test fit and make airplane noises. Thanks to Scott Schuler for helping. Saved climbing in an out. Two of the cutouts for the small boxes required minor filing. Otherwise, everything slides right in place. I will sleep better tonight.

If anyone is interested, here's how it was done.

I have all the DXF and AI files used to make it. They are only good for the same model panel, but if anyone wants them, shoot me an e-mail. I don't mind sharing my work.

 

 

Aug 11, 2022  Issue #5,626.
 
Hot and sticky in N.TX Wednesday w/a H.I. of 108*F 1500LCL.  Spent 45 minutes at 'VA Fitness' (the treadmill in the corner of the hangar), then lunch with the gang before heading home to throw some grappling hooks up the side of Mt. Email.  It's a big mountain <g>.
  Contract pilot resume   
 

Bill Boyd Talks on the Top of his RV-10

Personally, I don't think you will ever be happy with the appearance until those pulled rivet heads are buried under an adequately done composite transition. Be sure to sand the base metal with 60 grit for adhesion of the epoxy.

I would tend to agree with your painter that such a level of composite prep is part of the build, not part of an ordinary paint job, but I wasn't there to hear what was discussed when you dropped it off.

This canopy to aft deck skin transition takes a fair amount of material and a lot of sculpting/sanding time to get right. I thought I had done a beautiful job on mine until the paint went on and a transition contour line appeared in the finish... too late now but it would have been nice to spot beforehand and do a little more filling and sanding.

Along the fuselage sides where I wiped micro over the rivet heads for a feathered transition to sheet metal sides, I had some issues with the micro chipping off as I sanded it to a fine edge. This was clearly from inadequate tooth on the metal skins, using too fine a sandpaper for prep in those places. Word to the wise.

A lot of work goes into getting this perfect. Apparently, more work than I did, because mine's not as smooth as I'd like. You can see it in places, but you absolutely cannot feel it with fingertips.

 

Adjusting idle mixture before first flight

The one last thing blocking my (IO-360-M1B) first flight test is an incorrectly set idle mixture. I'm still seeing no RPM rise when pulling out the mixture, which indicates an overly lean idle mixture. Tried rotating the idle mixture adjustment wheel on the servo in the "enrich" direction. The only effect it had was to reduce my idle RPM to the point where it wouldn't even idle--obviously there is interplay between idle speed and idle mixture so you need to get them both right. I don't have a good intuitive feel for how much I need to rotate the wheel. 1/4 turn to enrich it properly? 1/2 turn? 3 turns? 10 turns? Who knows? I'm kind of fumbling around in the dark. Then, once I get it right, my idle speed will be off, so I'll need to re-adjust the screw again, which will throw off the idle mixture maybe? Good grief!

I fear that doing this by trial and error is going to cause me to start and stop the engine 100 times before first flight. That doesn't sound nice for a brand new build. Should I be worried about limiting the number of start cycles before I get off the ground?

Also, yes, I know you can do adjustments on a running engine, and no, I won't be doing that.

 

Art's Invasion Stripes

I have a couple during some work that will give you the idea. Yes the stripes go top and bottom back to the flaps. They are 8" wide and 8" apart I believe. Not at hangar so guessing from memory.

 

Water in my Tank - use KRYTOX GPL 205

In Martin Filiatraut's VAF post/blog about his OSH2022 experience, he comments that a fellow RV8 would not start for departure and he subsequently learned that it was due to water in the gas. The storm that rolled thru Saturday nite likely got water into their tanks. They had drained the battery so the cowl had to be removed and time spent recharging the battery. Not the best departure experience.
So back to OSH2019. A similar, or more powerful storm rolled thru that year, coincidentally on the first Saturday, leaving us all very wet. Time to leave on Thursday so i sumped the tanks, draining 2 full testers from each tank. I thought i drained enough and saw the blue tint in the 2nd test of each. Time will tell...
I start up and taxi out to 36L. About 20 minutes after start i get cleared for takeoff. Full throttle, take off, turn right to 150, stay below 1300'. All is good.
About a half hour at cruise 6500', approaching Poplar Grove C77, i switch tanks. I like switching tanks near airports. About 30 seconds later i get the engine stumble u dont want to hear. I immediately switch back to the original tank. That sweet hummmm returns.
I continue on for 20 minutes and land at Dekalb KDBK for fuel. I sump the tanks after filling both to the top. The original tank was fine, no water. The Second tank had water. Another 2 full testers worth. I made sure there was no water left in either tank, and smelled the test from each to verify. Remaining trip home was uneventful.
When i got home i perused VAF and found a recommendation to use KRYTOX to lubricate the gas cap o-ring. Some had mentioned to use other products like EZ-Turn or Fuel Lube. But others had recommended to NOT use those products. The only negative for KRYTOX was the price, at $25 for a small tube. So i ordered the KRYTOX and applied it Immediately.
Since then, i apply it sparingly at CI time. Have not found a drop of water in either gas tank to this day. But my plane rarely sees rain. This recent OSH was the real test. NO water in either tank.
So im a believer in KRYTOX. Thanx to those prior posters that suggested it. I recommend anyone going to OSH, or ANY rainy area, make sure your gas caps are adjusted snuggly and use KRYTOX.

 

Proper rivet size

What would the part number be for a blind rivet to fit in a 3/32" hole? I want a few extras to use where a simple AN426AD3-3.5 has a close fit and hard to get a bucking bar under. Thank you in advance. Reason I'm asking is, I cannot get my hand with a bucking bar up to the leading edge rivets on the horizontal stabilizer to rivet the skin to the front tip of the rib. I talked to Vans tech support and was told I cannot use a MK319BS rivet in that spot because it is on a RV8 aerobatic airplane. Can I drill it out to 1/8" and use a AD41-ABS blind rivet?

 

 

Aug 10, 2022  Issue #5,625.
  Contract pilot resume   
 

Goatflieg's OSH Write-up

 

RV8N542RT's New Panel

 

PaulvS's Fiberglas Emp Fairing POA

The fibreglass intersection fairing F-694B for the empennage on my -6A project does not appear to fit at all well, at least initially, and the gelcoat is rough. There are old posts on this problematic part and what other builders previously did but unfortunately many of the pictures have become lost.

I'm wondering what is the best plan of attack and whether to buy a new and hopefully better F-694B-1 fairing from Vans, or try to fix the existing part, or to make a new part from scratch?

I haven't done any fiberglass work for a while (built a sailing dinghy in my teens) and assume that fixing the current part would mean removing the gel coat and then cutting it up some and making various lap joint extensions around the edges before smoothing with micro. This could well be as much work as making a new part, I guess.

 

SeanB's EarthX Installation ...RV-7

I just swapped out my stock Van's battery box, plus Odyssey PC680. Installed a new EarthX ETX-900 battery with the insulated BB-TH battery case. This case is mirror like finish and looks sharp on the firewall! I do not know how the other EarthX boxes are configured, so you should check for any differences before purchasing.

Comparing the two boxes, the stock box has longer flanges for mounting to the firewall. The EarthX has a series of small holes already present. I was able to swap to different nutplates and use the existing EarthX holes to match the three pre-existing attach points on the plane. Also, the width of the EarthX box was minorly narrower at the flanges. Maybe 0.125". No problem though, as the bottom of this box is not welded together and allows enough flex to align to the firewall holes.

So, not a difficult swap. Install some nutplates and bolt it on! Looks awesome and I will enjoy the weight savings and performance. Plus, the folks at Earth X have been great to work with on all accounts.

 

Learning to fly: Plane built by MST students ready for takeoff

By Paul Feely New Hampshire Union Leader

 

Pics of Bill Peyton's Rudder Lock Setup

This is what I have been using for 10 years without fail. The pvc length is set for an over-center at the pivot point holding the rudder pedals tightly. A #8 screw and cap nut holds the spar side from slipping.

 

48 years in the making - RV grin

Today, my old Air Force friend from 48 years ago, soloed his new to him RV-8. We served together as young instructors back in 1975 and reconnected via RVs. He saw my RV-8 on Facebook and after years of flying, T-37s, T-38s, F-4s, F-16s and lastly many years at United, he just had to have a RV-8. I helped him find a really nice one in the Chicago area and after a thorough pre-purchase, the deal was done and we brought it to it's temporary home in South Carolina. Several minor squawks were corrected while Tony went to visit Bruce Bohannon for as Tony puts it, "the best money I ever spent". So, today was the big day. Tony soloed his new RV-8. Needless to say, we both had that RV grin.

 

 

Aug 9, 2022  Issue #5,624.
  Contract pilot resume   
 

RV Grin over Banbury, Oxfordshire ...Billstone

First RV ride to a mate from the rugby club. He loved it, and is a natural pilot.

 

Longerons are cracked on each side on the front of the roll bar

On my RV 4 the longerons are cracked on each side on the front of the roll bar attachment as attached in the fotos. I'm thinking probably my girl friend riding jump seat has used the roll bar to pull on to get out of the jump seat over the last 10 years. Now, the more I think about it, its probably me using it as dipping bars to maneuver my 230 pound frame in and out.

I'm thinking to stop drill the cracks then a doubler to go on top of the longeron and under the roll bar riveted to the longeron to reinforce it?

Extend the doubler several inches pass the cracks on each side? At least cover where my hands go.

What thickness of doubler?

I could also go under the longeron but could be a lot more difficult to do.

Of course I'm open to any and all recommendations from you all if anyone has been down this path in the past.

 

Oil/Fuel Restrictor Fittings Needed?

Q: (Mike) Howdy Everyone. I have the GRT remote R66 EIS. The fuel and oil senders have 1/8" NPT male threads and a very tiny hole. With these senders, are the restrictor fittings shown in the plans required?

A: (Mel) The restricters are to minimize oil and/or fuel loss in case of a line or sender failure. Not required but highly recommended.

 

Unexplained RPM drop / EGT Rise ...Airzen

I am scratching my head about an oscillating RPM drop and EGT rises on a recent flight. The aircraft experienced a series of oscillating drop on RPM (and power) on a climb out.

This is on an RV-10 with a fuel-injected IO-540, with dual PMAGs. This flight was on a hot day ~95-100 Def F OAT at KSZT. The airplane was performing flawlessly to KSZT prior to this flight - KSZT was a fuel stop and this episode happened on the outbound flight.

A few observations:

1) The fuel pressure is above 20 throughout the episode. (The fuel boost pump was on during initial climb out, turned on again after a few secs as it dropped to 15 momentarily 12:45 to 13:00 mark)
2) EGTs on All the cylinders rise and fall together.
3) The RPM oscillations and the EGT oscillations seem to be correlated.
4) I have not yet seen a similar behavior after this episode. [The aircraft returned to KSZT, spent a night and departed the following morning after a thorough inspection / run-up etc.]

Due to #1 I am inclined to believe that Fuel pressure was not a problem. Is vapor lock / bubbling fuel still a possibility and cause?

Due to #2 It appears whatever the reason is it affected the entire ignition system (both Mags) and that too in-synchrony. I am unable to figure out what - given that both the mags are independent power sources.

Any suggestions / thoughts on where I should be looking?

 

Help us solve a weird Rotax problem! ...Paul Dye

OK, this might be the first time I have ever posted in the R-12 forum... But I just don't have much experience in working on Rotaxes (except in my old jet ski days), and I have a neighbor with a problem in his -12 that has the whole airpark stumped.

For several months, on numerous flights, he has had his oil pressure indication drop to zero after some time in flight. He has changed out the probe with a new one, and has the same symptoms - good oil pressure until sometime in flight, then it drops off to nothing. He's pretty well convinced that he still has oil pressure, because the engine has eaten itself yet! We haven't put a mechanical gauge on it, because we haven't started throwing metric parts and fittings into the tool box.

Now here is where it gets weird. About the same time, his right EGT has started to go high after "some time" in flight. He swapped probes (left to right) and the problem stays with the side (right). he told me that "the spring on the exhaust looks like it has gotten very hot at some time" - which makes me think he really does have an EGT going high on that side. Carb problem that manifests after the engine has ben running awhile? Induction leak that manifests itself after the engine has been running awhile?

He's ready to start chasing the problems up into the "magic box" or the Garmin EIS....but I think he's got a real EGT issue and I have no idea about the oil pressure.

I'm stumped - let's hear from you experienced Rotax types!

 

 

Aug 8, 2022  Issue #5,623.
 
A gentle reminder that if the regular readers don't donate yearly using the honor system, this small business here doesn't run in the black.  Thank you to those readers and advertisers who support it.  Yeah, I spent the weekend in QuickBooks and the year is already 60% over - I tend to get a little jittery after digging into the QuickBook reports ;^).
  Hope you had a nice weekend.  Sorry for the commercial.
  Contract pilot resume   

 

RV-15 from a distance: the Jurassic builder files. ...Smokey Ray

There I was, in front of the Vans booth at OSH 22' having just sneaked up on my buddy DR when....

"Hello Smokey" came a familiar greeting from a familiar face from a galaxy and life chapter far away. Yet it's seemingly a beacon to a supposedly ill-spent youth constructing and flying a personal airplane.

Richard "Dick" VanGrunsven and I go back nearly four decades, long before the current internet and personal device age existed. We've shared ideas and communication with a common theme, experimental RV aircraft design. While building and eventually flying my early RV4 and later RV6X, I've had many chats with "Mr. RV" and found him to literally coin the phrase, quiet genius.

Amid the throngs of Oshkosh 2022 spectators gathered around the RV-15 prototype, Dick and I chatted in a near-undisturbed silence. Somehow we'd been missed in the almost unoccupied Van's booth, holding vigil with Tshirts, hats and kit flyers.

With the obtuse, very unconventional-conventional gear high wing RV15 prototype next to us, Vans wry smile was detectable. When I queried him as to his thoughts on the shiny beast a few feet away his countenance changed to a grin yet his silence spoke volumes. Classic Van.

My association with The "lil' ole airplane company from Oregon" goes back to the late 1980s and a magazine on a F16 squadron coffee table. Seems I was inside our Top Secret 14th Fighter Squadron Vault in Misawa Japan, pondering which of the many restricted viewing volumes I would peruse today. On top of the pile on the table was a dated copy of Kitplanes. I quickly perused the pages while preparing to dive into the volumes of classified literature required of a modern day fighter pilot. At the bottom of a page was a small advertisement titled "total performance" and a picture of a sharp looking sport aircraft with "RV4" labeled below it. I scribbled down their address (websites didn't exist in 1988) and later would write them a note requesting information. What I received would change my aviation perspective and world forever.

A few weeks later my APO address received a large envelope from North Plains, Oregon containing some literature but more importantly a VHS tape. When I cued it up I heard corny music and saw what looked like a fly-in somewhere. It was a grass strip with a guy standing around a bunch of nice RV3s and 4s. He was using a handheld radio to direct traffic and there was a lot of it! Wow, I'm hooked. Regardless of time, cost or hassle, I was in, where do I sign?

My RV4 tail kit was ordered!  Nearly three and a half decades later, that same man is seated on a stool in front of me. We've chatted many times over the years, probably my most profound moment was after documenting a flutter incident in my RV4. Seems I was dodging thunderstorms on my way home from Guard Drill weekend, a 2.5 hour flight in my Four. Cruising at 11,500 surrounded by typical Florida afternoon towering cumulus clouds, I neared home. I began a descent weaving around the clouds as my strip neared. As I attempted to zip thru a hole in the clouds below and to my right, I increased forward stick pressure and my airspeed approached Vne. However comma, my true airspeed was well beyond. It was at this moment I began to notice a slight tickle in the stick which then got more frequent and with stronger pulses. I reduced power even more, held the stick gently with both hands as I slowed in a shallow climb. The rest of the flight was uneventful but many thoughts went thru my cranium. I decided to email Van with the data directly. He responded and suggested writing an article for the RVator that everyone could learn from. This I did and over the years I've received a surprisingly large interest and correspondence concerning it.

But I digress...

"So Smokey, whadda ya think of the 15?"

"Unknown sir as I haven't examined it closely, however it looks like many excellent airplanes from my past."  Having grown up with a Cessna 180 and owned a Maule M5, I'm sure it will serve the mission well.

Van and I would shake hands once again, part ways and I would disappear into the throngs at airplane Mecca. However, I would revisit the 15 during the night airshow to find it abandoned, dark and unlocked. As my special operator friends always said, "if you wanna good look at a target, go at night when no one's around."

Epilogue:
I actually like the RV15 although I've said many times that Van could have stopped at the RV4, sport plane perfection notwithstanding.  It's interesting to see the estimated costs of building one now. Seemingly my old F35 Bonanza cost less than its engine and prop. The panel is another story. I told a friend that I can't afford to buy my RVs back now as they've been discovered!
Build again? Maybe.  RV15?  We will see.  Having actually helped build a Bearhawk 4 and subsequently flying it a lot, The RV15 has some healthy, albeit very capable competition.  It's in the same family of many similar kits and not to mention the similar certified aircraft. Did I say certified?

Yet the RV-15 has one thing the others don't; Vans Aircraft Inc.

With so many other similar designs out there (Murphy, Zenith, Glastar, Rans, etc) we will see if the Aurora Oregon juggernaut can hold the pace with yet another design.

My guess is yes.

V/R
Smokey

 

Gap between rib flange and spar (practice kit)

I'm working on my last project kit before finally starting on my -10 in earnest. This is the control surface practice kit. When the ribs were clekoed to the front spar they were nice and tight; no gaps. As soon as I squeezed the rivets you could watch the flange open up ever so slightly. Same thing happened on both sides. What am I missing that is causing this? TIA!!

 

Resuming Building 7A after 7-year layoff

Captain Sacto here, (although I'm in Boise Idaho now).
My last post was in 2014, so its been a while.
I've finally got a space in a hangar to store my subassemblies, and I'm on a hangar waiting list, meaning that I can restart my building.
Looking at the changes in avionics alone is just amazing.
Glad to be back.
__________________
Tom in Sacramento (Moved to Boise Idaho)
RV-7A, Emp Kit finished (only 2 yrs!).
Wing construction officially started.

 

Ready for weight and balance ...griffg 7A

Just thought I would post a couple of photographs of my aircraft which I have readied so I can do the Weight and Balance on Monday.  When I have completed the weighing I will post the figures.

 

Fuselage Build Question ...Eric Vickery -10

I have a couple of questions. The first one is not specifically 10 related but here it goes. Once I am finished my plane is not going to be painted for a while. Do I need to prime the fiberglas parts?

The second question. I am about to start on the fuselage, however my landing gear mounts are on backorder. Section 25 page 25-3 step 1 it has you use the landing gear mounts to mark Fwd Center Section Bulkhead Assembly for a "notch" you have to remove. I am wondering what is the latest step I will still have access to that area to make the "notch" or do I really need to wait for the landing gear mounts?

 

SpongeBob SquarePants helping out in the shop ...PilotjohnS

 

Back in the saddle!  ...cpfeifer

Well guys I'm back, after almost 3 years! Life just happened and I put the project on hold. I have been working on the horizontal stabilizer. I ran into a problem where the hs-00005 forward most rib flange did not extend far enough hit the skin rivet. I talked to Vans and they told me to just remove some of the flange and that it would be ok put a -3 rivet in the skin.  --->

 

RV-4 Panel Shot ...Jordan

Don't credit me. I bought it this way. But it was nicely completed. Simple, clean.

 

 

Aug 5, 2022  Issue #5,622.
 
Nearly five days after returning home from OSH'22 I finally got all of the stuff unpacked from the RV-6 (below).  Relatively clean and about 3/4 full of gas.  Life is good.  She needs a bath.  Hopefully soon...;^)
 
Wishing you and yours a happy, safe and RV-filled weekend. 
  Contract pilot resume   

 

OSH'22 ...50 years of RVs

Threw some pics and vids into a 3 1/2 min movie.  Did it all on my phone in about 20 minutes, which is crazy amazing.  Pocket-tech is sometimes hard to wrap my head around - ten years back this involved a LOT of gear.

Don't smash that like button.

Don't subscribe.

Don't even watch it.

 

FS Spotlight ...Stein has an engine for sale

CC-340 Engine, 2019, 132hrs SNEW, 0SOH
Hi All,

I have an engine that I ended up with that is now for sale, $37K.
It has 132 hrs since new, but 0 hrs since complete teardown, inspection & repair/ovh at Aerosport Power. You probably know this is a terrific lightweight engine that works well on many RV's.

Here are the details:

*ECI CC340, 180hp, fuel injected, dual LSE Ignitions. This is an experimental engine, not certified.
*Conical Mount.
*Originally sold to and flown on an RV-8 in 2019. The aircraft suffered a non-stoppage prop strike last year and was sent off to Aerosport Power in BC for a complete teardown and IRAN.
*Engine was inspected & repaired at a cost of over $10K, which included four new cylinders, new conn rods, lifters, new bearings and more (can provide Aerosport work order for your review).
*The engine has not flown since and is sitting in the shipping crate here in our conditioned facility.
*Hollow crank that is plugged currently for a FP prop.
*Includes dual LSE Ignition System.
*90 Degree Oil Filter.
*Original log from new.
*No other accessories included.

If you're interested, please contact me off list via PM, phone, email, etc.. As usual with anything we sell, this is a first come first serve deal. As a comparision, "new" ones are currently over $42K.

Cheers,
Stein

 

Gust locks...what worked and what didn't?

I have a 9A. I have used the AntiSplat gust lock for many years. Has always worked as advertised until Saturday, July 23rd. The gust lock did not break. It did pull back, as the wind blew the elevator, enough to pull the forks on the gust lock away from the rudder pedals. This resulted in the rudder being completely free to fling itself back and forth at will. Resulted in punctured skins, but more devastating, trailing edge rivets pulling out and buckling of the skin on the bottom of the rudder. It is difficult to see the buckling on my rudder in the pics below due to the red paint.


 

You Will Enjoy Reading This ...Ken Scott (Kitplanes)

 

Bonderite M-CR 1201

I was planning to use the 1201 product for corrosion resistance on my Skybolt flanges attached to the firewall. But, the instructions for the Henkel product indicate to paint after application, washing and drying. I wasn't planning to paint the flanges, but leave them treated. I contacted Henkel, but so far, no answer.

Anybody have experience with not painting after treating with 1201?

 

HBC Parking Into The Wind

[ed. A thread on the EAA board that I told a few folks I'd spotlight (we don't do organizational policy debate on VAF).  So, if you'd like to chime in, go to the link - EAA management will almost certainly see what you have to say.  v/r,dr]

"After the Big Storm on Saturday evening, conversation again turned to parking HBC with the airplanes facing west, into the prevailing wind, where all the nasty weather comes from. In effect, the most recent storm subjected the whole fleet to a 50~70 mph tail slide, and it seems like it happens every year. There were more than a few damaged airplanes, in particular A-model RV's.

The subject has been brought up by board members and others in the past, without success. Tradition dies hard at OSH, where airplanes have always been parked facing show center, except for the North 40, where they nest nose/tail to pack them in. Jack Pelton was due at the HBC pavilion Sunday evening to dedicate it to Van (entirely deserved!), so a plan was organized to solicit his support with some crowd encouragement...after proper prep via channels. The upshot was the question didn't require audience participation. I spoke with him, he knew the deal, and (I quote) "It's your fly-in. Tell the parking chairman what you want, and that I support it". Being me, I pushed a bit, asking "Can I tell him you said get it done?" The response was a clear "Yes".


That said, there are right and wrong ways to do everything. I think as a group, we greatly respect the volunteers who do the hard work, and nobody, including me, is going to be silly enough to tell them what to do. That probably includes Jack. Change will require consensus.

As Mr. Pelton said, it's your fly-in. If you want to park facing west next year, let's hear it. If not, let's hear that too. Either way, consider the greater good."

 

 

Aug 4, 2022  Issue #5,621.
  Contract pilot resume   
 

From Last Weekend's Thread

(Chris Odens -7)  Was supposed to fly with my son to Oshkosh for Fri-Sun but an iffy Sunday morning forecast and some can't miss plans for Sunday night caused a detour. Ended up camping on the field at Sky Harbor in Duluth Friday night and had an awesome time! Tired boy fell asleep shortly after takeoff on the return flight.

 

idubrov RV-7 #75069 ...status report

Okay, so the empennage parts are somewhat complete (except for the fiberglass and fitting parts together).

Still debating if I want all fairings to be removable or just the rudder bottom one (and maybe the elevator ones, so I can keep additional counterbalance weights inside them).

 

Germany via France ...Swiss14A from last weekend

Flew to Speyer, Germany for the summerparty of friends. Conveniently in a hangar directly at the airport. First stop overnight in Strasbourg, France.  -->

 

Pics of N332RT ...sent to me by Jim Clark

Tuskegee Airmen - 332 Fighter Group - Red Tails.  Done in honor of the Tuskegee Airmen.  BTW, it is signed by the "Original Top Gun"!!!!  The first gunnery type battle (that later got the "Top Gun" tag) was won by The Tuskegee Airmen!! Flying raggedy P47's. The trophy was "lost" until just a few years ago. I was able to arrange to get Colonel Harvey (about 100 years young) to stop by and sign it. I know my buddies got pictures and I think they got VIDEO.  several pics

 

Photos from the RV Social ...DanH

Took these early, before things got busy shaking barrels and changing taps.  Jesse won the t-shirt contest.  No matter how hard I try, I just can't grin like Andrew   We started at 4PM this year, earlier than in past years, due to a concurrent Vans event. It seemed to be popular, although let's remember that our vendor friends typically can't close displays until 5. Shall we keep an earlier start time?  Thank your sponsors! It can't happen without them.

Barrett Precision Engines (Rhonda!)
CQ Headsets (Scott)
Delta Pop Aviation (Don)
Flightlines (Tom)
Flyboy/Team Rocket (Blake and Vince)
JD Air (Darwin)
Kitplanes Magazine (Marc)
Lycoming/Thunderbolt (Chris)
SteinAir (Stein and the Gang)
xCruise/TruTrak (Andrew)

[ed. I didn't get to attend due tobeing on Boeing Plaza waiting for the airshow to end so I could reposition my plane back over in its original area - Van's had one of each model on the square Monday.  I really wanted to go to this shindig - airshow didn't end until 6:30 and we went straight to the Theatre in the Woods for the Van's 50 event afterwards.  v/r,dr]

 

Rudder Bottom Mod R-911?  ...Peter

Hey can someone look at these pics? I'm working on a previously owned 7 kit which looks like a mod was done to rudder bottom R-911, adding a wrap around piece of thin... probably .034 Al.

The blind rivets contact the aircraft fuselage aft skin at full rudder deflection, which limits full travel to about 32 degrees. I need to fix the limit restriction and I'm considering removing this piece unless someone knows of a good reason to keep it and make it work.

 

 

Aug 3, 2022  Issue #5,620.
 
Our downstairs a/c tripped a breaker Tuesday (100F+ for the past several weeks).  It's 35 years old and we were hoping it might last until Tate gets out of college next year....but if any of you folks run a/c install companies I might need to talk sooner rather than later if possible.  The freon is topped off and all the filters and units are clean.  Just old.
  It came back on, but Moondog is looking pissed. ;^)
  Contract pilot resume   
 

 

From this Weekend's 'What Did You Do' Thread ...AlexPeterson -6A

Went for a post-Oshkosh flight on a gorgeous Minnesota evening.

The first picture are some wheat fields surrounding the departure end of 17 at Henning (05Y) airport. The "blemishes" in the wheat field are knock-down areas from heavy rain.

Second pic is looking towards the west at Deer Lake.

Third pic is the post-flight plane longing to be back in the air soon...

 

Status Report ...agent4573 -7

My 7 was put on a 20' deck-over for a 50 mile trip to the airport. If youre willing to take the prop off or don't mind it overhanging a bit, it'll fit on an 18'. Anything with wheel-wells will be too narrow to let the gear through. If you don't have a winch to help get it on, I recommend the 750 lb drill operated Warn. It was just enough to pull the plane up slowly and safely onto the trailer.

You'll have to pull the prop and cowl if you put it on a tow truck. Our air intake was way to close for comfort, but this was only for a 5 mile ride.


 

Removing Paint

Does anybody know if Jasco Premium Paint and Epoxy Remover is ok (or not) to use on our aluminum parts? I've had a couple of instances in my build where my 2nd paint coat wrinkled and I ended up completely removing the paint using Jasco Paint Stripper and starting over... now I'm wondering if years later I might have corrosion or other issues on those parts?

 

RV-14 Data Point Returning from OSH ...riseric

Awesome flying machine !!  790 NM in 4,3 hours airtime.  I had good tail winds, averaging 183 Kts ground speed.  What an awesome flying machine !!!

 

Lycoming leaky cylinder oil return lines ...whodja

TSFlightlines makes a kit of perfect fit oil return lines. After tightening the hose clamps regularly I finally eliminated the constant oil leaking from the hose transition. Very well made.

 

 

Aug 2, 2022  Issue #5,619.
  Contract pilot resume   
 

Tony Kirk's Weekend Was Pretty Nice

...from the 'My RV Weekend' Thread ;^)

 

18min Video w/Van's Rian Johnson on the RV-15

...with Ed Hicks of Flyer.  Added to the RV-15.com page.

 

J-Stiffeners: doubler ok? ...dustin_96 RV-14

Ok bonehead move: I mis-drilled the lower stiffener for the right wing. The left one was done correctly but I didn't tape off the correct holes on the right wing.

Is it acceptable to use some extra stiffener material to create a doubler?

 

Mothership News

 

Cracked A step ...skiandtom

Several of us A type owners ( I have an RV-7A) have had to replace or repair a cracked step. I have had the experience and I think I have figured out the easiest way to remove and replace the step. You don't have to drill off any panels. Get out your plans and determine where the inner block is under the baggage floor and cut an oval shaped hole over it and remove the bolt. Next drill out the rivets holding the step out and pull the step straight out. You can remove the screwed on panel over the flap pushrod so you can vacuum out the River pieces. Repair or replace the step. It is easier to repair and reuse your old step of it can be repaired. Match drilling a new one would be challenging. If the crack does not extend around to the front side of the step, it should be possible to repair it. Van's sells the repair gusset. I sent mine to the guy who builds the steps for Van. I wish I could remember his name. Quick turnaround. Anyway, pop rivet the new or repaired step in and make an oval shaped hole cover and pop it in over the hole in the floor.

 

Broken tailwheel linkage ...tass

After landing today, and wondering why on earth I had gotten so bad at taxiing at the center-line, I noticed my tailwheel linkage had broken.

I have questions for you amazing people:

1. Is this repairable, or does it need to be replaced?

2. It looks like the one sold by JD Air, but they won't be shipping anything until the end of this week (away for Oshkosh). I would ideally have this fixed before flying home from SoCal to Seattle in the next few days. Does anyone else sell this part, or is there something else that will easily fit?

 

 

Aug 1, 2022  Issue #5,618.
  Contract pilot resume   
 

Monday 0930...OSH'22.
About to turn it loose on the world.

The following Sunday...
...said world has expressed interest.

Photo courtesy Van's Aircraft, Inc.

 

RV-15 Specific Info Page Created

Has all the info that has been released in one handy spot.  If you want to tell your friends how to get there, just tell them RV-15.com.  It'll fwd to that page.

It will live up here on the front page pretty much for the foreseeable future. 

 

The August RV Calendar Wallpaper

...it really couldn't be any other image.  The dead grass image was a very close 2nd, but this image was HUGE and well suited for the wallpaper.

 

I Got Home Safe ...please chime in

 

My journey begins...finally!

The ancient Chinese proverb, "A journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step" best describes the feeling I have today.

I looked back this morning to see that I joined this forum in September of 2015. I have simply been a silent observer on and off over the years witnessing the successes and defeats, and joys and struggles of many of you. Thank you for allowing me to sit on the sideline and watch. I suspect most of you will relate to the range of emotions a would-be aircraft builder experiences leading up to finally taking the plunge. Currently for me, I'm in the elated, overwhelmed, and ready to get started stage. It's reminds me of Christmas when I was 13 and received my first radio controlled airplane kit - a Sig Manufacturing Kadet Jr. I couldn't wait to get started then and nothing is different now.

This past week, I was fortunate to make the acquaintance of two individuals who have chosen to (reluctantly) let go of their respective desire to build their own airplanes and, as a result, I have become the proud new owner of a partially built RV-14A empennage and will become will become the recipient of an uncrated wing kit later this week.

Tomorrow, I turn 55 years old. With the blessing of my beautiful wife and a goal of balancing my faith, my family, and my career, I have set a (perhaps metaphorical) 1000-day goal of building and flying my own flying machine.

I know I will learn much from this amazing group of inspiring people and I hope in some small way I can contribute and perhaps inspire others as I progress along my path.

Let the journey begin!
__________________
Todd Bynum
Greenville, SC
RV-14A (Under Construction)

 

OSH Awards ...the chart

 

Theater in the Woods Video - Van's at 50 ...Iron post

In case you want to see/re-see the Van's 50th celebration that was held at Theater in the Woods on Monday night, it is now available on the EAA web site HERE.

The first forty-five minutes is young eagles, then they have about fifteen minutes of RV pictures as an "intro roll" while we were all putting on microphones, and the Van's show starts about an hour in.

I think the best part had to Van's last story about "Rainmakers" - once he told that one, I knew we weren't going to top it, and I wrapped up the program!

 

 

July 22 thru July 31, 2022  Issue #5,617.
 
During the week of OSH I'll be updating the front page very little - the links below are for the VAFrs at the show to report their own PIREPs and photo gallery URLs if they feel so compelled (I'll be one of those folks).  These will probably be the busier threads.  They will remain on the front page here through the duration of OSH'22.
  I'll see you in the PIREPs thread (most of my pics will be in my event SmugMug folder).  Enjoy the show!
  Contract pilot resume   
 

 OSH'22 VAF Links (NOTAM / Webcams)

"I got home" thread...yearly tradition.

PIREPs from OSH'22

Today's Posts 

New Posts

Picture Gallery URLs Online
....taken by VAF folks.  Everybody going has a camera in their pocket, so for those VAFrs who get pictures online in various galleries please put your URL in this thread. 

Related: Doug's pics ...updated on the fly with the iPhone throughout the days leading up to the show and each day (hopefully)

RV-15 Sub-Forum
...where the cool kids are

VAF Advertiser News @ OSH'22
...if you hear of any or if any advertisers want to chime in

VAF'er Forums (and appearances)
Spread out throughout the week.  Folks who visit this site and are giving a presentation at the show.

"I got here" thread

 

Introducing the RV-15! ....thread

[ed. I'm going to leave this section below on the front page through the end of OSH'22.  As I get more info I'll summarize it here.  v/r,]

RV Backcountry begins...


View the employee rollout photo album

(from Mothership replies gathered here and there)

Trapeze ropes in cockpit:
"The rope pull handles are test aircraft feature only, to enable emergency door jettison if needed."

Fuel Tank:
"The fuel tank in the cabin is only for the test airplane. Certain prototype aircraft design considerations are there to enable us to make engineering changes and adjustments (keep in mind, this is an engineering test prototype airplane), easily change configurations in weight/balance, loading, etc."

Ordering:
"No, not yet. This is the engineering prototype, from which we develop the kit airplane. We will take orders once we know when kits can be delivered. That takes some time."

Misc:
"Early flight - not the first flight.
Very close on your the take-off roll estimation. Yes - Flaps were up.
Prop correction: Hartzell prop. Big one. Constant Speed.
Fairings come later. This is a test prototype.
Push rod controls. Standard Van's style design.
Trapeze handles are in fact for emergency door jettison. Good catch!
The pilot definitely works for Van's. Great guy, and accomplished test pilot.
Correct on the in-airframe latching mechanism.
Again, keep in mind that everything is an engineering prototype design at this point.
The fuel tank in the right seat area is for the test article airplane. Flexibility in test loading, engineering changes, etc."

Baggage Door:
The kit will have one.

 

Vans Aircraft Business Video Update - Apr 29

 

 

7/21/2022  Issue #5,616.
  Contract pilot resume   
 

Advanced Flight Systems - Dynon Avionics will introduce the new AF-6600 EFIS at Oshkosh AirVenture.

The new AF-6600 flagship features several upgrades while maintaining compatibility with the popular AF-5000 line.

- New Custom Flush-Mounted 10.4" touch-screen LCD. This new LCD has more vivid colors and is brighter than the AF-5600 LCD.
- Extremely Fast Display Updates with incredibly smooth map drawing. New Multi-Core Intel CPU that enables EFIS and Moving Map display updates at 60 hz.
- Faster Boot Time - approximately 20 seconds
- Dual Concentric Encoder-for a more intuitive user interface.
- Light Sensor for automatic backlight adjustment.
- New Compact Rear Cover- reduces panel depth requirements.
- Reduced Weight - approximately one pound lighter than an AF-5600 EFIS.
- Same Mounting and Wiring as the AF-5600 EFIS
- Compatible with all Dynon HDX SV-Network components

 

Bob and Carol Arrive at the Show (posted in the 'I'm Here' Thread)

"Scholler, NE corner of Schaick & Stits.  gave up on our usual spot, opted for shade (smart move)"

 

One of the nicer 'On Our Way' clips you'll see

 

Airworthiness certificate and transition training

Arnold Holmes issued my airworthiness certificate a few weeks ago and now after some health delays I need to "satisfactory complete a checkout from a CFI in this make and model (RV 7 tailwheel)" to start test flying with insurance.
I do have over 1100 hours of tailwheel time mostly in a Waiex (Sonex with a V-tail and a 6 cylinder Jabiru) but the insurance company wants make and model ! Live in S/W Florida (Ft. Myers) any suggestions ?
Any suggestions?
TIA, Kirk S.

 

Daily RV Pic ...rv8ch

Waiting for customs after an international flight.

 

iPhone Mount

I'm a ForeFlight user and like the features...so in my new to me RV-8 I have been looking for a way to mount an iPhone for local type flight - for cross country I take a full size iPad that I use in my T210N and reference that when I need to.

The Scosche mount has been excellent so far...no issues during light acro and minor bumps. Have not hit any bigger turbulence yet through. The way I have the phone on the mount it will handle positive G well - negative G it might come off...but has not yet. It does block the view, but not the access to, the switches but it is a quick grab and stuff under your leg moment away from being removed...

Question to the collective - am I putting any stress on the skin with the suction mount and pulling G? What else am I missing??

 

Fuel Tank T-905 Attach Bracket (9A)

The fuel tank attach bracket is made of 6061 angle. I have finished my tanks without leaks and moved on. As I was starting another section in the plans, I just happened to glance at a section of the fuel tank instructions, and now I'm wondering if I have to jump back to redoing something on the tanks. I did not prime the T-905 attach angle before I riveted it onto the inboard rib because I figured I'd hit it with primer when I paint the entire tank down the road. When I was building the tanks I was in the "don't prime anything" mindset, and I just didn't think about the fact that the mating surface between the attach bracket and the rib should get primer.

So the question is, do I just prime the rest of the bracket down the road when I shoot paint, or, is this critical and I need to rip things apart to drill out the attach bracket to prime that mating surface? I can't remember if I put proseal on that surface or not (I think I did on one, but not the second tank, because I realized that as long as I sealed the inside of the tank, the bracket didn't need it). I'm really dreading the thought of pulling off the access panel and drilling out the bracket just to cover a few square inches with primer, but now is the time if it truly needs to be done!

 

Air Flow and #6 CHT temp Tip

For months I've tinkered with several things to try to get my #6 cylinder CHT under 400 in climb. All other cylinders were great, but #6 in this heat wave would get to 415 in climbout (at 130 KIAS).

I had already removed both front air dams during phase one for cooling. Last week, I decided to test adding the air dam back to #2 cylinder. For a "TEST" I just used aluminum tape. It made ALL the difference I needed. In climb at 120 KIAS (steeper than normal for me) #6 CHT stayed below 400.

Today, put back in a permanent air dam on #2 cylinder. Same result on test flight. #6 CHT under 400 on climbout AND #2 to #6 CHT spread was within 2 degrees during cruise phase. PERFECT!!

If you're still building your 10, I'd re recommend making your air dams "removable" instead of riveting them in. I think it'll make it much easier for you to tinker with it as needed.

 

Back Riveting Problems on Rudder Stiffeners

Hi all.

I'm having a problem with rivets falling over while attempting to back rivet the stiffeners onto the rudder skin. After completing all the rivet work on the Horizontal and Vertical stab, I did not anticipate this giving me grief. I have double checked the rivet length and even confirmed that the 3-3.5s that the plans call for are correct with Vans. I noticed that my back rivet set couldn't be centered due to the inside radius of the stiffeners. I tried again on a test piece after shaving off some of the slip guard on the back rivet set, but I'm having the same problem. I do notice that its a bit difficult to keep the gun from slipping while applying solid pressure, but even on ones that I detected no slippage, they're still falling over. I'm so surprised that I've not yet encountered any other stories of similar troubles. My HS and VS went very well and I'm extremely happy with the quality of the work. I'm at a loss for what to do next. Am I doing something really stupid? Any advice? Has anyone else had difficulty with back riveting stiffeners?

I've attached an image so you can see what I mean.

 

 

7/20/2022  Issue #5,615.
It's always a surreal week, the one coming up. I'm reachable but not reachable - mostly you'll find me in triage mode trying to build a snapshot of the day's occurrences using the cell strength and bandwidth I can find. If I can get 20 pictures and maybe a couple of coherent sentences online a day I'll call it a win. I'm trying a new rig this year, stripped down with the main focus of just documenting what jumps out when the muse reveals itself, and throwing those pictures in my OSH'22 SmugMug gallery. In parallel with that I'm gonna spotlight some threads dedicated to the show on the front page here throughout the entire week and *hopefully* other folks will chime in with their PIREPs and picture links. We'll see how it works. You know what they say about plans.

If you're under the impression I know what I'm doing I can assure you I do not (but I'm going to try to get a good sampling for those who can't attend).

In a perfect world I'll get 50+ or so images of the RV-15 online pretty quickly from all angles (if possible) and if not I'll just get what I can get. Getting within 5 feet of that prototype might be a challenge considering the interest. Going to just roll with it. I do hope the last one to leave the show gets a picture of the RV-15-shaped patch of grass. That would make a nice August wallpaper calendar, even if it did go online a couple of days late.

That grass doesn't stand a chance.

The prep continues, and have a nice Wednesday.

Yours w/a long to-do list,
Duggles
  Contract pilot resume   

 

RV4 Rudder Pedal Drawing

Hi team,

I have had to detach my brake master cylinders to achieve a proper brake bleed. In looking at the rudder pedal hardware I am suspicious about the hardware that was used by the builder. I have ordered the thumb drive package from Van's but that will take some to arrive. Since I have the right rudder pedal apart it is an opportunity to reinstall it with the correct hardware. Is it possible please for anyone here to post the Van's drawing for the rudder pedals?

Many thanks.

A:

 

Fiberglassing - Final Stretch ...PilotjohnS

This week I got the front and rear skirts smoothed out enough with microballons / epoxy mixture to shot the first coat of primer.

I am using the Sherwin Williams sandable primer that builds up about 0.001" per layer. This stuff is really sweat. It goes on easy, sands well and produces a really smooth finish with 320 grit dry.

After first sanding, I found lots of defects in my fiberglass microballons / epoxy coat. For the final finish coat, I am going to shot over the primer with an Sherwin Williams aircraft paint, not so much to provide a finish painted surface, but rather to protect the primer and my final surface finish for the eventual aircraft painter. This paint and primer is compatible with the glazing compound one finds in the auto parts stores; making filling the pinholes and imperfections much easier and quicker.

For the windscreen, I squeegeed on a pure epoxy coat to fill the imperfections, but this didn't turn out so well. I ended up sanding most of the epoxy away to get it smooth again. The rear skirt I just smoothed with micro and epoxy, but I tried adding cab-o-sil to thicken it, and this was also a mistake. If I ever do this again, I will probably just do two coats of micro and epoxy; the first coat being thick to fill the big gaps, the second being thinner to fill the pinholes and remaining imperfections.
Attached Thumbnails

 

New First Flights Reported on Mothership










 

VLADREP (Vlad PIREP)

Had a visitor from faraway  Did nothing and went swimming after that.

 

 

7/19/2022  Issue #5,614.
 
Slowly building the pile of gear for the trip.  Bag is for if there isn't a mattress where I'm staying.  Got some alternates lined up - nice to have options.  Of note the links down below that will stay on the front page through the end of the show.  These are where you check in and post notes and pic links from OSH.  By doing this up front early I'm hoping to make searching for the RV stuff less time consuming.  Expect tweaks...
  Contract pilot resume   
 


Added to my OSH'22 photo pile

 

Converted a paper airplane into a real one ...DerekS

from the 'What did you do this weekend' thread.

Started my weekend early on Friday. All the paperwork has been in place for a few weeks on my RV-10 for a few weeks.

I got back from transition training with Zach on Thursday. I was as current as I would be.

Went out to the airport. All the things that were open for the airworthiness inspection had been closed and double checked.

Opening anything else would take me backwards.

Wind was down the runway, and the sky was blue but for a few fluffy clouds.

It was time. Obligatory phone call home, and one more RV-10 has taken to the air. She flew straight and true, climbed and ran, as if she had been waiting too long for this day.

The cherry on top was the hanger neighbors who upon seeing me ran out to capture video of what they suspected was my 1st flight.

Derek

 

RV-8 and the Photo Mission ...ArlingtonRV vid

7/15/22 was a pretty nice day in these parts. The sun was out, it wasn't too hot or too windy, the clouds cooperated by remaining mostly out of our way.

Aside from getting lunch, one reason for the trip was to try to get some air to air photography, or in this case video, because I was looking for a clip I could use as an end screen for my videos. For a first attempt, I think it turned out fairly well.

We took off from Chehalis together and so he wouldn't get too far ahead and have to wait for me to catch up, Carl used a lower power setting so I could keep up (his airplane is about 8-10 MPH faster than mine).

After I made the fly past that I wanted filmed, he formed up on me. I had the camera out to get some video of him, but just as he came into frame, I had to turn to avoid a cloud bank that was right at our altitude. Since there were a lot more clouds to the west, we just went home and called it a day.

 

 

7/18/2022  Issue #5,613.
 
A friend of 50 years gave me a photo of us back in the early 70's over the weekend.  I used it to update the 'About' page just because it made me smile.  Hope you had a nice weekend.
  Contract pilot resume   
 

Looking good fellas! (RV Formation)

I took a break from building my own -14 to help a buddy put the wings on his -14 at Speedway Airport (KHMP). We heard an awesome noise, and saw this.

 

Taping the Canopy

I'm closing in on installing my canopy. Fastback 8. The Showplanes instructions say to carefully tape off areas which should not contact adhesive, or should not be sanded prior to adhearing. I've been using painter's tape so far to minimize the residue, but I'm wondering if there is something more substantial I could use? Electrician's tape? Something else?

 

My RV Weekend ...this weekend's roundup.

 

Close Call in Marlette: DEER! ...goatflieg

I've had some experience with deer in cars; hit one long ago; missed many since then. I've read and heard stories about deer on airports; seen a few myself and tried to keep vigilant. But these caught me by surprise. Caught on video and worth sharing. Stay safe out there.

 

RV10 Plenum...Richard Connell -10

Some people PMd and asked me to show some more pictures of my plenum.

 

Need help identifying brakes

Hi all,
I'm trying to find replacement rotors. My brake setup is not matco - i believe it's cleveland but would like to verify.
From doing a bit of searching, the calipers are supposed to have a sticker on them, but no sticker is present. The only number I see on the left caliper is cast into the caliper, and looks like 405 to me.

Are liners / pads interchangeable between matco and cleveland? vans only lists one type for 5x5 wheels.

 

Status Report : Duhg

Feel like a milestone was reached today when a friend offered to crawl inside the aft fuselage to help me rivet the upper aft skin on. It's been a few months of navigating avionics.

 

Propeller/Spinner Filler Plates

Are the filler plates that go behind the propeller required for air worthiness?

Is this something that can come later on after flight, like the wheel pants and leg fairings?

 

Update 1 ...Manchu16

I was away wearing the green suit for two weeks. I appreciate all of the input. I still don't have the root cause, but I was able to get a few tests in today.

I am still experiencing the occasional miss. I was able to borrow a logging device for my engine monitor. Unfortunately, I didn't realize it didn't capture the first flight until we packed up.

1. The miss is still present if the electric fuel pump is on or off. While that doesn't rule out fuel delivery, it mitigates my concern the lower pressure of the engine driven pump causing the problem.

2. The miss is still present regardless of the mixture (ROP vs Full Rich). Still doesn't rule out fuel delivery, but helps rule out I am running too lean or too rich.

3. I did a short inflight test of each mag, but I want to perform the test again because I was not able to capture it in the log. The engine ran rougher on each single mag as opposed to both, but I noticed the miss in all 3 configurations. Ceilings were low and I wasn't comfortable performing the test under 2k AGL.

I have added two screen captures of the last flight. One is during the run up and the other during cruise and initial arrival. I placed comments on the screen captures. You can see the dips (which I believe represent the miss I am feeling) in all phases of the flight. Please let me know if there is a better way to share these.

I am wondering if this could be an ignition switch going bad (I have the ACS key type Off/L/R/Both/Start type). I am going to remove and tape off the leads to the mags before my next flight to see if I can confirm/disprove the issue.

As always any thoughts are greatly appreciated.

 

 

7/15/2022  Issue #5,612.
  Wishing you and yours a happy, safe and RV-filled weekend.
  Contract pilot resume   
 

Tango Flight Needs Mentors

(Dan Weyant)
Tango Flight (www.tangoflight.org) has been growing by leaps and bounds!

Our STEM based high school curriculum that includes building an RV-12iS has been immensely popular at schools around the country. For the 2022-2023 school year the Tango Flight program will be in 22 high schools from New Hampshire to Alaska!

We need your help! The best part of what Tango Flight does is getting builders and airplane enthusiasts like you working with young folks to help educate the next generation.

Please take a look at the list below and consider coming out to the mentor training over the next couple of months.

7/18 - 7/19 - Pryor Oklahoma - Mid-America Expo Center 5162 Webb Street Pryor, OK 74361

7/20-/721 - Tahlequah Oklahoma - Tahlequah Airport 2100 Airport Parkway Hangar 1 Tahlequah, OK 74464

7/22-7/23 - McAlester High School, McAlester Oklahoma

8/1 - 8/2 - Navasota High School, Navasota Texas
8/4 - 8/5 - Texarkana High School, Texarkana Texas
8/8 - 8/9 - Jarrell High School, Jarrell Texas

9/23 - 9/24 - Matanuska High School, Wasilla Alaska (Tentative date)

Training sessions are run over two days. 8:00 - Noon and 1:00-5:00. Ideally, we would love to have you at all four sessions but come to as many or as few as you can!

Please feel free to call/text/email me if you have any questions. We would love to have you come out to see what the program is all about!!!

 

Officially an Airplane ...Foghorn

Tom's Dream now has an airworthiness certificate. I wish Tom had lived to see this day in person but I know he's looking down and smiling. First flight should be in early August. I'm skipping OSH this year to go do some training with Bruce Bohannon at 81D.

Thank you Darrel Watson for the inspection and RV insight.

 

912UL Possible Vapor Lock

Couple of weeks ago a friend and I took my 912UL powered RV12 out for breakfast at an airport about 100 miles from my hangar. We arrived and the ramp temp was in the high 90s. Went to the FBO restaurant only to find out they were closed for the week. Less than 15 minutes after shutdown we restarted the RV12 and while taxing to the run up area I noticed it appear "sluggish" for lack of better term. As I started to runup for the mag check I noticed the cylinder heads climbing into the yellow, a short taxi back to the ramp and shut down followed. There were no visible leaks, oil level was fine, and so was the coolant level. Also no noticeable fuel in the carb float pans, floats have been checked about 50 hours prior. After an hour of trying to arrange ground transportation home one of the mechanics on the field recommended a restart. We started it back up, all appeared normal and flew it back home with no problem. The local opinion is it was vapor lock. Anyone experienced this situation with the 912UL?

 

Block Diagram ...BOHICA 14A

My block diagram for a Dual G3x system with connector numbers and buses. Still need to look over if I really need/want all the backup data paths in the G3x install manual. Took a lot of reading of G3x, GTX 650/750xi, G5, GMA 245, GSB 15, PPS, VPX, GTX 45R, GDL 51R manuals to work it all out. Block diagram is good for data bus stuff. Power distribution is a bit tricky but not shown here.

 

Welcome Marc Zubricki ...-10 (Newmarket, NH)

Southeast NH RV10 builder.  Just got RV10 Emp kit. Inventory complete planning to begin build in early fall. Looking for other builders in sea coast area to compare notes with.

 

Help with rudder rear rivets please ...-7

Hi. The rv 7 rudder rear stiffener rivets touch each other on the sides (not on top of each other) and only just...but enough to see they impinge on each other before touching the AEX wedge. Most of my rivets are .038 to .045 thickness and a few down to .036...one or two .033 but I was not going to remove them as more damage than good would result. If those rear most rivets were .050 and .122 wide they probably would not touch. Vans say "it's totally acceptable to over set the rear rivets to avoid contact". I think they would have to be squeezed to .025 or less to avoid it...thoughts?

Yes one rivet has a small bevel on it which I did to avoid contact as I thought I'd have to drill it out anyway...leave it?

I could use my squeezer on the rear rivets to ease them all down a tiny bit.

 

Stuck Parking Brake ...-7

I normally set the parking brake prior to engine start. This is a purpose built hydraulic valve that sets a check valve in place on both brake lines, then releases the check valves to release the brakes.

On my last start I noticed the right brake remained locked after I put the valve back in the release position. I wasn't going anywhere but in circles, so I shut down and cycled the valve a few times. I could hear the left side set and release, but the right side remained quietly locked. Then unfortunately the left side also began to remain quiet and then both brakes were locked.

I mounted my valve where I can actuate the valve lever itself, meaning it is not remoted with a cable.

So I was stuck blocking traffic until I could get the wheel pants off and loosen the hyd fittings at the brakes to release the pressure. The good news if any is that this was an engine warm up prior to my annual condition inspection so no disappointed passengers.

Anyone ever encountered this? Seems impossible but it was a very real nuisance.

 

Before and after polish & vinyl

After 40ish hours of flight, it was time to finish the "cosmetics".
Shamefully stole the general design from a few other RV8's.

It's not perfect, hey, it's an amateur build and that's what I am...
One of the most difficult aspect of polishing must be to reason yourself and stop at a certain point.
It's an airplane, not a Cartier jewel.

It certainly passes the 6 feet test though !!!
I'll have all winter with less flying to improve the finish

 

 

7/14/2022  Issue #5,611.
  Contract pilot resume   
 


The charity cap in some Airbus...
wishing it was in an RV.
Nice patina.
 

How important is oil cooler vertical placement? ...Steve M. -9

I've always had oil temps that have been about 10F higher than I'd like, especially on 90+F days where I can see high 210s in cruise. I've long anticipated swapping out my original Niagara 20002A with a HE-series from Pacific Oil Coolers that has a good reputation for significantly reducing oil temps but that also retains the same size footprint as the Niagara.

That said, I'm also wondering how much the vertical placement of the oil cooler matters. For instance, as you'll see in the pictures attached where I've installed 3 screws for a wintertime oil cooler cover plate, I could probably have gotten away with raising the oil cooler about 1", but think I didn't originally just because Vans FWF instructions were pretty cryptic and I didn't know what I didn't know. It does seem to make sense that having 1 less inch of cooler tucked behind the #4 cylinder where it does not get direct ram air would help.

Do you think raising the cooler 1" would have improved my oil cooler's performance significantly? Worth it? Are we talking no effect, 1-2 degree F impact, or maybe something more meanginful?

(As an aside, unfortunately, I can't simply raise my existing cooler to find out because I had to cut part of the cooler mounting flange to clear the engine mount but if I do swap it out with a new cooler want to know what I might expect if I go through the effort of locating the new one up a bit.)

 

David Paule -3B Status Report

Added the glass to the front of this bulkhead. And then separated the hatch from the fairing and trimmed the bulkhead. Put it together again and back on the fuselage for a fit check. So far it's fine. The front of the fairing is about where the cowl cheek bulkhead goes. I'll need to tweak the aluminum bulkhead, which was just a bit oversize on the right hand side, and remove the hatch's fiberglass one.

Before then, though, I laid up the beginnings of the flanges for the aft portion of this cheek extension. At this point, I'm only using two layers of bid and a cover of peel ply, because I wasn't sure how well this would work out. So far it seems okay. I expect to add more when this has cured.

 

Countersink or Dimple .032

I'm sure this has been asked in the past, but I can't find a definitive answer anywhere. The RV-8 left elevator instructions say to countersink many holes on the various spars made from .032. Section 5.5 COUNTERSINKING AND DIMPLING states that for AD3 rivets, .032 thickness or less must be dimpled and .032-.040 should be dimpled but can be countersinked if necessary.
I am leaning toward dimpling since it does not require the removal of material. It is also easier and less likely to ruin a part. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

 

Mark Landoll passing

It is with great sorrow that I post here the passing of Mark Landoll. Mark had a great passion for aviation. He contributed greatly to the aviation community during his lifetime. Many of you may be aware of Mark through the purchase of his "Landoll Ring". He was an inspirational builder, designer, aviator. Mark was a member of our EAA chapter for several decades. He contributed greatly to my personal aircraft construction and aviation knowledge. He will be forever remembered.

Mark Landoll Obituary:  HERE

 

kentlik Status Report ...7A rebirthing

One tip mounted but not complete

 

Dog Tie Down

I bought some steel rings at the hardware store, and combined with Adel clamps, makes a really good tie down point for my friends dog we transported from OKC to Corpus.

In addition, the CBD doggy snacks seemed to help too, normally this dog is a puker, but didn't have any trouble the entire trip (and it was bumpy).

Supertracks are a must if you are going to be hauling a dog in the back on a regular basis. For tip ups, I suppose you could train the dog to hop on the correct spot on the wing, and then into the seat, then into the back, but use a friends plane for the training

The other thing to watch out for (but gets better with training) is the dog wants to flail around while being picked up and loaded, so trim the nails if you don't want you or your canopy scratched up.

Edit: Sorry, realized this was in the RV-8 thread. For that, I would remove the rear stick, and probably go the crate route, at least initially. There is just no way to see what's going on back there, nor fix it if something get's hung up or the dog freaks out. I have seen some fearful animals do things you wouldn't think was possible. A harness instead of a collar is also a requirement, and cinched _very_ snug, at least until you are confident the dog won't try to kill you when it realizes it's up in the air inside a giant metal bird.

 

 

7/13/2022  Issue #5,610.
  I've distilled the RV-15 info that I currently have to what is summarized further down.  This info will remain on the front page through the end of OSH'22.  Over the next few days I'll generate a list of RV happenings at the show and will get that on the front page as well so you don't have to spend much time figuring them out.
  Contract pilot resume   
 

RV14 #141180 Central Minnesota ...L.A. Lee makes introductions

Hello All,

Just got my RV14 Empennage kit recently and I am very excited to get going on it. Anyone else recently get their kits full of duct tape? I've watched countless YouTube videos of kits being opened and never seen anything like it. Every piece was duct taped together with multiple pieces. This was frustrating because I was hoping to save the blue vinyl protective coating and strip out the pieces along the rivet lines( I know not necessary if painting). Anyway, there was no damage to the kit and it was well packed, besides all the tape.

 

Elevator Riveting ...-10

Hi All,

I tried to search this and didn't find anything. The instructions for riveting the lateral part of the aft spar says to build a special bucking bar. Or, order MS-316 rivets.

I was looking at this and wondered how many people actually made the bucking bar and riveted there vs. those who used the blind rivets. I'm not sure what to make the bucking bar from. Certainly looks like the blind rivets--while not as cool looking--are a more practical approach.

What's the group experience?

 

More from Last Weekend's 'What did you do...' Thread



 

Residual Thrust Effect on Glide Performance ...Vac

We've been conducting some emergency turnback experiments to support an EAA/FAA effort to develop planning tools and techniques for dealing with power loss during takeoff.

Foremost, the point of this post isn't to advocate for any particular course of action if the engine quits on takeoff--it's just to share data and lessons learned

My RV-4 is equipped with a light-weight, two-blade Catto propeller and is quite the glider in IDLE power. Some of that "glide" performance is the result of residual thrust provided by the engine in IDLE. If the engine is OFF (mixture in cut-off), glide performance suffers (by about 20% at the same AOA/speed). This is shown in the first chart for glides at L/Dmax and ONSPEED with the engine in IDLE and OFF:  --->

 

One of those days

It never ceases to amaze me how the easiest task can sometimes turn into a hair pulling nightmare of an experience. I had one of those yesterday. I simply needed to rivet in one of the small flap bracket attach angles. I had just done the other two flap brackets and was on the last, middle bracket. For whatever reason, riveting apparently just turned into a completely foreign concept all of the sudden. I'm guessing I had the holes between the rear spar and angle ever so slightly off kilter to where the rivet couldn't sit perfectly perpendicular to the material, because on my first attempt, two of the three rivets clinched over. I rolled my eyes, and like I've done many other times, I simply drilled the rivets out and reinstalled them. Same outcome! At this point, I didn't really want to drill them out again and risk screwing up the rear spar, so I asked Van's if it was okay to add two additional rivets in the angle instead. They said not a problem. So I drilled two additional holes, only to realize my spacing was goofy and out of line (was hard to see - that's another story). I got the additional rivets in, but the whole angle looks like a 5 year old put it in! It's structural, but wow is it ugly. My saving grace for my type A nature is that the flap gap fairing will cover up most of the rivets and I'll never have to see them again.

Even though academically I know that everything is totally fine, I'm still incredibly irritated at how bad it came out. Such an easy task.... Funny how my perfectionist tendencies are getting seriously exercised during this build.

No help needed. Just therapeutic to blow steam at the computer to people who probably understand! <g>

 

 

7/12/2022  Issue #5,609.
  Contract pilot resume   
 

Factory Unveiling of RV-15 Prototype to Employees

Big Tires and Fowler Flaps!

Monday afternoon the employees of Van's Aircraft, Inc finally got to get their hands and eyes up close and personal with the RV-15 engineering prototype.  These are the fine folks bringing you a game-changing product that will expand the GA market in ways we can't even imagine.  I wouldn't be surprised if half of the existing RV owners don't want one of these to expand their 'Total Performance' flight envelope.  What an exciting time!  If you're wondering if there is interest, the 'Introducing the RV-15!' thread was viewed over 20,000 times in the last day.


View the photo album


View the photo album


View the photo album

 

Video

 

First Head Kadang on the RV-15 Flap Tracks Has Been Set Straight by Axel

The Question:
Who is going to be first to get the Fowler Flap track forehead indentation?

Mothership Folks Chime In:
(Greg) That may have been me. Not certain.

(Mitch) I am afraid that was me a couple of weeks back.

(Axel) Ok this is important stuff here folks. Let me just set the story straight on this. Greg was absolutely the first person to introduce himself with the flap tracks. Mitch was a few minutes later. I guess they both win. does anyone want to talk about primer? I can clear that one up too.

 

My RV Weekend ...more submits





 

Houston area monthly lunch (July 2022)

Yup, it's that time again. For a change of pace, let's try out the new-ish restaurant at Brenham this time around.

When: Saturday, 7-16, 11:30 AM
Where: Dreamliner Diner at Brenham airport (11R)

 

Elevator counterbalance skin to rib gap ...-14

Hi team!

Our elevators came out really nice, with the possible exception of this one issue. There is a noticeable gap between the counter balance skins and the flanges of the counterbalance ribs. Riveting did not help pull this in at all.

I don't see what I might have done different here. The skins went on these ribs very nicely and felt well aligned. The skins are VERY rigid in this configuration and have no willingness to get closer to the rib flange. I think the ribs are just "too short" by a small amount.

My inclination is to seal this gap with proseal to prevent moisture from intruding, and carry on.

Thoughts?

 

Dimpling Question

I'm dimpling my HS skins using a Cleaveland C-Frame and dies. I'm getting a lot of distortion between the holes, particularly on the line of holes in the middle of the skins. At first, I thought maybe the holes were under dimpled, so I gave them one more hit, but it didn't help. I'm sure the dimples aren't under done, so I'm wondering if the distortions are normal or maybe I'm over dimpling.

Thoughts?

I'm really enjoying building, but there is a steep learning curve...

 

#8 Screw Holes in Wing Flange for Fuel Tank

Section 13, page 13-03 has a note preceding Step 4 that says "Use a temporary screw in the nutplates to ensure proper alignment." Looking forward in the plans where the fuel tanks are attached, it calls out an AN509-8R8 screw. However, that screw will not fit in the hole as it's just a little bit undersized. Without opening up that hole I can't use a screw to hold the nutplate.

Elsewhere in the plans I see that the proper size drill for a #8 screw is a #19 drill. I'm scanning the plans to see if a #19 hole is drilled later on but it's a bit of a slog even using PDF find. There doesn't appear to be a step in Section 13 that calls out final drilling the #8 screw holes (or for that matter the #6 screw holes for the access panels).

Am I correct is assuming that this final drill of the #8 screws is done later in the plans? If so, am I going to mess something up if I do the final drill earlier than the plans state?

One alternative I can think of for alignment of the screw hole is to use a awl. I'm a bit concerned that if you final drill the screw hole with the nutplate already installed you run the risk of damaging the nutplate.

So to summarize here are my questions:

1. Should I final drill the #8 screw holes to #19 at Section 13?
2. Is there a reason the screw hole final drill is done later?

 

Re-assembly of Flash Post-Annual

...continues at Richmond Aircraft Service.  I ran the fairings and cowl over there (one row over) in the 'ol Ranger before lunch Monday.

 

How do you ensure you meet a climb gradient in your RV?

Okay everyone, I have searched for a long time now and not finding much of what people do with their RVs in this category.

I'm getting ready for my instrument check ride soon and while I know my RV pretty well at this point and its climb rate at various density altitudes, I doubt the examiner is going to accept my word and why would he if the topic comes up?

I have slowly developed a climb performance spreadsheet over time (and during phase 1) but it has a lot of incomplete areas because wildly different than standard days or low pressure altitudes don't present themselves where I live.

I suppose a possible good method would be to use a Koch chart but with the RV I find it to be extremely conservative. Like absurdly conservative.

Anyone have some advice/experience here? Thanks!

 

 

7/11/2022  Issue #5,608.
  Well, obviously the first two feet of today's edition is reserved for the RV-15 announcement.  The 'rest of the news' starts several screens down <g>.  What exciting RV times!  Hope you had a great weekend.
   Contract pilot resume  
 

RV Backcountry begins...

(Greg Hughes - COO of Van's Aircraft)
"...here's what our team has been working on lately.

Introducing the RV-15 Engineering Test Prototype aircraft.

This airplane was built to evaluate and test the design, and what we've been learning from this engineering "tool" test airplane will result in refinements and changes that will appear in the final "kit" aircraft design."

You'll have a chance to learn more about the prototype airplane during our forums on Tuesday morning at AirVenture in Oshkosh, coming up in just a couple weeks!"

(from Mothership YT replies)

Trapeze ropes in cockpit:
"The rope pull handles are test aircraft feature only, to enable emergency door jettison if needed."

Fuel Tank:
"The fuel tank in the cabin is only for the test airplane. Certain prototype aircraft design considerations are there to enable us to make engineering changes and adjustments (keep in mind, this is an engineering test prototype airplane), easily change configurations in weight/balance, loading, etc."

Ordering:
"No, not yet. This is the engineering prototype, from which we develop the kit airplane. We will take orders once we know when kits can be delivered. That takes some time."

Misc:
"..... There are some features you just can't see (we can talk about those at OSH), and a couple things you mentioned were not quite correct...
Early flight - not the first flight.
Very close on your the take-off roll estimation. Yes - Flaps were up.
Prop correction: Hartzell prop. Big one. Constant Speed.
Fairings come later. This is a test prototype.
Push rod controls. Standard Van's style design.
Trapeze handles are in fact for emergency door jettison. Good catch!
The pilot definitely works for Van's. Great guy, and accomplished test pilot.
Softie is actually a parachute brand. :)
Correct on the in-airframe latching mechanism.
Again, keep in mind that everything is an engineering prototype design at this point.
The fuel tank in the right seat area is for the test article airplane. Flexibility in test loading, engineering changes, etc."


 

()
2+ years ago I took a stab at throwing together what I was hoping for:

Pretty darn close, and happy I am.  Of course I am going to build one (like thousands of others I suspect).  Most of the RV owners I've talked to so far want one of these to add to their 'RV envelope'.  It's going to change backcountry flying forever.

The heat index here in N.TX is going to be 112*F today - the shade under that wing will be most welcome.

The era of 'RV Backcountry' begins...

 

PS:  Finally got to change the icon on the 15 in the sub-forums below from:

to

How cool is that!

 

Related: Wallpaper Images

 

 

Now on to the rest of the today's RV news...

 

1st flight with grand kids ...Dvalcik

Lincoln's first flight in Grandpa's airplane, the Grand Kids were visiting over the 4th of July. Link is old enough now to take his first flight. It is so fun to look at flight through the eyes of a child. Even though my wife says that's me every time go up.

He had a great time and got the RV Grin. Many questions during the flight and hundreds more on the ground. He now he looks up at planes as they fly over.

What's better than the freedom of flight? Sharing the freedom of flight!

 

My RV Weekend

 

Broken Pitot Tubes at 92.0Hrs ...-12

Anyone ever seen a pitot tube broken near the front of the spinner?

On the flight back today I got airspeed unreliable. I was able to make a safe landing, but when I pulled the pitot tube it popped right out of the spinner.

It appears to have cracked circumferentially at about 3 inches form the front. No contact points or any rubbing from the spinner tip. Literally just cracked in open space.

I never noticed any unusual wobbling with the spinner. And I balanced the prop to .06 ips with a dynavibe at about 24 hrs flight time.

Any ideas?

 

U-00713C, DWG-C1, Nose Wheel Fairing Bracket ...wirejock -7A

Are these supposed to be loose?
They are not under any bolts. They fit over the washers.
Seems like the pant will vibrate. I suppose it's like that so they can be removed without pulling the axle bolt.

 

Petit Jean 2022 Date is Announced

The 2022 Gathering is ON ON ON. We will be gathering on the RV Mountain on Sept 16-18 with an early arrival day on Thursday the 15th. Usual great dinner at Mather Thursday night. Everything else is at the Rockefeller Center or on the ramp. From just hanging with old friends, to walking some amazing nature trials, and even taking a shot at some of those dastardly Petit Jean Trained Balloons with your fighter RVs... it's just going to be an awesome all RV Easy weekend on the Mountain. So yes.. It's all RV and it's happening on the RV Mountain at Petit Jean. Ask around ... a couple hundred of your closest RV buddies and buddettes can't be wrong Rooms are already scarce...  -->

 

Steven Dunkle RV-10 Milestone

Airworthiness doc issued (Vern Darley DAR)

 

Paul Merems Asking for Help

[ed. Paul runs ExperimentalAero.com and he asked if I could put a spotlight on him trying to get a Ukrainian family's dogs over to the USA with the family (it's expensive).  I offered to put it here so it doesn't conflict with the posting rules in the forums.  Paul put up a flyer HERE.  v/r,dr]

 

Help I'm in fuel hose H.E. double hockey sticks

Fuel hose between my gascolator and fuel pump sprung a leak. Time to change all the hoses, they must be 25 years old, although only 650 hrs of run. The failed hose took a 90 degree bend in a 11" of length end to end, failed in the bend somewhere.

Same hoses and fittings are used for fuel and oil cooler. Hose was stainless braided, with an inner rubber hose with I guess nylon braid or something similar. The fittings are all Earls, see pic.

Looking at spruce, I decided aeroquip was the way to go, reading the aeroquip hose catalog I landed on 601 as the proper hose. Of course this means I need new fittings, and the correct ones are $$.

Guys at the airport say "summit racing" sells aeroquip, same part numbers as spruce, but cheaper. I go to summits website, I don't see 601 hose or the fittings for it. I do see AQP hose which seems similar to 601, maybe just not "certified for AC"? Still, their AQP fittings don't look like the 601 fittings.

Can (should) I reuse the Earls fittings? If so what kind of hose?

This is getting long winded. Sorry.

I know what you guys are going to say...call aircraft specialtiy. And I am not against that, but want to know what I can assemble myself. They don't say what they are using, as in a brand, which makes me wonder. If not brand then tell me what specification it meets, MS or whatever, I have access to all that stuff.

 

#8 Screw Holes in Wing Flange for Fuel Tank ...-14

Section 13, page 13-03 has a note preceding Step 4 that says "Use a temporary screw in the nutplates to ensure proper alignment." Looking forward in the plans where the fuel tanks are attached, it calls out an AN509-8R8 screw. However, that screw will not fit in the hole as it's just a little bit undersized. Without opening up that hole I can't use a screw to hold the nutplate.

Elsewhere in the plans I see that the proper size drill for a #8 screw is a #19 drill. I'm scanning the plans to see if a #19 hole is drilled later on but it's a bit of a slog even using PDF find. There doesn't appear to be a step in Section 13 that calls out final drilling the #8 screw holes (or for that matter the #6 screw holes for the access panels).

Am I correct is assuming that this final drill of the #8 screws is done later in the plans? If so, am I going to mess something up if I do the final drill earlier than the plans state?

One alternative I can think of for alignment of the screw hole is to use a awl. I'm a bit concerned that if you final drill the screw hole with the nutplate already installed you run the risk of damaging the nutplate.

So to summarize here are my questions:

1. Should I final drill the #8 screw holes to #19 at Section 13?
2. Is there a reason the screw hole final drill is done later?

 

 

7/8/2022.  Issue #5,607.
  Wishing you and yours a happy, safe and RV-filled weekend.
   Contract pilot resume  
 

RV-8 Status Report from Sweden ...Dennis Isaksson

Getting there!  When i started the project i thought that when it looked like this it is almost finished.... man i was wrong :O

 

Do you safety your oil filter?

The thread about re-useable oil filters got me thinking about the practice of using safety wire on the oil filter and if it is really necessary.

I use to do it all the time but I rarely do it any more. It seems like a waste of time and effort. It always takes a lot of force to loosen a filter that has been torqued to 15 ft lbs.

Is this just a out dated practice that's done because "it's the way it's always been done"? Maybe it dates back to a time when filters were more apt to loosen on their own?

 

PG 30-02 step 8Bend tab outboard ...14

Trying to figure out why this one tab on each side needs to be bent outboard by 3/32. Any one that has done this already have insight?

 

Capacitive tank sensor inop

RE: RV-7 with OP-07 plans built system installed.

First 300 hours, tank gages worked well! Then I started seeing intermittent quantity indication on the right tank gage. Ie., it would show 'E-open' occasionally. Now it displays 'E-open' all the time.

I found the center conductor of the coax cable that is mounted on the inboard end of the fuel tank to be grounded. So somewhere inside the tank the plates, wire, or mounting screws have shorted to aircraft structure ground.

The best option would be to add a float sender to the end cap. My question is:
can this be done without removing the wing? Is there enough room between the fuselage and tank to install the float assembly?

I spoke with Van's today, and was told the capacitive system is no longer supported or offered. If anyone has run into this situation and knows a better solution, please advise. Thanks!

 

Seen in the Field ...Jake14 data point

went to check the connections like you said but it looks like it's [ed. alternator] throwing oil

 

Tube from my ram air to my airbox is on its last legs.

(Tim)
On my RV 4 with an o360 the tube from my ram air on the cowl to my airbox is on its last legs.

It appears to be a 1/8"+- sheet of silicone wrapped around into shape to fit and riveted into place on the airbox.

Would anyone have any idea on where to get this or other practical options? Would the one from a Citabria fit if cut to length?

 

(Carl)
If you are ok with fiberglass work, you can do something like this. This uses a 3" SCAT hose between the airbox and the cowl engine air inlet. I suggest you figure out what size SCAT hose works best for your inlet and modify the airbox accordingly.

 

VAF'er Forums (and appearances) at Airventure 2022 ...Paul gets it rolling

Here's a start at the annual thread to let everyone here know where and when they can hear the many VAF'ers who conduct forums/events at Airventure! There are many ways to spend your time in Oshkosh - these will at least (maybe) give you a chance to sit in a folding chair for 45 minutes...

So here is where you can find Paul:

Monday - 1300 CDT - EAA Wearhouse - Book Signing
Monday - 1430 CDT - Homebuilders Hangar - Forum "Flight Test 101"
Monday - 1900 CDT - Theater in the Woods - Van's 50th Celebration (Master of Ceremonies)

Tuesday - 1000 CDT - Forum Stage 6 - Forum "Lessons from Mission Control"

Wednesday - 0900 CDT - EAA Wearhouse - Book Signing
Wednesday - 1230 CDT - Pilot Proficiency Center - Flight Testing Safety Seminar "Inflight Emergencies"

Thursday - 1430 - Forum 7 - Forum "Shuttle, Houston"

Let's see who else is speaking; where, what about, and when!

 

 

7/7/2022.  Issue #5,606.
   Contract pilot resume  
 

First Flight today...Joeyo68

Completed my first flight today. What an experience.
Handles well, just like an RV should. Needs a touch of right rudder. Pulled the cowls, all clean, everything where it should be. One of the guys in the hangar flew chase and got some air to air shots.

 

WWII B25 pilot ...TomSpencer46 post

Yesterday had the honor to give a ride in my RV10 to a WWII B25 pilot.  He is 97 and sharp as a tack. After leveling off I gave him the controls he can still handle a stick. His only complaint was he could not make sense of the Garmin panel. Thanks for your service Norm.

 

Status Report: motodave

Feels like progress, finished up with the fuel tank riveting and pro-seal (what a messy job) and also got the leading edges riveted and test fitted. Planing on waiting a week or so to test the tanks for leaks, big time fingers crossed!

 

Tube from my ram air to my airbox is on its last legs.

On my RV 4 with an o360 the tube from my ram air on the cowl to my airbox is on its last legs.

It appears to be a 1/8"+- sheet of silicone wrapped around into shape to fit and riveted into place on the airbox.

Would anyone have any idea on where to get this or other practical options? Would the one from a Citabria fit if cut to length?

 

Ruder Lock Ideas....

(edclee's 9A)
Here is what I made for my RV-9A. Works the best of any solution I have tried or seen. Trim to get an exact fit for your plane. Drop 10-32 screws into the holes and it works a charm. I fabricated a 1" pvc pipe to hold the stick in the back, left position to hold ailerons and elevator.

(Lycosaurus)
I used a stainless U-bolt. Some artistic hammering on a vise, and voila. See photo as utilized on our RV9A. You should be able to find thinner U-bolts if that is what you are looking for.

Hanging it at the bottom allows some flex during windy times, minimizing stress on the rudder... I would think. So far has worked well for us during 13 years and 1100 hrs.

I have a light aluminum carabiner with a remove before flight flag that I attach to my headset as a reminder. Have never forgotten to remove the rudder gust lock in all that time.

 

Garmin at EAA AirVenture 2022 - Seminar Schedule

Greetings VAF!,

It's hard to believe that OSH is just over 2 weeks away! I wanted to post a link to the full seminar schedule that will be available to interested attendees during the week of AirVenture 2022. The Garmin seminar tents 1 and 2 will be located just south of the main Garmin showcase tent (with air conditioning!).

We are greatly looking forward to catching up with our customers and friends throughout the week. Be sure to come say hi to all of us on Team X! Our training team has also been hard at work this year - here are some of the specific training and seminar opportunities that will be of value to the EAB community. Full schedule in the above link as well:  --->

 

 

7/6/2022.  Issue #5,605.
 
Work continues on Flash's annual.  A few this and thats to deal with, but nothing too out of the ordinary.  Hotter than the devil's balls here today...as they say.  Ugh.
   Contract pilot resume  
 

 

RV-8A fuel smell after landing

Hi folks:
I just "adopted" my recently purchased and RV-8A and did my transition training. It is a wonderful aircraft to fly. Lots of minor squawks but a possibly worriesome one that I wanted to consult the experts on this forum on.
I have a carbureted O-360.
After landing with the fuel boost pump on and mixture rich I get a smell of fuel that goes away. This happens every time on landing

 

More from this Past Weekend

 

Fuel flow fluctuation when hot

edit: Sorry...the title is misleading. I meant to type that the gauge-displayed Fuel Pressure fluctuates when the engine is hot....

Background: RV-9A with IO-320 D1A. Fuel flow read from a Red Cube (new) driving an EMS part of an Advanced Flight 5400 EFIS. Red Cube mounted on firewall next to a Weldon 8163A boost pump. Engine driven pump is a Tempest, and was replaced about 70 hours ago.

Issue: When the engine is hot, I often get low fuel pressure when running on the engine-driven fuel pump while taxiing or on approach with manifold pressure at about 15 inches. No stuttering or anything from the engine, just low fuel pressure at the very bottom of the green arc according to the EFIS fuel pressure gauge. Doesn't do this during flight, nor when the engine is not heat-soaked. Works fine in cold weather and first flight of the day.

Trying to decide if this is a problem. The engine performs well otherwise. When I first picked up the plane, the engine-driven fuel pump went out...noted when the engine kept dying while taxiing. Replaced the original Lycoming engine-driven pump with a Tempest at that time. That was about 70 tach hours ago.

Any thoughts...?

 

Gen Main Bus Fuse Blowing

I have a -12is stuck at a remote airport. Every time I try to start the plane, the prop turns about 1/4 turn and then the 30amp Gen Main Bus fuse blows. I have check all wiring for a short and found nothing. Has anyone experienced this issue?

 

Advertiser Spotlight:  RV Bits RV Wingtip Light Modules

 

Aircraft "home base" during Phase 1

My newly issued operating limitations reference my requested phase 1 test area:

"This aircraft must be operated for at least 40 hours with at least 10 takeoffs and landings in this geographical area: Region bounded by the following points, [airports listed here]."

They say nothing about where my aircraft is based. Can I safely assume I can rent a hangar in any airport within my test area and do phase 1 out of that airport, and would I have to notify a FSDO or my DAR if I changed home base?

 

 

7/5/2022.  Issue #5,604.
   Contract pilot resume  
 

Build Update ...ryankhall

Happy 4th of July!

July 1, 2017 was the day I started on the tail kit. Not sure where time has gone, but here's an update on where I'm at today:

I'm nearly done with the windscreen and I'm estimating that after this long, Holiday weekend I should be complete. After that, I'm done with everything I want to do here in my garage. I'm leaving the wheel pants and leg fairings for later.

Everything else is done! Wings completed, installed, rigged, etc. previously in my garage. VFR panel done. FWF, Engine, Prop, etc. all installed.

It's been all heart and soul! I've loved the build process. Definitely didn't enjoy certain parts of the build, but just carried on with the grind.

Thanks to VAF for keeping me motivated!

 

Leaking brake fitting

All, have a brake fitting that is leaking slowly but enough to put drips down overnight. I've tightened this as much as I dare, the only other option is to cut off the tip and re-do the flare (provided there is no other obvious cause causing a bad seal - like a piece of dirt etc). Is this correct thinking or should I try something else prior?

 

VAF'er Forums (and appearances) at Airventure 2022 ...Paul gets it rolling

Here's a start at the annual thread to let everyone here know where and when they can hear the many VAF'ers who conduct forums/events at Airventure! There are many ways to spend your time in Oshkosh - these will at least (maybe) give you a chance to sit in a folding chair for 45 minutes...

So here is where you can find Paul:

Monday - 1300 CDT - EAA Wearhouse - Book Signing
Monday - 1430 CDT - Homebuilders Hangar - Forum "Flight Test 101"
Monday - 1900 CDT - Theater in the Woods - Van's 50th Celebration (Master of Ceremonies)

Tuesday - 1000 CDT - Forum Stage 6 - Forum "Lessons from Mission Control"

Wednesday - 0900 CDT - EAA Wearhouse - Book Signing
Wednesday - 1230 CDT - Pilot Proficiency Center - Flight Testing Safety Seminar "Inflight Emergencies"

Thursday - 1430 - Forum 7 - Forum "Shuttle, Houston"

Let's see who else is speaking; where, what about, and when!

 

Panel Status: Terry Shortt

 

Model Decided

After our trip to Sun N Fun we have decided on our model. We checked out the Velocity XL and the Vans RV-10 and RV-14. While the mission is typically 2 adults and baggage I'm a big guy by all specifications. 6'6" 350lbs. The Velocity fit as long as I reclined the seat and didn't shut the door. It had the exact same feeling of me squeezing into a Porsche at Track Experience. I could do it as long as I didn't need to wear a helmet. The RV-14 was the easiest to get into due to the flip up canopy but with the seat all the way back my knees were still hitting the panel and the control stick was bumping on nose up. The RV-10 was difficult to get into but was a great fit once inside. Looking at the setup I think some modifications can be made to make getting in and out a little easier. It would involve setting the rails back about 3-4 more inches so that the seat could slide back for getting in and out of it.

Next step is a shop build so I have a proper place to work, tools and empennage kit purchase. Oh and solving my budget issue. All the little things.

 

PIREP: Mid-Atlantic Gathering of RV's

Thanks Steve and to EAA Chapter 1384 for hosting the fun Mid-Atlantic Gathering of RVs fly-in. Essex Skypark was well represented with four RVs flying in plus at least three from Easton. Attached are some pictures. For a more pics and write-up go Here.

 

One more milestone down, one to go! ...Joeyo68

After almost 7 years of building, RV7, SN 74466 officially morphed from kit, to aeroplane, with the issue of a Phase 1 CofA!

The weather is looking promising over the next few days. 🤞

The longer engine mount, with the 3 blade GT ground adjustable prop put the CofG smack in the middle of the envelope.

BEW - 1114.9lb

Happy Days

 

My RV Weekend....



 

Rear Seat G5 ...Australia

Here is a picture of a Garmin G5 that I installed for the back seat occupant on my RV8 with a fastback conversion. It's in the very initial stages of the fitout in the photo and I subsequently trimmed away the .063 aluminium so that there's no loss of view. It's secured with double sided tape and cable ties to preserve the integrity of the roll bar. I measured very carefully and it doesn't impinge on the front seat at all and the knobs miss the gas struts on the canopy. I went for the G5 because I thought that a bigger display set lower might not work so well. But seeing some of the other good looking setups on the thread, I might have been mistaken and that might have been a better way to go. The disadvantage is that as backup instrument it needs it's own pitot and static connections but it does work well and talks to the G3X up the front without issue. I had hoped that I could configure it to repeat the airspeed and altitude from the front but that's not the way it worked.

 

Milestone: HaveQuestions 7A

Whooohoo! The Empennage is DONE!

Got busy at work and didn't have time to focus on building. Took the long weekend to set the last few rivets on the Rudder. Now to review with a local to see if I did it well enough...

 

RV-8 and the Cloudy Holiday Weekend ...video

In typical Northwest fashion it was scheduled to stop raining right after the 4th of July. Saturday was looking to be the best day of the weekend, so we wanted to get some flying in, but the weather was still crummy enough that we couldn't go too far, particularly to the south.

We ended up going up to Skagit for lunch and then headed out the Strait toward the coast. The weather was calm as we neared Pt. Angeles, so we decided to go take a turn around Mt. Olympus then head out to Neah Bay then home.

It was a nice day overall.

 

7/4/2022.  Issue #5,603.
   Contract pilot resume  
 

In Congress, July 4, 1776.
The unanimous Declaration of the thirteen united States of America, When in the Course of human events, it becomes necessary for one people to dissolve the political bands which have connected them with another, and to assume among the powers of the earth, the separate and equal station to which the Laws of Nature and of Nature's God entitle them, a decent respect to the opinions of mankind requires that they should declare the causes which impel them to the separation.
We hold these truths to be self-evident, that all men are created equal, that they are endowed by their Creator with certain unalienable Rights, that among these are Life, Liberty and the pursuit of Happiness.--That to secure these rights, Governments are instituted among Men, deriving their just powers from the consent of the governed, --That whenever any Form of Government becomes destructive of these ends, it is the Right of the People to alter or to abolish it, and to institute new Government, laying its foundation on such principles and organizing its powers in such form, as to them shall seem most likely to effect their Safety and Happiness. Prudence, indeed, will dictate that Governments long established should not be changed for light and transient causes; and accordingly all experience hath shewn, that mankind are more disposed to suffer, while evils are sufferable, than to right themselves by abolishing the forms to which they are accustomed. But when a long train of abuses and usurpations, pursuing invariably the same Object evinces a design to reduce them under absolute Despotism, it is their right, it is their duty, to throw off such Government, and to provide new Guards for their future security.--Such has been the patient sufferance of these Colonies; and such is now the necessity which constrains them to alter their former Systems of Government. The history of the present King of Great Britain is a history of repeated injuries and usurpations, all having in direct object the establishment of an absolute Tyranny over these States. To prove this, let Facts be submitted to a candid world.

He has refused his Assent to Laws, the most wholesome and necessary for the public good.
He has forbidden his Governors to pass Laws of immediate and pressing importance, unless suspended in their operation till his Assent should be obtained; and when so suspended, he has utterly neglected to attend to them.
He has refused to pass other Laws for the accommodation of large districts of people, unless those people would relinquish the right of Representation in the Legislature, a right inestimable to them and formidable to tyrants only.
He has called together legislative bodies at places unusual, uncomfortable, and distant from the depository of their public Records, for the sole purpose of fatiguing them into compliance with his measures.
He has dissolved Representative Houses repeatedly, for opposing with manly firmness his invasions on the rights of the people.
He has refused for a long time, after such dissolutions, to cause others to be elected; whereby the Legislative powers, incapable of Annihilation, have returned to the People at large for their exercise; the State remaining in the mean time exposed to all the dangers of invasion from without, and convulsions within.
He has endeavoured to prevent the population of these States; for that purpose obstructing the Laws for Naturalization of Foreigners; refusing to pass others to encourage their migrations hither, and raising the conditions of new Appropriations of Lands.
He has obstructed the Administration of Justice, by refusing his Assent to Laws for establishing Judiciary powers.
He has made Judges dependent on his Will alone, for the tenure of their offices, and the amount and payment of their salaries.
He has erected a multitude of New Offices, and sent hither swarms of Officers to harrass our people, and eat out their substance.
He has kept among us, in times of peace, Standing Armies without the Consent of our legislatures.
He has affected to render the Military independent of and superior to the Civil power.
He has combined with others to subject us to a jurisdiction foreign to our constitution, and unacknowledged by our laws; giving his Assent to their Acts of pretended Legislation:
For Quartering large bodies of armed troops among us:
For protecting them, by a mock Trial, from punishment for any Murders which they should commit on the Inhabitants of these States:
For cutting off our Trade with all parts of the world:
For imposing Taxes on us without our Consent:
For depriving us in many cases, of the benefits of Trial by Jury:
For transporting us beyond Seas to be tried for pretended offences
For abolishing the free System of English Laws in a neighbouring Province, establishing therein an Arbitrary government, and enlarging its Boundaries so as to render it at once an example and fit instrument for introducing the same absolute rule into these Colonies:
For taking away our Charters, abolishing our most valuable Laws, and altering fundamentally the Forms of our Governments:
For suspending our own Legislatures, and declaring themselves invested with power to legislate for us in all cases whatsoever.
He has abdicated Government here, by declaring us out of his Protection and waging War against us.
He has plundered our seas, ravaged our Coasts, burnt our towns, and destroyed the lives of our people.
He is at this time transporting large Armies of foreign Mercenaries to compleat the works of death, desolation and tyranny, already begun with circumstances of Cruelty & perfidy scarcely paralleled in the most barbarous ages, and totally unworthy the Head of a civilized nation.
He has constrained our fellow Citizens taken Captive on the high Seas to bear Arms against their Country, to become the executioners of their friends and Brethren, or to fall themselves by their Hands.
He has excited domestic insurrections amongst us, and has endeavoured to bring on the inhabitants of our frontiers, the merciless Indian Savages, whose known rule of warfare, is an undistinguished destruction of all ages, sexes and conditions.

In every stage of these Oppressions We have Petitioned for Redress in the most humble terms: Our repeated Petitions have been answered only by repeated injury. A Prince whose character is thus marked by every act which may define a Tyrant, is unfit to be the ruler of a free people.
Nor have We been wanting in attentions to our Brittish brethren. We have warned them from time to time of attempts by their legislature to extend an unwarrantable jurisdiction over us. We have reminded them of the circumstances of our emigration and settlement here. We have appealed to their native justice and magnanimity, and we have conjured them by the ties of our common kindred to disavow these usurpations, which, would inevitably interrupt our connections and correspondence. They too have been deaf to the voice of justice and of consanguinity. We must, therefore, acquiesce in the necessity, which denounces our Separation, and hold them, as we hold the rest of mankind, Enemies in War, in Peace Friends.
We, therefore, the Representatives of the United States of America, in General Congress, Assembled, appealing to the Supreme Judge of the world for the rectitude of our intentions, do, in the Name, and by Authority of the good People of these Colonies, solemnly publish and declare, That these United Colonies are, and of Right ought to be Free and Independent States; that they are Absolved from all Allegiance to the British Crown, and that all political connection between them and the State of Great Britain, is and ought to be totally dissolved; and that as Free and Independent States, they have full Power to levy War, conclude Peace, contract Alliances, establish Commerce, and to do all other Acts and Things which Independent States may of right do. And for the support of this Declaration, with a firm reliance on the protection of divine Providence, we mutually pledge to each other our Lives, our Fortunes and our sacred Honor.

 

7/1/2022.  Issue #5,603.
 
Wishing you and yours a happy, safe and RV-filled weekend.
   Contract pilot resume  
 

Michael Wellennzohn's RV-10 is Back in the Air

The change from VP200 to ACM and new Cockpit took a bit longer than planned but now we are back in the air again :)

 

Found During Flash's Annual ...

Thinning (wear) on the tubes caused my RV-6's leaks.  Photos by Randy Richmond.  Four pictures starting HERE.

Getting her ready for OSH.

 

PhatRV's DIY Fairings

For my RV8, the wheel fairings and leg fairings were completed using the plans build instructions. The left and right wheel fairings were aligned using the simple contraption in the picture below, keeping the left and right ends in alignment and the cant angles the same on both sides. The holes for the clecos were closed with micros when done.

I decided to mold the intersection fairings myself instead of buying from the suppliers. For the negative mold, I use the soft non-hardending modeling clay from here. I tried to use the window sealant foam but it was messy and difficult to clean.

This stuff doesn't harden but you can shape it and it keeps it shape firmly enough for molding. I used 3 layers of fiberglass after a few liberal coatings of PVA mold release. After demolding, I had to coat the exterior with epoxy and micro and sanded smooth. The added thickness smooth out the bumps and added additional stiffness to the intersection fairing. The last picture shows the intersection fairing pieces after they were painted with primer.


 

-3 Gear Dampers ...Ironflight

I want to preserve this information in the RV-3 forum, even though it is partially copied from a thread over on teh RV-4 forum - the RV-3 gear legs are wet noodles enough that some form of stiffener/damper is generally required, and the wooden ones have always been a bit marginal for us.

I just finished doing this modification on our -3, something I have contemplated for quite awhile, but never got around to doing. At our annual a couple of weeks ago, I noticed that the wooden stiffeners had de bonded, and weren't doing much...so it was time. And with only one test flight in the box, I can still give a pretty definitive answer that the metal stiffeners are better! Our wooden stiffeners were on there from day one, and with almost 800 hours, and were doign very little. The truth is, we have always had a shimmy with these spindly RV-3 legs - we just controlled it with lower tire pressure, braking, and avoiding certain taxi speeds.

Installing metal dampers was probably a total of about six hour's work - I spread it out over a couple of days, but it was straightforward. Based on notes from Dave Paule, I used 1/8" x 1-1/2" aluminum, and seven Adel clamps. I removed the rubber from the Adel clamps, mostly because I was worried about the outside diameter affecting the fit of our gear leg fairings. Largest Adel is -18, smallest is -12, and they are spaced to where they are naturally tight on the gear leg for their diameter - note that this is NOT evenly spaced. There's a single wrap of Gorilla Tape under each clamp, just to seat them better.

Spacers were required between the clamp and the metal bar stock to put the center of the bar stock through the center of the gear leg. Screws are low-profile #10 Allen heads, 1" long, and fastened with low profile nylon lock nuts. Washers and s machined bushings were used for spacers, and there was approximately a single washer difference between adjacent clamps. The existing gear leg fairing fit right back in place!

 

Quote of the Month ...DaleB

I feel like I've spent half my life looking for that tool I just had in my hand a minute ago.

 

July Wallpaper Calendar ...Ed Hicks pic

 

SloMo 6A TnG Video Today at My Home Field ...

Plane turned final as I was driving into the airport.  Pulled over and got out with the iPhone. <g>.

 

Seen on the Mothership

 

Mike6a's Panel Shot

 

Mid-Atlantic Gathering of RVs ...plane count by Steve Koziol

I wanted to post a quick plane count on our Mid-Atlantic Gathering of RV's this past Saturday. We had 32 RV's make the trip to our little airport with another 5 non-RV's rounding out the official total of 37 aircraft. Unofficially we had another 10 aircraft mix of RV's, GA and Experimental aircraft including a Gyrocopter that wanted to see some awesome RV on the field arrive toward the end of the day. Food consisted of some very fine and large Hot Dogs chips and fresh Brautwurst supplied by our own Marty Teramini. Special thanks to our Registration team who presented each Pilot and Crew with a cold bottle of water and a bag of Toll House cookies. Tons of bottled water rounded out the serving and water was placed strategically thought-out the flight line and meeting area. Yes, it was forecasted to be hot, and it was. Thanks again to all of you who attended and supported our flyin. We look forward to hosting this again in 2023!
Steve

 

TrukSnave's New Panel

 

 

6/30/2022.  Issue #5,602.
   Contract pilot resume  
 

Welcome Mark Reid

Hi all my RV aviators . Just joined the forum today . So thought I would show you my new RV 6.  Completed all the test flying in January as well as my conversion. I left the spats off while practicing landing at all the short Grass runways. She has all of 48 hour in total

 

Trent Stewart's Rolling Tool Masterpiece

All my Aircaft specific tools are in here - it's been absolutely invaluable and takes up a 1/4 a metre of floor space. I pretty well have it next to me and at the conclusion of each small task the tool(s) I'm using get put back. Especially important with squeezer dies and drill bits - only ever have one of those out of the cart at a time.

 

Fuel leak

I have removed a totally electric fuel system from my RV7A and have redone it to a Vans blueprint system with one mechanical pump and one electric pump. Once complete, everything was pressure tested with no leaks found. Now after 10 flight hours I have found leaks coming from the 90's where they connect to the fuel selector valve. When I was assembling this system, I could not fully tighten the 90's because they would be out of position to line up with the fuel lines coming from the tanks. There must be a simple solution to this I just can't think of it. Any help or ideas will be greatly appreciated.
__________________
2006 RV7A 3rd owner

 

Mr. X Pic

It's been awhile.  This climbing out of Aspen with showers and a low sun.


full size

related: The Mr. X Folder

 

Looking for RV-9A and lots of questions

Hi all! I just sold my Mooney after owning it for 12 years and looking to replace it with an RV-9A. My flying has changed quite a bit and I think the -9A would fit the bill nicely. I need to learn about all of the quirks, gotchas and things to look for when buying and owning.

I have done my own annuals and repairs on my Mooney for the last 6 years, so I'm no stranger to airplane wrenching and intend to do the work on the Vans too. I assume the annuals are pretty straight forward?

I'm open to any of the usual engine options from the O-235 to the O, or IO-320. I just really want an aircraft engine and not a conversion. I am on a budget, so it doesn't need a full IFR glass panel and all the bells and whistles. The 235 engine intrigues me for the slightly lower operating costs and maybe lower acquisition price?? Anybody here have one built with this engine? Real performance numbers?

Also, I will be looking for somebody to do a pre-buy inspection hopefully and also transition training. I live in Northern California and have been an EAA member for for over a decade.

Any help would be awesome and thanks in advance!!

 

Kit Lead Times Update ...mothership Greg

We've just updated the lead times on our website for several of our RV airplane kits - namely most of our tail/empennage, fuselage, and wing kits. We're working hard on finishing kits and hope to update those in the near future. Some of the lead times have been brought in significantly as we produce is larger and more predictable batches. We will be refining these lead times even more as we continue to refine the data and gain more experience in our new processes.

As many of you. know, we have made significant changes at our factory to accommodate order volume and better predictability in production and delivery. The new lead times calculations are one of the results of that work, and we continue to implement additional layers of changes.

You can check the current kit lead times out at the link:

 

 

6/29/2022.  Issue #5,601.
 
Excuse the early push - side hustle to help w/the fam budget.
   Contract pilot resume  
 

From the 'Tools Organizing' Thread ...LukeD entry

 

Chris Hrabe Polishing PIREP

I've gotten a few inquiries on the methods / materials that I used to polish my RV-9A that's currently posted for sale here.

First off, I didn't start out as an expert, nor do I think of myself as one now that I've polished one aircraft. However, I did contact the experts at NuVite, and following their advice and a fair amount of practice I think I've mostly figured it out, and I'm seeing good results. Your milage may vary.

 

Stick to the Plans

An article in Kitplanes on Tony Kirk's RV-7 painted like Randall Henderson's 1994 Portland RVators' fly-in T-shirt (Scappoose, OR - Home Wing).  [ed. Not to be confused with the VansAirForce.net logo up top <g> v/r,dr]

Wonderful article and a beautiful RV!



 

Aircraft vs non-aircraft parts: when is it ok?

We all joke about getting supplies from the National Aircraft Parts Association (NAPA auto parts store), but while working on my avionics lately I've been using a mix of Adel clamps from Home Depot and ACS (you never have the right part at 9am on Saturday morning with the rest of the weekend scheduled and free for working on the plane, and I am planning on going back over and replacing the HD clamps with ones from ACS later.).

I'd never use a non-aircraft rated part in a critical area such as the engine compartment, but as I fought to secure an ACS Adel clamp in a difficult location I thought about the 1" HD clamp sitting on the bench that had far less resistance and would be far easier to use.


So what do you think? When, or would it ever be, ok to use an a non-aircraft vs aircraft rated part in an aircraft?

 

Panel Upgrade ...Bud K -4

I recently updated my 2002 panel. Replaced my Rocky Mountain Instruments EMS/Altimeter and Microair Transceiver/Transponder with Dynon Skyview HDX and Garmin 175 GPS. And, since I was at it, I added a smoke tank.

 

Engine Preservation. Cheap, hopefully effective apporach

My Titan Engine is supposed to be preserved. It's been out of the desiccated bag a a few months now as I flounder with baffles, firewall component layout, cowling, etc. Can't over-fill the engine with oil until after I install the governor (on order) so working in circles as always.

Already had desiccant plugs installed in the cylinders. Got nervous and attempted to desiccate the engine ullage space. Utilized three sizes of vinyl tube (7/8" ID down to 1/2" ID) from the STC/PMA aisle of Ace hardware nested together/sealed down to a 1/2" nylon barb connection. There's less than $20 in this including the lb of reusable desiccant (from ACS).

Cheap = Big yes
Effective = Should be. We'll see. The worst thing that can happen is if the desiccant never indicates.

Before someone points out the lack of an air pump, etc. gonna say that equilibrium is a wonderful thing.

The desiccant dries very easily in the oven. Already done it a few times for the plugs. Here's a pic of the cheapa$$ dryer laying on the mount. Will secure it with a velcro strap. I'll update on perceived effectiveness if anyone wishes. Powerplants aren't getting any cheaper.

 

Sneak peak! ...jcarne

Okay, I couldn't pass up posting this picture of my plane smiling while getting some vinyl.

 

 

6/28/2022.  Issue #5,600.
   Contract pilot resume  
 

More From the 'My RV Weekend' Thread



 

Wingtips Move, Hinge Method  ...SeanB update

Update...I added hinge material forward of the existing on both top and bottom runs. I got well into the curve of the leading edge with hopes of arresting play between the eyelets. Had to bevel a few eyelets to get them to interlace. It was quite a bit of extra work. Result? Right wingtip is still moving, but not as much. Maybe 1/8" up and down at trailing edge. Tighter than it was. Left one is about the same as before. Maybe 3/16" movement, but firm. Not sure if it was worth all the effort. In all other aspects, the tips are very solid.

 

Why is #3 so hot on climb-out???

I have a major CHT problem with my #3 cylinder that has me "baffled" so I am asking for advice. Problem is getting worse with the hot weather here.

Two year old RV-9A with O-320-D2B 160HP rebuilt engine. Engine was built with all new Lycoming cylinders. Plane has about 140 hours total time. Dual Pmags timed at 2* ATDC. Garmin G3X panel. Catto fix pitch prop.

On climb out, #3 heats up fast and run as much as 100* hotter than the other cylinders. EGT is 150* hotter than the average of the other cylinders as well. I have to stay below 200-300 fpm climb to keep #3 below 425*. Oil temps are fine at 190*. Oil cooler is mounted on the firewall and gets air through a 4" duct behind #4. Even with all this air diverted from #4, it runs relatively cool. These is no air dam in front of #1 and there is a stock full height air dam in front of #2. Any air dam in front of #1 only makes the problem worse. Fuel flow is 13.5 GPH at full rich during climb.

Here is the kicker: once at cruising altitude, all the CHT's level out and #3 is slightly cooler than the other cylinders. If #3 had a vacuum leak, it seems it would be worse at cruise than during climb out.

My baffles fit well and all gaps and holes are sealed. The inlet ramps are sealed internally. I have tried the washer trick between the rear baffle and #3 cylinder, but it seems to make no difference. There are no fins near the screw anyway.

One other piece of info that may or may not be relevant: I have 78/80 compressions on #1,2 and 4, but only 70-72/80 on #3. I has been this way since new. Air leakage during the test seems to come out the crankcase, so it is getting past the rings. I don't see how this would affect my heating issue, but it is suspicious, no?

Has anyone tried to duct air transversely across the top of the engine? Would the ASA electric shutter system solve this problem?

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

 

Kentlik 7A Update ...Wing Stuff

 

Rare miss in flight

I was hoping this group could help. Recently bought a 7. In flight at cruise, I get an occasional miss or stutter. So quick, my passenger doesn't notice and my engine monitor does not catch it. Literally like it just doesn't fire on cylinder on one revolution. It doesn't always happen, but some flights it may do it 5 times over a 15 min period. It is noticeable enough to get me wondering what is going on.

O-320 160hp, one bendix mag (300 hrs since oh) and 1 PMag (300 since new).
Enriching mixture does not prevent it.
Running elec Fuel Pump doesn't prevent it.
I have not done an extended single mag cruise test as it doesn't happen that frequent and concerned about running on a single mag for 15+ mins.
EGT/CHT appear normal.

A&P checked;
Compression 75 cold across all cylinders. Borescope clean. No visible damage to plug wires. Mags timed. Plugs looked great after 40 hours since last cleaning. He is at a loss. Recommendation to get both mags serviced/overhauled. Then replace wires if that does not fix it.

Before I start sending parts off for overhaul and replacing items I was hoping this group may have other ideas on what to check or may have experienced something similar.

 

 

6/27/2022.  Issue #5,599.
 
It was a quick weekend with a couple of side hustle sims and mowing our neighbor's yard (their premature twins came home from the hospital and there's no way that guy has a free nanosecond).  Weekend gone too fast.  Hot.
  Hope you had a nice one and got to do RV stuff!
   Contract pilot resume  
 

First flight RV-9A ...cgeyman

Uneventful first flight- but high CHTs of 430 cylinders 1 and 2- need to cut down the air ramps. Fixed pitch Sensenich composite prop- really miss my prior constant speed engine on my prior plane. Flew well, starting phase one and still doing engine break-in.

 

Milestone: Draker 7A

2022-06-23: It's done. Airworthiness certificate in hand!

 

Milestone: First Engine Start ...Joeyo68

All went well. Happy Days!

 

Vinyl Skinned Panel ...Larry Larson PIREP

 

Oshkosh 2022 HBC Beer Tasting?

I've not been on the forum as of late since, I've been building a house in western NC. Excuse me if I've missed the thread. I searched, but found nil.

The Sunday evening pre-oshkosh HBC event was created by Mike from Baltimore. I've assisted & managed the event in Mike's absence. I will be in attendance this year & I'm willing to keep Mike's tradition going with the usual volunteers.
Mike, please chime in, so we may continue this popular event.

Jerry & Jay, can we count on you, as you've both been terrific in making this event a success.

 

What's behind your panel? (Pictures)

Looking for ideas and inspirations on wiring.

 

DanH Sealing Baffles Reply

Be sure to run a tiny bead across the aluminum wrap when installed over the above. Don't want air leaking between the aluminum wrap and the outside of the RTV/glass wrap.

I have closed larger gaps with a strip of RTV impregnated glass fabric. That said, most leaks are best closed with a plain bead of sealant.

 

Move wings without flatbed trailer

My family is moving to a new home (with larger garage for airplane factory...ok, there's more reasons than just that) soon and I am looking for ideas on how to safely transport the wings. I've seen people use flatbed trailers and strap them down. I could do that, but I'll already have a Uhaul and am trying to figure out a way to use that instead. I also just like the feeling of them being enclosed in a box truck better than strapped on for dear life on a flatbed trailer. Only issue is that there isn't a great way to secure them to the floor in a Uhaul that I can think of. There are no points to strap them down.  -->

 

Front Cylinder Air Dam Question

My RV-10 has always had it's #6 cylinder as the hottest on climbout (I know this is normal). It's usually the only one to get above 400. I had previously cut both air dams off for cooling of front cylinders. My right bank is fine (Cyl. #'s 1, 3 & 5). But I was curious if adding the dam back onto the left bank (#'s 2, 4 & 6) may help #6 cooling. I realize #2 will get a little hotter, but if it cools #6 more, I'm ok with that. Here's a screenshot of engine data on a 100 + degree day in south TX. All cylinders below 400, except #6 which got to 416. Cruise temps are all 380 and below.

Has anyone added the air dam back AFTER taking it off? Is so, what difference did it make for you?

 

My RV Weekend

 

RV-6a wing removal in a field

I bent up my RV6a yesterday while landing at a remote airport. Thankfully no injuries. Nose gear damage and prop strike.

I was not the builder. I need to remove the wings for transport back to my home field. From what I understand, the main gear needs support to get the wings out.

Any suggestions for doing this in a remote grassy field with a folded nose gear?

I've read about making a false spar but I'm not clear how that would work.

The stress from the incident along with the wing removal is a bit overwhelming. I started on the smaller spar bolts and as others have noted, it's not easy.

 

 

6/24/2022.  Issue #5,598.
  Wishing you and yours a happy, safe and RV-filled weekend.
   Contract pilot resume  
 

Van's AirVenture 2022 Banquet Tickets On Sale Now

[2/25/22 0004Z update:  SOLD OUT]
GET YOUR TICKETS now for the Van's Aircraft Banquet at AirVenture 2022! They're available to purchase now on our web store. The dinner event will take place on Tuesday evening at OSH, as the Nature Center Pavillion. Seating is limited to 300 guests, and we look forward to seeing you there.

Door prizes, 50th-anniversary stuff, and more!

 

Paint PIREP ...Bill E (-4)

PPG Desothane Milspec flats
At my dayjob, we do depot maintenance for a large USAF flying gas station, which is entirely flat grey, AKA "Camo Grey" and some flat white and black for the markings. We use PPG Desothane which is a very robust 2 part urethane aircraft paint. It doesn't have the same full flat absorbency that leaves grease marks and stains, and can be washed like any other paint. I painted my RV-4 with gloss Desothane white 12 years ago, and it is some of the most durable paint around.

 

Confusion about breaking the edges on the elevator counterbalance skins ...-14

Q: Hi, I have the same question (the first I post on this forum )

"It's clear where to break the counterbalance skins."

This is not clear to me. The E-913 counterbalance skins are underneath the elevevator skins. Should I break the counterbalance skins towards the fairings?

Thanks for input.

A: Here's where you should break the counterbalance skins:

 

Fathers Day present from one of my sons ...Bsquared

Me and my 14-A

 

Forward and Aft CG Check in W&B Record

I have a forward and aft CG check in my W&B spreadsheet to give a basic limit check. The values are dependent on a standard passenger weight of 170. FAA raised the summer standard to 190# for 121 last year and wondering if it make sense to do the same. Is it typical to follow the same standard in the 91 world?

 

It's time for a change

I have been in turmoil for a few months trying to decide the direction to go. I started my RV career in an 8a put about 400 hours in it and worked on it making changes the entire time, enjoying every minute. As the family grew I decided to move into a 10 which I have really enjoyed flying and upgrading it along the way. I looked at picture of a past memory in the 10 and it was 9 years ago, amazing how time flies. The kids are now grown and Can't remember the last time I had 4 people in my 10. I still carry a lot of gear or supplies in the 10 but the 8a use to handle my carrying supplies just fine. Pulling the trigger to sell my 10 is the hardest part but I really miss flying an 8, I really love the centerline flying so that's why a side by side just wont work. I'm turning 60 next month and the safe thing to do is go back to an 8a, but there is a lot larger market with the 8 and you don't have to take the constant badger from the tail wheel pilots. <g> . Thinking ahead for the next 10 years should I keep waiting on the perfect 8a or should I get some time in the tail wheel to see how difficult it really is, or will be when I'm approaching 70? I also might find out that the tail wheel guys just have big ego's. (just kidding) Telling my wife will not go well, but the other problem I solve is my screen name will once again be correct.
__________________
Tim Blake
Colleyville, Tx
RV8a Purchased flying (many changes) Sold
RV-10 Purchased flying.. Panel upgrade complete.

 

High Oil Temp Follow-up ...Jim Stricker -12

As a follow-up to my original post #1... I modified the lower cowling to move the oil cooler 1" forward. Worked a charm...  Now in cruise flight, at 75 OAT, I see 207F oil temp. I should have no problem staying in green arc with exception of long climb on really hot day

 

Panel Wiring Service Loops

I've been working on my wiring lately and I'm almost to the point of hooking up one side of my modular panel. On my copilot side I have a GDU450 and a couple of rows of circuit breakers. I routed some of the wires into the area behind that GDU450 and I'm ready to start making connections to the panel. I was trying to figure out the best way to route those wire bundles such that I would be able to pull the panel out and allow enough room to remove connectors and etc. I'm wondering what others have done? Did you just allow some extra length and not worry about supporting that length? I was a little worried about doing that. Did you make a loop with a cable tie and plan to clip it prior to removing the panel? Any thoughts and/or pictures would be helpful.

 

Importance of Wire Support ...KHeidorn

My flight ended with a low voltage warning.

The "B" lead attached to the alternator was not supported sufficiently and over 250 hours of vibration caused the terminal to crack then arc.

Certainly, could have been much worse.

 

 

6/23/2022.  Issue #5,597.
  Excuse the early push....BBQ date with wife. ;^).
   Contract pilot resume  



Ed Hicks photo (from the archives)

 

Mid-Atlantic Gathering of RV's

Well, we are on the final phase of preparing and setting up for our 2022 Mid-Atlantic Gathering of RV's at DMW in Westminster, MD. The weather is shaping up to be a nice dry and HOT weekend. We will have plenty of water to cool you down from your flight. Bring a GA friend along and introduce them to the world of RV's. Yes, food and friendship are on tap. Safe travels and remember that Runway 34 is a Right Pattern! Any questions, call me at 267 614-8251. Steve, RV9A

 

Fuel level sender wire broken...WingnutWick


Been asked to fix a fuel sender wire coming from the tank that has a broken ring terminal connector. (see photo). I figured I could probably just rotate the flathead fitting there to unscrew it and replace the connector but when I do it just keeps spinning without coming out. Having no experience with these senders from a maintenance/build/install standpoint I am curious if I am going about this the correct way. Do I have to pull the entire plate off to be able to get to the other side to unscrew this? If so, how much of a pain is that?

Thanks all!

 

Let's Flood EAA With RV Pictures! ...Ironflight

Many of you are aware that Airventure is going to be celebrating the 50th anniversary of Van's Aircraft big-time on Monday, culminating in a two-hour session at Theater in the Woods (starting at 7:00 pm - plenty of time for the Beer Bust and the show!). As part of that event, they want to have a background slide show of RV pictures - flying planes, planes on the ground, building pictures, and pictures of "RV-ers". So this is your chance to see your picture up on the big screen at theater in the woods!!

So scroll through your build and flying pictures and send a couple (or a hundred!) to "chenry@eaa.org" (not me, not here on VAF, not as a PM - a real email with attachments to Chris Henry...) as soon as you can! Let's crash the EAA mail server if we can!

And then - come to Theater in the Woods and listen to stories from Van, Rian, Greg, and some flyers/builders. It should be a great evening.

Paul

 

Bent fuel line, cause for concern? ...again Wingnut

Hello,

Noticed the right side fuel line in the cockpit was a bit crimped coming out of its fitting. Wondering if this is a cause for concern/needing to be fixed? 9sorry for the poor photo)

Thanks all.

 

20-25psi oil pressure drop during flight

I'll try to provide enough information, but not be too wordy about this very strange problem I've been experiencing.

At start up, I'm getting 79psi for oil pressure. By the time I take off and about 10 minutes into the flight, the pressure drops to about 76-77psi. (I'm thinking this is probably ok as the oil warms up, the viscosity changes and pressure drops). A few more minutes into the flight and it drops to about 74-75psi. As soon as I start doing aerobatics, it drops into the mid to high 60's. Negative Gs drop it much more quickly. Going back to positive G regains some of the lost pressure, but not much. Hard positive Gs also reduce pressure a lot. For example a hard 5G pull to a 45 upline or vertical upline will drop my pressure by about 5psi immediately. If I stop doing aerobatics, and fly level for a few minutes, the pressures come back up by a few psi, but never get back into the 70's. At it's lowest point, it's showing about 54psi (my alarm goes off at 55psi). If I pull the throttle way back (to about 2100rpm), point the nose slightly down, I'll regain about 2psi. Level flying back to the airport and the pressures will very slowly get back up to the high 60s/ low 70s by the time I'm turning final. Back on the ground, I'm back up to about 73psi. On other flights, it never even gets back into the 70's.

But I don't need to do aerobatics for the oil pressure to drop. Even "hard flying" (pulling 3G-4G turns, hard pull to 45 upline, hard push to 45 downline, etc.), or aggressive climb will cause pressure to drop. And yesterday in 100 degree heat and fully loaded with fuel, a passenger, full smoke tank, and about 8lbs of stuff from Aircraft Spruce in the back, I didn't do any aerobatics at all, but the pressure dropped into the high 50's by the time I climbed out to 3000ft.

What is going on?? I have the Raven full inverted oil system, inverted fuel, fuel injection, GRT EIS for engine monitoring.

 

Canopy locked indicator light

Please excuse me if this has already been covered in the Forum. I recently purchased a factory built RV-12. I've flying since 1978, but I'm not immune to mistakes. With the unseasonably hot, humid weather in Georgia this spring I've been taxiing with the canopy about 2" open, resting on the closed latch. An instructor friend of mine recently commented that taking off with a canopy unlatched is the primary cause of fatalities in an RV 12 and suggested that if I plan to keep doing this I should invest in adding a canopy lock indicator light. I think that's a great idea. Can any of you tell me if there is a system designed to be used with an RV 12, and where can I purchase it?

 

Torque for oil cooler lines

Q: Does anyone know the recommended torque for the 3/8 npt inlets to an oil cooler?

A: Refer to the builders construction manual. Because some of the fittings have a specific 'clocking', an actual torque isnt achieveble. So, generally, snug then 1.5 to 2 turns more WITH THREAD SEALANT, being aware of any necessary clocking.

 

 

6/22/2022.  Issue #5,596
  Bowl full of screws can only mean it's annual time!  After not too much time the heat decided it was time for me to find an air conditioner.  Little bit here and there this round...
  Of note:  My late father's Snap-On lineman's pliers far right.  Decades of patina.  I love any opportunity to use them.
   Contract pilot resume  

 

Help Dave w/his Article

"Share your VAF experience.  For part of a magazine article I am writing I'd like to hear some compelling stories about how the Van's Air Force site has helped you: a: connect you to the Van's community at large; and/or b: helped you or motivated you in your RV building process."

 

Wire Mgt ...Hwood PIREP

 

Second Fly In ...goatflieg

I've been so busy making videos I almost forgot to share this. Father's Day was a good one for me; got up early and was airborne at sunrise to attend the EAA Chapter 113 Father's Day pancake breakfast at 1D2. I've waited to attend this one in an airplane for years.

 

Looking for someone in N. TX receiving an empennage soon

Hi,

I've got to redo the rear spar on my HS....it's a $60 part but due to size, it's $420-$650 to ship! Is anybody in the N. TX area expecting an empennage shipment soon that would be willing to allow my VERY light rear spar to be included in their shipment???

Thanks for considering!

Rich Grue

 

Mothership First Flights Reported





 

RE: Ducati Regulator...mwtucker PIREP

Attached is the wiring diagram from the Rotax 912 (carbureted versions) installation manual (section 24). There is provision for adding a warning indicator. To use this feature, a 12-volt indicator (bulb or LED) would be connected between the "L" terminal of the regulator and the "C" (+12V) terminal. If using an LED, the anode must be connected to the "C" terminal and the cathode connected to the "L" terminal (possibly through an external dropping resistor, see caveat below). When an error condition occurs, the regulator connects the "L" terminal to ground, causing current to flow from the "C" terminal through the indicator to ground. NOTE: There is a current limit in the indicator circuit. The manual says a 12V/3W indicator can be connected. That would mean that 250mA would flow if a 12V, 3W indicator was connected. If you use an LED make sure the LED is 12-volts (has a built-in current limiting resistor) or you will need to add a resistor to limit the current to 250mA max.

 

 

6/21/2022.  Issue #5,595
  Yeah, the tire has a leak.  Started the annual by de-cowling and removing panels.  Added the tire to the list <g>.  Getting her pretty for OSH.
   Contract pilot resume  

 

More from the Weekend



 

-3B Status Report ...David Paule

Before I can do any of the engine stuff, I've got to get the cowl into shape. You might remember that the cowl cheek extensions were pending. I received the gray fiberglass RV-4 extensions. And since the RV-4 cowl is longer than the RV-3's is, the RV-4 cowl tapers closer to the fuselage at the aft end. The extensions are therefore not as high. This led to a decision needed, between the three approaches to fixing this.

I could position the extensions aft far enough that the shape would extend between the aft end of the cowl and the front of the extension, more or less a flat wrap. Here's how that fits:  -->

 

Smooth Operator ...Taltruda on Fiberglass Fairings

Look how nice it looks when you make your own fairings and hardly use any screws at all! The more screws you use, the more puckering you get between screws.

 

Wings 98% done...nohoflyer

My solution for securing the aileron hinge pin.

 

 

6/20/2022.  Issue #5,594
  Hope you had a nice RV weekend.  Imma look into that leak in my right tire starting Monday....usual MX cycle of life ;^).
   Contract pilot resume  

 

My RV Weekend ...6/18-6/19.




 

Seaside, OR (56S) fly-in Sunday June 26

[ed. Added to the VAF Calendar.  v/r,dr]

All pilots and especially RV-ers are invited to the Seaside OR BBQ Fly-In this coming Sunday June 26.
We'll have coffee and donuts for early arrivals, then BBQ burgers and dogs etc. from Noon-2pm. Nothing fancy, just good flying and friends at a nice coastal airport.  The fly-in is in conjunction with the EAA chapter 105's annual Poker run and this will be one of the stops, but anyone is welcome whether they're doing that or not.  We've partnered with some local hotels who are offering discounts to fly-in visitors that weekend as well.
Details at seasideairport.org/fly-in
(please read, especially the safety info).
Hoping to see lots of RVers there!

 

Compression Ration Update ...UrbanM

Thanks for all the responses! Just into the initial teardown stages and found the intake valve keeper to be the culprit. No idea what caused this. The valve was in 3 pieces in the carb and intake. The other 3 cylinders look good.
I've contacted one recently retired DAR and one current DAR and they both said changing the C/R is not a major change. The pistons appear after market with some numbering but no manufacture name. Right now I'm planning 8.5 to 1 stock pistons for 160HP. The data plate says 175HP but who knows how that was determined. So...if we take 2-4 percent per point of C/R a minus .7 we get 1.4 to 2.8% decrease. Using the (Unsubstantiated) 175 @ 2700 per the data plate the most HP I would loose could be 4.9. I am limited to 2600RPM due to the prop so I doubt it is even that much.
I have been offered a Catto prop recently which would bring the PRM back to 2700. The plane currently makes the Vans cruise numbers with the Metal Sensenich but it likes runway.

 

Phase 1 Testing: Max Gross?

Operating Limits show need for testing speeds and specifies weight at that testing.
Q: Is it a requirement to test the aircraft at maximum gross weight and at the max forward and aft CG limits the kit manufacturer has designed for.

A: (Mel) YES. If you want to operate to those limits. There should be a paragraph within your phase II operating limitations that states:

"The pilot in command must not perform any maneuvers that have not been flight-tested or operate the aircraft outside the weight, airspeeds, and center of gravity limits tested. (51)"

 

Dynon interface modules installation pics ...jcarne input

I use hinged trays that go from main panel to subpanel. Can put a lot of stuff on them. ADAHRS modules are in the back of the plane on their own shelf.

 

Broken Cowling Piano Hinge ...Jim Stricker update

A follow-up to post #1... Hinge was replaced and "smoke" pattern from loose hinge loops was noticed on right side of lower cowling. My friend cleaned both halves of the piano hinge with brake cleaner and then used a toothpick to smear some clear GE silicone inside the hinge loops. He let the silicone dry and they reassembled. Hinge pin was a little hard to insert on initial reassemble but result is a clean cowling with no "smoke" trail. Only about 5 hours flying time but results look promising...

 

Mike's RV10 build

Yesterday was empennage inventory day. I found a small dent in a side skin, maybe nickel size, not very deep. It appears to have been caused by a forklift. The crate damage wasn't obvious from the outside. My thought is it's not an issue, it'll get filled with body filler at paint?

 

 

6/17/2022.  Issue #5,593
  Had a three hour hole in the schedule Thursday so I went out to the airport for the first time in 11 days to fly the RV.  Almost a flat tire while doing the preflight <sad face>.  Aired it up and monitoring - no RV flight and will check on it over the weekend.  Got a reflective pic before getting on the threadmill.  A real scorcher here today - felt good to at least see real airplanes.  Crazy sim busy...many emails to answer.
  Wishing you and yours a happy, safe and RV-filled weekend with no leaks.
   Contract pilot resume  
 

 

Another RV12 Takes to the skies.

Today at Gamston, England. Bob Dawson's new RV12. Well done Bob on a good build. Re pitching prop tomorrow, otherwise all good.

 

2022 Oshkosh RV Social

Monday July 25th
1366 WEST WAUKAU AVENUE
Starts When The Airshow Ends (actually, earlier this year, see below)
Ends When The Kegs Run Dry (or about 10PM)

Just got back from the Great Western Adventure. The Fairy was waiting on the front porch, and immediately accused me of neglecting my duties...you know, like the old sot is herself real reliable....

Anyway, yes, it's on, same place as last year, same time...Monday evening, first official show day, in the backyard of the second house just outside the Waukau Ave EAA gate. We'll open the taps a bit earlier this year, like 4 o'clock, so those who wish may develop a celebratory attitude prior to attending a Vans 50th Anniversary forum over at the Theater in the Woods. I think it's scheduled for 7PM, perhaps 7:30; check your schedule. If you attend, do return to finish the kegs. The Fairy hates to waste beer.  -->

 

Wheel Cover ...flyboy143 asks

Where is the missing 1/2 inch?

 

Milestone: Weighed ...Foghorn

1096 lbs
76.88 CG

Still need wheel pants and paint. The red on the cowling is 2080 wrap. It's a failed project. The engine heat causes it to bubble. Wingtip wrap is looking good.

 

5702-75-060 washer ...-4

My rv4 plans call out 5702-75-060 washers next to the spherical rod end bearings on the elevator pushrods. I don't see these on the Spruce sight. I can't find anything on google that tells me anything special about them. Are they just steel washers with non standard thicknesses? My kit is pre 1990 and it has passed through other owners so I have no nice organized hardware kit. Can I substitute AN washers if I have a good fit?

 

-3B 5th Point Pickup Point ...David Paule PIREP

I had no idea what angle the strap would make to the mount. But I did have a length of honking big piano hinge. This was taken before I added rivets to those empty holes.

 

Garmin GTX35R ADS-b setup

If I install and have calibrated the GAE12 encoder, do these connections look proper for ADS-b data being sent to the transponder. Without the GAE we are not seeing any altitude data on FlightAware, etc.

 

 

6/16/2022.  Issue #5,592
   Contract pilot resume  
 

From Last Weekend ...in the latest 'What did you do' thread

First trip with the little woman to see the in-laws down in Toulouse. Just under 2 hours each way, and picked up a nice tailwind on the way down.

 

CHEAP cleco caps.

Okay... so I drank the koolaid on cleco caps. Unfortunately they are A: My preferred vendor has them no longer available, and B: the others are almost half the cost of a cleco itself... There had to be a way. Here it is.

McMaster.com part number: 9753K16 $4.33 for 100 caps as of this post.
Amazon leather punch ASIN: B07D28DBC6 $6.63

How to make:


 

Houston area monthly lunch (June 2022)

Hey everybody - it's that time again. Let's keep it simple this time and just head up to Hooks for burgers.

When: Saturday, 6-18, 11:30 AM
Where: Aviator's Grill at Hooks airport (KDWH)

I probably won't make it this time - my parents are going to be visiting, so I'll be doing stuff with them. But who knows, maybe they'll want to go have lunch with a bunch of weird airplane people...

 

Elevator skin dented and torn

Removed the horizontal stabilizer to move to the hangar and wouldn't you know that same day I dropped a drywall paddle mixer from 6 feet. Already have an email into Vans support but looking for other options as to a fix.

 

Fuses vs ANL Current Limiter ...johnbright PIREP

Don't confuse a fuse with an ANL current limiter. A current limiter takes much more energy to blow and can be sized the same as alternator output capability.

These are the notes I put on my schematic re alternator B lead fuse/current limiter/fuselink:
 

  • Littelfuse MIDI (or, alternatively, Bussmann AMI, physically interchangeable with and sized the same as a MIDI) fuses are specified on this schematic for the alternator B leads versus legacy Bussmann ANL current limiters because they are physically smaller; 30 mm vs 61 mm bolt center to center.
     
  • Bussmann ANL current limiters with the same rating as the alternator could be used but Littelfuse MIDI fuses of a higher rating are chosen. It is assumed the alternator is capable of 120% of its rated output, this is divided first by 0.75 (nuisance blowing factor per Littelfuse "Fuseology" document) and then by 0.95 (temperature re-rating factor per Littelfuse MIDI fuse data sheet, a conservatively high 170F firewall temperature is assumed).
     
  • Main alternator: (60 * 1.2) / (0.75 * 0.95) = 101A, close enough to 100 to choose a 100A MIDI.
     
  • Vacuum pad alternator: (35 * 1.2) / (0.75 * 0.95) = 59A, a 60A MIDI is chosen.
     
  • MANLs aka Mini ANLs (which are not ANL current limiters but rather fuses similar to Littelfuse MIDIs) are physically interchangeable with Littelfuse MIDIs but are not specified on this schematic because manufacturers are unknown although Bob Nuckolls says MANLs such as KnuKonceptz are OK. If used, MANLs should be sized like Littelfuse MIDI fuses.
     
  • Alternate for alternator B leads is FLW (fuse link wire) 6" long and 4 awg smaller that the B lead, PICO brand is common; available from 10 to 20 awg.
     
  • FLW is a slightly cleaner installation; Bussmann ANL current limiters, and especially Littelfuse MIDI fuses, open with less energy.

    You heard it from some guy on the internet.

 

Notches ...-14

Anyone know what these notches are for?

 

RV-10 Fabricated an Aileron-Elevator gust lock ...Storch

Completed during the annual.

It needed to be safe with absolutely no possibility of causing a control jam. Additionally I wanted it to be very easy to operate and light weight. It weighs less than a pound.

Slide the tongue forward and put the locking pin in place when on the ground. Place the locking pin in the co-pilot seat back when not using.

BTW- the locking pin is an old VHF antennae, cut and bent to specs. Welded a washer to attach the lanyard to it.


Used material that was lying around.

This is a prototype, proof of concept. Hence no paint and lots of extra holes. Simple, free $$ and easy to build.
It works well.

 

RV-10- Fabricated a Rudder gust lock ...Storch

We've all seen tons of rudder gust locks, here's mine completed during the annual.

Considerations:
It had to be effective, safe (difficult to forget to remove prior to flight),light and very convenient to use.

Fabrication:
I measured the O.D. of the rudder pedal arm verticals post, then found a piece of 4130 tubing whose I.D. was slightly larger. I then used a hand grinder to split it down the middle (that was the goal anyway), then bent a piece of 3/16 mild steel into a 90 and welded it to the tubing half. I attached them to the rudder arm with a single adel clamp.
The red arms are from an old street sign we had laying around. You need these arms to be fairly stiff.
I then drill a hole in the tunnel cover and mounted an AN bolt with with a cotter key hole in it.
The red arms in the picture were the prototypes, the final ones are similar but a little cleaner.

Construction tips:
Place an external rudder gust lock in place to center the rudder. Then ensure you push each rudder pedal firmly forward. You will then see where the ruder pedals will be when locked. I then eyeballed that the arms would need to be about a foot long.
I then mounted my bolt in the tunnel.
I then fabricated my arms, drilled a hole on one end to go over the 3/16 90.
I then swung the other end of the arm over the bolt in the tunnel, kinda scraped it on the bolt as an indication where to drill the hole for that end.
A not of caution, ensure the rudder pedals are firmly pushed forward before you mark your drill hole on the arm end that will go on the tunnel bolt.
Why? Because the rudder cables have no springs and if the pedals are not pushed firmly forward, the cables will have slack and the rudder will continue to move a little, even with the gust lock installed. Yes, I found this out the hard way.
When not in use the locks go in the co-pilot seat back. Weighs less than a pound.
None of this is rocket science or Mikey Patey quality. But it'll do for now.

 

 

6/15/2022.  Issue #5,591
   Contract pilot resume  
 

My RV-10's First Flight ...Kyle Boatright

Made the first flight of the RV-10 this evening in boiling summer heat. The highest CHT got up to 437 on initial climb, but after I accelerated to 130 knots, it came down below 400. All 6 cylinders stayed there for the remainder of the flight, with #'s 4 and 6 being ~395 and the others up to 40F less. Oil temperatures, oil pressures, etc. were all happy.

The airplane flew straight and true with no aerodynamic squawks at all. One thing I was happy about (given that it was over 90F at the time of the flight), was the performance of the vents in the overhead console. They really blow a lot of fresh air, which was very welcome. Despite not having flown a "trike" more than about 3 hours in the last 20 years and only having 4-5 hours of fuel injected or constant speed time <ever>, I didn't manage to mismanage either system, so that was a good thing. The landing came off well, with the nosewheel right on the centerline with touchdown pretty much where I'd planned.

I'd expected to do the first flight yesterday, but found that the starter ring gear was rubbing on an inside corner of the upper air inlet/ramp, so I cut the offending material off and glassed in a recess before work this morning. It was hot enough here that the epoxy had hardened by lunchtime when I re-cowled the airplane.

It has been a couple of years since I flew a -10, and I remembered it being heavy on the controls compared to the -6. Yep, mine's heavy on the controls compared to the -6 too. Different missions, but wow, the 2 seater requires a lot less "oomph" to make it do what you want

 

From This Past Weekend's 'What did you do' thread ...Chris Pratt -8

I always love to take people for their first RV ride, and it's even better when it's their first ride in a light aircraft.

I had the pleasure of introducing Thomas (pics below) for his first flight in a light aircraft. He's 18 years old and trying to figure out what to do for a career. So, Thomas - "here's your sign."  -->

 

RV-6 Hangar Spot at my Home Field

Greg Blilly has room for a single RV-6 in his hangar at 52F in N.TX (hangar location HERE).  This is in hangar #1 on the east side of runway (midfield).  Water, electricity and air.  $375/mo. 
(817) 798.9627 if interested. 

 

Standing on the shoulders of others

Boundary Conditions:
Electrically dependent aircraft
EFII (came with Titan Engine)
Monkworkz Back-up gen

This is my proposed single-line functional diagram; no connection points, wire sizes, etc. Only power distribution architecture.

I've bugged a lot of people and I appreciate all of their help. If anyone sees any discrepancies, let me know. I was always a believer but now I've been fully baptized in the Froehlich church of redundancy and symmetry. This is 99.99x% his knowledge and experience. I've stated before, this or similar architecture is appropriate to more aircraft than is initially obvious; even legacy Fuel and Ign aircraft. I believe the redundancy pay for itself in relatively short order by not purchasing dedicated expensive device back-up batteries. Anyway, have at it. Constructive advice would be appreciated.

 

Butt Gets Upgrade

Coming up on twenty years now of enjoyment with our family RV-6.  The next steps of slowly loving up the inside continue.  Classic Aero Designs 'Aviators' in dark grey should hold our sweet patooties in good steed for the next twenty.  Drooling over these for years and looking forward to the 10 hours roundtrip to OSH as a test.

Arrived yesterday, and they are everything I was hoping they'd be.  Full size pic HERE.

I went with 'Horizontal Strip' layout.....and had to look up the spelling of patootie.


 

Boone Iowa RV Day (KBNW)

Planning to go again this year. Hopefully the forecast holds, but might be a warm one.

 

 

6/14/2022.  Issue #5,590
  A really nice sprinkling of technical and motivation in today's edition.  When they come together like this I really smile - thanks again to all who make this place work.
   Contract pilot resume  
 

From the 'My RV Weekend' Thread ...N546RV milestone

My fuselage finally grew legs and got rolled out into the fresh air for all the airport neighbors to appreciate.

 

Kettle Moraine Youth Aviation build program

KMYA, Inc, a non-profit we formed two years ago just completed our first RV12 with local HS students! FAA issue our Airworthiness Certificate last week. We're getting huge local support and are expanding to a second HS this fall. We have 12 mentors and have thoroughly enjoyed the process. We have two students enrolled at Emory-Riddle AZ just in this last two years. If anyone is interested in how we got things going here in Hartford WI, I'd be happy to discuss.

For those programs already having completed projects, is it true we can get a 10% rebate on the cost of the kit once the plane is completed? We've ordered the second plane already. Who should I speak to at Van's

 

Breather Pipe Options ...one PIREP

Try premolded silicone 90* hose. Or, we did this for a client. Convoluted teflon, impervious to oil, and has pretty good flexibility. He wanted just enough to connect to his aluminum tube. 3/4 ID, so he had to expand the aluminum tube on the hose end to fit tight, then clamp. Think he wrapped it with firesleeve tape, ot maybe took a piece of 3/4 OD, .049 wall aluminum tube and forced it over the breather tube to "enlarge" the end to fit the hose.

Bullet proof, and oil doesnt affect it.

 

Torque Bulkhead Bar Assy bolts

My technical counsellor recommended that I should torque all bolts at the end of the build given that there is a "shelf life" of the calibration of the wrenches. This made sense since one needs to be able to retorque the bolts later.

Now I have had my wrenches calibrated even if not done, but some of the bolts are already hard to reach.

Specifically the outer bolts on F-01405B Bulkhead Bar Assembly (first appearing on page 25-02) is hard to reach after the baggage floor is installed.

Has anyone figured out a way to reach the nut on the backside of the bulkhead?

 

Navy76's DIY Tow Bar

If you can weld you might consider building your own. I think the materials cost me about $30-$40. I put it together in an afternoon. It's not super heavy duty but so far it works fine.


 

Nose wheel fairing induced yaw?

Just started flying my new RV-10 and had a very disconcerting experience today. First flight was excellent and as I was in engine break in and first flight mode Iflew it without the wheel pants. Everything was good with the ball perfectly centred throughout the flight. Today, after installing the wheel pants, I went up again. Everything was good on climbout and it accelerated nicely almost 15 knots faster than without the pants. I was happy because the ball stayed nicely centred and all seemed well.
About 20 minutes into the flight I hit a bit of turbulence and then after a bit of bouncing and yawing I found I needed a fair bit of left rudder to keep the ball centred. Feet off the pedals the ball was now about halfway out of centre. Throughout the rest of the flight with all power settings and airspeeds I needed left rudder to keep the ball centred.
I figured I had either lost a wheel pant or the nosewheel had somehow cocked itself off centre and induced some yaw on the airplane. After I landed all fairings were present and accounted for and if the nose had cocked off centre it would have straightened itself on landing so there was no way to know there.
Has anyone experienced this? How do you correct it? More tension on the big nut or less? How do you fix it in the air? I'm assuming some aggressive rudder to straighten the fairing out.
Or is it something other than that?

 

scsmith's Method for Attaching Flap Pushrod to Flap

While you have the flap pushrods off, whether they are bent or not, make new ones from 4130 steel tubing. Buy 5/16" tubing and run a 1/4-28 tap into the ends. The aluminum pushrods are the weakest link in the flap system by far.

But also while the flap pushrods are out, check to make sure that the threaded stud for the rod end that is affixed to the flap root rib is tight. It is really hard to get at the nut for that thing. (I made a special wrench just for that). Again, ideally, replace those rod ends with proper rod-end bearings with an AN bolt and an AN970 washer to keep the rod end captive. You will need a couple of washers or a spacer to position the rod-end bearing out from the root rib of the flap the right distance, matching the height of the stud assembly that was removed.

Next on the list is to check to see if the flap is twisted. Since it is driven by the root end, there is a lot of torsional load through the flap, and that load increases as velocity squared. If it was twisted, it might be evident from diagonal skin wrinkles on either the upper or lower flap skin, or both.

Next after that are the piano hinge eyelets, near the ends of the flap. Look for any elongation of the holes, or distorted loops of the hinge.

 

CHT adapter

I have a XP360 engine that startedits life as a Mattituck assembled engine with an Aerosance Fadec.

To make a long story short, I decided to convert this engine to a conventional Mags/Carb system, so I removed and sold all the FADEC items and installed 2 slick mags and a MA-4-5 Carb.

Now,while I was installing the Garmin engine sensors package, I noticed that the there seems to be an adapter attached to the CHT probe location (see attached pictures).

Looking at my FADEC pictures, I have noticed that the CHT probe that came with the system had a bayonet turn and lock type attachment and it was not threaded directly to the engine.

I imagine that this adapter is just something threaded to the cylinder head, but I'd like to confirm if someone has ever seen this type of adapter attached to the head and if there is any special procedure to remove it.

 

Rudder counterbalance torqueing

I was a bit overzealous torqueing the rudder counterbalance screws, which caused nutplate strip to bend a bit. The torque value was relatively low, less than 20-25 lbf*in that should be used for #10 bolts (I assume screw of the same size should be similar to the bolt?).

As I understand, the counterbalance has two counterbores due to the old method of attachment which used nuts.

What do you think? While everything is still open, I can take the nutplate strip out, straighten it and put some aluminum bushings under it. Or I can just keep it like that. The counterbalance is also attached with some amount of T-88 epoxy under it, so I don't think it should ever move.

 

Sulfur Creek, ID ...Mconner7 pic

FD74, gravel strip in Idaho. They serve breakfast, the menu said, Breakfast, yes $25, no $10.

 

 

6/13/2022.  Issue #5,589.
  Spent the weekend at the part time sim side gig being shaken and stirred for the 306th time - 10 days in a row here when this round ends.  Scratchin' out a livin'. ;^)   I occasionally wonder if the RV even remembers me.  Someday I'm going to need to go missed in it and I'll probably end up blurting out the single engine go around Phenom call outs. ;^)
  Hope you had a happy, safe and RV-filled weekend.
   Contract pilot resume  
 

What did you do with your RV this weekend? (6/11-12/2022)



 

2000 hours ...Roy Thoma

N174RT crossed 2000 Hobbs hours on Sunday. 11 years and a handful of days after her first flight.

A few highlights from the 11 years:

GREAT FRIENDS that are like family that we have made through the RV community.

Flying across the country ON OUR SCHEDULE from Hillsboro, OR to Dover DE to see 1st grandchild when she was 5 days old. From coast to coast in 1.5 days.

Flying to Homestead FL, joining 8 other planes (7 RVs) and flying to St Kitts, Grenada, and St. Croix with Rosie's group in 2017.

Enabling commuting between Hillsboro OR and S.V. Tranquility on Orcas Island, WA, 2 hours door to boat instead of 8+ hours by car and ferry.

Multiple trips to Oshkosh.

Five trips to the Pettit Jean fly in, each time recognized as flying the farthest distance.

 

First Flights Reported on the Mothership




 

Fuselage boo boo advice ...didja

I just realized that I accidentally riveted one too many rivets in the tailcone bottom to side skin holes . I have joined the fuse and tailcone. I went to rivet the fuse bottom skin to the tailcone/side skin corner hole and realized it was already riveted between the tailcone bottom skin and tailcone side skin. I have no way of undoing the existing rivet withou completely drilling out every rivet to separate the fuse from the tailcone.

The alternative that I can think of is to drill through the existing rivet and rivet all three skins. The fuse bottom skin is dimpled as it was supposed to be flush mounted. Not sure if I should flatten the dimpled hole and rivet with a 4-4 rivet instead of a 3-3.5 rivet, or try a pop rivet...

Looking for advice.

 

FIFI's PIC Owns/Flies an RV-8 (and one of the SIC's flies an RV-6 (Matt))

Came across this video over the weekend.  That's Bill Goeken as PIC in a reposition flight in FIFI not too long ago.  If you have 40 minutes or so to kill and want to ride along with all the B-29 callouts in real time, you're going to enjoy this video.

Bill got me checked out in the Caravan C208 I flew a few years back (and later the PC-12).  He's had an RV as long as I've known him. 

He's a good guy and I'm certain he would roll his eyes if he finds out I put this video here.

Related:
https://www.airpowersquadron.org/

 

New RV12 Jackpoint

Finally came up with Jackpoints for the RV12. Available soon.  Check with Flyboy Accessories

 

Dimple without a hole...

Hi, all.

I'm a couple of months into my RV-14A empennage build and am working on the rudder. I was dimpling one of the skins today with my DRDT-2 and while I was moving between holes in the trailing edge the handle came down on it's own and made an indentation on the skin. I didn't touch the handle or put any pressure on it, so the dent was just from the handle closing on it's own.

Pics attached. Again, this is in the trailing edge. I've sent pics to Van's builder support but figured I'd also ask the hive mind (and share Van's answer when I get it). Build on? The dimple is smooth and even and there was no skin penetration. It doesn't look like there are any hard creases in the dimple. Since this is in the trailing edge and will be backed by the extrusion and I don't think this part of the skin is going to see significant stresses, I figure I'm OK to continue.

I was considering trying to flatten the skin back out- gently. Either by very gently applying the dimple dies partially in the opposite direction, or by using a flat set of padded duckbill pliers as a sort of seamer to flatten it. Or both...

 

My first RV-8 flight video ...goatflieg

I posted the first (public) RV-8 flying video

 

Compression Ratio

Had an issue come up during engine runup that is going to cause me to have to replace a cylinder. I have an experimental version of a 0-320 E2D wide deck with 9.2 C/R. Due to prior history I am considering a top overhaul on the other 3 and while I am at it I may consider changing the compression ratio back to a more stock 8.5. The engine data plate shows 9.2 so would I need to change this? Would it be considered a major change or alteration? If anyone has been through this tell me what you think.

So here is the back story; I purchased the plane from from the builder who had an experimental 320 E2D built from parts (And with a Data Plate) by a reputable shop (Whose name I won't mention). At around a hundred hours an intake valve stuck open which bent the pushrod and resulted in a landing at the nearest airport. Cylinder assembly replaced and then at the next condition inspection low compression on another cylinder caused by the ring gaps being all lined up. That cylinder was replaced. I bought the plane about 200 hours later and figured the engine issues were behind me. Compressions were excellent, oil usage was 1 qt per 25 hours and the oil analysis and filter inspection were well within limits at every change. At 385 hours an intake valve on another cylinder broke near the top of the stem and decided to exit the engine by busting a hole in the top of the cylinder.

The paperwork shows all new Lycoming valves were used and I have stacks of yellow tags for all the parts that were not new. I am at a loss to understand how a clean well built engine can have these issues. I spoke with the shop in Alamosa Co and they said they have never heard of a stuck intake valve (Plenty of exhaust valves of course). So my options are replace the cylinder assembly with the big viewing port in the top, or top all 4 cylinders to make sure I have fresh quality stuff, or lastly, the local engine shop can do an IRAN for 6250. plus parts. In the interest of protecting my sanity I may just have the shop tear the whole thing down so I can be assured it is all within spec and serviceable. I am not blaming my issues on the C/R but I am contemplating returning to stock to see if this might help.
Sorry for the long winded post. Not doing any of this to be a Karen or throw a shop under the bus. If anyone else has had problems with a low time engine you are not alone.

This is the exterior obviously. The borescope pics are the usual hammered piston and cylinder stuff. I am grateful this happened on the ground and that it went out of the top of the cylinder and not through the top of the piston where it would have done more damage.
Kinda new to piston engine aircraft ownership. I've had gliders for the past 20 years and only about 2300 hours of piston time and except for a stuck exaust valve on an 0-360 power Scout I've never had any issues. I figured I would buy a plane with a well documented engine and stay within Lycoming limitations and careful maintenance I would be OK. So far during disassembly there is nothing to indicate any corners were cut.

 

 

6/10/2022.  Issue #5,588.
  Wishing you and yours a happy, safe and RV-filled weekend.
   Contract pilot resume  
 


Sophia after a ride in the family
RV-6 last Saturday.  Infectious smile!  dr

 

UV Dye for Tank Testing ...Freemasm

...I tested with ethanol free car gas and UV dye; before and after tank back plate installation. This approach isn't for everybody. It only proves that on those days, there's no leaks.

 

Attaching HS0006 to Spar ...-7

Q:
This HS is going to be the death of me.

I'm trying to figure out how to attach forward rib HS0006 to the forward spar for an RV7A. I notched the ribs per the plans and marked a centerline on the aft flange. But the directions tell me to look at drawing D-D and figure out where to mark the holes to attach to the spar. This makes no sense to me because how do you know where the rib should be positioned to properly lay out the holes? I've been researching it and it seems that others have clecoed on the skin, put the rib in place and then marked the holes.

Am I missing something? Any advice is very much appreciated!!!

A:
Section D-D shows you the vertical spacing of the rivet holes. For horizontal positioning, I clecoed the skin onto the substructure and clamped HS-00006 in place on the skin for drilling.

 

TS Flightlines Site Update ...Tom

I just wanted to let everyone know that Steve has worked VERY hard on upgrading our webstite, aircraftspecialtyflightlines.com. Its a combination of my old site, tsflightlines, and his old site aircraft specialty. It was a convienent place for us to use since I didnt know anything about my site anyway, other than pics. Suzanne built mine--well you know the story.

If you go to tsflightlines.com, or asflightlines.com, it will redirect you to our combined site. LOTS of new data, and improved (and hopefully easy) ordering. Our current install guides are also on the pages. For those of you that know what hose you want, I wanted to make you aware of an easy self ordering feature that I'm told is great. If you know what you want, go HERE, and use the drop down boxes to pic and choose. Yes a variety of hose styles, from plain braid, normal firesleeve, and our integral firesleeve for most sizes.
WE also have the some AN adapters on the site, as well as some CNC machined parts like our flow transducer bracket kits. Yes, we are adding to it all the time.

Steve and I are still available via email and phone to help, but sometimes little things get in the way (hospital stays ) and we dont want to hold you up. So if you havent seen the new and improved Aircraft Specialty Flightlines site, take a few minutes and have a look. It also has a 'how we do it" section on hose, and rigid tube fabrication, and panel fabrication, just to name a few.

Enjoy!

Tom and Steve
__________________
Tom Swearengen, TS Flightlines LLC, AS Flightlines

 

Q on Remote Digital Magnetometer Install ...Scott Hersah

I have a question about what GRT told you about mounting the magnetometer "flat on its bottom". What side is the bottom? This is what the install manual says:

4.2 Remote Digital Magnetometer Installation
The remote magnetometer must be placed in an area of the airplane with little or no electromagnetic interference. The cable is 20' long and designed to reach out to the wingtip, which is the ideal location for most airplanes. The magnetometer is marked with an arrow pointing in the direction of flight. Mount it with the arrow pointing forward, parallel to the centerline of the airplane. There is not a designated "top" of the magnetometer, so it can be turned on its side for easier mounting. The side of a wing tip rib is a simple place to put it. The arrow on the magnetometer should be parallel with the centerline of the airplane for yaw. Pitch attitude is not critical as long as it is within 60* nose up or nose down.


The drawing right below the above description looks like it is mounted flat on the outboard wingtip rib. That's how I mounted mine on my RV6 (see below). I haven't finished building yet, so I don't know how it will work. I'm wondering if I need to re-orient mine.

 

How to test DSUB connectors and harnesses

Q:
I'd like to test some DSUB connectors and harnesses that are installed in the aircraft, for correct polarity and continuity, before plugging into the expensive EFIS and EMS boxes. This is for a Dynon system with DB37, DB25 and DB9 connectors. The radio will use DB15 connectors. It's fiddly to use a multimeter probe on the Dsub pins, so I'm thinking there must be a better way to get access e.g. by using a breakout plug or board. Before buying some bare plugs and warming the soldering iron I'd like to know what other builders might have done?

A:
Breakout Boards
Another trick is use a commercial D sub breakout board. The screw terminals are easy to probe and identify. They are fairly available. If you need to get to a hard to get to connector you can use a commercial cable between the connector and the breakout board.

 

Over voltage

I purchased an already built rv-4. I had some electronic noise issues and replaced the alternator when it tested bad.

After start when I engage the alternator switch the voltage reads just about what it should. A little over 14v at 1000 rpm.

However at higher or cruise setting the voltage seems to fluctuate and at times bumps up to a little over 15 volts.

It's an external regulator (C-8010-1) and not a very complex circuit. Would the fluctuating voltage that runs high typically be the regulator going bad? Seems like that would be the most likely culprit but I thought I would ask as it's not in a very convenient place for removal

 

 

6/9/2022.  Issue #5,587.
   Contract pilot resume  
 

Freemasm's DIY Shop Gear ...creative!


 

Almost Lost an Eye PIREP ...rv8bldr

I almost lost an eye to the tail mounted antennas on my Maule. During my annual I walked around the rudder and bent down all in one motion to get at the inspection cover and the antenna hit me in the upper left part of my mouth, ran up my cheek, and into the bottom of my left eye socket. Thankfully, on the way up it gathered some extra skin so no sharp edges.

No eye damage or scars, but the area from my tooth up towards my eye is numb, just like when you go to the dentist. And this happened 2.5 years ago.

I now put a fluorescent tennis ball on each antenna when I land. And my new project has the VOR antenna mounted under the tail

[ed. Mark, rolling around on the crawler wiping off the underside of my -6 years ago I poked myself in the head with the VOR antennae.  It really drove the point home how easy complacency in the shop can lead to injury.  I like your tennis ball routine. v/r,dr]

 

Courtesy Cars & Food List Updated

...couple of additions in TN and one in KY.

 

Taxi Tests ...Joe Dallas -12

N7944A Phase One.  N7944A just passed the DAR inspection and is now starting phase one flight testing.

We started our phase one testing yesterday All went well

 

"Interesting" afternoon at the airport

This is an RV story because I was in the RV-9A, and it ends with an RV-12.

...

A bit of background to explain the next confusion. Hunter Army Air Field. KSVN, is about seven miles away. It shows up in the FAA databases, hence on everybody's navigation systems, as "Savannah." KSAV, the big airport in Savannah, is named "Savannah/Hilton Head International." It shows up in the Leidos briefing system as "Hilton Head." Go figure. There is also a different Hilton Head airport at the north end of Hilton Head Island, KXHD.

...

Then comes an unusual call from the tower. "RV, where are you?" Oh, boy. "I'm in position to turn left base for Rwy 10, if it was open." (Gear up Bonanza on the runway). I volunteer to do a left 270 for right downwind for Rwy 19, but they have me turn right, directly onto right base for Rwy 19.

...

I'm on a half mile final when all of a sudden, out of nowhere, there's a Southwest B737 on frequency, going 150 knots on a three mile final behind me. I ask tower if the long landing is still approved. No answer.

...

An interesting day at the airport, lots of lessons to be learned by lots of people, and not just pilots. I've filed my third ASRS report about airport name confusion - filed one on the same topic last week - and maybe this one will help.

...

We did have one new arrival who is building an RV-12.

 

Mobility Ideas w/the Gear Legs On ...kiwipete PIREP

I used these. Designed for moving cars around. They moved out over the cobbles fine.

 

kentlik -7A Rebirthing Update

So I have been getting some stuff done on the plane. Not a lot of explanation just some photos.

 

 

6/8/2022.  Issue #5,586.
   Contract pilot resume  
 

Waiting for DAR in am

...video tour of things in order.

 

GRT Inter-Display Link

Q:
Is the magnetometer data shared across the GRT inter-display link?

A: Yes

A: Not sure about the inter-display link. This is how my magnetometer is wired. Haven't flown yet but it works taxiing around.

 

You'll poke your eye out kid - Taildragger

To avoid the risk of eye meets antenna (ILS/VOR/GS), I'm thinking of under the tail.

Advice, warnings, experiences, etc.. appreciated. Pics would be great and you won't need a thousand words.

(one interesting reply)
I put a R/C wheel collar on the end of each of my antennas to reduce the hazard somewhat. They are available in a variety of sizes and do not seem to affect radio operation

 

From the Weekend Thread ...Al Karpinski

A Little Pre-Summer Polish & Paint Touch-Up.

 

Raabs' RV-10 Flap Motor Retrofit Pics

Remove rivets that hold the old bracket, drill four new holes each side of tunnel, rivet in new bracket in new location, install motor. Of course, a bit of prepping and priming... Took about 3.5 hours on a not yet flying -10 that was already accessible. As previously mentioned, no big reason to change an already flying -10.

 

 

6/7/2022.  Issue #5,585.
  Excuse the early push - supplemental sim gig D slot.  RV stares longingly at me from across the city...;^).
   Contract pilot resume  
 

More From This Week's 'My RV Weekend' Thread


 

Rtlongdon's RV-12 Pedal Extensions

My wife is about 5'2" and can't reach the stock rudder/brakes.

These are 3D printed. Sorry the pics aren't great, they were for my own use when we first installed them.

Also there are two different versions in the pics posted. The one on the right pedal has a screw on clamp that was a PITA to put in place. The left one is what we use now. It has a velcro strap that holds rock solid. The other has since been converted. They fit over the existing plastic pad on the rudder portion and extend both the brake and rudder pedal surfaces proportionally.

I have plans to make a couple other simple mods to make them even quicker to remove/replace, but it hasn't been an issue. They work great and the wife is happy. Total weight for the set is about 12 ounces.

 

How to test DSUB connectors and harnesses

I'd like to test some DSUB connectors and harnesses that are installed in the aircraft, for correct polarity and continuity, before plugging into the expensive EFIS and EMS boxes. This is for a Dynon system with DB37, DB25 and DB9 connectors. The radio will use DB15 connectors. It's fiddly to use a multimeter probe on the Dsub pins, so I'm thinking there must be a better way to get access e.g. by using a breakout plug or board. Before buying some bare plugs and warming the soldering iron I'd like to know what other builders might have done?

 

Throttle cable throw help

im changing to MA-4SPA as I have mentioned in other threads,
I have an A-1550-0430 Throttle cable from aircraft spruce, it is push-pull bulkhead type cable at both ends with 3.37" stroke which worked for the previous carb geometry that I had (not same carb) and works fine firewall aft. Now with MA-4SPA with vans VA-149-320 bracket, and it seems like it has too much throw / is too long past the bulkhead nuts? it is impossible to thread on a rod end bearing and attach to the throttle arm with hardware at fully retracted (idle)it is at least 1" too long to attach to the carb.

what is the right throttle cable lengths what should I be looking to order. or maybe put another way what cable would work with the VA-149-320 bracket mounting and MA-4SPA. I'm not sure where to start with this.

 

G3 sensor for Showplanes fastback

Q:
Need direction for what type of sensor for a Showplanes fastback for the Garmin G3 "unlocked" option.
Found a thread for a magnetic sensor for the RV 10 doors.
Any thoughts or has someone set up the Showplanes fastback with the G3 unlocked option.

A:
I used a simple micro switch. Added flox to the latch rod to extend enough to contact the plunger. Works well.

 

Hank Moody,

...repeat offender who first built an RV-8, received his Airworthiness Certificate from DAR Vern Darley for his new RV-14A

 

rv8ch's Wire Coloring

I bought a lot of different colored wire in different sizes, but the number of combinations grows quickly.

In the end, I used labels at each end of mainly white wire. In my small aircraft, I have not needed to "trace" a wire or find a particular wire inside a bundle - I always start from one end or the other, which is labeled.

I don't have one, but this looks like an interesting tool:

You could make up your own color codes for whatever wire you run, and probably do a lot in place.

 

 

6/6/2022.  Issue #5,584.
   Contract pilot resume  
 

Local Kid Steals Dad's RV!

Here's a local kid who grew up around his dad's RV-7 and now is flying it solo.


Tyler Savrda just turned 17 in December and since then has acquired his PPL and his rotorcraft helicopter license. He's scheduled for his instrument check ride in a couple of weeks. In September he enters Jacksonville University's aviation program. Pretty amazing kid. While I credit his parents for most of his success, you can't discount the influence the RV has had in his development. He literally grew up while his dad, Tom, was building the -7, made numerous trips to fly-ins, including Oshkosh where his dad won the Lindy for the RV-7. You would often see him hanging out with his dad around the hangars here in Vero. On Sundays, we would have our regular breakfast flights and he was often in the right seat of dad's airplane. He flew with me countless times on the way home because he wanted to do aerobatics and his dad wasn't into that. I was impressed with his natural flying ability, and it wasn't long before I had him landing the airplane. He definitely caught the RV bug. For sure!

Tom and Tyler are currently building a -9 so that Tyler will have something to build time in. And so Tom can get his -7 back!

So this story may be about Tyler but it's also about how this wonderful airplane has molded a kid's life!

 

My RV Weekend ...folks chiming in.

RV-10 First Flight Sydney Australia



 

A good demonstration of the fabulous utility of our airplanes ...from last weekend's thread (airguy)

I left my home strip 73XS yesterday morning and flew up to KPSO Pagosa Springs Colorado for lunch, and pick up a family friend and bring her back down to KSJT San Angelo Texas for a baby shower, then I flew back home from San Angelo, in a total of 7.3 hours flight time burning 49 gallons of 93E10. My flight up to Pagosa Springs was IFR (for departure conditions) at 12,000 and the return was VFR initially at 17,500 for smooth air, later dropping to 15,500 once we got out of the mountains and mechanical turbulence was no longer a factor. It turned an 11-hour drive for her in to 3:25 by air and made the trip reasonable to come down and see family/friends for the weekend.

With my long-range tanks, I left home with full fuel (67 gallons), flew up to Pagosa Springs, then down to San Angelo, and back home again and landed with 2 hours fuel still in the tanks.

Saw some really beautiful scenery, and got a nice shot of Ruidoso NM rising up through an overcast.

 

Garmin G3x Touch panel - RV8 Options?

Looks like my AFS 4500 AHRS is toast, though it might be a simple magnetometer change. Either way, I've now decided to do a new panel in my RV8 come fall.

I'm going to go with a Garmin G3x Touch, and was wondering about options. I'm very behind the curve on all the glass gadgetry. I took 22 years off of aviation, and just came back last year, so all this new stuff is sorcery to me.

I see that I can use a 10" or 7" screen, and it looks like everything is basically a remotely mounted "module".

So I could remotely mount the radio and transponder, and eliminate them from the panel, right? They both could be controlled from the G3 screen? Any reason not to?

Will I need to keep my PS1000 Intercom?

For a GPS, I was thinking to mount an Aera 760 Touch vertically on the left. I'm open to suggestions here.

I've got a brand new Sandia 340 backup instrument I could mount right of the G3.

I'd like to get XM radio, and ADSB in/out.

I'm currently working on my IFR rating, though I don't foresee myself doing any flying in the soup in my 8 at this time. If that changes, what would I need to add to make this panel IFR certified?

Anything I'm missing here, or should add? Attached is a rough sketch of what I'm thinking, using an online panel designer.

 

Check your Brake torque plates! Are yours installed Backwards?

Keep seeing this error so thought I would let folks know that the Van's drawings don't do a very good job at showing this installation but it's pretty important.

If you take off the wheel and see this your brake torque plate is installed backwards...

 

Color coding wires: when to stop?

I'm redoing some wiring and where it's possible I'm taking the opportunity to change from white to colored wire (red/black, blue for audio, yellow for signal, etc). Some things are simple, I'm adding red or black heat shrink to the battery wires, but after that, the question is, where do you stop?

For instance, I've got 4 switches on my left panel, 3 of which have circuit breakers. So I have wires going from the power buss into CBs, from the CBs to the switch, then from the switch to the device (generator, alternator, main fuel pump), if I changed them from white -> red, instead of a mass of white wires I'd have a mass of red wires. Plus wires going from the starter switch underneath to a terminal strip, which then distributes to various other functions.

If I understand it right, until the power is used a wire is technically "hot", and should/could be coded red, then on the return from the device it would be black for ground.


Not sure if changing everything in this area from white to red is an improvement or not, or is there a point you would draw the line, like only red wires into the CBs, then white from there.


Thoughts?

 

 

6/3/2022.  Issue #5,583.
  Wishing you and yours a happy, safe and RV-filled weekend.
   Contract pilot resume  
 

Wax:  Like Finding 17 Additional HP ...DanH

Here in the south we have pollen season every spring. Every surface, including inside a hangar, tends to collect a layer of green dust. It's long been my habit, correct or not, to quit cleaning the airplane sometime after the first of the year, then give it a serious cleaning before S&F, or even into May if I'm not going to Florida. I rarely waxed.

A few weekends back I bit the bullet and got to work. First a soapy wash, a good surface scrub with rag, not a brush. Then I got out the big Milwaukee buffer and worked all the wing sections exhibiting surface buildup...you know, they faintly raspy feel from oxidation and microscopic trash adhered to the paint. Last, I waxed all the upper surfaces and sides of the wings and fuselage, plus the prop, the spinner, tail surfaces, and the landing gear legs and pants.

Tuesday I made a run up to Hensley to wrap up the beta installation of a firewall and tunnel insulation package for the RV-14, the first opportunity to check cruise speed with the fresh cleanup. Typical speed is 183~184 KTAS on a little over 9 gph at 9500. The dirty airplane (both bugs and dust) was down to 181~182. With a fresh polish and wax, it was doing 186~188.

I noticed the effect previously, but never quantified it. Frankly I was surprised...and very pleased. Not a hard core back-to-back test, but in rough numbers, it's like finding 17 additional horsepower.

Expect old 5551 to have a bit more shine in the future.

 

Avionics mounting behind F14106 Wiring Channel

Just curious on whether anyone has considered mounting any avionics on either the top of the F10405 Forward Tunnel Cover, or mounted to the forward side of the F14106 vertical wiring channel? I was thinking this could be a good location for the GAD27, and some relays (pitot relay, lights relay etc)

I was planning ahead and will likely have my circuit breakers and bus bars (power sources) on the angled 'power module' panel. Having the GAD27 and the relays close to the power source would mean not having to run 18AWG wires up to the panel switches etc - i can just run small 22 AWG for grounding (and i have a much wider choice of switches).

 

Dynon servo install

The installation of the servo motor into the bell crank seems pretty straightforward. The wiring is what gets me. I've looked over some of the Dynon docs and don't have real clarity on what types of wires to run.

I know this has been done before in a RV-7. Can anyone assist with pics or info?

(Pdtofly)
What I do it this. I use the twisted Green, Blue, White/Green, and White/Blue wires from the the SkyView Network cable. Then I get a 22 gage Yellow wire for the disengage switch, and 20 gage Red and Black wire. Page 10-10 of the SkyView Revision AJ install manual. This way it matches all the Dynon install wiring colors.

 

Substituting a Digital Level with an Old Carpenter's Protractor

Working on the RV14A fuselage. Page 29-06 calls for using a digital level to put a 10 DEG twist in the upper longeron.

Well, I don't have a digital level. So how do I measure this? Let's see, what do I have that will give me a measurement? I do have a bubble level. I also have a very old carpenter's protractor that works very well. I also just so happened to have a metal shelf just laying around that happens to be perfectly square. I have tables that are perfectly level. Putting all of those tools together and securing with some clamps I came up with a system that looks like this:

 

Evercoat Rage vs JP202 ...DanH PIREP

Totally different products and purposes.

Rage is a very popular polyester based body filler for used cars. It is wiped on as a thixotropic solid, most commonly to fill a dent.

PPG JP202 is a urethane high build primer-surfacer. It's sprayed on and block sanded back off as the last step before paint, for optical surface flatness.

I use Rage in some applications, but not on my airplane fiberglass or aluminum. Cheap, fast, good, pick any two. Epoxy/micro has better adhesion, but it's not fast.

K36 also being a primer-surfacer, basically an upline choice from PPG.

Here's one set of samples from an old peel test in my shop, Evercoat Rage Gold vs West 105 and microballoons on identically prepared aluminum coupons. The Rage always failed with less force, and when it did, it was usually a clean peel from the surface. Epoxy micro required more force, and typically exhibited a cohesive failure rather than adhesive.

As noted previously, Rage has its uses. I like it for leveling low spots in ply surfaces on wood wings, for example. There are better choices for aluminum, and for glass, epoxy on epoxy is always safe.

Generally, urethane primer surfacers are pretty good, and I like PPG products. Shopline is a lower end PPG product, I suspect better than most budget brands.


 

Seen by Vlad in his -9A

...in Colorado.

 

 

6/2/2022.  Issue #5,582.
Part time contract SIC in both and .  Click on the guitar pic for more info --->
 

Seen at the local theater


(about the charity cap)

 

Photos, Phinally ...JDeanda's Retracting Tie Down Rings

So here's how I did it. I scored a piece of .125" 7075-T6 at the local metal supply for the pivoting ring thingy. I'm sure 2024-T3 would be fine. The rest is simple sheet metal work and mostly AN hardware. There's a 5/16" OD bushing on the pivot that the bolt tightens down on. I made up a couple of nylon washers to take the side loads. The spring is inelegant and I'd envisioned bending up a clock-type spring to install coaxial with the pivot, but I ran out of time. One of these days I'll fix that. My CFI wife says it's her favorite thing about the airplane. BTW, I spent a fair bit of time pondering this and came up with a number of bad ideas. This was finally was inspired by the tiedowns at the upper end of some of the Cessna struts, and locating them on the wingtips copies the Grumman single engine airplanes. They clear the pitot and they're easier to reach. I just left the existing holes in the bottom of the wing as they are. This airplane is hangared so we don't have problems with mud daubers, but if I go out of town of course I tape the holes. If I ever do another set, I'll at least move the bolts a bit further apart so I wouldn't need to trim those AN960 large area washers. If ya'll have other ideas or refinements, I'd love to hear about them. Thanks for the interest!

 

RV3B heavy roll forces

I have an issue with heavy aileron roll forces in my RV3B has anyone fixed this issue easily before ?
Any simple ideas to make the aileron slightly convex without damaging paint ? Both ailerons are currently perfectly flat top and bottom.

 

Hartford Union High School students building an airplane

 

Mounting to radio trays?

Planning the avionics harness and would like to mount the GAD29 to the top of my radios (specifically the GNX 375 tray). Is there a good way to do this that won't interfere with the GNX ?

 

Need some help in diagnosing an odd noise in flight

I have an RV8 with about 400 hours on it. I am not the builder, but have put approximately 25 hours on it in the last few months.

I have an IO-360 and Whirlwind RV200 prop that I had rebuilt by whirlwind when I first bought the aircraft.

On a flight last week, we had just done a touch and go and were climbing back into the downwind. Just at the top of the climb at 24"/2500, the pilot-passenger and I noticed a sound that I can only describe as having a turboprop flying somewhere close in our vicinity. I felt it was coming from up front by the prop, the passenger who is also a pilot felt is was coming from below us. The sound remained with MP and RPM changes, and did not change much in pitch or volume. By the time we returned to our home airport 15 miles away, it was gone. It was not loud, or scary, and I couldn't perceive any associated vibration. Only the sound.

On the ground we theorized that it could be a panel vibrating that I recently attached a cupholder to.

Yesterday, we went up again to test, and through all different power and climb/cruise configurations, we could not get it to come back. When returning to the airport, we initiated a decent of about 1500 fpm at around 15"/2400 rpm and the sound came back. I added MP and began to climb so we could spend some time diagnosing, and it immediately went away. We could not get it to come back.

My passenger was quick enough to push on the panel the cupholder was on, and verified that it was not the problem.

I never heard this in the previous 22 hours I put on the aircraft.

I have checked the following between the first flight and yesterday:

-I checked the entire exhaust system
-Looked at everything with the cowling off
-Spinner is tight, true, no rubbing
-Prop blades are tight, clean, and tapping the entire length, both blades sound the same
-Wheel pants are tight
-We did not notice any flutter or vibration through any controls
-Wing root rubber strip is secure
-All panels and fairings are tight and secure

Any thoughts on how I can diagnose this? It might be nothing, it might be something. Intermittent problems are the worst!

 

Wedge's New RV-8 Fastback Panel

 

Throttle quadrant/cable mounting issues

Hello all,
Replacing the push-pull vernier cables on the 6A with a quadrant (per the lady's request) and I am running into a little issue with the clevis arms "bottoming out" on the control arms. Because of this the angle at which I can achieve full throw both directions without running out of clevis groove throw would require the cables to be mounting "arching upward" at a significant degree which is going to interfere with mounting. Wondering if anyone has run into this before and if there is some solution other than A: cutting notches out of the throttle and picture control arm to allow the clevis to travel further or B: rotating the entire quadrant until the cables travel more in line with the quadrant mount.

In regards to the bracket to mount this whole thing, I'm basically still figuring that out but if anyone has done this before on the 6 and has any tips/plans to mount it I'm all ears.

 

Danny Stanton RV-8

Vern Darley,DAR, presents airworthiness docs to Danny Stanton for his beautiful RV-8


 

 

6/1/2022.  Issue #5,581.
 
Sorry for the late push - was in the shaking box on poles side hustle. ;^)
   Need a Contract ATP-rated G-V or Phenom 300 SIC?
 

June Wallpaper Calendar

Courtesy Mr. Ed Hicks.

 

DIY Brackets ...Bill E.

I fabricated my own from ,063" stainless steel scrap I had. I have an O-320H2AD and the sump is different than others, so the store bought ones wouldn't work. Not very hard to roll your own bracket.

 

Conflicting Torque Values

Slightly confused here. I'm about to torque the fuel tank AN fittings. the torque chart on Van's site says 270-350in/lb for -8 fittings, AC43-13 (section 9, page 19) sites 230-260 in/lb & The Aircraft Mechanics Handbook sites 150-250 in/lb... Anyone know off hand what is correct for the fuel pick up & vent (-4) line fittings?

 

Richard Connell RV-10 Cockpit

 

Build Update: cgeyman -9A

On final assembly my front tip-up canopy lip was catching. Attempts at fixing it resulted in a thin, wavy, deformed edge- I cried a little and then trimmed it back. Then I had to add on top a thicker reinforcement aluminum strip and faired it out with lightweight epoxy. I probably went too far in gap allowed, but I am using trim rubber to compensate and give extra rain protection- I was never going to get a Lindsay award- just shooting for safe.

Should have photoed the deformed and catching front edge but I was too embarrassed and heart broken.

 

Help troubleshooting a new engine.

I have fired up the IO-540 on the RV-10 I am building, I am seeing some weird data, and am trying to figure out if I have a problem, or if it is likely related to being a new engine that is still breaking in.

This is a brand new Io-540 that my son and I built with assistance at AeroSport Power. Ignitions are 2X Surefly... pretty much a standard IO-540.

I have two cylinders (#3 and #5) whose EGTs are quite a bit higher than the other four. When I shut off one of the ignitions, the EGTs on those same two cylinders seem to spike higher than the other four as well.

I've checked the timing on both ignitions, and they are right on TDC for #1. I've checked the plugs on cylinders #3 and #5 and they look clean. I've pulled and cleaned the injectors on both cylinders and didn't see any sort of clogging or debris.

The engine starts easily, but seems to run a little rougher than I would expect (not data to back that up). Any suggestion I should be looking at, or is this most likely something that will smooth out once the engine is broken in?

 

 

5/31/2022.  Issue #5,580.
   Need an ATP-rated G-550/450 or EMB-505 SIC? ...I'm here.
 


Rob Reece working on
his -8 canopy on Memorial Day
at the VanCave.
 

Wheel pants - fiberglass repair question

I'm fixing up my wheel pants (as addressed in this thread). I have some stress cracks at the mounting screw holes, which I'm reinforcing with carbon fiber on the inside and a couple layers of fiberglass on the outside.

My question is about the rear main gear fairing on both sides. The rear-most part that fits over the gear leg fairings is cracked, apparently for years. Likely due to too tight a fit with resultant jostling and vibration. My plan is not to close the two cracks...rather to just leave the cracks as they are, being afraid that they're too tight and maybe just leave them relieved.

How should I do that? The options I've been considering include just filling the whole crack with some epoxy/flox (or some JB Weld), or sanding down the gelcoat around the crack, filling the crack, and then reinforcing with a fiberglass overlay. TIA for advice.

 

Elevator horn hitting Bulkhead F-112

Today I was grinding away on the up elevator stop to hopefully achieve 30* up deflection. My bad, a little too much grinding without checking. Now the elevator horn hits the aft bulkhead F-112.

OK. I can replace the stop but my concern is, the elevator horn hits the bulkhead with only 26* up deflection. Is something really out of wack that the up deflection is so limited

The elevator horn would have to be ground down where it hits the bulkhead to achieve full deflection...

Any insight would be appreciated.

 

Axle Cotter Pin Hole Location

Matco wheels/brakes installed and axle nut tightened down. These photos show how close the cotter pin hole would be to the end of the axle. Seems awful close to me. Any thoughts??

 

F-1207A baggage bulkhead question

Has anyone encountered the F-1207A bulkhead bowing when installed to the F-01207C left and rights? Appears the holes are about 1/2 a hole off when put in place. Here is a picture to show what is happening. I can't find what I am doing wrong with these pieces.

 

On Bird Nests

(OP) Birds nests in horizontal stab
Found some birds were trying to build new condos in my horizontal stabilizer. Luckily it was early in construction and I was able to pull out most of the sticks and straw.

I've started tying my control stick with the seatbelts after flights in my -9A. It pulls the stick back and opens up the holes in the horizontal stabilizer. Any ideas on how to prevent birds from nesting in there? Is there some solution that doesn't require me removing/adding some plug material before/after every flight?
 

(Reply) That is kinda funny. We want to fly like the birds, but then uninvite them to the party - at least, anywhere near us or our parked planes.

Thanks for the suggestion. I don't think I explained the situation well. The holes I was referring to are on the sides of the horizontal stabilizer.

 

Extending a metal lip?

Not a big deal (except to me), but I trimmed the left side of my instrument panel 1/4" too far, I can easily adjust to make it look fine, but.... y'know. I was thinking I might be able to make a lip out of JB Weld (like I'd do with a bit of resin and filler if I was working with fiberglass), maybe put a thin piece of metal on the back to support it. Piece I need to add is only ~1.5" long, and is non-structural/load-bearing

The panel is going to be veneered, so the repair/extension will be covered up, thoughts about if this is possible?

 

Proud caretaker of an RV-10!

After a crazy 3 week period at the beginning of which I seriously started looking for an RV-10, I flew home today from Albuquerque in the plane that was posted by Guy Prevost a couple of weeks ago on the forum! We completed the transaction on Tuesday, I got my 5 hours of transition training yesterday and flew it home today (KRHV in the Bay Area) including a landing and a takeoff at Fox field (KWJF) in winds that were 22G29 which the plane handled like a champ!

This forum has been fantastic in providing a lot of good input and some people that contributed very directly who I'd like to thank:

Guy (obviously) - he was fantastic and really went above and beyond to help me understand the plane and its systems!
Don Ecckers - he was extremely helpful leading up to the purchase and came out to Albquerque to do the pre-buy!
Lee Otto - he did an awesome job on the transition training with the short window we had!
Bob Turner - he gave me a demo flight and a whole lot of information about an RV-10. I look forward to flying with him now to learn more about the plane.

I'm obviously exhilarated but also terrified that I now have to take on responsibility for the maintenance that I had happily abdicated to my club A&P's in the past! I look forward to learning a lot more from all the awesome folks on the forum.

 

This canopy could be the death of me!!!

Ok maybe that's a little dramatic but I'm so frustrated over this canopy. I had the euphoria inducing milestone of riveting on the last metal, the forward skin. My buddy then says let's put the canopy on. I didn't want to do it. I wanted to just revel in the moment of the last rivet going in. Well we attempted to put it on. The front catches on the forward skin in 3 places and is now deformed. The right side is now about 1/8 " further back so the canopy and rear window plexi now hit each other. That also means there's a larger gap on the right side at the front of the canopy. I only hope I can fix each problem spot so it looks half decent. I'm not building a show plane but I sure don't want people saying wow what a piece of **** canopy. Please let me know there's a light at the end of the canopy tunnel. I have a hangar waiting for me and this is what's holding me up from getting it there.

 

My RV Weekend ...various





 

 

RV-10 Cabin Cover Fitting Question

Today I began trimming the cabin cover to fit on the fuselage. After trimming to the scribe lines, the dimension between the edges of the door pillars is 37-7/16", approximately.

The dimension between the aluminum frames forward and aft of the doors is approximately 37". Looking at the cabin cover, in order to cut it to 37", it would require cutting almost the entirety of the straight/flat vertical fiberglass parts of the door frames out and leaving only the curved parts. This would take out a significant portion of the reinforced areas where the door latch pins will go.

This doesn't seem to be right. Can anyone compare their experiences with mine?

 

Our Airplane's Tie Down Rings

Here's what I did on the wingtips or our RV-6 after my local RV pals gave me grief for leaving the eyebolts under the wings. Besides, the tiedown rope or chain on the left usually fouls on the pitot tube. If folks really want me to, I'll remove the wingtip and take a couple more photos.

 

Identify this recess inside of top cowling

Happy Memorial Day!

I would like to know what the small recess is for on the Right inside of the top cowling. (RV7A). In the picture you will see the recess for the oil door bottom left, and above that near front of cowl there is a small rectangular recess.

I'm finishing up the baffles and they are directly below this recess. I'm thinking I should fill it in with micro and contour to shape. The reason is that the baffle seal would seal better if all was smooth.

What is it for?

Can I, Should I fill it in?

 

 

Memorial Day, 2022. 
  The VAF News is observing Memorial Day and will start back up with the Tuesday edition.  Mothership is also closed.

"We should guard their graves with sacred vigilance. All that the consecrated wealth and taste of the nation can add to their adornment and security, is but a fitting tribute to the memory of her slain defenders. Let pleasant paths invite the coming and going of reverent visitors and fond mourners. Let no vandalism of avarice or neglect, no ravages of time testify to the present or the coming generations, that we have forgotten as a people the cost of a free and undivided Republic. If other eyes grow dull, and other hands slack, and other hearts cold in the solemn trust, ours shall keep it well as long as the light and warmth of life remains to us."
 

---General John Logan, General Order No. 11, May 5, 1868

 

 

 

5/27/2022.  Issue #5,579.
 
Twenty four days since my last RV flight - fixed that Thursday a.m.  A .3 re-centered the mental gyros and moved the oil around.  Felt good to take Flash up for a spin.  Semi-respectable overhead.
  Mothership will be closed Monday, May 30th in observance of Memorial Day.
  Wishing you and yours a happy, safe and RV-filled weekend.
   Need an ATP-rated G-550/450 or EMB-505 SIC? ...I'm here.
 

 

Pinched end support rods ...Stevea's take

Use something like this in the vice jaws to give a rounded transition from round tube to flat end. The jaw guards are so old I don't even remember where I got the material. But is nothing more than aluminum angle stock (window frame grade) with a rounded over edge, about 3/16" radius. Make something like this out of aluminum (aircraft grade or not) and round over the edge with a router bit. Or use hard oak or maple blocks. Point is, this produces a gradual transition to the flat part.

All of my stainless steel Vetterman exhaust hangars are made this way, as is my 4130 steel oil cooler diagonal brace. The 4130 steel was heated cherry red and allowed to cool in air after forming. None of my exhaust hangar ends or oil cooler brace has cracked in just over 1000 hours service.

Simply smashing the ends in the sharp jaws of a vice (as in the OP's photo) will clause a stress point in the material, that may lead to a cracked/broken part right at the round to flat transition.

FYI: yea, I know that is a piece of aluminum tubing in the photo.....only think I could find in my scrap bin. Sorry no photo of my oil cooler brace, but it looks like the one mburch posted in his photo....same material, same thickness, same configuration except the cylinder head end mounts to the side baffle through a 1/16" x 3/4 AL angle , above the head, using a 3/16 bolt. Seems to work. NO cracks in the aluminum stack up on the back right corner of the baffles.

 

Need some advice on soldering tiny terminals

This particular skill set isn't something I've had a lot of practice with, and I'm trying to solder leads on the little $2 PTT switch that Stein sells, without much success.

I've ruined 2 of these darn things so far. By the time the solder flows, the plastic terminal base where the terminal tabs come out of is also flowing, and that's the end of that.

On the first one I tried heating up the terminal and wicking the solder though the wire to it. Pretty obvious that was the wrong thing to do.

On the second attempt, I tried heating up the wire a little further away from the switch and wicking the solder the other way, away from the switch housing. Still melted

I'm using a cheap weller pencil style soldering iron with a fine tip if that matters, and I've tinned it before use.

Any tips?

 

David Paule -3B Status Report

The cowl cheek extensions arrived and as expected, they don't fit my RV-3B. Remember, they are RV-4 parts, so there's no reason that they should. They are a bit short on width, skin to outboard face, as shown here.

 

Matco wheel bearings slinging grease

During postflight inspection yesterday I noticed this. Not sure when it may have started; not noticed until this walkaround. These wheels have only seen some normal taxiing, one high speed taxi and five landings. The photo is of the left wheel; the right also showed signs of grease oozing past the seals but hadn't gotten enough out to fling onto the rims. Is this normal for new wheels? Should I be rechecking my bearing tightness? Any input on this output would be greatly appreciated.

 

Excessive Tail Shaking/Buffet

Looking for some ideas from the brain trust. I have a RV-8 (not the original builder) that I purchased in 2020. It was completed in 2019. The builder is very experienced and well known. The plane performed really well until we had it painted. Since then there has been intermittent Tail Shaking first detected on the flight back from the paint shop.

My research has shown that this seems to be a known aerodynamic issue with the RV-8 design where there is pronounced tail buffeting/shaking just prior to stall due to dirty air flowing over the wing roots and down to the tail.

Our testing has found that this occurs at about 67kt clean and the tail shaking is bordering on quite violent when it happens.

My real question is why this issue would suddenly start occurring after paint. We have checked and re-torqued all the attachment bolts in the empennage and everything looks good.

Any ideas?

 

Closed Cell foam to seal the baggage door? ...Lkitson PIREP

I used rigid closed cell insulation board that I had laying around the shop. I also fabricated an aluminum angle and riveted it to the door hinge support to help hold the foam in and to give it a more finished look.

 

Mothership News

 

New First Flights Reported ..on the mothership


















 

 

5/26/2022.  Issue #5,578.
   Need an ATP-rated G-550/450 or EMB-505 SIC? ...I'm here.
 

Support Rod DIY ...mburch

I made this oil cooler support brace by pounding some 0.058" wall 4130 tube over the round edge of an anvil, annealing the ends with a torch, and painting:

 

200kt GS ...Tommy Lewis

Our turn
Once again we had the experience of watching the ground speed exceed 200 knots. Because of the weather map for eastern half of the country this week, we left N TX on Sunday for N Indiana in our RV10 and then continued east to New Hampshire on Monday. On the second leg on Monday, we had a great tail wind for a long time and enjoyed the speed. Check out our spot tracking map below.

 

-7 Status Update ...idubrov

...and vertical stabilizer is finally complete, too (after rebuilding the whole front spar assembly).

 

Damaged RV-10 Horizontal stab - how to fix?

Horizontal Stab got dropped and damaged the leading edge beyond repair. Two ways to fix:

- Start all over and completely rebuild with all new parts, or

- Drill out all rivets, and disassemble the structure as necessary, then redo with new skins.

If I do the second option, any concerns with the structure being weakened after drilling out all those rivets? I'm pretty good at drilling out rivets, but some holes are going to wind up slightly bigger.

Thanks in advance for your thoughts.

 

Mothership News

 

-3 Control Locks ...HFS

The attached pics are for ailerons/elevators & a 2-piece, 1" web strap (velcro overlap closure), with insulated, spring type laboratory clamps on each end, for the rudder. The cross "brace" is to stabilize the aileron movement in a high wind environment - not always used.

The web straps "clamp" onto the rudder cables at the seat bulkhead, and then go forward and wrap around the stick, then velcroed after "snugging" them together.

The lab clamps (McMaster P/N 5164A41) can be adjusted tightly enough to secure the rudder cables against the bulkhead.

 

-14 Extended Range W&B ...Ken reply

This is an interesting question...at the beginning of the development effort I was worried about it - won't the ER fuel make the loaded airplane nose heavy?

The additional fuel's effect on CG location turned-out to be smaller than I had expected. You can study the attached image if, like me, you're a number-nerd but the quick & dirty summary is as follows:

For RV-14, with a light pilot and max fuel, the difference in CG position between "standard fuel" and "ER fuel" is only .03 inches or 0.1% chord.

For RV-14 ER, loaded to the MTOW of 2050 lb with 100 lb baggage and 67 gallons of gas, the difference in CG position between "standard fuel" and "ER fuel" is .24 inches or 0.5% chord.

In retrospect, it should not have been such a surprise to me that the weight of the ER fuel made such a small difference in CG position - aircraft designers strive to place the fuel as close to the CG as possible. This minimizes the change in CG that necessarily happens as fuel is burned-off.

 

Garmin G3X CAN Bus issue

I've been having issues with my G3X system recently (been flying close to a year with about 80 hours TT). I lost portions of the panel display shortly after takeoff (from Leadville, CO of all places). I climbed for a few minutes while debating whether I should land and everything returned to normal. I decided to return to my home airport (KCFO) and all was normal until it recurred while in the pattern at KCFO. My panel was built by Steinair who suspects that it's a loose connection somewhere in the CAN Bus. I've been pulling harnesses and inspecting them but have yet to find anything amiss.

I've been able to get it to occur a few more times while taxiing and have taken some videos and uploaded to a non-published YouTube channel for SteinAir to review. I believe the errors have been the same every time it's occurred. We're still troubleshooting but I thought it would be worth sharing links to a few of the YT videos just for everyone's information what it looks like. I certainly welcome any suggestions anyone might have.

I believe SteinAir has already been in contact with Garmin but I was hoping the Garmin folks would take a look and offer their thoughts. I will say that SteinAir's support has been excellent and they've reassured me they'll get it figured out and get it fixed. The question is do I feel comfortable flying it about 4 hours to their shop in MN? I feel like all the required instrumentation is there to be legal for VFR flight (between the PFD & MFD) as long as it doesn't act up in any way different than it has to this point. Here are links to a couple of the videos:

(G3Xpert)
After reviewing the videos, it does appear to be a CAN bus failure. Of note, your PFD is still displaying your flight instruments, while the MFD is displaying the EIS information. That is because in addition to the primary means of communication between the various pieces of equipment that make up the G3X Touch system, the CAN bus, there is a second backup data path between the displays and those LRU's that provide critical information needed for flight (EIS and ADAHRS data).

We cant say for sure, but the behavior is indicative of an intermittent wiring problem, in which the CAN bus wiring is being shorted to ground. This can happen if the insulation on the CAN bus wire has been compromised, and a strand of the shield is making contact with the conductor.

It may be best to contact us at G3Xpert@Garmin.com (or 1-866-854-8433), so we can help walk through the troubleshooting process with you.

 

 

5/25/2022.  Issue #5,577.
   Need an ATP-rated G-550/450 or EMB-505 SIC? ...I'm here.
 

From the Weekend ...Smokey Ray

Back to the future...
Last weekend I attended an F16 squadron reunion at Gaston's resort in AR. It was a reunion in more ways than one as a squadron bro in attendance arrived in his RV8, one I am intimately familiar. Way back in 99' when I lived in CA I assisted my (then) neighbor BH in building it, then test flew and later sold for him. I've screened the buyers since and it's now owned by "RedDog"!

How cool is that?

 

Third Test Flight ...plane update.  goatflieg

I forgot to mention here that Dave Carrick had performed the third test flight on May 17th. The canopy skirt seals I installed solved the vibration problem, but the spinner backing plate was still rubbing the bottom cowl. Aside from that, he cleared me to fly it. I worked on the cowl some more and waited on weather before I made my first flight.

 

RV-10 Cup Holder ...Dad's RV-10

 

Drip Pan Failed

Today I was doing a routine engine inspection after flying 5 hours since my annual. My left drip pan for the carburetor had failed due to fatigue failure. The crack was at the 90 degree bend at the forward end of the horizontal pan. Total time in service 1174 hours since March 2012 when I did first flight. Thought I would pass on the info so others can check theirs. Replacement parts on order - it's too hot in PHX to fabricate one from scratch!

 

Forward rib fluting question

Hi 14'ers!

I've been fluting the forward ribs based on the "tabletop" then "straight edge" approaches, and I think I'm getting good results. However the ribs with a cutout for the stiffeners exhibit something I'm unsure of.

You can see from the difference in image 1 and 2 below that the aft upper portion of the rib seem to "cog" between these two orientations. It doesn't take much force to alight the fore and aft sections into a line, but the rib really doesn't want to sit that way by itself.

The fluting activity doesn't make this tendency better, in fact it probably worsens it a bit. But as you can sorta see from the edge shot below, I'm getting the rivet holes lined up nicely.

So am I ok, or missing something?

 

Brown Tool AMT DAY Coupon Code - Good May 24th ONLY

.Today, May 24th is officially recognized as AMT (Aviation Maintenance Technician) Day in 45 states. May 24th was chosen because it is Charles Taylor's birthday and as the engine mechanic for The Wright Brothers, he is considered by many as the 'first' aircraft mechanic.

In honor of AMT DAY, we are offering a 10% discount off of any order of $100 or more if you use the coupon code AMTDAY and place your order before 11:59pm central time today, May 24th. This discount code applies to ALL items on our website, even items that are already on sale or kits that are already discounted. If you are considering buying a new Sioux Drill, a top-of-the-line Chicago Pneumatic Rivet Gun, or even one of our RV Tool kits, today is the day to do so!

www.browntool.com

The simple rules: You must place your order of $100 or more online before 11:59pm, central time, today, 5-24-22, and you must enter the coupon code AMTDAY (must be in all caps) when checking out. Of course discount is only for new orders and does not apply to previously placed orders. Dealers/resellers are ineligible.

Don't forget, that we offer FREE shipping to any address in the USA for orders over $100 that are paid with a credit card.

Just like everyone else, we are dealing with ongoing supply chain issues. While most of our nearly 4000 different part numbers are in stock for immediate shipment, there are a few products that are delayed or that might have a lead time that is longer than normal. Placing your order today will lock in the discounted price, even if the item is temporarily out of stock. Again though, the overwhelming majority of our nearly 4000 part numbers are in stock and will ship immediately.

Thanks everyone for your continued support and again, HAPPY AMT DAY!

Michael Brown
Brown Aviation Tool Supply, LLC
Oklahoma City, OK
www.browntool.com
michael @ browntool . com
1-800-587-3883

[ed. I'm sorry I didn't see this until 2200Z on the 24th, about 7 hours until the deadline.  Hopefully some folks will see it.  v/r,dr]

 

Cracked Air filter housing

I was helping a friend on his 10 year old RV-10 with 500 hours and found this:

 

 

5/24/2022.  Issue #5,576.
   Need an ATP-rated G-550/450 or EMB-505 SIC? ...I'm here.
 

From the Current 'My RV Weekend' Thread

 

Cutting the 6" hole, question?

So I'm a couple weeks out from having to make the 6" hole cut in the fuel tank rib. I have heard all the stories of using the fly cutter and how it can murder you if not careful. So my question is, is there any reason a 6" hole "saw" "cutter" cannot be used in place of the fly cutter? It is thin aluminum, so I'm just curious if anyone has tried it or has experience. Oh and yes before anyone says it, I know if you take your time and secure the piece to the drill press and use a slow RPM, the fly cutter will work well. Thanks guys. I tried to post a web link for reference of a possible candidate.

(answer)
Sorry about the quality of this pic - it was taken with a Polaroid (remember them?) in 1986 - but it shows the basic idea of "sandwiching" the rib web between two pieces of plywood to help eliminate the possibility of "hooking" an exposed edge when cutting.

This is nothing new, but I just thought I'd bring to your attention.

YMMV - and probably will.

 

Cloud Residue - Beware!

Even though it's mid May, there might still be some "cloud residue" waiting for the unsuspecting. Pireps reported negative ice. Even though it wasn't forcast, the conditions were certainly present and when given the descent, I considered my options before starting down. In this case, it was of only minor concern since the cloud layer was verified to be less than two thousand feet thick and I'd be in a descent the entire way down. Once out, there was over 7000 feet of warmer air between me and the ground. Still, I picked up this much cloud residue in about two minutes coming down at about 1000fpm and 150kts:

 

-7/7A Riveting the Bottom Skin Issue

Q:
There is interference while riveting the trailing edge / rear spar near the aileron hinge. I manage to fit a pop rivet in one of the holes but the other is just blocked. Looks like the reinforced rear spar addendum is the culprit. Without any advice, looks like one hole will just have to be filled at some point.

A:



 

Build Update: cgeyman

Wingtip alignment
I found my right wingtip to be 3/8 inch lower than my aileron and flaps when all was rigged properly. I missed the memo of NOT drilling the wingtips until the flaps and ailerons are fully fitted and rigged to the chord line. As other before have done, you can dremel split the fiberglass and adjust it and reglass, you can drill out and shift/tweak its position and reattach, or fly and see how it behaves. I am doing the latter for now but did order a new right tip as I want a do over anyway given mild rib positioning issue on my first tip. I don't want a heavy wing but lots of variables to this.

 

-14 Center Pedestal Ideas ...continued

Cup holder

 

 

5/23/2022.  Issue #5,575.
   Need an ATP-rated G-550/450 or EMB-505 SIC? ...I'm here.
 

My RV Weekend ...various

 

Tom Swearington Update ...our friend recovering.

Not necessarily RV related, but will be----I came home Friday afternoon. Several boxes stacked up of things to do---not sure what yet, but from clients. YES--as soon as I get a little more strength I'll handle them. Promise.
I tried to forward most of the pressing email traffic to Steve so he could help process things. I have some in the order of like 75 that I need to go over. Ya'll---please be patient YES----I will get to all of them.

I'll say here again for the record, the RV community is the BEST. Your thoughts and prayers mean so much, its motivating.

So first nite "jitters" its this really going to work? Will I breathe when I sleep without the oxygen? Well apparently so, because I'm writinng this on Saturday morning. The sun came up, some planes are flying at 3J1, so maybe all is well.
Going to be on antibiotics for a couple of weeks and more follow up DRs appointments than I remember seeing DRs for---but whatever.

To those of you in the medical community----Heroes all. You don't get enough credit when lives are saved. 2 times now, Ive been on the verge of disastrous consequences, and each time Drs nurses and specialty staff have brought me back so I could make some contribution. All of you need to stand up and be recognized.

We take alot of things for granted these days, I know I do/did. Hug a Dr, Hug a nurse, Hug a respiratory therapist, hug the CNA that wakes you up aout of the best sleep you've had to take your vitals and then says go back to sleep. Yeah right----BUT--she/he is doing an important job that seems pretty annoying to someone that was sleeping. Now that I've seen a broader picture, all of you are a team. From the Dr that I gave a hard time about the chest tube procedure hurting, to the late nite radiology shift doing chest xrays and CTs on me, to the night nurse who was helping me get well, while her husband is in chemo------All of your dedication is way beyond the call of duty. I appreciate all of you alot more.

 

Galling

Vent session ahead.

I was taking my time and being careful on the RV-10 fuel tanks since I know that a small misstep can cause serious pain and labor later. Left tank came out great. Right tank is near completion. Just before installing the rear baffle I installed the plug for the currently unused fuel return flange that I installed. Applied locktite 567 liberally to both the plug and flange. Backed the plug out a half turn any time I felt resistance. Finally during the last turn the torque was almost at 120 in/lbs and I pushed through a tiny bit of resistance when I felt the galling. Tried to unscrew it a little to relube the threads and it didn't want to budge.

Used a lot of force to unscrew it as a galled NPT fitting likely won't seal and definitely wont work if I end up installing a return line later and sure enough, strips the threads on both the plug and flange.

Luckily the Baffle is not yet installed, but the VA-141 flange is on backorder. Looks like I will have my right fuel tank sitting open for a while longer. Who knows how long the flange is on backorder for. Frustrating and nobody to blame but myself. At least I should be happy it is only a $40 mistake and fixable since the rear baffle was not yet installed.

 

A Box Checked Thanks to the RV...

....a couple of times over the last two weeks.  Side hustle first Gulfstream G-V SIC (PIC visits here and built an RV).  Barely hanging on the tail mentally pretty much both flights, trying to remember 10%.  Still mentally a little whooped - all new experiences.  First Gulfstream gig.  First over-ocean trip.  First visit to Hawaii (felt like Six Flags).  A very patient PIC who hid his eye rolls well - they had to be there!

Hard to fully grasp where this RV hobby has led, and I bet there are hundreds if not thousands of stories just like it.  Unexpected life journeys brought on by being in the RV world.  It just seems to happen.  One minute you're building a vertical stab in your garage because you dream of having a VFR airplane for your VFR ticket, and the next you're in the cockpit at FL430 on the planet's longest leg over water without an alternate.  Mind spinning...  I guess the takeaway is don't be too surprised when your RV hobby takes your life down a path you didn't anticipate.  It can be amazing.  And humbling.


enlarge

Garmin is letting me demo one of their new D2 Mach 1 watches for a few.  It locked in just fine (also used on the airline trip home).  Bluetoothed to GP following along with VFR sectionals on the phone made the airline trip home more enjoyable.  There's the boneyard, there's that little town and yep, the airport's on the west side just like on the chart.  Extending the Track Vector Line out 20nm with the flight plan entered (from FlightAware) you could tell when center would let us cut a corner, giving us direct to a VOR further down the line and such.  The watch said I slept 'Fair' on the trip.  #NerdPorn  #INeedALife  #HelpMe  #ActuallyPrettyCool as the kids say.

Pooped. 

As I was getting on board the airliner for the trip home from the west coast, with thoughts of taking the RV-6 into the air in a day or so, the wifey texted she had Covid (again).  Emailed the sim to start the process of whatever Covid protocol is in place currently.  They wanna know things like this.  My involvement in a couple of scheduled sims this week at odd times may be on hold.  Developing...

Life 101.  Gonna be a busy week and I may end up with it (again).  For better or worse as they say.  I signed up for this.  ;^)

 

The Yips - not just for golf

Just when I thought I was getting the hang of riveting, along came the tanks. I can't set a good rivet to save my life all of the sudden! I abandoned trying to rivet with freshly applied proseal because that made everything 10X worse (and also made it so I couldn't see what the rivet result was anyway - something that became more and more important as I screwed up one rivet after another). So now I'm going the route of letting the proseal cure just a bit so I can at least see what my rivet heads look like. I should have kept living in ignorance - I think I'm probably shooting 50/50 for acceptable vs clinched rivets. I have no idea why I'm laying them over suddenly - bucking bar looks parallel to the surface and it's the proper rivet length. The worst offenders tend to be the last few rivets on the top side leading edge. I've gotten my use out of oops rivets there.

After the swear jar filled up enough to fund a second airplane, I finally just called it. Very frustrating.

 

Muffler Crack

I'm doing Annual Condition Inspection now and found a crack in the muffler where the exit exhaust tube is welded on. Looks like vibration induced metal fatigue from long cantilever exhaust tube. TT=750. Muffler is in back of car and headed for local TIG welding shop...

 

IAC East Coast Championship results!

Huge congratulations to both Bill McLean and Ben Poffenberger!!!

Both competed in their RV-4's during this past weekend's Mark Fullerton Memorial East Coast Championship. Bill took 1st place out of 9 contestants in Sportsman and Ben took 2nd place out of 6 in Primary. Impressive results gentlemen!!! Please give us a PIREP and post some pictures. I'm sorry I couldn't be there this weekend to support you all.

Hopefully this will be the motivator If you've been thinking about competing in IAC sanctioned events. Please feel free to reach out to me, Bill, Ron Schreck, and Eric Sandifer and we will be happy to guide and assist you. Here is a list of upcoming contests. Pick one and go for it! I plan on being at the June 18th Warrenton VA contest. Hopefully my Extra will be out of the avionics shop by then!

 

RV-7 #75069 Build Update

After many working sessions, getting to the point of no return: this nose rib is going to be hidden inside the part!  Looks good to me. Couple of rivets are not exactly straight, but this should do. I noted that I instinctively tend to get shop heads on a smaller side. There was one head ~0.126" (which is still good according to the spec, which gives ~0.122" minimum for 3/32" rivets), but I hit it few more times.

 

F-603, F-6103 or F-703

I'm in the planning stages (for many months) of a panel upgrade in my RV6.

In a thread on replacement panels from a couple months ago, Paul Dye and Mike Starkey recommended that a DIY approach was well worth it, and that it wasn't necessary to hire out the panel cutting to someone else. I'm going to give it a try. I may order an extra blank or two though...

I'm not sure which panel blank I need. The plane currently has an F-603 panel, which is 11" tall. I want to keep that format. Searching F-603 on the Van's site only yields the F-6103 OVSZ. Per the description, F-6103 OVSZ can be used in the 6, 7 and 9 tip-ups, and measures 14"x42", but has a (confusing) Q&A response stating it is 11"x42" (see the picture).

The F-703 description only shows the 7 and 9 tip ups.

Can I use the F-703 in a tip-up RV6?

I've been told some trimming/shaping is required no matter what I get, but it seems like if the F-6103 OVSZ works in the 6, 7 and 9, then F-703 would too.

I'm planning to give Vans a call later today, but thought someone here might be able to help.

 

Alternate Air PIREP ...Flyhud

This is how I did mine, bottom plate is pro sealed to fiberglass.

 

Help with primer issue!

Hello, first post, and I need some help! I'm having an issue getting self etching primer to stick to aluminum angle. I have done all the research on priming and decided that I would prime parts with rattle can primer for the most part. After a lot of research it seemed that most folks had good success with the SES self etching primer that Aircraft Spruce sells. After a couple of attempts I am still having issues. I have tried roughing the surface with a maroon scotch brite pad, no luck, so I then went to 80 grit paper and still couldn't get adhesion. I think I have talked enough so please see attached photos and I would love to hear how you folks that have used this have had success. Thanks!

 

-14 Storage Ideas ...Jim PIREP

I'm moving my canopy release handle from the central panel (RV14) to the center pedestal area. I plan on mounting it higher than plans call for in OP-63 (Cable routing looks good). I'm looking some photo ideas of what others have built in the space. Prefer open cubby to store iPhone etc.

 

 

5/20/2022.  Issue #5,574.
  Wishing you and yours a happy, safe and RV-filled weekend.
   Need an ATP-rated G-550/450 or EMB-505 SIC? ...I'm here.
 


-4 says hey.  Love that cowl!

 

PH Aviation Retro Kit

Here is our sneak preview of our "retro kit." Really all you will need for all of the single-digit RVs are the two brackets, an AN5-13 bolt, nut, and cotter key.

We'll be offering these kits shortly. Here we're showing an RV-6 flap channel that we recently removed from the airplane with the legacy flap motor installed. We'll be taking this apart to make a video that will show the steps for converting to the new flap actuator. Next to it is a new RV-9 flap channel that we're currently building. The new flap actuator is currently being installed in the channel. They are both very similar and hopefully it's obvious that it's a pretty simple conversion in either case.

 

How bumpy is too bumpy or too windy?

I am still a student pilot. I have about 40 hours solo and 15 or so instruction in my 9A. I am not a fan of bouncing around when I fly but here in Michigan calm days are rare.

I have limited my flying to less than 10 mph on the ground or a 5-7 knot cross wind. As it heats up here, the different types of land - trees, lakes, farm land, all cause thermals and some pretty bumpy rides.

It still freaks me out a bit when it starts getting bumpy. I have been trying to fly through it thinking I will get used to it. I am better but I do cut some of my flights short because I am not enjoying it.

Any suggestions on how to become more comfortable in the bumps or flying technique that will help?

 

Spar nutplate countersinks

Hi team 14!

Please check me. I'm getting ready to countersink the spar for the center screw holes in the fuel tank and access panel nutplates. I created a test sample to try and get the depth of this countersink right using some rather thick bar stock and a K1000-06 nutplate.

I'm aware of the .007 rule for countersinking below a skin dimple for rivets but less clear about the approach for this special case. The instructions offer that for the #6 nutplate the max outer diameter of the dimple should be 7.8mm and the max inner should be 4mm.

On my test sample I snuck up on about 7.5mm OD and test fit a piece of scrap skin with a #6 dimple applied to it. The result is attached. I think the skin to spar gap is something like .008 on average all around (I can't quite get a .010 feeler gauge into the gap). Pls ignore the oversqueezed rivets, this bar stock is thicker than the real spar.

What do you all think. Am I on the right track here?

THE SPAR LIFE YOU SAVE MIGHT BE MINE

 

Fuel sender

Replacing fuel senders in my rv7a but since I don't have a clue what fuel leaks with these sensors looks like, I would like some help to figure out where the fuel was coming from. I didn't use pro seal, just the rubber gasket the sensors came with(Stuwart Warner). The inside of the sender is clean so the only thing I can think of is that the fuel seeps through the threads on the screws. I have pictures but need help posting. Sorry that I am not technically literate.

 

Left Flap Process ...Jslow2

 

How did you guys wire pitot heat annunc. into the G3X?

I have the heated but non-regulated version of garmin's pitot heater and would like to have a CAS "pitot heat on" message.

The original plan was to run a wire off the downstream side of the switch, through a fuseable link and into a discreet input on the GAD27.

Some sort of wire protection is highly desirable if I go this route, because the other wire coming off that terminal is the wire to the heater that's running through a honking big 20 amp breaker.

Unfortunately, I don't think I can get bigger that a 22 wire into the D-sub pin in the GAD27 connector, which would require a ridiculously small 26awg wire to make a fuse link. I don't have any wire that small, and don't know that I could crimp it successfully even if I did.

I considered an inline fuse, but space is extremely limited behind the switch panel, with only about an inch back there, so I can't have anything very bulky.

Is the answer here to make the fuse link 24awg into a 20 awg wire that has some strands cut out to get it to fit in the pin? Or is there a better solution? What did you guys do?

 

Sportsman II Seats for RV-14...Classic Aero announcement

We have just introduced a new style of seats for the RV-14. It's the Sportsman II (as oposed to our Aviator style of seats). Click the links or images for more details.

 

 

5/18/2022.  Issue #5,572.
  Sched is dynamic for the remainder of the week - expect varied edition push times.  Tanx.
   Need an ATP-rated G-550/450 or EMB-505 SIC? ...I'm here.
 

More from 'My RV Weekend'

 

My RV-10 left aileron jammed at full deflection!

Something I thought might be of interest to RV-10 people. Perhaps other models as well. I also shared this with Van's.

I was laying on my back doing some modification to wiring underneath the instrument panel. While I was doing that work the control stick was deflected to the left. After completion of my work underneath the panel I discovered that the control stick was jammed in the full left position. Forward / rear travel was unrestricted, but there was no ability to move the stick left / right.

At the ailerons themselves, the right aileron (deflected down) could be deflected only very slightly (consistent with normal control system "slop"), however, the left aileron was locked very tightly in the full up position. No movement at all was possible.

I disconnected the left aileron push rod (W-1018) at the bellcrank inside the wing. (See page 23-9 in RV-10 plans). Only after lifting up on the rod did I free the aileron.

Here's what I discovered.

1. During final aileron installation/rigging what I believed to be aileron contact at the aileron stop was actually the shopped end of the vertical rivet on the W-1018 pushrod contacting the rear face of the rear wing spar opening. Please see the attached image. This contact mimicked what could reasonably be determined to be aileron stop contact.

The ailerons demonstrated required deflection angles even with the rivet/rear spar contact.

With the rivet acting as the false aileron stop there was approximately a .125 gap still remaining between the aileron and the actual aileron stop.

The behavior of the rivet/spar contact was easily confused with solid aileron stop contact. Furthermore, it is not easy to visually confirm proper aileron stop contact.

Both ailerons had this condition.

2. Over time the shopped end of the rivet, while making contact with the rear face of the rear wing spar, lost some of its squared finish. The rivet had rounded just enough to allow the rivet to "hop" over the rear spar and then snap down snugly on the forward side of the spar.

Remember that, due to the aileron pivot geometry, the W-1018 pushrod moves forward and down with forward movement. So when the pushrod moved forward, and the rivet "hopped" over the rear spar, the pushrod was held down even more securely with the rivet jammed on the forward side.

3. I had to add clearance at the bottom of the rear wing spar openings on both wings in order to assure no rivet/spar contact. The ailerons now properly contact the aileron stops without rivet interference.

4. This situation would likely have been unrecoverable if it had happened in flight. However, to get this situation to occur in flight would have been the result of hard-over full control stick deflection- something I hate to think of as responsive as the RV-10 is.

 

High Oil Temp ...close call update

I think I have found the cause of my high oil temp. Today while doing the 100 hr on the engine I found this (see pic below).
This oil line was re-routed when I installed an oil thermostat from Aircraft Specialties about 50 flight hours ago when I put the lower cowl / oil cooler back on I didn't see that it pushed the oil line against the exhaust manifold. This could have ended very bad had it gone on much longer.

I contacted Steve at Aircraft Specialties and asked if the hose was salvageable and he suggested replacing it, this was around noon today. Steve didn't have the hose in stock. He was able to make it and get it shipped next day UPS, Oklahoma to California and I will have it tomorrow. The best part is he covered it all under warranty. This was clearly my faulty installation, not a bad product. Unbelievable customer service.

 

Exhaust hanger on Superior IO-360

Can you guys shed some light on an exhaust hanger installation.

I have a Vetterman trombone exhaust with mufflers installed on a Superior IO-360 with the cold induction. Between the header and muffler/tail pipe is a ball type socket. I assume this is primarily for movement absorption.

As the pipes exit the cowl keeping a good airgap for spacing, I tried to install the hangars to the back of the engine, and I can't get a straight shot, so I mocked up this installation. I would like to get some opinions of experience from you.

Am I going to run into problems doing it this way?

If you have an IO-360 with a Vetterman trombone exhaust, how did you do it?

 

 Extended Range Fuel Tanks for RV-10 & RV-14

Sky Designs is pleased to announce that ER Fuel Tank Kits for RV-10 and RV-14 are now available.

Our ER tanks are the same as "standard" but extend two rib-bays further outboard to allow for approximately two hours greater endurance. They allow (optionally) for a second fuel quantity sender in the outboard-most rib bay of each tank. The design also incorporates a "fill-tab" for partial fueling -or de-fueling if you're a "Scrappy" wannabe - to a known level.

 

Status: Jordan

Loading up for the trip west.

 

 

5/17/2022.  Issue #5,571.
  Sched is dynamic for the remainder of the week - expect varied edition push times.  Tanx.
   Need an ATP-rated G-550/450 or EMB-505 SIC? ...I'm here.


Airworthy! ...Rusty Phillips

Vern Darley ,DAR , issues airworthiness documents to builder Rusty Phillips of Cullman,Al. Rusty, a retired Marine F-4 and F-18 driver and more recently a Fed X pilot, installed a IO-540 in his RV-8. Vern said Rusty's plane had zero squawks found in the inspection. Congrats Rusty!

 

More from the 'My RV Weekend' Thread

 

Mid-Atlantic Gathering of RV's is Back!!

Yes, the Mid-Atlantic Gathering of RV's hosted by EAA Chapter 1384 at scenic Carroll County Airport (KDMW) will take place Saturday June 25 from 8:30am-2:30pm. Rain date is Sunday June 26th. Food, beverages and great camaraderie are on the agenda, donations always appreciated! Spread the word that we are back and come join us for this fun day. Also, invite a GA friend along to see some great RV's on the flightline, but spot them a good head start so that you arrive just before they do! More info to follow over the next few weeks. Contact me, Steve Koziol 267 614-8251 for any questions.
Safe travels! Steve

[ed. Added to the VAF Calendar.  v/r,dr]

 

Bleeding (filling) the brakes ...Cal's 9A

Kept making a mess until I clamped the 3/8 tube onto my squirt gun and the nylon hard tubing (same used for pitot static)

 

Thank you and love to this community! ...Sam

Hello all,

I was feeling some emotions in the shop today and figured I'd allow myself a gratitude post; hopefully not too off-topic for general.

I'm in the home stretch of my RV-10 build, rigging control surfaces and one engine intake filter away from firing up the engine for the first time. I started the build in June of 2015. Some thoughts I had at the time:

- I bet I can finish this thing in 12 months tops.
- If I'm careful, I COULD be the first builder to never biff a single rivet. (I proceeded to rivet a doubler onto the wrong side of the vertical stabilizer spar and drilled out ALL of my first ~12 rivets. Another dream dashed.)

I now have a 3 year old daughter, twins on the way, I've moved jobs, houses... but after each long break in the build, when the fire and free time hit me, I come back to Vans Airforce and find the same level of excitement, care, veteran willingness to help others, and more and more build logs with unbelievable levels of love and energy and detail poured into them.

I can't wait to be done with my 10 and fly it for the first time, sure. This has been one of my life's major projects, and there is no way I could have gotten this far without all of you.

So THANK YOU ALL! I can't wait to meet more of you in person and show off this crazy project that everyone here has participated in in one way or another. You're amazing!

 

Easy setup paint screen ...Jeff Dingbaum

I was trying to cut down on overspray when I pull out the paint gun. I ran to harbor freight and got the tarp for less than $15, walmart shower curtain rings for about $1 and some 1/2" electrical conduit for about $12. I had the j hooks, but you can get them at your favorite big box home improvement store. It took me less than 1/2 hour to put in the j hooks, run the conduit and hang the tarp. I took it down after I was done and it took me all of 5 minutes to take down and 5 minutes to fold it up. Didn't have any overspray that I could see.

 

Houston area monthly lunch (May 2022) ...this Saturday.

Heyo folks! The third Saturday draws near, so let's sit down and get some food and chat handled. This time we'll rotate back to Hooks for burgers at the Aviator's Grill.

When: Saturday, 5-21, 11:30 AM
Where: Aviator's Grill at Hooks airport (KDWH)

[ed. Added to the VAF Calendar. v/r,dr]

 

On Kitplanes

 

 

5/16/2022.  Issue #5,570.
   Need an ATP-rated G-550/450 or EMB-505 SIC? ...I'm here.

RV-8 and the 2022 Condition Inspection ...Steve Rush

I just finished this year's condition inspection. It took much longer than usual, but I knew it would as I was doing more work than usual. At least I didn't miss very much good flying weather while I was down. The whole story is linked below. If nothing else, it should be a sure-fire cure for insomnia.

 

Exhaust System -14

Page 48-03

I have 2 of the EX-00004E
I have 6 of the EX-00004B
I have 2 of the EX-00004G

I only see where I use...

1 of the EX-00004E
2 of the EX-00004B
I of the Ex-00004G


Am I missing something? Are there more supports?

 

Rivet callouts on 10-13 bottom skin - check your lengths before setting! ...-14

...on page 10-13 it states AN426AD3-3.5 rivets for all of those bottom skin holes.

Thing is, the page has been modified to include the SB shear clips, which adds another .025 thickness and there's no way you properly set a 3.5 rivet through that much aluminum... well, no way Im going to properly set it. I ended up messing these holes up kind of bad and went with 1097 4-4.

Just be sure to check the length of these 4 rivets before you set them and have to make a mess yourself.

 

My RV Weekend

 

Tail support for my -7A

I'm going to be adding the Super Tracks and to do that I need to move my ELT antenna back about 10" and to do that I need to get in the tail cone and to do that I need a tail stand to keep the tail from crashing to the ground.

So I priced some on AS and they were way more than I wanted to pay. After poking about on the interwebs, I came up with this:

A $35 Harbor Freight grinder stand, some eyebolts, and 3/8" pipe & fittings from Home Depot aviation supply. I didn't even have to drill the grinder stand, just used the existing holes. It would have been a bit simpler if HD had a 8" long nipple but they didn't so I put the coupling on one end and just screw the 6" nipple into that when I hook it to the plane.

 

Metal found in oil screen

I did a oil change today and found this metal in the oil screen. The engine now has about 42 hours on it and the metall is not ferrous, look to be brass but can't say for sure.

Any thoughts as what this could be?

Edit: when you look at the picture up close, one side is serrated and rather uniformly and the other side is smooth.

 

RV Gathering in Germany

I am a member of the RV community in Germany. I built a 7 that is flying now for two years.

When it comes to RV's you guys in north America seem to be much better organized with all the Fly-ins and EAA chapters in the states etc.

In Europe we are much less connected with each other but we want to improve the situation. We want to perform a Vans Gathering beginning of June at Hildesheim-Germany.

Here's the link: https://rv-pilots.eu/#upcomingevents

Would it be ok to make an announcement on your web site so that more people in the European countries get aware of the event?

Best Regards

Kay Stecklum

[ed. The VAF Calendar is always open for business to promote RV events.  These get put on the front page starting 60 days before the event.  Worded another way, if your RV event is posted in the VAF Calendar it will be on the front page here starting two months before.  Feel free to use it!  v/r,]

 

-3B Update ...David Paule

 

High Oil Temp

Let's talk Oil Temperature in RV-12 with 912ULS

I recently discovered a crack in the muffler and was able to find an exact replacement exhaust system with only 70TT. Exhaust system is identical to original that I just replaced and it's in pristine condition. My 12 is an early SN with muffler located close behind the oil cooler.

Rotax originally allowed using Mobil 4T 10W40 Full Synthetic Oil. I continue to use this oil and now have 750TT with no problem.

With original exhaust I would sometimes see 240F oil temp in climb on a hot day. With new exhaust I see 250F oil temp at 85F OAT. Both CHT and EGT are relatively unchanged at ~ 200F and ~1290F.

I am in contact with Mobil Oil tech support and also Rotax with no definitive answers yet. They say they'll get back to me in a couple of days, but could be like telling a child "later for sure".

I've been searching the internet (I know... not good idea) and see automotive recommends 230-260F oil temps and I also see where Full Synthetic Oils can tolerate 300F.

250F is approx. mid-range yellow arc on Dynon D180 with Van's preset limits for Oil Temp.

I observe that oil pressure does not fall off at the high oil temp.

My question... what are max oil temps observed in RV-12 with Rotax 912ULS?

Thank you in advance

 

We Got Oil Pressure ...cgeyman milestone

Took several crank attempts on preoiling the pressure sensor- likely had to fill the filter first- then came gushing out sensor line. Quick connect to the kavlinko sensor and we got oil pressure- getting closer to real start. Pretty darn exciting.

 

-9 Status Report ...PilotjohnS

Sanding windscreen fairing. I made a sanding block use my french curve from high school and belt sander. I used aeropoxy and the stuff is pretty hard and sands well. Next step will be to smooth edges and start filling outside to smooth contour.

The sanding block allows me to sandxat an angle and match the desired curve.

I thought I was building a metal airplane.

 

 

5/13/2022.  Issue #5,569.
 
Wishing you and yours a happy, safe and RV-filled weekend.
   Need an ATP-rated G-550/450 or EMB-505 SIC? ...I'm here.
 

Not Quite the weekend, but close enough...Daniel McCaffery

This Weekend marked the final weekend I had to study for my final skills checkoff for the semester of RN school. Today, I was able to finally get back in to shop for some one on one time with my RV-8 project!

 

2550 Hour Report ...Pete Howell

9er-Pop-Hotel turned 2550 on the hobbs flying back from South Bend to see Mom the other day! So I drained the oil after landing and went back the next day and cleaned the K&P filter and Suction screen, scoped the valves, and checked to see if she still has any compression the cylinders.

The filter had the usual carbon flakes that crush between the fingers and the screen had bigger chunks of the same. The filter magnet had a bit of ferrous dust. Cold compressions were 72,74,78,76. Plugs were dry and tannish in color. I added 1 Qt over the 50 hours, .5 at 35 hours and rest at 42 hours - she always burns a bit towards the end of the oil life.

My setup is a carbed O-320, dual EI, I run almost all 91 mogas and am LOP 90% of the time. On the trip to South Bend she ran great - at 9500 on the way down I was 149KTAS at 5.9-6.1 GPH. I run 20W-50 XC but no idea if it makes a difference.

Here are the new valve pics:

 

With Autopilot on right wing sits lower.

Whenever, I have Autopilot on, either using a NAV, heading or track the axes (tilt) of the aircraft is slightly lower on the Starboard wing (slightly higher port wing).

However, with the Autopilot not engaged the aircraft is level.

Any suggestions for the cause and correction would be appreciated.

 

Busted Tailwheel Chain Clip Solution ...DanH on the road

They can be safety wired. Or given a flotation test and replaced with:


 

D-180 Oil Temp Sensor - Can't Change Temp Limits

I have legacy RV-12 with Dynon D-180 EFIS. I want to modify some of the Oil Temp Sensor settings for green, yellow, and red bands. I get message "Using Custom Engine Display Settings" for the Oil Temp Sensor. Other sensors allow operator changes.

Does anyone know a workaround for this?

 

4-40 Countersink size?

What size countersink cutter for the 4-40 screw callout in Section 42 page 1?

 

 

5/12/2022.  Issue #5,568.
 
The Fri edition might be pushed out at a non-standard time - dynamic schedule.  v/r,dr
   Need an ATP-rated G-550/450 or EMB-505 SIC? ...I'm here.
 

Got my RV Grin Today! ...Michela

I got my own RV Grin today flying my dad's airplane for the first time

My dad built this RV-9A & finished it last year. It hadn't flown since June 2021 before he passed away, so I got a condition inspection done by a local A&P a month or 2 ago.

It fired right up today! I am so thankful to RVbySDI for coming out to help me get it started & fly with me! It handled so well, & I had an absolute blast even though it was super hot outside lol... I will definitely need some more training before I'm signed off for insurance & comfortable enough to fly by myself. I'm excited we chose to keep this in the family

Also don't judge me for wearing a Ran's shirt while flying a Van's <g>

 

More from the My RV Weekend Thread ...various



 

RV-7 #75069 ...a new RV builder in San Antonio, TX

Started building an empennage kit of RV-7. Made some progress working on the vertical stabilizer.

And this is my damaged front spar assembly for the vertical stabilizer:

Lesson? Don't try to fix what is not broken ;^)

 

Elevator Balancing Mass ...an alternative approach (DanH)

Forget nutserts for this job. Wait until after paint and permanently attach the necessary mass.  This is a stack of primed and painted steel plates attached with five 5/32 SS pulled rivets.

 

Wiring Fundamental Videos

Several new wiring videos added in the last day on Garmin's YT.

 

 

5/11/2022.  Issue #5,567.
 
The Thu and Fri editions might be pushed out at non-standard times - dynamic schedule for the next 72.  v/r,dr
   Need an ATP-rated G-550/450 or EMB-505 SIC? ...I'm here.
 

Windshield Milestone ...motodave

Glad to have the windshield installed and "framed". Lots on fiberglass and sanding... Mine is Sika bonded as is the canopy.

 

Tom- TS FLIGHTLINES - Update

Good afternoon everyone. I just wanted to give a quick update on what's going on with Tom.

He had an unexpected medical procedure over the weekend and is recovering and resting. His medical team, as well as I, have been trying to get him to keep off his phone as much as possible. He is in good spirits and will be back up and running soon. I know he misses talking to builders every day.

If anyone has been awaiting a response to an email from him, this is why it is a bit delayed.

Aircraftspecialty@gmail.com is fully monitored and emails to that address are being responded to with normal lead times.

Thank you for your understanding,
Steve

 

7A Update ...Mark Rowe

Getting closer by the day !
I'm getting closer to wrapping up my plenum using a stock Vans cowl. Little more work to do around the bottom side of the inlets where they intersect the cooling ramps.

 

Pacific to Atlantic

I did Santa Catalina Island (KAVX) to Newport News Virginia (KPHF) by way of the Grand Canyon and everything in between. Andy are you bringing the twins to Idaho?

Having trouble posting the Grand Canyon picture, so imagine a really big hole with lots of rocks.

 

RE: Back Seat Throttles ...FitzRX7

There's was a F-16 accident where the pilot ended up ejecting after banging a throttle-shaped indent in his metal suitcase that had slid infront of the rear throttle when it was at idle. I have a similar setup to DanH, however I have it attached up front with a cotter pin and remove and slide back the rear throttle rod when not in use. Just my 2 cents!

 

Garmin Pilot 10.7.4   

Vid on new features

Garmin Pilot 10.7, for Apple mobile devices, introduces the ability to display NOTAMs on the map for taxiway and apron closures, enhancements to airspace and airport depiction on the dynamic map when zooming, raw NOTAM text decoding, and the ability to annotate maps. Additionally, support for the Stratux ADS-B receiver is now available.


 

Bending ...RV8JD PIREP

My RV-8 has the WD-715-1 wing tips (not sure what the -14 has) and they deform slightly in-flight as shown in the pic below. After 1170 hours there is no cracking in the paint or the glass.

 

Question: tips for the elevator and rudder

I haven't asked many questions here as I have a few A&P's to ask generic aircraft questions. However, this one is a bit of a stumper at the moment.

Question: when to install the tips for the elevator and the rudder?

The stabilizers are pretty easy: whenever.

The control surfaces are a bit different. There is a need to balance them by drilling (assuming here - nowhere near this step at the moment) out some of the led to balance the control surface.

So - allow the tip to be removed before final install post first flight (or whenever the balancing happens)? Or go for the fiberglass now, drill out as necessary and then patch the glass later?

Mostly just thinking this through at the moment. Just the latest problem to work on this adult 3D puzzle with a zillion spendy pieces.

 

 

5/10/2022.  Issue #5,566.
 
I updated the donations list to nearly real time over the weekend. Thank you again if you help support this site with a yearly donation. The margins are tight between profit and loss with any small business, so Susie and I really do appreciate those who help out. We're trying our hardest to bring you a quality product.
  Apologies for the commercial - I think it's the second of the year.  I hate 'um too.
   Need an ATP-rated G-550/450 typed Contract SIC? ...I'm here.

 

My RV Weekend ...various





 

 

cgeyman -9A Status Report

Final wiring
Got seats in. Now just engine sensor wiring to the garmin system. Close to first engine start. Pretty exciting.

 

New RV-6

Vern Darley (L) issues Airworthiness documents to builder Roy Lindsey in Clanton,Al

 

DanH's RV-8 Rear Seat Throttle ...a pic

 

Light Up

Out of the blue....in Kitplanes
By Myron Nelson -May 9, 20220

When I first started construction on my RV-10 in 2007, old-school incandescent lights were making their way out of the market and LEDs were just coming in.

 

Engine Stumble Switching Tanks

On my RV-10 I had a recent engine stumble that I'm trying to wrap my head around. After fueling we took off on the first flight of the day from northern CA eastbound and climbing though 17,000' I switched from left to right tank. As soon as I moved the handle the engine quit so I promptly rotated the fuel selector back and she came back to life. We decided to make a precautionary landing nearby to check things out and upon landing ran up the engine on both tanks and couldn't duplicate the problem, of course.

I'm running EFII System32 which has a recirculating fuel line that maintains constant fuel pressure to each injector and a return line to the same tank. There is no engine driven fuel pump but rather a primary and secondary electric pump, one of which is operating at all times. When this event happened the system operated properly switching from pump 1 to pump 2 when it detected the fuel pressure drop. We checked the tank vents, refueled, ran her up thoroughly and decided to continue our trip. No further hiccups.

So, the question is, who's got a theory as to why this happened? Did an air bubble form just prior to the fuel selector in the unused tank feed that hit the system when I switched tanks? Perhaps if I hadn't have switched back to the left tank so quickly after the engine stumble it would have cleared. By the way, I don't have any hot tunnel issues so I don't think heat would have been a factor. I do have a bit higher than average vibration issues and am having the prop balanced soon. Could a small amount of water become frozen in the right fuel line? This was about 25 minutes into the flight and the OAT was 20F at altitude. The day prior I had flown 2.5 hours from my home base to CA and used both tanks doing it. I also make a point to make sure I run up the engine from both tanks before departing so this wasn't the first time it had run off the right tank that day. I had checked a fuel sample from the tank drains after fueling that morning and didn't find water. I've since learned, by the way, that the Andair fuel selector is designed so that there is virtually no "dead spot" between positions and have verified this on the ground.

Any ideas? Other than the PTSD I now have every time I switch tanks, I haven't even had a hint of a problem since.

 

Vlad Milos Wing Wiring Shots

 

JeremyL's Countersink Fiberglass Method

I don't know who needs to see this, but if you are trying to decide how to countersink fiberglass and don't want to destroy your metal countersinks, then this little tool is just the ticket. The perma-grit tungsten carbide stone is worth every penny (about $32 US with shipping from the UK). I purchased the 100 degree with no nipple, but they have nipples of various sizes. Makes quick work and a nice neat countersink. Perfect for tinnerman washers and the countersink needed for the flush rivets in the zip tip inspection panel. The 'no nipple' allows me to countersink any hole

 

RV-7A Status Report ...Larry Larson

Plenum. Finally. It fits. Slips right into the baffle boxes. A lot of work went into this. It looks like heck at the moment and needs some minor trimming to get the inlet gap perfect. Easy stuff. Tormorrow, I can finish sand and prep then apply the final carbon fiber skin and polish it. Should be really nice.

 

Question about Page 26-2 Part F-1066C

Hi Guys I have been priming the parts of the fuselage bulkheads and while those parts dry I started collecting the parts for the Chapter 26 "Mid Fuse Mid ribs and Bottom Skins". I have a question and thought one of you might have the answer, otherwise I will wait until Van's support opens later today. Page 26-2 Step 1 Instructs me to break apart the F-1066C Reinforcing angles. I can not find part F-1006C. I have a part listed as F-1066C-2 which is a reinforcing angle but has holes for nutplates and does not resemble the part shown on the plans. I have gone through my Fuselage inventory sheet and do not see a part F-1066C listed anywhere. I have F-1066A, and F-1066B, and F-1066C-2 as I said before.

Am I missing something? I do not see this part listed in on the inventory sheet so I wonder if there has been a change or something else I am not aware of?

 

5/9/2022.  Issue #5,565.
   Need an ATP-rated G-550/450 typed Contract SIC? ...I'm here.

Another new owner grin ...b_raf

Picked up a new to me RV-6 last week. It was an amazing flight from KBDN back to KOLM while averaging over 30mpg! Bonus points is my 4y/o son thinks it's cool but was a little disappointed the glass panel couldn't stream youtube.

 

 

How to remove switches

I need to remove switches for panel upgrade. I can't determine the manufacturer, in turn can't determine how these detach. They are individually installed, not a bracket of sorts with all attached. Thanks

 

Enclosed Pressure Plenum Reply ...wirejock

Lots of them. To be clear, the baffles don't get replaced. Traditional baffles are aluminum with a strip of material used ti seal the space against the top cowl. The plenum is basically a sealed cover attached to the baffles. I just finished fitting mine. Still needs some tweaks and final carbon fiber layer to make it purdy. Mine was a pretty big modification. The inlets are part of the bottom cowl. Top cowl is more like a cover. Plenum has inlets matching the cowl and will be sealed with neoprene sleeves.

 

IO-360-M1B Second Heat Muff

So this is part of the experimenting in experimental aviation.

Last year I ordered and received my exhaust system directly from Vetterman Exhaust. When talking to Clint about my engine, a IO-360-MIB, he said a second heat muff was not available due to the the M1B configuration.

BUT, it so happened he was working on a prototype second heat muff and did I want to give it a try. Heck yes I wanted to give it a try. I live at over 4000' in Joseph, Oregon and I'll take all the heat I can get.

Well, I'm finally installing the exhaust and the second heat muff is in place. The exact way to connect the two muff outlets hasn't been figured out yet but here's some photos anyway.

AND yes, that is what you think it is on the # 4 exhaust bend

EDIT: PS- how does one free up the ball joints on these exhaust? It's my understanding they should have some movement...mine are as tight as a drum.

 

Go Around button

I have a GTN 650, an AFS 5500 touchscreen EFIS and a Dynon autopilot control panel.

The current method of activating a missed approach has too many button pushes. I have to execute the Go Around on the GTN 650 for lateral tracking guidance to the MAP but ALSO engaging a vertical mode with the autopilot.

Is there a way to have ONE BUTTON to execute a Go Around then just add power like Garmin does? The Dynon HDX Manual talks about it but not a lot of specifics on how to install it or wire it.

 

7A Rebirthing Status Report ...kentlik

 

Back Seat Ventilation ...DanH PIREP

What Carl said. Build a cover for the rear stick well and run the hose to a good eyeball vent there.

No cover creates a control jam risk.

 

High CHT, IO540

I'm battling high CHTs on Take-OFF and Cruise. The engine is still in the break in phase (10hrs TT). Cyl #1, #2, #5 and #6 are running hot.
The plan is:

1) for cyl. #1 & #2 to cut down the standard Vans air deflectors (dams) in front
2) do the recommended baffle modification on cyl #5
3) What to do with #6 ??
-it peaks first, so I assume it's the leanest cylinder of all
-should I swap the injectors with #3 ?
-or go for a GAMI injector replacement
-or is it too early to address the problem with TT 10hrs ?

Btw, oil consumption is already stable, no adding of oil was required since last 4.5hrs.

Below is a table with CHT & EGT in cruise, full rich.

 

From Dynon

 

A tip for future builders

So got through the tab bends OK, only to mess up the match drilling. When I went to match drill them, I must have been squeezing the tabs together a bit too much and ended up pulling the lower skin out of alignment a couple of mm.

My recommendation to future builders would be to insert one of the foam ribs near the closeout tabs (avoid drilling into it) so you get the shape/distance right when you match drill them. Or make sure you use a straight edge on both the top and bottom skins to keep them properly aligned with the elevator skins as you drill.

I have a note into Vans to see what they say is the best course of action.

Any thoughts on best way to fix this?

 

New GRT Panel ...LJ Smith

Just about done!

 

RV10 engine build

I bought a IO-540-J4A5 narrow deck engine for my RV10 project. The engine was turbo charged (8.5:1 compression) in it former application but will run normally aspirated in the 10. The engine was a prop strike, (light strike if that's possible) so it must be torn down and inspected per the AD. The engine had 808hrs on it SMOH. This is the first aircraft engine I've worked on. I've built lots of automotive & diesel engines.

First impressions, these things are built like a tank, heavy like a diesel. Heavy rods, huge pistons, impressive! I see why they are capable of running at high H.P. demands for long periods. It appears I lucked up (mater of opinion) and got chromed cylinders. I like that the rings wear vs. the cylinders.

Everything will go out to be checked and inspected. I intend to go back with the standard, new rings, mains & rod bearings, and anything required by the AD. I will not be servicing any of the other rotating accessory as I will be using the EFI II system with an automotive alternator.

Questions that I've found different answers on. 1. Re-use the through bolts or replace? 2. Re-use the cylinder hold down nuts? 3. Go ahead and replace the pistons? (they're relatively cheap) 4. Chrome cylinders, how to prepare them for the new rings?

Please don't flame the new guy... I'm learning here and just looking for advice.

 

Jump Start My Heart

Saturday morning I was 3/4 of the way to the hangar to change the oil and rotate the tires on the Jeep (and wipe the RV-6 down) when the sim called and asked if there was any way I could do my Phenom 300 Part 91 recurrent oral and checkride starting in one hour (was scheduled for the next day). Sure. In shorts, T-shirt and running shoes I turned direct. After 290+ seat support sessions you know what's coming, so I thought I would track my heart rate again and see how it compared to the original sim-qual initial two years ago. On that check ride my watch called out 'High Heart Rate' during the single engine go around. LOL. "I've noticed your heart rate is abnormally high and you don't seem to be exercising. Is everything alright?"

Pro Tip: Turn off notifications if it's your RV's first flight (or first jet initial) <g>.

No big whoop this time around. Old hat now. The two bumps over on the right side are V1 cuts that required the use of meat servos. Crawling out you go up 20 stairs - there's 100bpm :-). Good for another year in the sim (or contract SIC if anyone needs me on occasion).

Training works, apparently. ;^)

Crazy hot and sticky in DFW this weekend. Yuck. Still need to change the oil.

click to enlarge

And ended up sleeping pretty good that evening <g>

 

 

5/6/2022.  Issue #5,564.
  Wishing you and yours a happy, safe and RV-filled weekend.
   Need an ATP-rated G-550/450 typed Contract SIC? ...I'm here.


Grinnin' in my new RV-4

I had a friend ferry it up to VA from GA last month, and after a weekend of transition training out in Texas with Bruce Bohannon, felt confident for my first flight. That was two days ago and I haven't stopped smiling.

Thanks to all in VAF who've assisted me through the selection and purchase of this amazing little machine!

 

Countersinking the hinge

Sorry, had a couple of questions on the hinge ...

First, I dimpled the box and lid before I did much research on the hinge and realized I should not have dimpled the box since I was going to countersink the flush rivets.

But when I went to countersink the hinge for the box, the eyelets are in the way of the countersink cage. They're even in the way of dimple dies if I wanted to dimple it. How the **** do you get in there? Is there a special cage, like a half cage I could buy, or would I need to cut it away, or grind my precious dimple dies? Or maybe I don't have the hinge on correctly and that's what's causing the issue?

The second question I had was around dimpling and what is a normal amount of distortion. I watched Paul Dye's video on setting up the squeezer for dimpling (leave enough room where the dies meet, but can twist), but after squeezing it looks like there's a bit of distortion on the metal. Is this normal? Would you back off a bit, or tighten up?

Funny how much I'm in the dark on this stuff and getting more nervous by the day about this build, lol.

Any help is appreciated, also if you see anything that could have been better, would appreciate a good critique. thank you!

 

From the Mag Problem Thread

Here is the "Paschen curve" that shows how far a spark might jump in air. At say 20,000 volts a spark can jump 3 times farther at 10,000 feet than sea level. Interestingly this is only the case for atmospheric pressures. as you go higher and the curve reverses in in a vacuum the distance the spark will travel decreases.

 

Mothership RV-14 Canopy Gas Strut News

We recently made a change to the gas strut used in the RV-14/14A kit to a higher force version. These struts hold the tip-up canopy open when the strut is extended. In high-wind conditions, the original strut at times may not have quite enough holding strength, and customers requested a higher-strength strut.

Kits shipping now include the new struts, and the original version part is no longer available to purchase. This is an improved part with a higher holding force. The new part is a direct replacement for the original version, and owners of existing aircraft/kits with the original version may optionally purchase and install the new struts, which are available on the Van's Aircraft Web Store.

 

RVs in Uniform ...a selection







 

 

5/5/2022.  Issue #5,565.
   Need an ATP-rated G-550/450 typed Contract SIC? ...I'm here.

-14 Stick in a -4 ...Scott Hersha PIREP

The RV8 forward stick is identical to the RV4 front stick, and I've used the RV14 stick on my RV4. I cut off the upper part of the RV4 (same as RV8) stick and inserted the RV14 stick into the the lower cut off portion. It doesn't fit snugly, so I made a shim out of 4130 chromoly. I used a permatex product that is meant to be used in a situation like this - without the need to use any solid fastener, but I didn't trust it completely, so I also drilled holes for two #10 bolts. On both of my RV8's I've made an offset stick using the cut and weld technique, and that worked, but wasn't as elegant or quite as good ergonomically in my opinion as using the RV14 curved stick.

 

Thermos Mod Snorkel to FM200 ...rv8ch

I used an old thermos bottle/cup that happened to have the right size, then connected with hose. These bottles can be bought anywhere - they are really common.

My snorkel is ugly, NSFL, so only click if you want to be shocked.

What I have learned later is that I needed to make the air flow "straighter" at the exit of the snorkel for the FM200 as it only has one place that it detects air pressure. Turbulent flow at the entrance of the FM200 is a "bad thing" and can cause "big problems". This air pressure sensor has a direct impact on how much fuel is distributed, so imagine turbulence causes very low or even negative pressure. Bad.

There are a few ways to make the flow less turbulent, the best is to just make the snorkel better. I didn't do this, I used an air flow straightener at the exit of the snorkel, not shown in my pictures. I might have some pics somewhere, but can't find them now.

I've read that Van's and AFP are working together to make sure that the snorkel flows well, so there might be some helpful hints coming from them. Might be worth a call to Van's or Don at AFP to take advantage of what they have learned - which I think is very significant.

Don offered to do a flow check on my snorkel, which was really appreciated. I have not (yet) taken him up on that offer. With my air flow straightener it's working really well, despite the ugliness of my snorkel.

Good luck with your snorkel, happy to clarify anything if it can help.

 

-10 Door Hinges

...a few ways builders have tackled seals and hinges





 

Granbury, TX Flyin This Saturday

....there will be many RVs in attendance.

Check out the EAA 983 flyin this Saturday at Pecan Plantation in Pecan. Weather forecast looks good, so come join us.

more info

 

What is this? ... -14

I was inventorying my SB fuselage kit yesterday and found this in hardware bag 3062. I can't find any mention to it. Anyone know what it is and where it is to be used? Seems to be an air line connector of some sort.

 

Rudder skin wrinkle ...-12

I have a wrinkle in the lower trailing edge skin of my rudder. It has never been hit, or hit anything. The first time I saw it on the right side I thought the rudder had swung in the wind and hit the stop maybe causing the TE to travel further. I pulled the last 3 rivets and got behind the skin and straighten it out. Since then I have always used a gust lock. At that time the left side was not affected. It is now several hundred hours later and both sides are wrinkled. The rudder is stiff, I can't flex it to move the wrinkle. I can't figure out what could be causing this.

 

 

5/4/2022.  Issue #5,564.
   Need an ATP-rated G-550/450 typed Contract SIC? ...I'm here.

Tornado season is here!

Hey All-

We had a tornado Friday night a couple of miles from my house here in Wichita.

No damage at my place, but stuff was really trashed a mile or so from here. people lost their homes, cars, lots of stuff. Really fortunate that nobody was killed.


Terry Shortt (RV-7) photo

So anyway, I was sure glad I got builders insurance last month.

I debated on whether it was too soon since the chances of anything happening before I move stuff to the airport seemed pretty remote. You can bet I was happy I pulled the trigger when I saw what was going on with the weather!

For you guys who are in the same boat, I suggest you at least check out your options when the cost of replacing all the bits and pieced gets uncomfortably big.  I went with Leah at Gallagher and the whole process was really easy.

Also, just an observation on the anatomy of a tornado- A mid-size cell went over my house with some small hail and heavy rain. I was watching the radar on my weather app and it showed what you would expect, green with yellow and red churn inside. Something you would look at and obviously stay the heck away from...But that wasn't the tornado cell.

The tornado cell came through about 1/2 hour later. While it was breathing in, the radar return was actually quite small. Frankly, the kind of thing that you would look at and think that you could obviously pick your way around no problem.

In fact you can see in the second picture below that people were doing just that, just like every day. My friend's kid works line crew at Jabara and took the picture. That plane had just landed and was taxiing in.

No great revelation here, just something to think about. It's easy to feel pretty bullet proof with all the forecasting technology and real time weather we have access to now, but it's not foolproof...

Pix 1 is the view from my back porch.

 

Request help with mag problem

Yesterday, my left Slick mag failed an inflight mag check forcing a turnback on a Pilots N Paws mission. This is an impulse coupled mag.

Runup at 1800 rpm on the ground showed no problems.
During an inflight mag check, the engine would "hiccup" every so often. At first, I thought it was a jolt from turbulence, but the frequency increased to more than once a minute. It seemed to be a split second complete interruption of power, rather that a misfire on one or more cylinders. The power interruption was so brief that no change in EGT or airspeed was noticed. Changes of the mixture lever position, switching tanks, and turning on the boost pump had no effect.

Plugs are nice and clean (properly gapped, also) and resistances check OK (two around 1300 ohms and two around 1900 ohms). The ignition cable tester showed a spark in the window, but every so often, the spark skipped a beat and then returned. Same result on all four plug leads. This is my first time using a cable tester which was bought new. I only have a half page of instructions that I downloaded. If anyone has experience with cable testers, please chime in or contact me via email.

Am borrowing a set of plugs to test with today. It's a very long shot, and I expect no change, but it's way easier than pulling the mag. After that, I'll try disconnecting the p-lead to investigate a possible switch (standard keyed Off, L, R, Start switch) problem. I'll be careful with the hot mag.

If no solution after this, I'll be pulling the mag, and trying to find someone local that can test the mag at high rpm. If that fails,I'll be sending it out.

Any hints, advice, personal experience, or suggestions will be welcomed. I'd rather not pull the mag if it's not necessary.

 

Update on 7/7A HS Question ...swift12

So I got it a lot better. I think the bend radius of the hs710/714 pieces was one of the issues. Also I might have bent slightly outside of the bend. I made a solid ali former with a 3mm radius. Ran it up to the bend line and there was a small gap close to the bend. I used a hardwood block and gave each one a blow which helped. It appears the bend radius are tighter on 702 and hs0001. Also hs0001 we're both at 6.8 degrees from the factory so I eased those back to 6 degrees. No matter how hard I try they don't nest perfectly all the way to the bend but do appear to pull in very close which I believe riveting will fix. I resisted unbending and rebending... just tweaking here and there.

 

Recent Transmit background issue

So the other day I taxied from the T-hangar across the field (towered airport) to a local FBO to have them do a compression check. All radio communications with the tower/ground controller were fine, no issues.

When I picked it up the next day and called ground to request taxi back to the T-hangars, I noticed a sort of squeal/buzzing in my headset when I keyed the mic to request taxi clearance. It wasn't super loud, but enough so that the Ground controller mentioned it to me in his reply. ODD, it wasn't there the day before.

Anyway, today I removed the cowl to check for any loose or broken connections to the alternator or plug wires since it just had the compression test done. Note: The pitch of the noise goes up and down with rpm. Anyway, I found nothing apparent in the engine area. Next I did a few transmit tests outside my hangar and noticed that it only occurs when I use the front seat push to talk button/trigger regardless of if its running or not running, BUT, transmission is perfectly clear with no noise whatsoever if I used the rear seat push to talk on the rear stick. (RV-8)

So, seems I have narrowed it down to the front stick's push to talk as a culprit, but so very odd that it showed up after picking it up from the fbo.

Sorry for the long winded explanation but what might be a good place to start looking into... wiring or ground to the front sticks connections? Is the switch on it's way out ?? I have Infinity Sticks with the trigger as the transmit.

Thank you in advance for any thoughts on how to fix it.

 

Dennis Rhodes Rudder Lock

Here s a rudder gust hold mechanism I built for my RV9. Uses compression springs and velcrow into fwd of the spar. Can't miss it if you plan to fly. It folds up to about 16 to 18 inches in length for storage. The triangle on the back end was possible gust lock for stick. Yes my rudder pedals have an extra plate welded to the Vans pedals to help avoid getting on the brakes.

 

Jvon811's RV License Plates

I've been the RV-4 guy in two states now. Just moved to Georgia about 6 months ago (Happy wife, happy life etc) and got the Plate there too!

 

 

5/3/2022.  Issue #5,563.
   Need an ATP-rated G-550/450 typed Contract SIC? ...I'm here.

RV-7 at Aero Expo in Friedrichshafen Germany ...Marcel Heijmans

I've just finished my RV-7 (PH-MNX), with a ULPower Engine (520iSA) and an Airmaster C/S prop (first flight January 26th, 2022).
I was honored that ULPower asked me to fly to Friedrichshafen to present my plane in their Booth at the Aero Expo.

Talked to a lot of RV builders and potential RV builders who liked my setup of the ULPower Engine. I also learned a ton of the technical guys of ULPower, who had some interesting improvements on my installation. It's great to work together a few days with engine experts. Only wish I knew all this before hand.

Also this was the first time a did some longer distances, flying from the Netherlands to Germany/Switzerland, was about 320nm, it took me 2.5 hours with 2600 rpm and 23" map at 5500 feet (weather was tough), cruising at 150 kts (TAS) and using 8.2 gallon/hour.
After talking to the ULPower guys on the way back, same setup, but with 2400 rpm and 24" MAP (only 3500 feet, because weather was worse) 7.8 gallon/hour. They also advised me to change the air intake, so it will pick up colder air and change the position of the pressure intake of the ECU. My goal is to reach 7 gallon/hr with 150 kts on 8000 ft.

 

Flying animals

Hi Everyone, I wanted to ask for information. I have heard of organizations and people donating their time to fly pets to owners or new owners. I am looking into doing something like this for (don't hate me) a cat for my wife.

As a someone who did multiple combat tours and lost good friends I understand the power an animal can bring to the healing. I have one that helped me through dark times myself.... Since retiring from the military and settling down my wife has since gone through some life changing events and had a few years now of some dark times. I was looking into getting her a special feline, problem is the breeder is located in North Dakota and I live in Alabama.

With that can someone post any websites or contacts for groups or individuals that may offer a service like this? I don't expect it to be free but would love to make this happen.

For those that maybe wondering, its a special breed of cat, they call them munchkins, crazy money for a dwarf cat but like I said sometimes the benefits are more important.

 

My RV Weekend ....more


 

Titan O-370

Q: Can anyone who has installed a Titan 370 share some of the issues you may have had in regards to doing the firewall forward? Making the engine choice on my RV-8 build in the next two months and Titan has the most HP per $$ after all the cost increases.

I just want to know what mods other than the baffling on the tapered cylinders builders have run into.

A:


 

Flap pushrod Status ...cgeyman

Made the small fuselage cut for the flap pushrod- may have to adjust when all hooked up. Also finishing wingtips.

 

May/Jun Issue Now Online

 

Refreshing An Old Thread - Conduit Choices

This is a "refresh" of Alex Peterson's post in 2007 about using Tenite Butryate tubing as a wiring conduit. He did not attach pics - which I think may be helpful.

The 1/2 & 3/4" diameters, with .032" wall thickness make excellent conduit for wire runs (+ the fact that it is clear - can see everything). Very light weight: 6' x 1/2" o.d. x .032" wall thickness = 2.4 oz

It is "rigid" in the sense that it is relative straight, but can be bent, either slightly, cold or to a tighter radius when heated.

The side wall can easily be penetrated for wire inclusion at intermediate points.

Comes in 6' lengths and can be coupled with PVC rigid tube.

YMMV - But this is pretty good stuff!

 

 

5/2/2022.  Issue #5,562.
 
I had the pleasure of giving three rides Saturday around dinner time to some of our son's friends from college.  Pictured below L/R Melanie, Sophia and Reagan post flights.  Melanie got to see three sunsets/sunrises with some step-up climbs. They've already hinted at coming back in a few weeks and doing this again.  I would like that <g>.
   Need an ATP-rated G-550/450 typed Contract SIC? ...I'm here.

 

FIRST FLIGHT: Triumphs, Trials and Tribulations ...goatflieg

 

Congratulations Ben

Ben Poffenberger in his RV-4 competed in Primary category at the Sebring aerobatic contest this weekend and placed 1st at his very first contest. I think Ben is also the first RV to compete this year. There are a lot of RVs out there that don't know what they are missing with the great folks that participate. Next southeast contest is in Rome, GA in two weeks.

 

Wallpaper Calendar for May

...Dylan Phelps photo of Bill Goeken

 

Fiberglassing Update ...PilotjohnS

After taking a few days off, I have started fiberglassing the wind screen fairing. I am following the excellent tips and tricks from the Osh 2021 presentations. I had visions of making a really neat layup, much like the Osh demo, but that went out the window after my first layup. I am using black tint on the first few layers so when looking from the inside thru the canopy, one would see black fiberglass. Of course, it never occurred to me to use a vinyl tape color other than black, so I am finding it hard to se the tape edge when laying down the fiberglass. It is going much slower than expected, and I am burning thru more glass than I planned.

Onward so I get upward.

 

Draker's Data Dump

Took a little time to plot my project's progress over time, grouped by subassembly. May be useful for people who haven't started yet, trying to guess the amount of work required for a (typical?) slow-build tip-up RV-7A. I was blessed with a greater than average amount of free time available to build this, without much delay between sub-kits.

Total hours building: 2,828 (2,358.5 home, 469.5 hangar)
Calendar days from start to finish: 1,996
Days worked: 725 (591 home, 134 hangar)
Average hours per work day: 3.9
Longest day worked: 12 hours, 19-Apr-2020, avionics wiring
Most consistent building: 19-Mar-2019 through 17-Apr-2019, worked 28 out of 30 days, Baggage floor/flap area
Longest break from building: 38 days, wait for finishing and fwf kits

 

Is this correct spacer?

Can someone confirm this is the correct spacer for a Sensenich 70CM6S prop?. It seems it should have lugs for each bolt rather than 2 alignment pins?

 

Rudder gust lock ok?

I made this gust lock. I used #10-32 bolts. I made one for each side. Does anyone see a problem that i might be missing?

 

Closet shelf and furnace fan ...johnbright downdraft priming table

I used a 20" closet shelf and a discarded furnace fan.

 

My RV Weekend



 

Out of Phase 1 ...acroboy

N124F is out of Phase 1 and is now free to roam (first flight 2/7/2022). One cross country McKinney TX to Booneville AR. Several flights now with my son. Awesome! Kit 1705 only took me 32 years to complete. (Lots of work, family, and other airplanes required my time )

ECI Titan (I)OX-360
AFP Fuel Injection
Catto 3-Blade
Dynon Skyview (classic)
Dynon 2-axis autopilot
MGL-V6 Comm
Fly LEDs lighting
Oregon Aero leather seats (VERY comfy)

Cruises 162kts TAS, 8500ft, 55% power, 6.5 gal/hr. I can go faster and burn more gas, but why bother? Nice aerobatic performance, though not as effortless as my Pitts was. I can carry a 220lb passenger with full fuel which is better than I feared.

 

 

4/29/2022.  Issue #5,561.
  Wishing you and yours a happy, safe and RV=filled weekend.
   Need an ATP-rated G-550/450 typed Contract SIC? ...I'm here.


from the archives.  dr

 

RV-6 Brake hydraulic reservoir

Hello, looking to replace my gasket for my RV-6 hydraulic brake fluid reservoir. Can't find the make of the reservoir. And also would appreciate a link where I can purchase the gasket. I understand I can most likely just make one.
Thanks in advance

 

Exhaust Spring Cut-Thru

While doing Annual Condition Inspection I found a crack in the exhaust exit end of the muffler. I advertised on VAF classified thread for a used muffler and got several responses. I ended up buying a complete exhaust system with only 70TT and decided to replace the muffler and also the exhaust stacks. Several of my exhaust stacks exhibited extreme wear on the spring hooks. This condition is not easily noticed because a bead of high-temp RTV is placed over the spring loops to prevent vibration. I installed Stainless Steel springs early-on when the original springs started breaking. The springs themselves don't show much wear. My guess is the springs are harder material than the muffler hooks. My exhaust has 750TT.

 

Which one?

The aft mount trays, the steel box from Odyssey (via Vans), or the FW mount used with the 14? The 14'ers were nice enough to share their plans for FW mount. I need weight forward. It was one of the easier "incorporations" into my build. Added bonus = Battery can be lifted up or forward for removal. No additional improvisation for battery removal is needed (hopefully).

 

On Kitplanes Now...

 

Gascolator / sump screen?

Hi all - I couldn't find a part number on this guy but wondering if anyone recognizes it and whether or not it is supposed to have a screen inside it? Mine does not.

 

RV-14 Temporary Seats ...Luke D @ Classic Aero

As I mentioned a few weeks ago, we decided to offer temporary seats for customers who needed something to sit on right away until their final seats could be completed. They are now in stock.

Side Note: We understand the frustrations that long lead times can cause for our customer, and we've been working hard to reduce them. Last summer we hired two new employees to do cut out and sewing, and they are coming up to speed very well.

We are now able to ship more orders per month than we have in the past, and we are slowly starting to reduce the lead times. We are down from a high of 12 months to 11. Hopefully this will continue until we are back to a more normal schedule.

Please contact us if you have any questions.

 

 

4/28/2022.  Issue #5,560.
   Need an ATP-rated G-550/450 typed Contract SIC? ...I'm here.

New First Flights Reported on the Mothership



 

Baffle Update: agent4573

Did round 3 on baffle sealing today. Used my yet to be installed led strip lights to fill the plenum. Found a few small pinholes around the inter cylinder baffles, and a large gap on the #4 taper fin cylinder baffles. Sealed them all up with RTV. Laid up a glass angle for the temp gauge mount. I ordered a bulb type mechanical water temp gauge. Plan is to use glass/epoxy mount with fiberfrax and aluminum tape and mount the bulb in an adel clamp held in place on a long stainless bolt. It seemed slightly easier than what dan recommended because I don't have to find a 5 volt source and it has a built in gauge. I'll "calibrate" it in boiling water to see how off it is before the install. Should have more flight test data Thursday evening.

 

What wheel bearings go in my main gear wheels?

I put my Cleveland main gear wheels on my RV-6A 22 years ago. They came with my kit from Van's. I failed to note what bearings were specified for that wheel. I could pull the bearings out and look at them, but thought I would ask, "Does anybody know?"

 

F721 canopy decks. How to rivet?!

Hi everyone,

I've riveted on my canopy decks, all but the last few rivets circled in the photo are set. Access is too tight for even my small tungsten bucking bar to the last few. Anybody have any good ideas to avoid going cherry max?

 

Piston head borescope question

Been flying for 7 years and have about 350hrs on the engine, which was a brand new Lycoming YIO-360-M1B purchased through Van's. I've done the condition inspection each year, following a very detailed and thorough checklist.
I purchased a USB camera and for the first time was able to snap some pics of my piston heads.

I don't really know what I'm looking at here, so looking for some advice and comments on whether the discoloration and build-up is normal. Thanks!  --->

 

Van's RV 10, the little plane that can!

Just finished a flight from 9A0 (Lumkin County Ga) that included stops and layovers at:

KHOT (Hot Springs Ar) KCWC (Wichita Falls Tx) KSAF (Santa Fe Nm)
KIFP (Laughlin/Bullhead Az) KPRB (Paso Robles Ca) KWJF (Lancaster Ca)
KOKB (Oceanside Ca) KDNA (Dona Ana Nm) KTKI (McKinney Tx) and finally back to 9A0.

In this trip we had days with blue sky, ones with winds 40-50 knots (With a take off in head winds at those speeds), mountain flying, IFR flights, a departure from an airport with a 6400 feet DA at gross weight (still got 600 FPM climb out) days with light to moderate chops over terrain, and finally a 30 plus knot tail wind on the final flight back home (ground speed of 196 knots). Other than a flight in icing conditions (Pass on that) this was the little plane that handled it all and handled it so well. It is definitely the little plane that can. All while burning 11 GPH or less.

During my 4.5 years of building this plane I would hit those points wondering if it was worth the time, sacrifice, and frustration. After this trip, the answer is most definitely YES. So for those still building, hang in there because once you are done you have a plane that stands alone in its class. Sorry Cirrus drivers...

 

Ground speed seems too low?

I am noticing that I have poor ground speed Karma, I wonder if something is defective?

 

 

4/27/2022.  Issue #5,559.
   Need an ATP-rated G-550/450 typed Contract SIC? ...I'm here.

RV-3B Update...David Paule

I decided to install the stainless steel fuel line from the firewall to the gascolator, only to find that it didn't come close to fitting. That was one of the parts I'd made a pattern for while the dummy acrylic firewall was in place. In theory it should fit, but in practice it doesn't. And that my friends, is the difference between theory and practice. However, other things which I fit the same way, fit just fine. It's only this one part.

Incidentally, if you haven't already installed the tiny screws for the tube fittings on an Andair device, do it before you install the device. You'll be happier. I removed the gascolator, put in the screws and reinstalled it. Andair says to stake the screws and I didn't do that - I used Permatex Threadlocker Blue instead.

You may have heard that there's not much room between an RV-3 firewall and the engine. That's entirely correct.

David Howe's cowl tool is virtually essential for aligning the cowl. Wirejock, aka Larry Larson, made the necessary disc to replace the spinner. I shortened the length of the tool because my shop is too small for its full length. Here, you can see the full length tool without the disc. I later installed three length adjustment bolts in the empty hub holes - these control the cowl position so that the prop and spinner will fit (I have not ordered these yet).

 

CG

Good evening all!
Just weighed my RV7A for upcoming DAR inspection. Standard set up, IO-360 M1B, Hartzell 2 blade constant speed. Rt.wheel 431, Lt. wheel 440, nose 284. Empty CG pretty basic but how do I figure most forward CG, most aft CG?
Thanks!

 

Mold trick

I have some down time while parts cure for the plenum inlets, so I decided to try and fab a plenum for the oil cooler air supply. How to fab a twisted and turned 4" tube?
I took a 4" closed cell foam backer rod. Basically a pool noodle. Sliced pieces off. One end is cut 30*, one end 90*.
Take the slices and arrange them by stacking and rotating till the mold takes shape. Draw a line on one side and two lines on the opposite side. Number them. Spray ends with 3M 77. Reassemble lining up the alignment lines. Remove, sand to shape and layup the glass. Kinda fun and might just work.

 

It's the ears I tell you

So I had a minor medical issue a little while back, nothing serious and nothing that would prevent me from passing a medical (double ear infections that took 3 weeks to get cleared up), but I've noticed that my tolerance for the bumps is way way down. Was up the other day on a reasonably calm day and was glad I had the sick sack in my pocket. It was not an enjoyable flight. Any advice in regaining I am ability to tolerate the bumps? Or is it just time in the air and exposure to train my brain that everything's OK?

 

Be anal about sealing any leaks. ...BillL baffle PIREP

Here is some test data on my homemade plenum, James cowl, M1B stock RV7 with the exit fairing at firewall, and 4-into-exhaust pipe. I wrapped every square inch of fin that was covered by the stock baffles, plus on the barrel fins up the 1.5 inch above the crank plane. My stock intersection baffle between the cylinders on each side were huge leakers. They will fool you - my 10 friend said his were sealed well, and he is stickler, but when illuminated it showed it was not. So if it can happen to him . . .beware and careful there.

My static reference was to the static port. I have lots of data from PH I but this is one for comparison to DanH's standard test plan. And, is after I opened up my to-of-barrel wrap gap and added some flow entry straighteners. There are chutes for the front of #1 and back of #3 where the fin length goes to zero at the crank plane.

The oil cooler is stock little Niagara, but has shutters. Test data was the same with shutters open or closed.

I might call this installation extremely sealed, but not extremely restricted.

The 1/4" gap you showed between the heads, I still have them.

IO375 - -is is that a tapered fin barrel? Do you have picts of how you attached the baffles showing under the plenum?

Edit01: I looked at your website - you are using SDS Electronic ignition - to check it you could set mix, cruise, WOT, 2500 rpm, then after oil temp and speed is stabilized, just retard the timing 0.5 deg at a time and wait 2 min and watch the KIAS, do this until the speed drops. Speed reacts pretty fast to power change, CHT takes a few more minutes. A test cell would be 10 min, so just do the timing and stop when you see the speed drop a knot. Then wait to plot the CHT. This will ensure the timing is "correct" and is/not part of the issue. I think it is not the primary cause and until you can show .5 in-h2o in the lower cowl I would not look at timing at all.

 

The RV grin continues

I just bought an RV-8 from a couple of super gentlemen in the DC area and ferried it back to Las Vegas just a couple of weeks ago. The XC back was fantastic, though challenging, but the grin never stopped. I took my wife up for the first time today. She loved it. I guess I get to keep it now.

 

Snorkel, Frankensnorkel, Horz Induction B&C

Reading lots of posts about snorkel modification, cutting, glassing etc. All done to fit the B&C starter.

My question
1) Is this all custom due to all the variations of engine, FI set up, etc? Could it be produced semi custom and made to fit most applications?
2) Seems like a lot of interest in B&C + Horz induction, why has no one made an aftermarket snorkel?
3) Anyone done a flow test of the snorkel before and after modifying?

I'm building an 8A, smooth cowl, M1B with AFP FI. Given thought to swapping the supplied lightweight skytech starter with B&C.

 

 

4/26/2022.  Issue #5,558.
   Need an ATP-rated G-550/450 typed Contract SIC? ...I'm here.

'Back Country' RV-10 ...Mconner7 PIREP

I bought my -10 from a guy that liked back country flying. He used 600x6 mains and adapted the wheel pants accordingly. I am based on a grass field in Florida that is often soft in summer and have never had trouble.

I am attaching a picture of my -10 at Sulphur Creek, ID. (ID74). The takeoff from this gravel runway was at 8500' DA with two souls and 1/2 fuel. I estimate my ground roll was 1300'.

 

Bench Power Supply wiring

Friend RV'r loaned me his power supply, now to hook it up.

My plan is to input + on input side if master, - on the battery's negative post. MY WEAKEST LINK skill is Electric/Electronic. Is this ok/correct ? I have a Piper type plug installed too. Is there a problem using it to power up the panel via the 13.8 max output power supply? Time to upgrade my EFIS, and I know I'll struggle with the wiring, hence needing more than ship's battery.

 

Canopy Install PIREP ...543TB

Don't overthink it too much. I used a clip but tried to minimize the pressure on the plexi. I could not get both sides to match, but a lot of that will be hidden by the fiberglass work on the transition.


 

More from 'My RV Weekend' This Past Weekend

Weather was perfect for flying, so my son and I flew up to Columbia, CA to camp and see the gold rush town. On the flight back today, we diverted over Yosemite.

and...

 

New builder with VS-705 VStab nose rib issue

Hi all- I'm finally starting the tail build of my RV-14A. A few hours in and I already have a question for the VAF hive mind!

I'm having issues fitting the VS-705 nose rib inside the skin. It's the front part of the rib (past the notch in the flange) that's causing problems. It looks like this isn't an uncommon issue. Per some other posts on the topic I tried fluting the front of the rib to bring the front flanges in, but it's not enough.

I did manage to get everything clecoed together but I sort of had to manhandle things into place and ended up scratching up the inside of the skin quite a bit. I'm not too worried about that- I'm planning on priming and will make sure I sand/scotchbrite those scratches out. I'm primarily concerned about stresses on the skin where it wraps around the end of the rib if I build as-is.

So a couple of questions- should I build on? Or modify the rib? I'm leaning towards modifying it since I don't want to feel like I'm taking shortcuts this early in the build... Does anyone know a source for long reach fluting pliers? I think the fluting will work but my Avery pliers don't reach very far (the flutes are a bit short of the tooling hole in the rib). Or if anyone else can recommend a way to bring the thickness of the web in at the front of the rib I'm open to ideas.

Thanks in advance.

 

Almost Paint Ready

Spent the weekend getting my BMW R90S ready for sale on Bring-a-Trailer. So, did the sanding of the second primer surfacer application this morning and filled minor pinholes and small scratches that were left from first primer surfacer app.

Wingtips will be ready for paint tomorrow, temperature and wind permitting. Then, Wed I will attach all the nut plates and lights. Depending on the quality of my painting, I will decide whether to cut and buff the paint.

 

Oil Cooler Bolt Interference Solutions ...AdamB RV-10

That's exactly what I did. Just for that one bolt I didn'tuse a spacer and attached it via the inner flange only.

 

Alternate Pitot Static Source ...some ideas


 

 

4/25/2022.  Issue #5,557.
   Need an ATP-rated G-550/450 typed Contract SIC? ...I'm here.

My RV Weekend ...various folks chiming in



 

Is this normal 7 Horizontal stab front spar

Hi. Building the horizontal stab front spar.

small gaps either side of the bends between the 714/710 and 702. will these pull up when riveted?...it seems that the hs0001 parts both have small bends each side of the factory bends across the length of the part which doesnt help the problem. maybe its because the 710/714 parts are thicker so even though i was very careful to get the bends in the right place i think their radius is more gentle than the 702 and hs0001 parts. the 702 bend sits hard on the 710/714 bends with the small gap either side. all parts are 6 degrees. anyone else looked this closely or seen this?
all ok? I cant see how i could rectify it without mucking around with the 710/714 bends and possibly making a mess.

build on and trust the rivets will pull them together? the pic shows a small gap on the left side of the bend...hard to photo...all four joints look the same...cheers.

 

Unknown Component

I was looking at a -7A QB and noticed this component bolted to the floor of the fuselage around the passenger's feet area. The component protrudes through the floor and can be seen from under the fuselage with a rod end attached. What is this?

 

Help - Windscreen Intimidation!

Well, this is the last major step in my RV-7 build and it seems I've been on my heels a bit. After finally jumping all in yesterday and drilling the windscreen, it wasn't as bad as I thought it would be (seems like most of this ~5-year build has been like that).

You can see from my pictures I have about 1/2" to 5/8" separation/outward bow of the plexi from the fuselage on the lower sides. I think this is somewhat normal.

Can someone point me to a picture or provide a description of how they used a clip to pull this in tight? Seems like a lot of stress will be concentrated in this area if I pull it in tight; but I need to pull it in, right? Can this be re-shaped with a heat gun? Maybe this is not a big deal to simply pull it in tight. Edges are finish-sanded smoothly.

Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks!

 

7A Rebirthing Update ...kentlik

Right wing skinned

 

Not RV But a Milestone

This may have never happened without the RV background...

Finally checked the box on first SIC contract work in the Phenom 300 this past Friday flying someone or something somewhere (and maybe back or not). We might be in the grab below (or not). Felt strange not having a major malfunction every 3 minutes and it took awhile to get used to the blue stuff outside the window (maybe on one of the legs - maybe not).

 

 

s4/22/2022.  Issue #5,556.
  Bill (RV-8) recently asked Randy (RV-8), Ross (RV-6) and me (RV-6) to fly with Stan (Globe Swift) in a diamond formation pass a half mile behind him over the ground breaking ceremony of the Medal of Honor Museum in Gainesville, TX.  News story.  Thursday was the day.  Bill would be leading us in at the controls of the L-26B Ike's Bird.  Everything went off swell - the TOT coordinated with the KGLE airport manger via handheld there on the ground.  45* diamond pass around the tent where the gold plated shovel did its duty the previous minute.  Ground track full size.  Bumpy, hot, humid and a tired neck after an hour on the wing as #2, but very satisfying. 
  The city of Gainesville has hosted 56 of the 74 living Medal of Honor recipients.  Building the RV 20 years ago I would have said you were crazy if you told me I'd have the chance to do stuff like this.  Five planes, three of which were RVs.
  What an honor to get to participate in this ceremony!  God Bless America and those who defend her!
  Wishing you and yours a happy, safe and RV-filled weekend.
   Need an ATP-rated G-550/450 typed Contract SIC? ...I'm here.


Bet you can guess where the tent was.

 

Page 45A-04 Rev 3 ...RV-12 subforum

Q: This is the current revision. In step 3 it says "Route P156 down through the F-1202 panel base..." This wire ultimately connects to the Silent Hektik (in my case, I don't have the newer one) which is on the firewall. Why wouldn't it simply pass through the firewall grommet rather than going down below? Any help is appreciated. I'm really frustrated with this wiring.

A: The P761 is the little yellow wire 12V energized by the Master to the bring the voltage reg alive. On your drawing 45A-04 it shows routed for the under panel regulator location.
Here is an earlier 45A-06 Rev 0 plan showing that wire to the regulator located on the firewall shelf. The changes to the regulator location are causing confusion for sure.

Also see sheet 46-19 Rev. 4 relating to changes due to the B&C regulator which is current.
The yellow regulator control wire is no longer used. Instead, they are showing a jumper between pin 4 and pin 6 on the B&C regulator. There has been controversy in these forums about this because with the jumper installed turning off the Master does not shut down the VR.

 

Build Update: Roll Servo / Wingtips ...rockitdoc

Finally, figured it out. Thanks. Easy once you know how. Right? Assembled the roll servo in the right wing today. Also worked on the wingtips getting the webs installed and bodywork done.


 

Keeping Harness Away from Stuff

My wire harness can touch the aileron actuation pushrod in the right wing. Not much slack in the harness to allow use of an Adel clamp on the main spar. What have you guys done to keep the wires away from movable objects like this?

Is there an 'extended' Adel clamp I should know about?

 

Weldments ...Bill E RV-4 PIREP

The "weldments" are a steel fitting/corner joint that connect the aluminum longerons to the firewall and engine mount structure. The first generation weldments were a split type, the newer are more of a pocket design. Some older ones develop cracks, and can be modified with a repair/upgrade. the newer style are much more durable and have been standard in the kits for many years now. Long/Short gear is a long standing debate, mine is long because that was standard when I built mine. I've flown both, and wouldn't let it be a deal breaker. If the plane has a long prop (72-74), you will need to watch your deck angle if hard bounce or unusual tail high situation. The picture attached is a "new style longeron weldment" on mine. They are located bottom and top corners of the firewall about where your heels rest .

 

 

4/21/2022.  Issue #5,555.
   Need an ATP-rated G-550/450 typed Contract SIC? ...I'm here.
 

Jack's first flight in the 14A

"Took the middle son for his first flight in the 14A. Flew from the LA area to Harris Ranch in Central California..."

 

ACHIEVING AILERON RIGGING ANGLES

I am rigging my RV6 ailerons and have been unable to achieve more than 29-30 degrees nose up.
Admittedly this angle is within allowable limits of 25-32 degrees for TE Up aileron, but I believe that one should be able to achieve the maximum limit even if one doesn't use it all.

After much hair tearing I have found that the outboard hinge lower AN3 aileron attachment bolt is stopping aileron travel at approx 29-30 degrees. The bolt stops against the outboard aileron hinge bracket, and I may be able to file a small blend out in this fitting to compensate.

My question is: Has anybody else encountered this problem? If so what did you do about it.

Of course this may be a tolerance build up issue, e.g. My fittings may be slightly "oversize". However I imagine there are many RV's where the bolt head must be very close to fouling at full aileron travel. Like all issues the more of us that know about it the better off we shall all be.

Thanks.
Graham in New Zealand

 

Frankensnorkel

It's back to one piece and actually fits. Now I can cut the servo flange and fit the alternate air door. What a chore. This thing was at least 1/2" too long.

 

New Speed mod for RV10 (NOT)

I was playing taxi service last week by flying down to KSAV (Savannah, GA) to pick up my son in order for him to be home mid-week to coach my grandson's baseball game. (I know, first world problem...) I made a nice landing runway 19 at KSAV and taxied over to SheltAir to pick up my son. There was a Delta flight holding short for me to land so I didn't dawdle on the runway but also wasn't a high speed taxi either. I felt a few bumps but attributed it to the commercial jets coming and going, fast braking, etc that had the runway less than smooth. In fact, rwy 19 had been notamed out of service earlier in the day as they were doing some maintenance on the runway.

After exiting the runway and the first Delta jet departed, I heard ground trying to find an airport service truck to go out to the runway to pickup a cone on 19??? I hadn't seen a cone but didn't impact me so just continued on to Sheltair. When I parked at SheltAir, the line guys immediately started asking about the nose wheel pant.... what happened, when it happened, sharing that a local Cirrus had the same problem, etc. I had no clue what they were talking about until I got everything shut down and stepped out to have a look. This is what I saw....

 

More aileron deflection to the right side

Hi,
I have a 20 year old 1300 hours flight time used RV6A and I noticed, that the aileron deflection is one inch more to the right side than to left.
When the stick is in the middle position, the aileron are aligned.

Can this be a problem ?

 

Oil drain

So today, I was puttering around at the hangar with my RV-7A that I've had for less than a year. It had a condition inspection and oil change just before I bought it plus a pre-buy by a different person. Due to a number of reasons, I've only flown it 40 hours or so in the 10 months I've had it.

So today, I looked down below the exhaust and saw a small oil drip on the floor. "Hmm, this is the first drip I've seen from this plane." I got a light and looked up at the drain plug and quick drain and saw it leaking as in the attached photo. Now, I'm no A&P but that safety wire doesn't look like the ones on the how-to YouTube videos or even the few that I've done. As funky as it is, I'm glad it kept the drain plug from coming all the way out. That would have been a bad day.
Attached Thumbnails

 

Cowl/fiberfrax modification

There are some areas on the lower cowl on my RV6 build that are pretty close to the exhaust pipes. I would like to protect these areas with 1/8" fiberfrax and the aluminum self adhesive cowl shield I got from Vans. Question for those who have done this - what did you use, if anything, to attach the fiberfrax to the cowl? My cowl surface is still unprotected. My plan is to seal it with bilge paint from my local boating shop. I've tried it on the inside of my wheel pants (old kit), and it seals very well, and is made to protect the fiberglass bilge area of a boat from oil, fuel, hydraulic fluids, etc. Should the fiberfrax/aluminum shield be put on over this bilge treatment, or before?
I'm unsure what would stick to fiberfrax, or if being held down by the adhesive back aluminum is enough.

 

 

First tentative steps into LAA style maintenance

Yesterday helped out the legends / experts who were fixing our nose wheel spat. I was tasked with the coffee. I did alright.

 

Cad Plated / Stainless Hinges ...Andy Miller

We tapped the hinges for securing screws, cad plated and then made stainless cover plates..

Hinges were baked after plating to de-embrittle


 

Wood on Panel ...PIREP

I have experience with this type of thing and wished I didn't.
Holy Batman does it turn into a problem or WHAT????
I regret the whole process. As others have said get some plastic or anything BUT veneered wood
My thoughts and cost to get rid of it.

 

 

4/20/2022.  Issue #5,554.
   Need an ATP-rated G-550/450 typed Contract SIC? ...I'm here.
 

Planning the Great Escape

Planning the extraction of the project from a heated, comfy walkout basement. The fuselage rests on a dolly supported by a triplet of 8" urethane casters which turn and translate easily. Door removal is likely if the engine is mounted.


 

RV-14A First Flight N421S

Ordered the first kit December 2019. Some 1770 hours of construction later, had the airworthiness inspection with the DAR April 13, 2022.

First Flight April 15, 2022. Only minor squawks such as the autopilot was very sensitive and has since been tuned. Great Flying bird!

Thought I would share this with those that begin to think the process will never be complete.

 

Sulfur deposits on exhaust valve?

Soooo... having a borescope is a gift and a curse at the same time.

Would this yellowish-greenish area on the valve be sulfur deposits? It shows up on #3 and 4 but not 1 or 2. Also only shows up inside exhaust passage and not on the face of the valve.

Anyone know if this is an issue? I'm guessing not but I don't know what I don't know. Thanks!

 

Jumping in: RV-14 in Boise, Idaho Area

New to the forum, First time RV builder, 2nd airplane build. I finished and have been flying a Kitfox S7 for about 3 years now (1000hrs on the tach). ABSOLUTELY love that plane but I also love to build and need a new project.

Looking forward to learning as much as I can here. Working with Van's on getting my ordered placed this week and potentially a second factory visit (WX sucks this week in Aurora)

I'm wondering if anyone is in the the general Boise, Idaho area with a 14 that would be willing to let me sit in/walk around their plane, to solidify my decision. There is still a part of me that has the 7 in mind but I'm 90% certain the 14 is for me. That said its been 4 years since my first factory visit.

 

My RV Weekend ....new entry

Easter weekend trip to see mom in Sebring.

 

RVs in Uniform

Hi everyone - My name is Hal Bryan, and I'm EAA's managing editor here in Oshkosh. Long time lurker, and all that, and someone who is lucky enough to fly our flying club's RV-6A from time to time.

Anyway, we're looking at a future story for Sport Aviation magazine, and need some help. As you can guess by the subject line, we're looking for RVs painted in military schemes. In this case, though, our focus will be on those airplanes that replicate the paint scheme of a particular airplane, and/or that specifically honor a pilot or squadron - as opposed to schemes with general military overtones.

We have a file started, but we'd love to find more. If your airplane fits the bill, or you know one that does, would you send us a note at editorial at eaa.org?

Thanks in advance!

Hal

 

RV6 Panel

Here's my old school panel. 180 hp// fixed pitch .Super light.I love it.

 

100% baro alt fail on perf report

I did about 30 minutes in and around the local airport to check out new GRT sport EX EFIS install which is now providing encoder duties to my microair transponder over serial connection. On the microair it's showing the correct pressure alt on reporting mode. The perf report showed no baro alt, I'm at a loss for what if could be. I am getting addb out using a GDL-82 which worked perfectly with my previous dynon d60..

 

Panel switch for dual Odyssey system

Can anyone ID the battery switch (right of LS plasma switches) for my dual Odyssey batteries? I need a replacement.

 

Model Decided

After our trip to Sun N Fun we have decided on our model. We checked out the Velocity XL and the Vans RV-10 and RV-14. While the mission is typically 2 adults and baggage I'm a big guy by all specifications. 6'6" 350lbs. The Velocity fit as long as I reclined the seat and didn't shut the door. It had the exact same feeling of me squeezing into a Porsche at Track Experience. I could do it as long as I didn't need to wear a helmet. The RV-14 was the easiest to get into due to the flip up canopy but with the seat all the way back my knees were still hitting the panel and the control stick was bumping on nose up. The RV-10 was difficult to get into but was a great fit once inside. Looking at the setup I think some modifications can be made to make getting in and out a little easier. It would involve setting the rails back about 3-4 more inches so that the seat could slide back for getting in and out of it.

Next step is a shop build so I have a proper place to work, tools and empennage kit purchase. Oh and solving my budget issue. All the little things.

 

Aileron rib flange

I'm working on my ailerons now and recently riveted the top skin to the spar. After doing the left one, I noticed a distinct bulge between the spar and the first rivet in the middle nose rib that corresponds to the edge of the nose rib flange. I then took a look at the right aileron and noticed the exact same thing. Since I've already blind-riveted the spar to the ribs (or the skin to the spar in the case of the left aileron), I don't want to take this apart now, so I realize little can be done at this point. I buffed out the left nose skin as much as I dared to try to smooth it out and can probably live with it as is.

Just curious if anyone else seen this faceted edge in the ailerons? I certainly couldn't see this while the nose skin was cleco'd to the spar. It only appeared after the pieces were riveted together.

 

Help: Spar Bending Tool

Hello all,

I need to smooth out the ski jump on the upper rear spar of my RV8. I tried to order the spar bending tool from Vans but the tool was checked out by another builder for the last 3 months. I don't think the tool will be returned to Vans any time soon.

Does anyone have the homemade spar bending tool I borrow? I'll pay for the shipping cost.

If you created a similar tool before, can you post a picture of it?

Thank you,

The tool should looks something like this.

 

 

4/19/2022.  Issue #5,553.
   Need an ATP-rated G-550/450 typed Contract SIC? ...I'm here.
 

RV Grin: Mary Ryan ...my niece.  dr

I had the pleasure of giving my niece her first RV ride Monday morning.  One of the sweetest people you could ever meet.

 

Avionics Installation for Experimental Aircraft Course - May 11-13, 2022 ...g3xpert

Greetings VAF!

Once again the Aircraft Electronics Association will be hosting an Avionics Installation for Experimental Aircraft course, on May 11-13, 2022, at their headquarters in Lee's Summit, MO (Kansas City Suburb). For complete details and registration information, please visit the AEA Course Website.

This has been a popular training opportunity that includes hands-on wiring and avionics installation fundamentals, heavily focused on the Garmin G3X Touch system. Many VAF members have attended this course in the past! It is a 3-day course at a registration cost of $499. There are a limited number of spots available and space fills quick!

Let us know if you have any questions!

 

Dayton Ohio to the Bahamas ...Gyrodoug

13 flights.
17 hours total.
2534 miles.

Weather delays and detours in St. Simon Island, Ft. Pierce, FL, Ashville, NC etc. Stayed in Treasure Cay. We also saw North Eleuthera - Spanish Cay during a day trip.

Best trip ever!

 

-9 Status Report ...GeoffP in Australia

Spent most of the Easter Weekend eating chocolate and riveting the forward fuselage together.

 

Surface Treatment For Steel ...DanH

Brain trust question

The strips in the photo are the steel edges for the lip and apron on an 8 ft sheet metal brake. Painting them is probably not going to be satisfactory in the long term, as it will probably chip. So how can I protect them from rust?

Anyone care to suggest their favorite surface treatment, conversion coating, etc? I have all the usual spray on rust preventatives. I'm looking for something like passivation and black oxide treatments for the home shop.

 

Circuit Breaker Orientation? Line - Load

Does the line - load matter on circuit breakers in a 12v DC application?

All I've ever read or seen is the line side connects to the bus bar - but that's always been in an AC application.

If I emplace the circuit breaker with the line side connected to the bus bar, the amp rating on the stem is oriented upside down.

Why does line - load matter in a DC application?


 

More from This Week's 'My RV Weekend'


 

 

4/18/2022.  Issue #5,552.
  Hope you, your family and friends had a nice Easter weekend.
   Need an ATP-rated G-550/450 typed Contract SIC? ...I'm here.
 

7A Update ...Draker

2022-04-13: Interior installed. Excellent quality seats and carpet by Flightline Interiors.


 

3D Printed Canopy Strut Lock (-12)

I decided to upgrade my PVC pipe version of a canopy strut lock to 3D printed item. 3D printed version has a much better fit and I added a key ring tab to attach a Remove Before Flight flag.

The printable STL file will be available on Thingverse.com and Printabales.com shortly, along with some other RV-12 3D parts I created.

John Salak
RV-12 N896HS

 

Instrument panel visual distance

So, I'm at SNF checking out the Dynon glass. My current plan is to stack 2 of the HDX800's for my EFIS and map functions with round ASI and ALT on either side as backups. The font size on the 7" displays is a bit on the smallish side (vs the 10" display) - but that of course depends on how far your Mark 1's are from the screen. SO... I need someone to go sit in their -8 and measure from the bridge of their nose to a point about 5" below the glare shield as I have full size pix of the 7" and 10" displays that I can then compare. Capischi?

This is just a preliminary run at what I'm shooting for.

 

248 kts airspeed??

While descending from altitude, the EFIS stall warning went off, the airspeed showed 250kts and the wind speed showed 198kts while GPS ground speed and the analog ASI were normal (see pics). Glad I had the analog gauge and GPS to reassure me something terrible wasn't happening. Jonathon at AFS did a great job of analyzing the logs which clearly indicated a static system blockage in the tubing branch going out the wing to the AHARS. Water in that tube froze at altitude while the tubes going to the analog gauge were clear.

So my question is: what are some options on keeping the RV-14 static system clear of moisture? My old Cessna had a sump bottle near the static port but I'm not sure that would have helped in this case.

 

David Paule -3B Update

The small weld issue mentioned above is an incomplete weld. It had the appearance of a crack but wasn't, exactly.
I'm an old aerospace engineer and have done many crack propagation analyses, and felt it needed to be repaired.
Checked with my certified airplane's AI, who said to repair it. So did my mentor, another engineer, and Van's support. Actually Support said that this area might crack anyway at some point, repaired or not, but that it would be better to repair it.

It's at the top of the right landing gear socket and is in that red circle.

 

Dog Muff Review

I am amazed how well these worked. Our mini Weiner dog was asleep within 10-15min. He was very comfortable with them and did not try to shake them off. It does require a little effort to keep over ear canals when he moves around.
Product is 4 Paws Aviation. $50 on Amazon. Makes travel with dog easy and calming. At least I think so.

 

Fuel PSI High alert !! Again. ... Lukla -12

My Fuel Psi is fluctuating again in my Rv 12 Dynon HDX. it was not stable since new. I added Capacitor for filter and worked for while now back to fluctuating .  there is constant flow I verified with actual mechanical psi gauge.  If any one of you had this issue and you fixed it!!!
Please let me know what should I do ... No Opinion..... No guessing Please....

 

Panel Shown ...oscaroviedo

 

Canopy Progress ...PaulvS

It's already autumn now but some days have been warm enough to work on the canopy plexiglas.

I used the air cutoff tool to initially trim off the skirts and found it difficult to control accurately and see the cut line clearly due to the safety guard. If the disc slips it can quickly do damage. The results were much better when I purchased a Ryobi cordless cutoff tool. The tool design makes it much easier to control and the speed is fully variable from 0 to 20,000 RPM. It should be useful later on also when fitting the cowling.

The plexi is now clamped to the canopy frame, which is sitting on some timber boards to make it easy to clamp. The rubber backed carpet strips prevent the spring clamps from slipping of the tubes. I decided to use the Vans rivet method of attaching the plexi and hopefully there won't be any cracking!

 

Update on Wheel Pant Repair/Refurbish ...MacCol

As it turns out (discovered while stripping the finish) it looks like these wheel pants were gel coated rather than painted. When I finish the fiberglass repair, should I have them painted or re-gel coated?

 

My RV Weekend ....various folks checking in.


 

 

4/15/2022.  Issue #5,551.
  Susie's sister is spending Easter weekend with us, so I'm hoping to be able to give her a spin around the area in the family RV-6.  The weather looks promising.
  Wishing you and yours a happy, safe and RV-filled weekend.
   Need an ATP-rated G-550/450 typed Contract SIC? ...I'm here.
 

RV Grin ...Larry Vandeventer

My wife's first flight in our new (to us) RV6A. She says we can keep it!

 

100 year old Birthday Party ...Taltruda

Last year, I delivered a -8 from St Louis to New Jersey for a guy. When I landed in NJ, I met his 99 year old hangar mate. I took the guy for a ride (pic in the yellow plane) and told him if he makes 100. I'm coming out for it! We'll he made it, so I jumped in my -4 and flew from Las Vegas to NJ and back for it! Only stayed in NJ for a day but I think I made his day! He built 6 planes, including a RV-6 that he still has. Although he doesn't fly solo anymore, he does get in the air and still flies great! Still drives, sharp as a tack!

Here's the stats.. 12.55 hours eastbound, 15.68 hours westbound. Highest ground speed was 211 knots in level flight. Longest leg was 4:29 made possible by going to 17,500 and leaning for 5.8 GPH. I only have the original 32 gallon tanks, and I landed with 4 gallons (legal 30 minutes reserve) Landed at Leadville, bought the tee shirt and got the certificate. Battled the 42 knot winds in Arizona and Nevada (42 knots on the ground, 60 to 70 knots airborne). These are such capable planes!

 

Innstalled avionics wire bundles- ezee-peezee ...Terry Shortt

Put my main avionics bundle in the plane today. I don't know why people think this is such a big deal. It only took like a minute.

Haven't opps checked it yet though <g>

 

No Airspeed and altitude ...FinnFlyer

Had an interesting flight this early evening.

Due to wildlife (deer, turkeys and other birds) I keep my eyes outside during takeoff.

When above tree level I looked at ASI. Zero!

Then a look at altitude. None.

This was my second flight with a 60 lbs concrete bag in the baggage area, so feel was still a bit unfamiliar. Fortunately I had GPS speed and altitude.

By the time I was ready to land, herds of deer had decided to start grazing on the runway. Coming in for touchdown they stood there just looking at me.

Fortunately I didn't come in all that hot and was able to slow down and avoid the deer.

Inspection of static ports revealed that both were clogged. I had no idea that mud daubers (or whatever they were) were able to get into such tiny holes and block them with their mud.

I though that a static bypass valve in the cockpit were only for IFR (icing). Now I'm considering adding at least a Tee with a plug in the static line.

Meanwhile I'm adding inspection of static ports to my preflight routine.

 

Muffler Crack...Jim Stricker -12

I'm doing Annual Condition Inspection now and found a crack in the muffler where the exit exhaust tube is welded on. Looks like vibration induced metal fatigue from long cantilever exhaust tube. TT=750. Muffler is in back of car and headed for local TIG welding shop...

 

DIY ScotchBrite Floor Deburring "Grinder" ...HFS

This tool gets used for smoothing the edges of a lot more sheet metal parts than just those airplane related.

2 - 6 x 2 ScotchBrite wheels. 1 - Medium & 1 - Fine

Regular on/off switch as well as a momentary foot control - for those "mini" jobs.

A polishing wheel (resting in pocket in frame) can be installed when shining up stainless screws, etc.

3/4 HP x 3450 rpm motor, geared down to 1700 arbor speed (already had motor on hand, o/w would have used 1725 rpm motor.

On a rolling stand that can be locked in position.

 

OP Update on Mysterious Case of Rudder Dimples

Brian was right. My A&P inspected the rudder and empennage this week and found deformation and a 1/8" crack on the rudder horn brace (see Photos 1 & 2). A call to Van's support told us to stop-drill the crack and continue to monitor it. If it grows at all we need to replace the part.

So, it seems this gust induced rudder-elevator strike was not as bad as it could have been, as the marks in the rudder were "dimples" and not holes and there appear to be no further signs of deformation (wrinkles, buckling, etc).

That said, in my opinion the free-swinging rudder on the RV-14A is one of the bigger challenges of long cross-country trips. I have yet to find a way of effectively securing it so I can sleep without visions of slamming rudders dancing through my head.

Based on experience (and a few of your posts), my current plan of gust lock redundancy is:

- Any "thru the hinge line" gust locks go in the trash (see Photo 3)

- Clamp new AirGizmo locks (with tabs) on aileron, elevator, and top of rudder if I can reach it

- Antisplat Ultimate Gust Lock on copilot stick

- Seat belt around pilot stick

The Antisplat shows promise but I've found it can slip off the rudder pedals with full aileron deflection, so obviously it's important to lock the ailerons. I thought I'd done this with my old AirGizmos but found they also worked loose in strong gusts, setting up a chain of events that leaves the plane with little gust protection other than the seatbelt.

Thanks to all who weighed in here. Will update as appropriate

 

Reported 4/14 on the Mothership

 

RV-15 Dreaming....springtime in Texas

Took the cub up for a .3 this morning (first flight in that in a loooonnnngg time).

Got me thinking again about how nice it's going to be to do this type stuff in the RV-15!

Doesn't that picture just scream 'get the lawn chair out, sit in that morning shade and leave the laptop OFF while you finish your morning ice tea'? Springtime in Texas photo for your enjoyment...

 

 

4/14/2022.  Issue #5,550.
   Need an ATP-rated G-550/450 typed Contract SIC? ...I'm here.
 

RV-3 Status Update ...Chris Beebe

Work in progress. Have a few taxi tests complete. Next on the list is transition training and tail wheel endorsement.

 

Precise Location of Instrument Panel (7/7A/9/9A)

Hi,

I'm at the stage of building out the forward fuselage for my very-slow-build RV7 slider, and have the forward top skin F-7106 clecoed on (that was difficult!). The instrument panel F-7103 is clecoed on at the top to the 3 ribs and the F-7103B&C angles, but the little brackets (F-721C and F-721D) are not yet attached to the forward deck.

The instructions just say to "Fit and drill the the F-721C and F-721D attach angles to the panel and the F-721A deck". However there is still a reasonable amount of flexibility in the panel and I can push it a few 32nds fore and aft pretty easily, which leaves some uncertainty in the precise location of these attach angles and consequently in the bottom of the panel.

I don't want to end up with the panel too far forward (and possibly interfering with the stick), or twisted in some way. I've looked in vain for some measurements on the plans to determine how far back it should be, but can't find anything.

Am I missing something obvious or can anyone give me a few pointers here?

 

New cooler mount design ...cgeyman PIREP

To Vlad's concern, it looks like they beefed up the design in late 2008, hurray
(See beefed up upper brace and thicker outer mount):

 

Canopy Replacement with Screws

Hello all,

Looking to engage the VAF brain trust on this one. I'm currently replacing the canopy on my RV-8 due to multiple (7) cracks in the plexiglas. I've been using the procedures outlined by Danny King and Paul Dye in a thread from 2012. So far, I have successfully removed the old transparency with minimal damage, and have cleaned up the frame.

The problem I've discovered is that the original canopy was attached with #6 screws threaded into riv-nuts in the tube steel frame. As seen in this photo, the rib-nuts have a flange that I am concerned will induce a stress riser on the new plexiglas canopy, and cause another crack.

I've brainstormed 3 different courses of action going forward, but wanted to pick the VAF braintrust. Below are the options I've thought of, but I'd like to hear everyone's thoughts, even if (especially if) they're different than the options I've considered below.

Courses of Action:



 

TIG Torch Hand - Rest ...HFS

I do a bit of TIG welding on smaller parts that sometimes are hard to find a suitable rest for me torch hand (I'm left handed - so the attached pics may "feel" backwards).

I used a magnetic base with a vertical round tube, that the horizontal square tube can be positioned to a location suitable for welding, up/down, forward/back. Made two "rests" - one for vertical welds (shown installed), one for horizontal welds that are close to the table (laying down in front).

YMMV - and probably will.

 

Incorporating some-8 in the -3 ...Steve Formhals PIREP

As you have probably noticed, the RV3 plans are pretty rudimentary compared to the newer models. My plans do not show the bottom skins in the drawings, just the top; however, I have incorporated som RV8 style upgrades, as have others. This includes doing the double row of rivets where the two bottom skins overlap.

In my opinion, it wasn't that much extra work and adds additional strength to the joint. The skins I had were large enough to allow the double row without any problem.

The pictures below show the lay out and the riveting. It's hard to tell from the photo ( this photo might have been taken before all the riveting was done) but I was able to use Solid rivets for all except the 12 rivets on the inboard row closest to the trailing edge, which ended up being blind rivets.

 

 

4/13/2022.  Issue #5,549.
   Need an ATP-rated G-550/450 typed Contract SIC? ...I'm here.
 


Wanting to go play.  dr's -6 'Flash'.
full size

 

Looking for wire routing pictures

Q: Does anybody have a few pictures of what it looks like to run wiring down the outside corners of the cockpit floor on your way aft?

I'n my mind, I had always planned to run everything down the center tunnel (if I had room) But my prefabricated avionics bundle has most of the stuff going aft already tied up in snakeskin anti-chafe in two branches that are coming off the trunk in such a way that they were clearly envisioned to be routed outboard.

It's an RV7. Not that it matters for concept purposes.

A: No, the only wires to go down the central tunnel were the flap wires.

The wires described in the video went through either the left or right conduit shown in this photo. These conduits are not in the plans.

All spar penetrations followed the Van's guidelines.

 

Raising the bottom of the Instrument Panel?

Q: One of the many wonderful things about the newer glass instruments is how SO MUCH information can be compressed into a smaller space than the old "Six-pack" days of round dials.

My tentative panel will leave room along the bottom of the panel unused, so I'm interested in cutting the panel along the bottom to allow for a longer stick and more leg room.
I'm concerned that cutting off that rounded corner at the bottom will reduce the integrity of the panel. Am I over thinking that? I know I could always rivet some angle along the newer edge down there.

A: (Ironflight) Regardless of whether o9r not you can cut it shorter (I know of some cases where folks cut only the CENTER shorter - sort of a notch in the bottom - I think. You're going to find that your avionics are not going to mount as close to each other as you think they are. You'll need supporting structure between things in order to make the panel work. If you're cutting that much of the panel away to provide square openings for the boxes and faceplates, you'll need stiffeners of aluminum to restore the structure and to give you rails on which to mount some things.

Just speaking from experience - its easy to cram more stuff in than will fit!
 

 

Status: Lights ...rockitdoc 14A

"...I just hope the forward thrust of these lights doesn't lead to a stall when they are activated! Sort of reminiscent of what happened to the A10 Warthog when the gatling gun in the nose was first tested!"

 

Status Report: Joeyo68 RV-7

Got paint and wings!
More progress over the last couple of weeks.
Spent last week with my painter painting my RV, and tonight, with some local RV/pilot buddies we bolted on the wings for the final time!

 

More from the 'What I Did' Thread This Past Weekend



 

 

4/12/2022.  Issue #5,548.
   Need an ATP-rated G-V typed Contract SIC? ...I'm here.
 

From the My RV Weekend Thread

(dreed) Cascade Locks (KCZK) great little strip if you're ever in the Portland area, and my first trip in there- Right next to the Columbia River, great views all around. Highly recommended (watch for animals on the runway)

 

RV-10 Red Beacon

Did some night flying in a friend's RV a few weeks ago. After landing the white strobes reflecting back were very annoying on the taxi back to the hangar. Decided I wanted a red beacon for night ground ops, and shamelessly borrowed some ideas from this thread. Went with the Whelen Vertex for 35 bucks on Ebay. This is how it came out.

 

Firewall grommet: Page 46-20 ...RV-10

Page 46-20 step 1 has us install a grommet in the firewall but I see no further reference to it. Can someone tell me which wires pass through this? Thanks.

 

"Suggestion" For Paint Shop Convenience ...HFS

My building shop gets turned into a paint shop once in a while, and it is nice to be able to easily suspend parts for the painting process. Even when it is still a working shop, there are times when small pieces need to be "hung up", either for drying or painting with aerosol cans.

When building the shop I knew I was going to need this option, so built in a "grid" of hangers to facilitate such - DIY eye bolts in ceiling on 1' centers. Using 5' x 3/4" dowels, with slotted eye lag bolts at either end, I can set up single hangers, or hanging bars approximately 5' above the floor (10' ceiling height).

 

Mysterious Case of Rudder Dimples

A few days ago my RV-14A was tied down on a Wyoming ramp under some pretty strong surface winds (30 knots or so). While I did have redundant gust locks in place (Airgizmos, Anti-Splat, and Pad-Lock), they popped off a few times and I had to reattach them.

Everything seemed OK on inspection this morning, but I noticed three curious dimples just about where the rudder might contact the elevator if the RV-14 rudder stop weren't in place (see Photo 1 attached). As it is, the rudder stop prevents these surfaces from coming anywhere near each other (I measure a full inch between a pegged rudder and the elevator surface - see Photo 2).

For the rudder to override the stop and whack the elevator hard enough to cause these dimples seems unlikely, and I find no obvious sign of wrinkles/deformation/flex on the rudder.

I suppose these dimples could be totally unrelated (hangar rash, etc) but the location, shape, and circumstances have me very suspicious.

Opinions appreciated.

[ed. I have them on my RV-6 rudder - I put stickers over them.  Wind gusts caused.  v/r,dr]

 

Houston area monthly lunch (April 2022)

Wow, it's that time again already...once again, weekend weather is looking good, and since I missed out on the last seafood run, let's give Lake Jackson a try again.

If anyone needs a lift down, I'll be taking a club Archer out of KTME. I can take along either one decent-sized adult or a couple of really skinny folks. But in exchange for that limited useful load, we get...air conditioning.

Time: 11:30 AM
Place: Runway Cafe, KLBX

 

Pondered Completion ...goatflieg

Saturday was rainy, so I fussed over a few minor items, then just sat with the plane for a couple hours, looking it over. I was finally really sinking in that I had a flyable airplane now.

 

Mistake on aileron spar dumb *** - holes to close

So today was a very productive day and I was wrapping up when I realise that I had used the wrong line to position my aileron nose rib. I initally thought...a simple fix was to replace the spar doublcing plate on the front and move on. So after making a new one, I place the nose rib in place and used the 90 degree drill to get the rib in the correct location. Sucess or so I thought!....nope being the dumb *** that I am, missed that the spar was already drilled and drilled three holes right next to the ones I had drillered earlier. So the rib....all good, doubler all good, but spar has 6 holes instead of 3....and no the minimum gap distance would not apply. They are no 30 holes and the distance on the top one is around 3/32 and 1/8 at the bottom...what to do next, replace the aileron spar ? Any help appreciated...So dang cross with myself for being so stupid! Pics attached of my mess

 

Panel Upgrade Status ...hangar7racing

 

 

4/10/2022.  Issue #5,547.
   Need an ATP-rated G-V typed Contract SIC? ...I'm here.
 

No Limits!

Marco Cherubini is a paraplegic, but that didn't stop him from building an RV-7 and fulfilling his dreams of flight.

By Luca Perazzolli (new article in Kitplanes)


 

Fuel Tank & Alodine PIREP ...Dan Newman RV-8

I did my tanks this way, both for adhesion promotion and for corrosion protection (mostly during the couple of years the tanks have been stored in a humid, salty, dusty environment while I build the rest of the aircraft). I Alodined all the ribs, skins and stiffeners, following the specification process. Used a bath for ribs and stiffeners, brush and wipe on for the skins. The attached image shows an example.

The Proseal adhesion to Alodined surfaces was excellent. The only place I had any adhesion problem was on one of the filler neck flanges, which I didn't Alodine and obviously didn't scuff or clean well enough.

 

Milestone Photo: David Paule -3B

After over 6,000 hours, it took less than four more to put a few parts on the fuselage. Then it was time for the requisite photo.

 

SB 07-11-09 Nose gear leg and fork upgrade ...PaulvS

The nose gear leg and fork upgrade bulletin requires either a new gear leg, or modification to the existing gear leg, by threading an extra 1" on the end and then cutting off the original threaded section to provide extra clearance between the ground and the bottom of the leg.  --->

 

Leak Test PIREP ...Reflex

Here's mine from a long time ago. Thought I had a better picture. Left it on the manometer for 30 days. Took readings every 24 hours. Significant changes due to temp and pressure.

 

Status ...PilotjohnS 9A

I just got the windscreen glued in with sikaflex. What a mess.  First, I made up spacers that go on the roll bar to set the height of the windscreen to match the canopy.  --->

 

Plumbing Status Lines ....Mike W PIREP

"...the pressure distribution model says that the center will be the average of the two port pressures. I plumb mine like this, and it also addresses trapped water."

 

Frankensnorkel beaten ...Larry Larson 7A

I beat it. One end anyway. This thing is like herding cats while wearing a blindfold and riding a wild stallion. Pencil drawings. Really?
Solution was to cut it in half.

I had to fabricate a replacement bracket. Actually five of them. I finally got it right on the sixth.
Now I can fit the servo end and glass the two back together. Finally, some progress.

 

RV-9A Cal's Build Update

Exhaust system.  Pretty fun to hang. Now to make sure the hoses all stay 1.5" or more away.

 

Panel Upgrade in the Works ...Cdenora data point

"..this was the old panel...old school basic VFR"

 

Restored Shear ...DanH

Been knocking out long-delayed projects. Just wrapped up the restoration of a 52" Wysong & Miles metal shear, Model 452. It's been living in the back of my hangar more than 20 years. So, dismantle, sandblast, repaint, and re-assemble with all new hardware.

Know anything about Wysong & Miles shears? Casting numbers on some parts include "Y5", which I have assumed to mean 1945 or 1955, but it's strictly a guess. I'd like to learn more.

Next up, a 10 ft Tumpco sheet metal brake...

 

My RV Weekend ...various folks


 

RV-14 Panel Status ...JET14

 

 

4/8/2022.  Issue #5,546.
  Wishing you and yours a happy, safe and RV-filled weekend.
   Need an ATP-rated G-V typed Contract SIC? ...I'm here.
 

DIY Oil Filter Drain ...HFS

Here is a simple and effective way to drain the residual oil out of the filter at oil change - best for horizontal installations. Not so much otherwise.

If installed and used correctly there will be no "drips" when removing the filter - just have an adequate length drain period. Also makes a difference whether the oil is warm/hot or cold....

YMMV - and probably will

The 90* elbow is to miss the FW "shelf" on -4's & Rockets - o/w if there is enough clearance, a straight fitting (much simpler to make) works just as well.

 

Greg Niehues SnF Groundtrack ...-9A

6.8 hours including taxi time - 42 gallons - nonstop, landed with 25 gallons still in the tank so I don't have to buy the oh-so-expensive fuel here on the field. Had an awesome tailwind at 17,000 all the way.

Field is a bit damp from recent rains and another round is coming today, but the rest of the week looks awesome. Come play!

 

Dimple where there shouldn't be

Ok I dimpled the #6 screw hole for a nutplate on the upper rear bulkhead where I was apparently supposed to have only dimpled the #40 holes on either side. Since this will just be used for the trim attach screws will I be good to leave as is? The skin for the associated hole isn't dimpled while the screw hole is located.

 

Voltage fluctuation

I'm having a problem with voltage fluctuations. The needle movement is about 3 times per second for about 2 volts. I changed the regulator and the fluctuations ceased for about 4 hours flight time. Now they are back again. I am not the original owner of the aircraft. I read the first flight article and he had a regulator fail. He installed a VR-166 but had to do some rewiring to make it work.

I got a box or receipts with the aircraft and with it is a drawing of the electrical system that I think is installed. It lists a 1976 Honda Accord 50 Amp alternator and a 177-D510 regulator but that regulator failed on the first flight.

I will have to drop the cowl to see what alternator is actually installed.

Any idea why the voltmeter is showing fluctuations? What regulator should I be using?

 

Leak Testing Fuel Tanks

I haven't found any photos of a manometer hooked up to the fuel tank to measure the 1 psi needed to check for leaks. So, here is how I set it up:

Hooked a bicycle pump up to the Shrader valve at the yellow arrow. Pumped it until the column of red water in the Tygon tubing (thanks Larry) reached a differential of 30" (that's about 1 psi up here in Colorado. It will be different if your elevation is different, naturally).

Leaks found with bubble liquid obtained in the aircraft aisle at a local toy store. My leaks were at the ground screw holding the float mechanism to the side of the tank. A little sealant on the threads and the washer should solve issue. I'll find out tomorrow.

 

Oil suction screen finding and question

I am pretty good about pulling my oil suction screen, and in 6 years and > 500 hours of flying, I have never found anything at all on it. Yesterday, however, during my CI oil change, I did find one small flake of non-magnetic metal in the oil, stuck to the bottom of the retaining bolt for the suction screen, as pictured below, thin and about 3/32" long. Remainder of suction screen as well as oil filter element are pristine, as usual. Compressions are all >75/80. Borescope exam is on tap for tomorrow.


A few questions -

Since I've never found anything before, I'm embarrassed to admit I don't even know which way oil flows through the screen. I had thought oil flows from the outside in, and as such particles would be trapped on the outside of the screen. Am I mistaken?

Secondly, any recommendations on a lab to send this to for analysis? I am just starting my CI, so plane is obviously grounded until I have further information.

Lastly anybody care to share similar experience and findings?

 

Mothership at SnF

"The Van's tent at Sun 'n Fun is all set up and ready for the big show starting Tuesday morning! Come see the RV-10 and RV-14, and visit with Anne, Kelsey, Tony, Mitch and Greg!"


click to enlarge

 

 

4/7/2022.  Issue #5,545.
   Need an ATP-rated G-V typed Contract SIC? ...I'm here.
 

Slo Mo RV-8 Climbout after T'n'Go

Me and my iPhone a few days back.  Al and Gary in the plane.

 

Maintenance item - sniffle line bracket FF-00076

This is just an FYI to anyone who is transitioning from the build phase to the maintenance phase.

I am almost done with my first condition inspection. I have 98 hours on the plane. The only part I had to order from Van's Aircraft was FF-00076, the little metal bracket that holds the sniffle line up at the front. It broke at the bend. I ordered two so I will have a spare. I would suggest that others do the same.

It's probably the easiest part of the plane to fabricate if you wanted to do it at home, but I have been too busy for metal work and actually need my plane back in the air, so I am at the mercy of the US Postal Service this week.

Everything else, save a couple of screws, survived the first year in good shape. I thought ahead and bought 100 each of the screws and washers for the interior and exterior access covers, spinner, and air filter frame. If not for that sniffle line bracket, I'd be in the air right now.

Happy building and flying, everyone.

 

Dog in RV ...Zazoos data point

Lucky to have a dog that travels so well.

 

Shop noise and being a considerate neighbor

My wife and I may be relocating to a newer house with a garage large enough to move my RV-14 project into. She brought up shop noise as a possible issue with the HOA. I don't think noise would be a problem for our new place because the neighbor garage is the closest part of their home to our garage and there is lots of space and vegetation between too.

Anyone here have ever had a neighbor complain about your rivet gun disturbing them?

 

VPX and PPS manual updates for use of the B&C LR3C/D voltage regulator ...cjensen

"We just uploaded updated versions of both the VPX and PPS manuals to reflect a small change in wiring of the Vsense line from the B & C LR3C/D voltage regulator. The change came after a review with B & C Specialties over the last few weeks in which an inadvertent or accidental switch off of the alternator field would allow the VR to raise voltage to an unsafe level, which could damage the PPS. This was addressed in a previous manual update with a wiring and switch assignment change, but this update eliminates the possibility of an accidental switch off of the alternator doing any damage to the PPS by removing the Vsense connection to the VPX when using a PPS."

 

Voltage fluctuation

I'M having a problem with voltage fluctuations. The needle movement is about 3 times per second for about 2 volts. I changed the regulator and the fluctuations ceased for about 4 hours flight time. Now they are back again. I am not the original owner of the aircraft. I read the first flight article and he had a regulator fail. He installed a VR-166 but had to do some rewiring to make it work.

I got a box or receipts with the aircraft and with it is a drawing of the electrical system that I think is installed. It lists a 1976 Honda Accord 50 Amp alternator and a 177-D510 regulator but that regulator failed on the first flight.

I will have to drop the cowl to see what alternator is actually installed.

Any idea why the voltmeter is showing fluctuations? What regulator should I be using?

 

I'm a Bon Ami believer!

Very pleasantly surprised at my results! Anticipated that it would take a great deal of elbow grease to get rid of the corrosion. But, just reasonable effort, no sore arms. Probably 30 minutes work between rubbing, rinsing and wiping to check progress.

 

 

4/6/2022.  Issue #5,544.
  If you'll allow me to brag for just a second, our 21-yr old son just had his first scientific paper published (he's a chemistry major at SMU). There was a brief moment 20 years back when I thought I was smarter than this young man. Unrelated, he might be the only chemistry major at SMU that knows how to weld, use a torque wrench and change a timing belt.  Mom and Dad's hearts swell with pride and love...   Go Taters!
   Need an ATP-rated G-V typed Contract SIC? ...I'm here.
 

It's an Airplane! ...Krea Ellis RV-10

After 3975 hours over 36 non-consecutive months, N10KE is officially an airplane.

Many thanks to DAR Vern Darley, for his thorough inspection today while he was being "inspected" by the local FAA FSDO representative.

Now to finish re-assembly and get on with Phase 1!

 

David Paule -3B Update

I got the top and the bottom side mounting strips done, primed and riveted on. Years ago, I bought a set of Mil-Spec fasteners, not knowing that they'd go out of business leaving Skybolt as the main RV quarter-turn fastener vendor. The two products are substantially similar. These got riveted to the mounting strips and then the strips to the firewall.

The top strip was complicated by needing the nutplates for the forward fuselage top skin, which on an RV-3, is removable.

A decision I'd made back when I was skinning the fuselage paid off - I had not riveted the firewall joint to the side skins, relying on the G/flex epoxy for the joint. That decision paid off because the side strip rivets didn't interfere with a previous rivet pattern. The riveting on the top was less fun than I'd hoped, partly because of the nutplates but mostly because of the firewall flanges.

 

Wire Routing Through Ribs

I usually rout wires through ribs using snap bushings. But, sometimes bits come pre-terminated, as is the case with the Dynon pitot tube and heater control. So, I just routed the wires through the lightening hole in the rib with 3M mounts in strategic points to keep the wires away from sharp edges.

 

Runaway Trim Yesterday in 14A

Some context: I am a relatively new pilot - just 270 hours, but about 260 of those hours were over a dozen years ago. I bought an RV-14A last month and did 5 hours of instruction on the way home and another 5 back here in Texas before getting signed off to fly my own bird solo.

So all week I've been shooting touch-and-gos and was doing the same yesterday. My procedure once I touch down is to quickly clean up the airplane - flaps up (3 momentary clicks) and hold the hat switch up to send the trim from nearly full up back to neutral. I visually confirm the flaps are up, check the trim indicator and then hit the throttle to go again if the trim is anywhere near neutral.

I'm not sure exactly when the runaway trim started (probably the motor just kept going after I let off the switch), but somewhere around 50ft AGL I noticed I was having to apply what I would call extreme back pressure to climb. For a second I felt I couldn't climb. It caught my attention immediately.

After the initial shock of it, I took a breath and focused on flying. I noticed that the trim indicator showed full down but toggling the hat switch had no effect. I did not even think to go into the VPX settings to try to adjust from there, but honestly I probably wouldn't have been able to reach over to the MFD and handle that given the focus and physical strength it took to fly the airplane.

Having just got back into aviation after a long hiatus, the term runaway trim wasn't even in my lexicon, and although I saw the indicator stuck on full up, a part of my brain was convinced there was some structural problem with the elevator that could get worse any moment. For this reason I decided to stay in the pattern and land as soon as possible. In hindsight, I should've left the pattern to stabilize the airplane and troubleshoot. At a minimum, I could've experimented with pitch control and better understood the limitations before attempting a landing.

But I was in a hurry, so I radioed the 3 other planes in the pattern to let them know I had an elevator problem and asked for them to clear the way. Prior to this point I was hitting the numbers at 65 every single landing, but in my haste to get on the ground this time the approach was hot and I crossed the threshold probably around 80. There was a lot of bouncing and I used 3500 of the 4000 feet available. When I got to the ramp and turned every thing off and back on, the trim functioned normally.

This topic has been discussed extensively in another thread, so the technical considerations perhaps belong there. But after researching it, I'll be doing a few things:

1. I'll be working with my A&P to diagnose exactly where the failure occurred. I'm not a builder so I need help there.

2. I'll be practicing (at altitude) runaway trim scenarios. The airplane is in fact controllable, especially as slow speed in the pattern, but my arm was sore after fighting it for just a few minutes and it wasn't a pleasant experience.

3. I'll be considering solutions from the market for this, like the TCW Safety Trim module, with the understanding that this in one sense just adds more electrical complexity.

I certainly welcome any feedback from the community as well.

 

Eighteen Years.... smokyray

Guys, a fellow brother in arms emailed me today reminding me of an epic "RV weekend" at my grass strip home near KLAL, 18 years ago today.

Thirteen various model RV's flown by F16 (and other) bros of various lineage shoehorned themselves (and their RV's ) into my short, soft, turf runway for a stay-over and Sun N Fun 2004 visit. Later our Sq CC "Rascal" would lead us on a formation photo shoot flying on the EAA C-210's w