Freemasm

Freemasm

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Anybody ever done/had success with this?

Dilemma = I can’t paint at the airport. They look for any reason to not renew your lease.

The steel parts flash rust down here in humid AF central Florida. Blasting is my real, only option for steel parts. I’m having my carcass trailered to an auto body shop to paint the interior. I can’t tie up/mess up their booth with any blast material.

So to the point, has anyone applied epoxy primer (enduro prime here) over a rattle can primer with measured success? I’m in a chicken or egg, tail chasing, infinite do loop of prep.

Thx in advance.
 
Freemasm said:
Anybody ever done/had success with this?

Dilemma = I can’t paint at the airport. They look for any reason to not renew your lease.

The steel parts flash rust down here in humid AF central Florida. Blasting is my real, only option for steel parts. I’m having my carcass trailered to an auto body shop to paint the interior. I can’t tie up/mess up their booth with any blast material.

So to the point, has anyone applied epoxy primer (enduro prime here) over a rattle can primer with measured success? I’m in a chicken or egg, tail chasing, infinite do loop of prep.

Thx in advance.
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You can brush paint your steel parts with epoxy. It levels out pretty well. So blast, brush prime, and then take it to the painter.
 
paint the small parts at home with 2 part epoxy primer (I'm an Akzo Primer guy), and you can buy Preval paint sprayers that you load your own paint in negating the need for a compressor and gun rig. The Prevals can be cleaned with Tuolene or MEK and reused several times.
 
IF the surface is prepped properly and IF the rustoleum or rattle can primer bonds properly and hardens then epoxy will stick to just about anything.
That being said- I have had it work and not work. Most of the trouble has not been the epoxy bonding to the primer but the primer bonding to the surface. Try a few parts and use the masking tape test.
Masking tape rubbed down hard on finished part then tear it off. If anything peals. I’ll bet you see shiny metal and not the rattle can color.
 
Coat your bare steel parts with a light oil. Keep an oiled rag safely stored and handy and if you see any signs of rust, hit it with the rag.
They should be degreased as part of the paint prep regardless. I did this with all of my bare steel parts.
 
I have had little to no success with anything out of a rattle can. Definitely get them primed with a good 2k epoxy before installing. NO bare aluminum should EVER be touching bare steel dissimilar metal Galvanic corrosion is a really bad thing.
Just an offer Send them to me I'll epoxy them for you and send them back asap.
 
Epoxy primer will go over most anything and stick reasonably well, assuming that surface is clean and scuffed/abraded. However, rustoleum itself does not bond to the metal as well, so it becomes the weak link. If the rustoleum de-bonds, the primer is now just a top coat and comes off with it. corossion protection is all aboutt getting the primer to make a strong bond with the metal.

EP over rustoleum is definately worth the effort, as it will help protect the rustoleum and reduce, not eliminate, potential adhesion failure. E Primers can be sensitive to certain chemicals and cause bonding issues. I know the SPI guys do not recommend using Ospho (acid) wih direct to metal applications. May be worth a call to see if there are known issues.

Do NOT use self etching primer. Most EP's do not bond well to them, due to the acid in them. The acrylics, like rustoleum tolerate them well which is why they do it.. Acid etching is only acceptable for EP's when it is fully rinsed off.
 
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Little Al said:
I have had little to no success with anything out of a rattle can. Definitely get them primed with a good 2k epoxy before installing. NO bare aluminum should EVER be touching bare steel dissimilar metal Galvanic corrosion is a really bad thing.
Just an offer Send them to me I'll epoxy them for you and send them back asap.
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Thanks. Had to some at home application, some auto paint booth application, and a little on the sly. All EP.

A bit painful having the right equipment at more than one location> slows things down but I'm getting past them.

Thanks again.
 
Freemasm said:
Anybody ever done/had success with this?

Dilemma = I can’t paint at the airport. They look for any reason to not renew your lease.

The steel parts flash rust down here in humid AF central Florida. Blasting is my real, only option for steel parts. I’m having my carcass trailered to an auto body shop to paint the interior. I can’t tie up/mess up their booth with any blast material.

So to the point, has anyone applied epoxy primer (enduro prime here) over a rattle can primer with measured success? I’m in a chicken or egg, tail chasing, infinite do loop of prep.

Thx in advance.
Click to expand...
2part epoxy primer does not attack the Alkyd based (oil) paint. Single part epoxy paint usually has a strong solvent that will attack the Alkyd based paint
 
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