What's new
Van's Air Force

Don't miss anything! Register now for full access to the definitive RV support community.

Question on Lower Wheel Fairing...

Reflex

Well Known Member
All,

I'm in the process of wrapping up my build and I'd like to:

1) Make the lower wheel fairing and wheel pant one piece.
2) Then, split the assembly into fore and aft parts (a total of two pieces per pant).

I've seen this done on multiple RVs, but not on the RV-14 (taildragger)

With the current assembly, I'll have to remove 14 screws just to check the air or to put air in the tire. Additionally, I'll like the look of the single piece with the spit in the middle.

At issue is the screws for the inside bracket are under the the lower fairing. (see picture below).

Note: The RV-14 has a different set-up than the RV-14A and apparently other RVs.

Questions:
  • Is there something simple I'm missing here?
  • Has anybody done this?
  • If so, would you mind sharing some pictures or insights?

I would rather not spend $400 on Airstop tubs with 90 degree stems. Also, had the tires balance by Antisplat, would need that done again if I sprung for the tubes.

Picture below:





Thanks,

Fred
 
You could glass in a tubular recess for the inside bracket screws -- use a long (ish) screwdriver to access the screw heads for removal & installation.
 
Just the type of idea I am looking for. Many thanks. Not sure how feasible it is with the proximity of the gear leg, but I'm going to look into it.

Fred
 
I did this on my RV-14A and it is a great mod. Should work as well on a 14, I would think.
Edit: Sorry, I didn’t see that a couple of bracket screws are under the fairing in the 14. Not sure of a work-around for that. Accessing the fill tube on the outboard side is easily accomplished, as others have said.
 
Last edited:
Fill the tire option with a 1" hole on the outside of the pant with a clip in cover. A bit tacky but easy tube stem access.

I have the split intersection fairing on my -7 and would like same on my -14.
Interested in solutions for the mount plate screws.
 
Make a hole in the wheel fairing - mine are 1" dia - that allows the valve cap to be seen. Fit hex valve caps - usually 3/8" AF. Buy a 3/8" nut driver to remove the valve caps. Buy a 6" valve stem extension. Pump up tyres and cover hole with tape the same colour as your paint.

I use leak stop tubes as it is still a pain to pump up the tyres and I only remember when they are really too soft.
 
Back
Top