Bend or Cut?

Ran into a question on page 10-8 on an RV-10. When I cleco the F-1012A and F-1012B assembly to the F-1079 skin I am left with an excessive gap between the flange tabs and the F-1079 skin. I'm not sure what the best fix here is. It seems I could remove some material from the flange tabs similar to the faceting of LE ribs, but it appears it would require an excessive amount of material to be removed. I suppose I could bend these as well, but it isn't exactly fluting that is required either. What have I missed that makes this fit together better?

Did you round the inner piece to prevent faceting (Sec 5.2 and called out in multiple steps in section 10)? On my 14A, I did a quick flange run on the wheel on the flange edge to web edge round out the curved edge. It wasn't much, so not sure if it would have looked like this or not, but they did fit against the skin.

I rounded the flanges after the picture I posted, it helped, but I would need to take off a lot more material to make it fit well.

I agree with Brian. I think if you facet those flanges, they will probably tighten up.

I see you beat me to my post, lol.

Are the flanges bent to 90 degrees? I can't tell from the picture. Some of my leading edge rib tip flanges had to be bent less than 90 degrees to help fill the gaps.

I'm not familiar with the part you're working on, but another option might be to shim the gaps.

Another option is a liquid shim using FLOX to fill the gap.

I used my fluting pliers to gently 'massage' a radius into the flanges to reduce the faceting. Then I ran it across my wheel t smooth out the tooling marks.

I ended up using a set of smooth pliers to increase the radius of the flanges. it seems to have improved the fit of everything nicely. Just wanted to be sure I wasn't missing something before I started bending and cutting.

How I did it.

It was a bit of a combination of manipulating flanges and smoothing the edges with the Scotchbrite wheel to finish them off.

I made some small wooden blocks and squeezed the flanges between them using a pair of channel locks. Make the curve more than you need as they will spring back a little. I also ended up making a forming block out of wood and gently tapped the flanges with a light dead blow hammer to get the shape needed.

Another builder on VAF shared that you want the substructure to come up and meet the skin. That way when you rivet it all together you don't get puckers and other deformations.