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Handle above RV10 window

flysrv10

Well Known Member
Found a pair of thick stainless cabinet handle to install above the rear windows for balancing while climbing on top of the wing. Would love to hear from those that have been through this installation. The interior ceiling liner is installed and I do not want to remove it.

The large washer is a Home Depot magnet that I thought should go in the cabin, the small washer would go between the handle and fuselage top. Proseal in the drilled hole.

Any suggestions? Thank you.
 

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I did not do this. However, I would try to mount the handle where the top is solid vs where it has a foam core, as this can get a significant side loading in addition to a pulling force. Not sure what the magnet is for, but magnets tend to be a very weak material. I would want a real, steel washer backing up that handle and likely a large one to hold what could be a significant load. I would NOT attempt the installation without getting access behind the cover and using appropriate backing methods, unless you mount the large washers over the liner. Remember that if this handle fails, someone can get seriously hurt. IMHO, you are better off with no handle than one installed poorly.

If you must put it in an area that has a foam core, you will need sleeves, like the roll bar mount, and probably a backer plate, inside and out, if the F/G is thin in that area.

Larry
 
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Handle above RV-10 window

If your are thinking about something like on a Cirrus, I'd be interested as well. But I was thinking about putting it below the window to help my wife climbing up and down the step.
 

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I did not do this. However, I would try to mount the handle where the top is solid vs where it has a foam core. Not sure what the magnet is for, but magnets tend to be a very weak material. I would want a real, steel washer backing up that handle and likely a large one to hold what could be a significant load. I would NOT attempt the installation without getting access behind the cover and using appropriate backing methods. Remember that if this handle fails, someone can get hurt.

Larry

Thanks Larry. Do you or anyone else remember the location of the solid areas in the top cover?

The magnet is just for the finish look of the big washer. It is chrome plated on the outside. magnet itself is useless.
 
If your are thinking about something like on a Cirrus, I'd be interested as well. But I was thinking about putting it below the window to help my wife climbing up and down the step.

That is exactly what I am looking to do. I thought of putting it below the window but it does not seem to provide as much balance once you step on the wing.
 
handle

I located mine about centered on, and above the window.

This area is honeycomb, as is most of the areas that you would want to put the handle.

What I did was create a hard point at each of the holes. This was accomplished by drilling a hole through the outer skin first. I then took a piece of music wire, bent a 90 angle about 1/2" from one end, and chucked it in a drill. You then insert the angled end into the hole and run the drill. The wire will effectively remove the honeycomb, which you can then vacuum out. I actually did it twice to remove an area of about 1 1/2" in diameter.

Next, I mixed up epoxy/flox/cabo, and using a 35 cc syringe that I got at the farm store, injected the mixture in the newly created void. The initial hole was only drilled through the outer skin, so there was no dripping inside the cabin.

Once cured, I used the hole in the outer skin as a guide and drilled the through holes using a drill guide to make the holes perpendicular to the cabin surface.

The handles were installed with SS fender washers both inside and out.

I use the handles all the time, and they are solid.

One thing to remember, though...most cabinet handles are plated zinc, and you will only get about 1/4" thread in them; they can be broken with a side load. I used machined stainless handles to prevent this potential issue...
 
I located mine about centered on, and above the window.

This area is honeycomb, as is most of the areas that you would want to put the handle.

What I did was create a hard point at each of the holes. This was accomplished by drilling a hole through the outer skin first. I then took a piece of music wire, bent a 90 angle about 1/2" from one end, and chucked it in a drill. You then insert the angled end into the hole and run the drill. The wire will effectively remove the honeycomb, which you can then vacuum out. I actually did it twice to remove an area of about 1 1/2" in diameter.

Next, I mixed up epoxy/flox/cabo, and using a 35 cc syringe that I got at the farm store, injected the mixture in the newly created void. The initial hole was only drilled through the outer skin, so there was no dripping inside the cabin.

Once cured, I used the hole in the outer skin as a guide and drilled the through holes using a drill guide to make the holes perpendicular to the cabin surface.

The handles were installed with SS fender washers both inside and out.

I use the handles all the time, and they are solid.

One thing to remember, though...most cabinet handles are plated zinc, and you will only get about 1/4" thread in them; they can be broken with a side load. I used machined stainless handles to prevent this potential issue...

Now I know why I ask this forum for opinion! Thank you. Sounds just right. Can you post a closeup pic?

My handles are thick and have good screw penetration. Searched for a long time to find them. Not cheap. Not plated.
 
Follow Bob’s advice. I did and the handle installation went perfect. I only did two things a bit different. I added steel spacers through the cabin top for additional support. Second, I installed a strap on the inside with countersunk screws versus washers. I can’t say the strap is any improvement. But the handles are extremely secure. You can see my photos starting at the below link. There are three sequential posts.

http://www.mykitlog.com/users/displ...&project=2788&category=13394&log=289633&row=6
 
Follow Bob’s advice. I did and the handle installation went perfect. I only did two things a bit different. I added steel spacers through the cabin top for additional support. Second, I installed a strap on the inside with countersunk screws versus washers. I can’t say the strap is any improvement. But the handles are extremely secure. You can see my photos starting at the below link. There are three sequential posts.

http://www.mykitlog.com/users/displ...&project=2788&category=13394&log=289633&row=6

Thank you for the confirmation and additional info.
 
Bob has the right approach.

I recommend adding perhaps a 1/8” of glass on the inside of the cabin, extending perhaps 6” around this hard point. I did this for the front seat shoulder straps as well. I considered the per plans countersunk anchor screw to be inadequate for the task.

Carl
 
Scott at Falcon Field (FFC) has done it on his 10. I liked it, much easier for pass when there is a handhold.
 
RV 10 Handles

I mounted mine on the longeron just behind the door frame and it has worked very well
 
I did this for the front seat shoulder straps as well. I considered the per plans countersunk anchor screw to be inadequate for the task.
Carl

Did you do some tests or calculations to back up this idea? I would be shocked and disappointed if Vans engineering had not already done so.
 
RV 10 Handles

I mounted mine on the longeron just behind the door frame and it has worked very well

Vern - Are you referring to the longeron right below the rear window? You wouldn't happen to have a photo, would you?

Thanks
 
My choice

Here is a picture of our RV10 with a handle mounted below back window mounted on the longeron.

AB10DA25-CEB6-4DCC-AC68-59042252F62B.jpeg
 
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