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  #1  
Old 05-15-2021, 04:57 PM
wirejock's Avatar
wirejock wirejock is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Estes Park, CO
Posts: 4,671
Default Slider assist

I think my slider fits too good. It takes quite a bit of pulling and cussing to get it started sliding away from fully closed. There's very little leverage yanking on the top handle. I have to lift on the edge of the skirt. That's not a good long term solution. Ive seen one or two with a little clip near the aft end to lift. I need something to lift and pull aft. A car door handle shape is ideal.
I am thinking about adding a piece of angle aluminum as a lifting tab in the area circled in red. I can back drill through the C791 Canopy Skirt Brace and rivet the handle to it, using three or four holes, so it has some structure. One each side, powder coated to match.
I don't want to drill the top bow. There's no holes in my canopy. Well there's one for the latch.
Does anyone have better ideas?
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Larry Larson
Estes Park, CO
wirejock at yahoo dot com
Donated 01/01/2021, plus a little extra.
RV-7A #73391, N511RV reserved (2,000+ hours)
Empennage, wings, fuse, finishing kit, now FWF
Disclaimer
I cannot be, nor will I be, held responsible if you try to do the same things I do and it does not work and/or causes you loss, injury, or even death in the process.
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  #2  
Old 05-15-2021, 05:16 PM
alpinelakespilot2000 alpinelakespilot2000 is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 3,721
Default

What you are describing is very common. Handles on side canopy skirts particularly. .

Slider will slide easier over time.

Until it does, and if on the inside, just push up on the fore-afte canopy bow while pulling back from handle.

Again, everything will loosen over time.
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Steve M.
Ellensburg WA
RV-9 Flying, 0-320, Catto

Donation reminder: Jan. 2022
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  #3  
Old 05-15-2021, 05:16 PM
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koupster koupster is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: SLC, UT (KBTF)
Posts: 304
Default Lifting tabs

Larry,

My RV-6A has a lifting tab on each side. They appear to be flat stock bent to 90 degrees rather than manufactured angle. They protrude about 3/4 inch and are long enough to put four fingers on them from underneath. When I lift up by the tab, only that side comes up, but then I'm able to get some fingers under the trailing edge of the canopy further up and get that rear slider moving up the track. Best position for the tabs would probably be back abeam that rear slider block. It opens fine from the inside after being locked. I usually just shut it snug from the outside rather than pulling it all the way closed with the lock when parking it.
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  #4  
Old 05-15-2021, 05:16 PM
622BH 622BH is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Albany, OR
Posts: 203
Default On my 9A

The plans for my 9A had an angle with a "finger" hole in it for lifting to open the slider. I also found a hook tool that I used for about the first six months to "grab onto the finger hole" and lift up and back.
After about six months the canopy loosened up a bit and is now easier to open by hand on the angle unit.
My plans had the angle riveted to the slider frame in the are you have circled in red.
IF I were to do it again, I would use about 1- inch angle for the finger hole and trim the canopy side down to about to inches. A bigger finger hole than inch would allow for a larger finger to get a good purchase on the frame for opening.
Here in Oregon I've seen one RV with a hole (not measured) that looked to be about 1.5 inches round - really nice grasp there...

Oh, I just remembered: I've seen a 7 with a drawer pull handle in the middle of the canopy fairing that made it really convenient to pull up and get it moving.

Last edited by 622BH : 05-15-2021 at 05:19 PM. Reason: Additional information
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  #5  
Old 05-15-2021, 05:25 PM
Dan Langhout's Avatar
Dan Langhout Dan Langhout is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Huntsville, AL USA
Posts: 599
Default Drawer Handle

Been working great for 7 years / 700 hours. Doesn't twist the canopy when you pull on it. Liberty "Tapered Bow Pull - Brushed Satin Nickel" 64mm, Part# P0270B-SN-C.

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2021 =VAF= Dues PAID . . . . .
RV-7 N528DP slow build
First Flight July 26th, 2014
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Now based at Moontown (3M5)

Last edited by Dan Langhout : 05-15-2021 at 05:32 PM.
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  #6  
Old 05-15-2021, 06:14 PM
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pilotkms pilotkms is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: WARNER ROBINS, GA
Posts: 515
Default

Make em like u want em. Sides are just angle. Top, middle is 2 angles riveted together, with large finger hole. Smoothed for aerodynamics. EZ for any builder.
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RV 7A RV #9700 May 2017
N325KS the Flying K
Built in SoCal KCCB, now in GA @ KPXE
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  #7  
Old 05-15-2021, 06:38 PM
622BH 622BH is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Albany, OR
Posts: 203
Default A models vs Non-A models

I thought about trying the handle style Dan & Keith are showing, and I saw on a 7. What I found on my 9A was at 5 foot 10 inches, I was not tall enough to reach to the middle of the canopy to effectively leverage such a handle. So I went with the angled tab on the sides.
You could try taping a handle where you think you want it and see how it works as far as reaching it and guesstimating whether you will have enough leverage to pull the canopy up and rearward.
If you enjoy fiberglass (or aren't afraid of doing some repair work) you could mount one "permanently" and giving it a few weeks / months trial and then decide whether you want to keep it or get rid of it...
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  #8  
Old 05-15-2021, 07:11 PM
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wirejock wirejock is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Estes Park, CO
Posts: 4,671
Default Drawer pull

Quote:
Originally Posted by 622BH View Post
The plans for my 9A had an angle with a "finger" hole in it for lifting to open the slider. I also found a hook tool that I used for about the first six months to "grab onto the finger hole" and lift up and back.
After about six months the canopy loosened up a bit and is now easier to open by hand on the angle unit.
My plans had the angle riveted to the slider frame in the are you have circled in red.
IF I were to do it again, I would use about 1- inch angle for the finger hole and trim the canopy side down to about to inches. A bigger finger hole than inch would allow for a larger finger to get a good purchase on the frame for opening.
Here in Oregon I've seen one RV with a hole (not measured) that looked to be about 1.5 inches round - really nice grasp there...

Oh, I just remembered: I've seen a 7 with a drawer pull handle in the middle of the canopy fairing that made it really convenient to pull up and get it moving.
A pull on top wouldn't do me any good. I'm pretty strong, but only 5'6". No leverage.
I've seen a few drawer "finger" pull handles I like. Time for some Experimental Ingenuity!
Now that I know it's not unusual, I will do some thinkin'.
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Larry Larson
Estes Park, CO
wirejock at yahoo dot com
Donated 01/01/2021, plus a little extra.
RV-7A #73391, N511RV reserved (2,000+ hours)
Empennage, wings, fuse, finishing kit, now FWF
Disclaimer
I cannot be, nor will I be, held responsible if you try to do the same things I do and it does not work and/or causes you loss, injury, or even death in the process.
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  #9  
Old 05-15-2021, 07:23 PM
Kyle Boatright Kyle Boatright is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 4,634
Default

I have a piece of angle riveted to the skirt on the pilot's side. It is more for pulling the slider aft than lifting it.

One thing I found with my slider was the wheels were hard against either the inner or outer (don't remember) edge of the track and didn't roll very well. Somehow I managed to tweak that (I tweaked the wheels, or added a washer as a spacer, or something - don't remember), and it made an immediate improvement.
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Marietta, GA
2001 RV-6 N46KB
2019(?) RV-10
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  #10  
Old 05-15-2021, 07:47 PM
wirejock's Avatar
wirejock wirejock is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Estes Park, CO
Posts: 4,671
Default Cup pulls

I found what I need. Drawer Cup Pulls. Kinda aerodynamic too.
Gazzilions of them on Amazon.
I just need to measure hole distance and hope there is a match.
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Larry Larson
Estes Park, CO
wirejock at yahoo dot com
Donated 01/01/2021, plus a little extra.
RV-7A #73391, N511RV reserved (2,000+ hours)
Empennage, wings, fuse, finishing kit, now FWF
Disclaimer
I cannot be, nor will I be, held responsible if you try to do the same things I do and it does not work and/or causes you loss, injury, or even death in the process.
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