Rudder stops

Maxrate · #1 11-16-2009, 07:00 PM

It's going to be a while before the wings arrive from Vans so I am trying to finish up as much on the tail as possible. After looking over several builder sites it looks like there are two different types of rudder stops. One uses a Delrin material http://www.jeffsrv-7a.com/FUSELAGE/04-07-22.htm as this builder has, and the other looks like the standard external stops that Vans has you fabricate. http://websites.expercraft.com/morri...y&log_id=17910 as this builder used. Both look like they work ok but the trim necessary on the bottom rudder canoe is drastically different. Im building the tail dragger version so I know clearance between the tail wheel spring and rudder fairing is going to be an tight already. Anyone that can weigh in especially with pics would be great!

Bavafa · #2 11-16-2009, 07:25 PM

It has been a great deal of discussion about the rudder stop on this site so a quick search will yield plenty of info.. The internal rudder stop which one of the member here makes them and sell them very reasonably priced, look very attractive. But a few (I believe including Vans) recommend against it as they think it will put too much force (in an angle that it was not designed for) on the hinge and the rivets that hold the hinge.

The one that Vans has you fabricate works really well but it is not nearly as attractive looking. If you end up fabricating them? don't go too crazy with the angles that is given till you have mounted the rudder can test a good fit. Even then after you rivet them in place, the fit will come out of adjustment and you may have to shave a bit more for best fit.

Mehrdad
RV7A - IO360M1B

jsharkey · #3 11-16-2009, 08:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bavafa

It has been a great deal of discussion about the rudder stop on this site so a quick search will yield plenty of info.. The internal rudder stop which one of the member here makes them and sell them very reasonably priced, look very attractive. But a few (I believe including Vans) recommend against it as they think it will put too much force (in an angle that it was not designed for) on the hinge and the rivets that hold the hinge.

The one that Vans has you fabricate works really well but it is not nearly as attractive looking. If you end up fabricating them? don't go too crazy with the angles that is given till you have mounted the rudder can test a good fit. Even then after you rivet them in place, the fit will come out of adjustment and you may have to shave a bit more for best fit.

Mehrdad
RV7A - IO360M1B

Aligning the stop with the flange of the rudder horn will make the cable rub on the opposite side. I had to move mine

Jim Sharkey
RV6 - Phase 1

LifeofReiley · #4 11-16-2009, 08:21 PM

I use the internal rudder stop and it is smoking hot!!! Everything else is BS IMHO. Not an issue at all.

craigvince · #5 11-16-2009, 09:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Maxrate

After looking over several builder sites it looks like there are two different types of rudder stops. One uses a Delrin material http://www.jeffsrv-7a.com/FUSELAGE/04-07-22.htm as this builder has.

Jeff hasn't made these for several years now. Myself and another member of our EAA chapter have picked up the "project". We've made over 200 of them now and never had a builder unhappy with them, to the best of our knowledge anyway. We're not the designer of this part, but we liked the piece for ourselves, and decided to share our ability to make them with the rest of the builder community.

Here's the latest thread for them: http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...ad.php?t=54682. There are a couple of pictures and a cad drawing of one of the original stops in case you want to make your own, although we've made ours much thicker and stronger than the originals, for whatever that's worth.

LifeofReiley · #6 11-16-2009, 09:20 PM

Craig has a great deal. Rene' and I got together on this years ago, I did make my own. This design works better than Jeff's design and was a modified version of Jeff's design. BTW I have had both designs... You will be happy... order one from Craig.

Maxrate · #7 11-17-2009, 10:19 PM

Craig,

I like your idea of positioning the stop above the hinge instead of below. It looks like your picture shows the rudder fairing cut approx like VANs says to. Have you heard of anything negative on the stops having hinge stress issues like Mehrdad mentioned. Also, do you have anymore to sell. I would love to purchase one.

Thank's

craigvince · #8 11-18-2009, 12:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Maxrate

Have you heard of anything negative on the stops having hinge stress issues like Mehrdad mentioned.

There have been a couple builders (engineers, I suppose) who have determined that there would be stress issues, but I've never heard of any actual problems or data to support their findings. Also, we've almost doubled the thickness on our version compared to the original rudder stops designed by Jeff and Rene'. To the best of my knowledge, none of those thinner rudder stops ever failed either, and that was several years ago.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Maxrate

Also, do you have anymore to sell. I would love to purchase one.

Yes, I have a few left from this batch, and we just ordered some more material to start the next batch.

Maxrate · #9 11-18-2009, 08:29 AM

Thanks Craig,

My order's on the way!

Flying Scotsman · #10 01-01-2010, 07:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Maxrate

Craig,

I like your idea of positioning the stop above the hinge instead of below. It looks like your picture shows the rudder fairing cut approx like VANs says to. Have you heard of anything negative on the stops having hinge stress issues like Mehrdad mentioned. Also, do you have anymore to sell. I would love to purchase one.

Thank's

Installed the internal rudder stop on the top of the bottom hinge, as noted above. Found that, for some reason, the rudder spar was only contacting the stop on the inner corners. Some careful sanding down got full-face contact. But...by my measurements, I'm getting only the minimum 30 degrees of rudder travel (I may leave it thus until flying, rather than continue monkeying with the stop for now). Note that all rod ends are in line, at the spec'd distances, and clearances on the skins (VS-to-rudder) are close but good.

I'm not sure what happened here to cause this, and it's not a huge issue to fix, but I hate not knowing what caused the "issue"...any ideas? (and thought I'd post this for others using the stop to look for...).