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  #21  
Old 11-03-2020, 08:19 PM
wcalvert's Avatar
wcalvert wcalvert is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Anacortes Wa
Posts: 444
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Steve, lookin' nice.

I tried to post a few pics but they all came out upside down on the forum page?!

Wrap on!
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  #22  
Old 11-04-2020, 10:21 AM
agent4573 agent4573 is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Mountain view
Posts: 490
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by wcalvert View Post
Steve, lookin' nice.

I tried to post a few pics but they all came out upside down on the forum page?!

Wrap on!
Taken on an iphone? There's a known thing with iphones where if you take the picture with the physical volume buttons on the top side, thats technically taking the photo "upside down". On all Apple devices the EXIF data gets read and the photo is orientated correctly. On any system that doesn't read EXIF data, the picture is displayed in its original orientation, which changes based on how you hold your phone. For upright pictures, hold your phone with the physical buttons on the bottom, or use software to rotate your library so everything is "up" without having to look at EXIF data.
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  #23  
Old 10-15-2021, 06:23 AM
TraderDoc52 TraderDoc52 is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: Fredericksburg,TX
Posts: 5
Default RV-6 Wrap

Flash this is Rhino at T82. Just had my newly completed RV6 wrapped by TNJ engraving in Kerrville. They have done detail work on other planes but I think mine was their first total plane wrap. Job was around 6K. Took about two weeks in my hangar. But their work schedule is sketchy and interrupted. Should take about 4 days 2 people. If you want to check it out contact me by text or leave message. 830-456-3781
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  #24  
Old 10-15-2021, 02:33 PM
pjoshyjosh pjoshyjosh is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Camas, Wa
Posts: 103
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wcalvert View Post
Just completing the wrap on my -7 this week.

Following are some thoughts and observations that may help someone get started or make the plunge... no vinyl wars intended, just the facts. You choose for yourself.

I've used about 125' of Avery Dennison Supreme to do the base colors, and it'll take another 25 or so to do the accents. The overall time spent was about 40 hours (so far) and I'll say it's about 95% right. There are a few spots (elevator horns and the like) where the film is not laying as well as it could, so those will be redone in time. Gonna let it age to see how it does in the field.

I chose Avery, but there are films by 3M, Vivvid and others. The Avery is a 3.2mil film, 3M is 3.5. Colors are available in gloss, mat, color changing, carbon fiber etc. Lots to choose from. I plan to use on 3M film as an accent since Avery doesn't have the right shade in their lineup.

I used Fellers as my supplier, there is a local outlet in Seattle or they ship for free over $100. Fast, usually two day shipping. There are others and most ship free over a $ amount. Fellers has treated me well so far.

Every technique I used was taken from the Internet. CW Wraps and the The Wrap Institute are two good YouTube references. The manufacturer has their own instruction sheets online, and combined with the videos provide a lot of technique examples to copy if you watch closely. A warm, clean work area is a must. Cold vinyl isn't friendly and dust under your wrap looks like rocks under a carpet. Keep it clean!

Planning ahead for sequence of application and seam orientation is a must!

All of the vinyl seams are aligned with a panel seam and overlapped so the lap edge is either down or aft, then seam sealed with 3M 3950 edge sealer. The overlap is not required (there are methods that produce almost no overlap) and it does detract from the "seamless" look, but I prefer the solid bond between layers that it creates (vinyl stick to vinyl very well). The seam sealing likewise may not be required, but it was recommended as a bulletproof insurance policy by a local wrapper, and is used on all of his boat wraps. You can barely see the sealer line as I used a 3/16" wide brush to minimize the excess and took my time doing the applying (don't use the applicator in the can! ... huge)

All cuts in the finish vinyl were done with 3m Finish line knifeless tape. This stuff is expensive, as is the sealer, but the quality is excellent and the tape keeps the knife off the aluminum skin. There are many videos out there about how to use this product, and it really works well.

All aluminum surfaces were cleaned of any adhesive or oils with lacquer thinner, then two cleanings with 70% IPA (isopropyl alcohol) in a spray bottle, wiping with micro fiber towels. I chose not to use any primer on the aluminum, and after some discussion with others, have decided to do an inspection in the future by pulling a small section to see how it is holding up. Adhesion is not an issue on clean shiny aluminum. I did a test to see if scuffing with Scotchbrite would improve performance, but it appears to stick less well.

When applying the film, it's important to "lock in down" with firm pressure from you squeegee as you go. Light pressure will likely allow bubbles to stay behind and cause headaches later. You'll learn to keep the correct tension on the free film and work the edges of the unlocked film along as you go along. Speed is not important. Also pay attention to "adhesive printing" where the vinyl is pulled hard over an edge, causing the adhesive to roll up, and then laid down again. This will print through the finish.

I have applied the vinyl to fiberglass that was primed and prepped for paint. The vinyl adheres just fine with no issues. Be sure you primer is sanded smooth as defects will print through.

All seams and field areas in the wrap were post heated. The seams and any areas where there was much stretching were heated to the full 90 degrees +C (90 - 105 is recommended by Avery) and the fields were heated to a lower temperature to check for entrapped air bubbles. This process is vital. Where the film has not been post heated, it retains its memory and will try to return to its original flat shape. Once the film is heated to over 90 degress, it looses all memory and stays in place. The heating also activates the adhesive.

During application, any folds or wrinkles in the film can be removed with a quick shot of heat. Also, before stretching, adding heat will relax the film and it will stretch easier. Most wraps recommend not stretching more than 10% to prevent gloss or color changes.

When heating be careful of any rivet or gap that may have a bubble. It is critical that all wrap be adhered well before post heating, as the bubble with "burn" because it doesn't have the heat sink of the aluminum to temper the hot air.

Tools are pretty simple. A good heat gun (mine is a Dewalt that goes to 1100 degrees F), hard and medium squeegees, a couple more with felt edges, extra felt edges, a good break blade knife, microfiber towels, spray bottle, small brushes, IR thermometer, work apron and a Snitter (slitting hook knife). I also used a soft rubber roller (RollerPro Heat Resistant Vinyl Application Tool, $50) and a rivet brush, both to smooth rivets. Build yourself a vinyl cutting station that allows the film to be rolled out and cut to length.

All of the work I did on the fuse was done on the rotisserie. Doing this job on a flying aircraft would be a whole 'nuther challenge. With the roto, gravity can help hold the vinyl and I could work at the best body angle possible. Just be prepared to need more help when you're doing the bottom of anything. I have a new found respect for the "skinny kids" doing these wraps online, it's hard work no matter how you do it!

A second set of hands will occasionally be helpful. I did the top of the wings solo, and the sheet was 60" x 10'. It can be done but would have gone faster with help..

As far as advice goes, be prepared for some frustration and a steep learning curve. Now that the project is almost done, I've found a few places where I could do better. That's what I expected.

Overall I'm very happy with the result. Cost will be around $1300 all in, no spray booth, minimal solvent exposure, and done in a week. Just what I was looking for!
\



Great write up. I also just did my 9A a few months ago. QUite happy. A few 'mistakes' that can be fixed easily. The vinyl is very forgiving. Get more then just one helper when doing large surfaces/etc. When doing wings/horizontal surfaces - don't work from one end to the other. Start on the long center line and go back first (from middle of wing to back of wing) and then do middle to leading edge. This helps reduce any pulling affect.

I used 3M 2080 from metrorestyling.com or rvinyl.com as well as knifeless tape and made in Oregon RapidTac cleaning solution. I put a writeup on the facebook site for Vans Aircrarft builders with pictures/etc..
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  #25  
Old 10-15-2021, 03:03 PM
David Paule David Paule is offline
 
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Location: Boulder, CO
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Might as well post it here because a lot of us don't use Facebook. Me, for example.

Dave
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  #26  
Old 10-15-2021, 03:14 PM
pjoshyjosh pjoshyjosh is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Camas, Wa
Posts: 103
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David Paule View Post
Might as well post it here because a lot of us don't use Facebook. Me, for example.

Dave
if I could figure out the pictures easily?? Facebook I'm able to do from phone.

And - i do this site mostly from work computer (Can't do image uploads)
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N72NJ - RV9A Purchased 10/2017
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  #27  
Old 10-15-2021, 05:47 PM
David Paule David Paule is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 5,264
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Let me know when you're going to post the notes and email the photos to me and I'll do it for you. Click on my name above and select email, send me an email and I'll send you the email address to send them to (you can't through the click-on link).

There are two ways. One way is to post them to a third-party site like imgur.com, click on the photo there and select "copy image location." Then in your email, click on the yellow landscape box above the text window and paste it into that. Do this for each photo, one by one.

The other way is to click on the paperclip above the text window, select "browse" and then "upload" in the pop-up window that appears, place the cursor where you want the photo in the text window, click on the paperclip again, and your photo will be placed where you wanted it. (I inserted the photo below while trying to remember how to do this one. usually I do the other).

In both cases you won't see the photo until you press "preview post" below the text window adjacent to the "submit" button. But while the text window is open you can cut and paste it to another location in the post if you want.

Dave
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  #28  
Old 10-15-2021, 06:55 PM
Zazoos Zazoos is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Gladewater
Posts: 152
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TraderDoc52 View Post
Flash this is Rhino at T82. Just had my newly completed RV6 wrapped by TNJ engraving in Kerrville. They have done detail work on other planes but I think mine was their first total plane wrap. Job was around 6K. Took about two weeks in my hangar. But their work schedule is sketchy and interrupted. Should take about 4 days 2 people. If you want to check it out contact me by text or leave message. 830-456-3781
Did you remove the control surfaces for wrapping?
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  #29  
Old 10-17-2021, 11:44 AM
TraderDoc52 TraderDoc52 is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: Fredericksburg,TX
Posts: 5
Default Vinyl wrap control surfaces

Took all control surfaces off to wrap. Much easier . Used one piece of wrap for each. Overlapped seam on posterior edge. Started about 1/2 inch from posterior edge on bottom surface .came around posterior edge then around leading edge and trimmed at posterior edge even with it. Small 1/2 inch border layer. on the bottom posterior edge under the top layer provides good adhesion and all seams are downwind and shouldn’t be lifted up by airstream.
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  #30  
Old 12-07-2021, 03:09 PM
TraderDoc52 TraderDoc52 is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: Fredericksburg,TX
Posts: 5
Talking Wrapping an RV

I finished wrapping my RV6 in Sept and passed my DAR inspection. Started my test program with about 10 hours completed and have been up to 190 mph straight and level 180 horse Lycoming carbureted fixed pitch with no wheel paints. Wrap is slick as snake snot and lighter than paint. It is certainly cheaper than paint and can be completed in several days. ( A buddy is still waiting on his 6 from the paint shop after 9 months). You can do it yourself but would advise watching a car wrap in person or viewing the how to videos. It’s not rocket science, heavens you’re building an airplane which is much more complex than doing a wrap job. You save even more money on a wrap if your paint scheme is complex. The wrap vinyl is printed out by a computer design on a digital printer up to 5 feet wide. The colors and designs are endless. The vinyl adheres very well and I have had no issues with delamination. It seems to smooth out the transition step off of metal seams, ergo more speed. Oil wipes right off and avgas doesn’t affect it either. The only challenge so far is multiple compound curves can be wrapped but excessive stretching can sometimes distort shapes or colors . Solid colors no problem. If I had not hired a wrap company to help me do mine I would have saved 50-60%. The product mark up and labor cost me $4k out of a $6.5 K job but I was a newbie to it. I would not hesitate to do it by myself again and buy the vinyl off the internet.( It helps to have one or two assistants hold large pieces in place while you squeegee.) Hangared I expect it to last 7-10 years and if I need to I can strip it off with a detach or chemical and put on a new design. The air show birds do it all the time. Hope that helps.
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